Historic designs from Carven couture

Who are they?

Post World War II France was a hive of up-and-coming couturiers ready to sweep its demi-mondelles up into a fury of escapist fashions and into a new future, free from political turbulence. Dior’s New Look famously propelled scrimping and saving fashion into a new era of decadence, grabbing at the waistlines of elegant Parisiennes and flaunting a full-skirted silhouette that best suited those already blessed with  curves.

However, Madame Carmen de Tommaso, an interior designer by trade (who stood at a mere 5ft 1”) realised that this imposing silhouette rarely flattered the petite women amongst France’s couture clientele. Madame Carven was famously told by her own mother, “You will never be elegant”, and she seemingly battled against this diktat throughout her career. Madame Carven created the House of Carven in 1945; ostentation was disregarded in favour of democratic style that suited all female forms and which captured the spontaneity and promise of modern life in a recovering world.

Nonetheless, Carven was still a couture house, and therefore offered luxury clothing; frequently attracting many a member of European royalty to its atelier on the Champs Elysées. Over the course of many years Madame Carven launched several perfumes affiliated to the label, designed leisure wear, golf wear and was often seen driving an extremely elegant Fiat convertible; creating an all round brand image for the petite French woman that was just as fashionable as those of statuesque beauty. Carven was readily accepted into the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, but eventually ventured into ready to wear in 1958. The designer was renowned for dressing trend-setting teens rather than the usual mature customer of couture, and also became known for designing air hostess uniforms for Air France in the late 1960’s.

With the gradual demise of the couture industry, Carven ceased couture production in the early 1990’s, and Madame Carven finally hung up her scissors in 1995 at the impressive age of 84; allowing for the business to focus on ready to wear collections under the direction of Edward Archour and then Pascal Millet in 2001. In 2009, Guillaume Henry (of Givenchy design heritage) came to the helm of the label, only to whip up a storm at his Autumn/Winter 2010 show, where editors began to whisper of the long awaited rebirth of true, Parisian style and the messiah that resuscitated Carven’s sleeping beauty.

The Look

One of the most radiant pieces of Carven’s earlier collections was a green and white stripe summer dress, named ‘Ma Griffe’ or ‘My Label’. Not only did this garment spawn the name for Carven’s most famous perfume, but it also created the signature colour scheme of the brand. Every collection that followed contained a green and white motif, whether it were the striped skirt that graced the 1947 collection (which had a draped theatrical curtain that framed a hand painted Paris street scene!) or the fresh green gingham fabric found in the 1949 Africa inspired collection.

Carven's current ad campaign

Madame Carven was heralded as the most well travelled of couturiers of the era, as she loved to take inspiration from other far flung cultures and work them into French style, as seen in her Chinese themed ‘Lantern Collection’. Egyptian and Aztec inspired styles also featured in her designs, along with an entire collection inspired by the Spanish master of art, Velasquez, in 1959. The house became known for a style that was playful, innovative and artistic, with details such as trompe l’oeil designs and exquisite trimmings adding an elegant, decorative quality to the collection. Lace collars and cuffs, embroidery and beading were intended to emphasise the delicacy of the petite form without swamping the figure.

The Buzz

Following the Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, which captured a perfect balance between sexy and stylish (oh so French) Carven has caught the attention of the global fashion community. Continuing to preserve the youthful ethos Madame Carven aspired to half a century ago, the brand appeals to Europe’s hippest crowd- those who wish to exude a casual elegance without buying into try-hard style.

Henry is one of fashion’s men of the moment in terms of ready to wear design with mass market appeal; and he is endeavouring to regenerate the brand rather than alter it. A clever co-branding event with Didier Ludot has helped to raise Carven’s profile, with a pop up boutique established at Ludot’s store between the 6th and 31st August. The shop showcased vintage Carven pieces, and offered a close up look at the Autumn/Winter collection which stopped the heart of many a fashion editor.

Where to Buy?

Key pieces are available at Net-a-porter, and My Theresa. Check the brand’s website for details of international stockists.

Carven's subtle, yet sexy collection for Autumn/Winter 2010