Wrapped up chic and warm in Copenhagen

The name Copenhagen, or København, translates literally as ‘trading port’ and it shows. The Danes really know how to put their wares on display, nowhere more so than in the city’s main shopping street Strøget. A quirky blend of high street, big brands and cutting-edge local labels, Strøget epitomises the democratic nature of Danish design. Where else, after all, would you find the likes of Designers Remix rubbing up against H&M? Fashion aside, the capital of Europe’s oldest kingdom has plenty going for it. Boasting medieval streets, a picture-perfect harbour and a reputation for gastronomic excellence, it’s no surprise that Copenhagen is continually touted as one of the continent’s capitals of cool.

As the Little Mermaid was temporarily in Shanghai for the World Expo during my stay – and is, apparently, somewhat underwhelming when seen in person – I decided to bypass the sights on my first morning and headed straight for the shops, after a fortifying brunch at Café Norden. Located just off Strøget, it’s one of Copenhagen’s most famous coffee houses and does the best champagne brunch outside Dubai. Not feeling up to drinking first thing in the morning, I plumped for the tamer alcohol-free version, and sat back to people-watch. If surveying passing talent is your thing then Copenhagen is heaven, partly because just about everyone is ridiculously good-looking but mainly because the crowds thronging the pavements look like a fashion blog in motion. One local fashionista even managed to look cool while struggling to manoeuvre a bike across the cobbles. That’s no mean feat. Burning with barely suppressed style envy, I was ready to hit the shops.

While Strøget has the big brands, department stores and ubiquitous high street chains, the real gems are to be found in the warren of side streets leading off the main drag. From vintage stores to cute independent boutiques, it’s here that you’ll find the unique pieces and special buys. Top of the shops was Time’s Up (Krystalgade 4), a real treasure trove of vintage fabulousness that boasts a collection featuring YSL, Chanel, Gucci and Fendi. Once I’d finally been prised away from the jam-packed rails, we headed for Nué, a seriously slick boutique that’s got plenty for Scandinavian fashion fans. Stocking a carefully edited selection of local and international brands, the real stars of the show, for me, were the local Danish labels which included Bruuns Bazaar, Stine Goya and Trine Vestergård to name but a few.

The graffiti-strewn streets of Nørrebro

A little further out of the city centre, a lesser-known but no less wonderful shopping area is Nørrebro.  At first glance, it looks a bit dodgy with plenty of street art – graffiti if you’re a city-council worker – on display. But dig a little deeper and you’ll find plenty to like, not least a fabulous flea market, the quirkily named café Pussy Galore’s Flying Circus – complete with Arne Jacobsen-designed chairs – and excellent optical emporium Salling C (Nørrebrogade 118). Since glasses are seriously cool right now, I dropped in and spent half an hour trying on some of the huge selection of specs, including some comedy Lady Gaga-style pairs. Having decided that leopard-print glasses was one trend too far for me, I headed back to town for more people-watching and a night out in Copenhagen’s coolest party spot: the meat-packing district.

Despite having a deeply ingrained dislike of fish, I took the plunge and agreed to meet some friends at up-and-coming eatery the Fish Bar. Located in the heart of the meat-packing district, the restaurant is surrounded by working fish and meat markets, all adding to the edgily industrial atmosphere. Inside, the Fish Bar is the epitome of clean, Scandinavian design, featuring a huge central bar, stark white walls and a round tank of clear jellyfish. Nervously scrutinising the menu, I was relieved to spot a couple of meaty options but ended up choosing the snow crab which fortunately turned out to be utterly delicious, especially when washed down with some of the Fish Bar’s excellent cocktails, followed by fish and chips, wittily served in a newspaper cone.  After polishing off an excellent (and much needed) espresso, we decided to check out some of the local bars, starting with art-student favourite Bakken (Flæsketorvet 17-19).

Despite seeming to be a bit dingy from the outside, once inside, the lively atmosphere and bohemian crowd more than made up for Bakken’s looks, or lack thereof. While there was nothing in the way of champagne or cocktails – think no-frills G&T’s and cans of Carlsberg – it did have some brilliant quirky touches, including my favourite: a mini football table where we spent a competitive hour demolishing all challengers. Later on, we headed into the city centre and endured a mercifully brief spell at a ghastly German pub called Heidi’s before finding La Fontaine – a stylishly low-key jazz club. While the phrase ‘Danish music’ doesn’t sound too promising – Whigfield and Aqua springing to mind – the live band in La Fontaine told a different story, playing plenty of top-notch tunes. The bar also does a mean gin and tonic, and smoking is allowed which did nothing for the lungs but added nicely to the atmosphere.

On guard outside the Amalienborg Palace

Feeling less than wonderful the next day, we spent the morning watching the changing of the guards outside the Amalienborg Palace. A rococo dream, the palace is creamy white with a huge, jade-coloured onion dome on top and is the winter home of the Danish royal family. Not surprisingly, the guards kept Denmark’s fashionable reputation intact, turning out in blog-worthy navy blue tunics and black bear skin hats.

Less royal but equally pretty was our next stop: Tivoli Gardens. Possibly my favourite place in Copenhagen, even beating off competition from Time’s Up, the Tivoli Gardens are a gorgeously kitsch blend of flower gardens, opulent Moorish-inspired buildings and funfair rides. It’s lovely during the day but even better at night when everything is lit up with ropes of twinkling fairy lights, including Nimb, a hotel on the edge of the gardens and that evening’s dinner destination.

Resembling a Moorish palace on the outside, inside Nimb combines grand proportions with chic pale walls and dark wood furniture. The ground floor brasserie where we ate, has open kitchens where you can watch the chefs at work and a menu featuring modern Danish classics. It also has Christian Brandt who is quite possibly the most knowledgeable waiter I have ever come across and is equally brilliant at choosing wines. I had the veal tartare and roe deer fillet, while my friend ate veal sweetbreads followed by braised veal breast and tongue. My tartare was spot on: melt-in-the-mouth and delicately flavoured, and perfectly set off by the Marsannay wine chosen by Christian. My roe deer was a little heavy but I loved the berries and wild mushrooms that came with it. Too full for a pudding each, we shared a seriously yummy sheep’s yogurt, apple and mint bavarois.

Later we headed upstairs to Nimb’s bar which looks a bit like a cigar lounge but is far more relaxed. It was there I finally got to try Denmark’s third most famous drink – Cherry Heering. Nicer by far than schnapps or Carlsberg, it’s a cherry brandy which works brilliantly in classic cocktails such as the Singapore Sling. Sitting in front of a huge fire, with a cocktail in hand, it was the perfect way to end a wonderful weekend in Copenhagen.

Locals’ guide to Nørrebro, courtesy of www.copenhagenmediacenter.com