Afternoon Tea served at the Black Swan

You know that completely unintentional ‘ahh’ noise that escapes your lips when you take the first sip of tea after a long day; or sink, exhausted, into a freshly made bed? That’s exactly what a weekend spent at The Black Swan in Helmsley, Yorkshire, is like.

My friend and I had struggled to make our way there though. Our trip coincided with the great blizzard of 2010 and we arrived more than slightly flustered after navigating Yorkshire’s back roads and an unexpected cliff (otherwise known as the Sutton Bank and a bit of a challenge for my questionable road skills). The Black Swan is obviously used to frazzled commuters, however. We felt calm and welcomed as soon as we stepped through the door.

The interior decor is very much what you’d expect from a country hotel that dates back to the 15^th Century; warm and cosy with low ceilings and heavy furnishings. My twin room was perfectly acceptable, with two enormous single beds placed together in the centre and a spotless en-suite bathroom. There were a few small blemishes; scuff marks on the wall, a broken handle that prevented the window from shutting properly and a shower that was too small even for my 5’6” self, although to be fair the height of the ceiling prevented it from being much higher. But these little faults were insignificant and, as it happened, my friend and I didn’t spend that much time in the room. The rest of the hotel was so comfortable, and felt so immediately like ‘home’, that we were happier lounging by the fire downstairs.

The staff are, of course, absolutely integral to this homely feeling. They were extremely attentive and I received exceptional service from everyone. One of the barmen, Tomasz (whose name I am praying I have spelt right) deserves a special mention, even just for making us want to sit at the bar for hours on end and run up a hefty bar tab. He managed to pull off that classy but distinctly dangerous move of guessing drinks orders, and one night made us two of the most gorgeous cocktails I’ve ever tasted. The first consisted of chilli vodka and vanilla, which sounds undrinkable but was simply amazing, and the second was mainly champagne and whiskey. They were concoctions I would never have thought of ordering, but when bottomless glasses are invented I recommend you fill yours with one of his mixes.

The restaurant staff are also fantastic, and not just at dinnertime. At breakfast I was even presented with freshly cooked croissants after I expressed my disappointment that the basket on the buffet was empty. And this even though it was past 10 o’clock and breakfast had finished (and I’d already worked my way through fruit, toast and a delicious full Yorkshire breakfast). The food is definitely the defining feature of The Black Swan. They’ve clearly put effort into the decor in the restaurant and the menu is outstanding. My meal on the second night (king scallops with celeriac puree and flavours of apple, vanilla, raisin and capers to start; mains of slow-braised lamb shoulder with date, pomme fondant, spinach, wild mushroom and a rosemary jus; a banana tart – and half of my friend’s – for dessert) was just divine, and their award-winning tearooms are fantastic. Don’t bother staying here if you’re on a diet, as there’s no way you’ll get through the weekend still on it. The food was a little heavy on the butter for my personal taste and there didn’t appear to be a vegetarian option on the menu, which would be a clear problem for some; but for a weekend of indulgence it was perfect.

The bad weather meant we didn’t move far away from the hotel throughout the weekend, but we didn’t feel a need to. The village of Helmsley is lovely and we spent a very enjoyable few hours meandering from coffee shop, to jewellery shop, to tearoom – and around again – but York is only a half-hour drive away, so if you want more, it’s there for you.

I guess the best sign is that I’d definitely stay there again, and I’d recommend succumbing to that ‘ahh’ feeling to anyone. Plus, Tomasz said something about some delicious summer cocktails coming soon. Now, where did I leave my glass…

The Black Swan Hotel in Hemsley

Room packages including dinner and breakfast at The Black Swan Hotel cost from £188-£253 per room per night.