Beyoncé once mentioned Capri as her favourite holiday destination so if it’s good enough for a superstar diva then it has to be good enough for the rest of us surely? With or without the tag of celebrity haunt Capri remains a haven of wondrous natural beauty. The island’s rugged and mountainous terrain set off by a sparkling emerald-hued Mediterranean Sea continues to attract thousands of sunseekers each year.

Just 30km off the coast of Naples in southern Italy, Capri is only 50 minutes away by boat but its chi-chi reputation means accommodation doesn’t come cheap. However, Capri makes an ideal choice of daytrip from Naples or the nearby towns of Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi. There are several companies making the voyage: Caremar, SNAV and NLG to name a few, and a round trip will set you back around €30.

It is by approaching the main port of Marina Grande that you catch your first glimpse of the island’s beautiful landscape; lush green and dotted with charming villas built into the hillside. The scene at the marina is colourful: buildings painted pastel yellow, ochre, and cherry house alfresco snack bars, restaurants and souvenir shops.

The best way to get acquainted with your surrounds is to embark on a boat trip around the island’s coastline. The journey takes a good two hours and allows you to get a closer look at the major coastal features such as the Arco Naturale, the Faraglioni Rocks, the lighthouse and the magnificent grottoes. You will be spoilt for choice in terms of eye candy; jagged rock formations tower imposingly high above, tiny waves crash against craggy cliffs, secluded coves and grottoes appear at every turn while Mt Vesuvius looms in the misty distance. The Blue Grotto, or Grotta Azzurra, is famed for its intense electric blue interior, produced by the daylight-absorbing water inside the cave creating almost unearthly surroundings.

Upon return to Marina Grande your next stop should be the island’s largest town, also called Capri. Not one for the unfit, skip the funicular and walk there instead; the island is perfect for walking itineraries if you’re willing to take on the challenge. The steep and winding path is lined by low stone walls in most places, allowing you small glimpses of lovely private residences, their gardens and terraces. Lemon trees peek over fences and the smell of flowers wafts in the breeze. After about half an hour of walking (or struggling) you reach Capri’s main piazzetta, a bustling (though tiny) central square. Beneath a small clock tower tour groups gather to set out their day’s plans, local teens gleefully devour frozen confections from a nearby gelato stand whilst diners people watch, glass of vino in hand from the surrounding restaurants. From the piazzetta savour the most picture postcard-worthy views of Monte Solaro; at 589m above sea level it is the highest point of Capri.

A right turn from the square will have you on the Via Roma where the line-up of smart boutiques sell local handicrafts such as hand painted ceramics, wall-to-wall limoncello and leather sandals. Make your way to Via Vittorio Emanuele, where Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo and a plethora of jewellery emporiums will have you salivating at their shop windows. If you venture on to Via Camarelle you are well into designer wonderland; D&G, Alberta Ferretti and Roberto Cavalli are here, amongst others. Five star hotels and pricey restaurants are also plentiful.

However, it is in distancing yourself from such an elegant epicentre when the real pleasure begins. A good plan is to wander up to the Villa Jovis, although a lengthy stroll (one hour from Capri’s town centre) it is well worth it for the authentic island scenery. Admire charming details such as the backyard orange and lemon groves and mini shrines to the Virgin Mary behind rusty wrought iron gates.

Perched atop the Monte Tiberio, the Villa Jovis was the imperial residence of the Emperor Tiberius until the second century AD. Amongst the limestone and brick remains you can still make out the different rooms which served as, amongst others, the imperial quarters, servants area, entertainment area and observatory. The villa, thought to be built sometime in the first century AD, covers an area of around 7000 sq metres, and was only fully explored in the early 1930s. Standing at the highest point (335m) grants you breathtaking views over the Gulfs of Naples and Salerno. Misbehaving servants and other unsavoury types were thrown over the cliff’s edge now known as Tiberius’s Leap – or so the legend goes!

Should all the walking work up an appetite (and it will), stop at one of the simple family-run trattorias or snack bars en route. La Pallette (36, Via Matermania) is a ristorante slightly off the beaten track, a little tranquil spot perfect for an intimate meal. There is a wonderful vista over the Marina Piccola from the outdoor terrace, upon which a large tree’s low hanging branches provide welcome shade. Perfect pasta dishes, wonderfully al dente, will set you back around €10 each.

Time permitting a visit to Anacapri should also be squeezed in; Capri’s second largest town feels less touristy, more authentic and down to earth than its glamourous big sister. Take the opportunity to use the island’s bus service – the tiny yellow buses (with mostly standing room only) depart regularly from Via Roma. Being forced to stand as the bus snakes its way along the mountain side, veering and lurching dangerously close to the cliff edge will test anybody’s nerves. After a heart stopping bus ride the relaxed island feel of Anacapri is a welcome relaxant and a world away from the posers and snobbery of Capri.

Follow the signs towards the centre of town and you will find La Casa Rossa (The Red House), a dark terracotta building from the 19th century that features a number of architectural styles which means it stands out from its surroundings. Inside is a permanent exhibition (‘The Painted Island’) boasting 32 works from Italian and international artists. Other places to see include the church of St Michele Arcangelo in the Piazza San Nicola (the beautifully painted floor tiles depict Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden) and the Villa San Michele, now a museum, which was once the home of Swedish doctor and writer Axel Munthe. The multi-level villa was actually built on the ruins of an ancient chapel in the late 19th century. Nowadays it houses Munthe’s collection of ancient artefacts found on the island, assembled during his 56 years as a Capri resident.

For the adventurous there is no better way to see Capri in all its splendour than to wander around on foot. Plan to go nowhere in particular, set off in any direction you please, and you will discover the real spirit of Capri. It may be glossy and glitzy on the surface but if you take the opportunity to explore the island beyond the overcrowded town centres, the locals will impress you with their warmth and welcoming, while the scenery, well that will surely speak for itself. Capri, ce n’est pas fini!