Thalia Warren

Thalia Warren, marketing manager and all round Girl Friday at Equa fashion managed to take some time in her hectic schedule (between photo shoots and online prize giveaways) to talk to me about her passion and the importance these days for the development of ethically produced and sustainable fashion.

What led you to the arena of ethical and sustainable fashion?

I began my career in Fashion working for a very glamorous company but always had a niggling feeling that I should concentrate on something more worthy. Working in ethical fashion allows me to go some way to balancing this. I can embrace much of what I love about fashion whilst contributing to a movement that is trying to change the things that really bothered me. I’m never going to stop being a consumer; I love pretty things too much! But the more I learn about the dirty side of the industry the more evangelical I have become about believing things must be done differently and better.

Tell me what led you to Equa?

I was drawn to Equa because most of the ethical labels I found interesting were stocked there. It was the first boutique in London to stock clothing that was ethically produced but didn’t fit into the stereotype of what ethical fashion should look like. There is no reason why ethical clothing should not be stylish and fashion forward. The design process is no different in terms of cut etc. Admittedly sourcing beautiful fabrics that are ethically produced is harder, but this is improving as the movement grows. In fact it’s a really exciting time to be involved in ethical fashion because as more people catch on, the level of design is getting better and better.

Where do you think sustainable fashion will develop in the future?

The Equa window features an organic silk dress by Amana this month

I hope it will become more mainstream. It is important for high street retailers especially, to become more ethical in both their sourcing and production in order for large-scale improvements in the industry. They need to provide assurances to their suppliers that where improvements are taking place they will not take their business elsewhere in search of larger profit margins.  In the end it all comes down to money. If big businesses feel that negative press will damage their image, and in turn their profits, then they will make changes. It may not be done for the right reasons but if it significantly improves the lives of workers in the supply chain then it can only be a good thing.

Do you think that this movement is something that can compete on a saturated global stage where companies large and small are outsourcing abroad to countries such as India, China and Turkey to name a few?

The culture of throwaway fashion that we’ve seen in recent years has been really damaging both environmentally and for human rights in the supply chain. Ethical companies cannot compete with this model of fast fashion. If a million catwalk copies are to make it onto the shop floor in two weeks at a really low price it doesn’t take a genius to work out that extreme pressure must have been put on someone, somewhere to make that happen.

One positive thing I have seen come out of the recession in the UK is a shift towards reassessing the meaning of good value. I think the wastefulness of fast fashion will not be seen as so cool anymore. There is a shift towards more of a make-do-and-mend culture, which is tinted with the nostalgia of our grandparent’s years. People are looking for better quality products that will last them longer. A customer at Equa told me a brilliant saying her Grandmother lived by: “I’m too poor to buy cheap shoes”.

You can shop at Equa on the internet here or if you’re in London head to their store:

10 Tips For An Ethical Wardrobe

Try Swishing

This doesn’t involve throwing any car keys into fruit bowls!

Swishing is a fun way to get rid of those fashion mistakes that you know will look great on someone else but somehow never worked for you. And you get to swap them for something new without spending a penny. At the last event I attended I came away with a pair of high waisted skinny jeans and a pair of Doc Martens! In some cities there are organized clothes swapping events, but its great fun to get some friends together and hold your own. Best accompanied by cocktails and cupcakes (organic of course)!

Think Organic

Approximately 25% of the worlds pesticides are used on cotton, some are so toxic they are banned in the EU but this doesn’t mean that they are not used in the countries where cotton is grown. This has a devastating effect on the environment and on the health of cotton farmers and their families. Moreover when you consider that approximately 1 cup full of pesticides are used to produce one cotton t-shirt, do you really want to expose yourself to this?

Debbie Little recycled parachute dress

Thankfully lots of designers now produce beautiful, affordable clothes from organic cotton. Check out the cute retro style dresses from Annie Greenabelle (available at Equa). Or try EJF’s collaborations with designers such as Christian Lacroix and Luella Bartley.

Reclaimed or Recycled Fabrics

There are many clever designers who create something new and extremely wearable from other people’s waste. For example Debbie Little makes spectacular prom style dresses (very Carrie Bradshaw) from recycled parachutes. Also not to be missed are Terra Plana‘s shoes utilizing reclaimed quilts.

Repair & Customise

Give existing items in your wardrobe a new lease of life. How many lovely pieces do you have that became redundant simply because you lost a button? This is another enjoyable thing to do with friends. Make an evening of it and help each other with suggestions for customizing. It helps to be handy with a needle and thread but something as simple as using a belt to cinch in the waist of an oversized shirt can help you update an outfit.

Eco Fabrics

Bast Fibres extracted from the stems of Bamboo, Hemp, Flax and Jute are used to produce eco-friendly alternatives to conventional fabrics. They are naturally resistant to pests and weeds; so don’t require nasty chemicals to grow them. Bamboo is slinky and super soft. It grows much faster than cotton and can be harvested twice a year. It has natural antibacterial properties making it ideal for lingerie. Burlesque divas should have a look at Enamore’s leopard print cami and knicker set made from bamboo.

Enamore's leopard cami set

Most man-made fabrics are unsustainable, made using petroleum and do not biodegrade. However Tencel, Modal and Lenpur are all man made fibres made from different types of sustainable wood pulp. Tencel is made from eucalyptus tree pulp. The pulp is dissolved in an eco-friendly solvent in a process, which uses minimal water and energy with the solvent itself being recycled throughout the process.Modal is 100% biodegradable and makes a fantastic eco alternative to viscose. It’s made from beech trees and needs few fertilizers or pesticides. Lenpur is made from wood pulp obtained from the branches of specially cultivated trees. Harvesting coincides with normal pruning so is not based on a cycle of unnatural deforestation.

Quality over Quantity

I always calculate the £ per wear before I purchase new items of clothing. Often spending a little more is much better value for money. If you buy something that is well made and because you really, really love it, you will wear it for years to come.

Support Local Designers/Makers

I have found some great accessories made by up-and-coming designers in my local area. I like buying pieces that I know will not be found on every high street in the country. Also in the case of designers who sell at local markets or have their own shops, I have been able to meet them and talk about the making process and their inspirations. Much more interesting and whatever you buy haven’t travelled halfway across the world before you bought it.

Vintage/ Second Hand

Vintage clothes are about as environmentally friendly as it’s possible to get. I’ve always been a big vintage fan. I love the idea that clothes have their own story prior to my ownership. I have a dress bought off an old lady who wore it to her school prom in the 1950′s!

Ask Questions

Ethical style from Jackpot

Ok, so you’ve seen a pair of shoes that you absolutely have to have but you suspect that their origins may not be squeaky clean. If you do cave in (it happens to the best of us!) then send a letter to the label/shop from whom you purchased it asking about who made it and the conditions they work in etc. Attach a copy of your receipt. This shows that you are not some crazy activist but someone who genuinely likes and buys their products. You have a lot of power as a consumer, if companies believe you care about their ethical policy they will be more likely to develop it and publish it. Also look for accreditation from recognized organizations:

The Fair Trade Foundation logo shows that the people who picked the cotton in a garment were not exploited. Labels such as Kuyichi, Edun and Jackpot are all members of the organization Made-By.

Made-By helps companies to trace back through their supply chain and make it as transparent as possible. They highlight what companies are doing right and where improvements must be made. Each year they publish a scorecard for member companies and set them targets for the following year. These score cards are visible to the public on their website which is also a really good source of information for anyone wanting to know more about ethical fashion.

Umm…Have Fun!

Fashion shouldn’t be too serious, so have fun it!