Denmark’s capital proved once again that the Danes’ approach to fashion and artistic innovation should be watched closely. Not afraid of exploring or experimenting, it was the designers of the more avant-garde looks that attracted the most interest. Details from the eighties were in out in force in the form of Dynasty-style glitz, bows and polka dots. Harem pants, accentuated shoulders and jumpsuits were also being pushed forward as the silhouettes of spring 2010.

The four day event scheduled more than 40 shows including a few international brands such as Minimarket and Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair from Sweden, German brand Hugo Boss’ Orange line and Ivana Helsinki of Finland, however it was the home grown designers that led the way.

Danish designer Henrik Vibskov, whose aim is to give everyday clothing a reason to be loved, showcased his fantasy-fuelled Ready-to-Wear collection at an overgrown lawn located at Sibirien, Søndermarken in Copenhagen. The evening sky’s dark backdrop provided the right tone for Vibskov’s bold pieces that featured geometric and futuristic patterns that juxtapose art and fashion to create new concepts in both. Entitled “The Solar Experiment Donkey Show” models were sent out with platinum blond hair pieces, parted just enough so they could see and with some models walking with a donkey in tow. The mood created encapsulated clothes to watch the campfire by such as the blanket-style woollen poncho dress as well as a  ‘nomadic eighties’ vibe with Vibskov’s unique take on harem-crossed jumpsuits with oversized pockets.

Thinking outside the box is something Henrik Vibskov does well and his outlandish designs are among the internationally most wanted fashion items to come out of Denmark. Vibskov’s girlfriend designer Bibi Lowe also showed at this years CFW for her label Bibi Ghost. Her fourth collection called ‘The Secret Garden’ was as intriguing as Vibskov’s. Lowe was inspired by the notion of escaping reality and shape-shifting into other worldly creatures. Using mainly black and white she played with volume and shape against contrasting sleek cuts and loose deconstructive styling. The soft organic fabrics used had either a silken or a matte finish, ballooning over peep-knee leggings appearing dreamlike yet with contrasting military references.

Another brand whose design ideology for everyday fashion is to defy convention comes from Finnish label IVANAhelsinki. Describing itself as an art brand rather than a fashion label the S/S’ 10 Ready-to-Wear line was based on the brand designer Paola Suhonen’s dark yet girly powers of imagination. The compilation showed childlike party dresses with polka dots or  printed horse’s head graphics, combining the playful element with a dark side, as illustrated by the tear smudged clown make-up on the models. Paola reminded us of the times we are in and that behind the façade, clowns really are sad – we put on a happy face or outfit but really there is nothing to celebrate or be happy about, especially when you’re a grown-up.

Stockholm-based Minimarket designed by sisters Jennifer, Pernilla and Sophie Elvestedt  refused sobriety. Their collection featured a joyful use of colour and humour on easy to wear pieces that had some sixties references. Summer shades of coral, aqua, cobalt and orange were in composite block form or teamed with neutral tones for the soft tailored jackets, trousers and mini dresses.

Young talent via The Danish Design School Graduate Show was full of promise as the grads paved the way of for future fashions. In this show the avant-garde of Danish fashion was certainly alive, new and interesting ways of thinking with regards to shape, texture and fashion itself was abundant. The graduates were on point with the spring trends continued by this season’s theme. There was some creative manipulation of threads and fabrics that formed 3-D shape structures. The elaborate shoulder was explored again by the graduates as an area to emphasise or embellish as were legs. Futuristic, tribal patterned leggings and hosiery proved that we are not tired of this trend and we will be seeing plenty of ‘legs of interest’ for next spring too. Shades of neutrals, black and white appeared frequently and the only true colours used were vibrant purple or orange tones.

A new Scandinavian designer brand Karen by Simonsen was launched at this August’s CFW and was the first solo show for the designer Karen Simonsen, formally of design duo Munthe Plus Simonsen. Characterised by uncomplicated yet glamorous style, Simonsen’s fundamental approach is to use simple lines and modern fabrics. By focusing on the now the designer has managed to refine current looks while retaining the edge. Producing a simplified silhouette that gives an effortless, carefree style to the wearer Simonsen has some aesthetically pleasing results.

Another key look popular with Europe’s fashion elite, particularly in Scandinavia, is the luxe jacket with harem pants and gladiator heels. Due to its popularity, trend predictions are offering this look for next summer too. By Malene Birger is eagerly flying the flag for the trend with its S/S’10 collection. The Danish label celebrated looks favoured by style icons, classic luxury details and styling such as sophisticated day jackets, Panama hats and bold monochrome evening wear that provided a retro chic air.

Danish label Rützou addressed the bohemian vibe that will undoubtedly rise again next summer by adding some luxury to the equation. Think about the ‘rock elegance’ trend that was big for 2009, the same kind of thinking will see the emergence of the ‘sophisticated hippy’ for 2010.

Rützou’s ethereal styling was mixed with a refined chic and shown in the more floaty styles, hippy bandanas and dip dyed dresses. Colours such as electric blue, black and grey and patterns of stripes, polka dots and floral designs were displayed on a mix of lustrous and light fabrics. Loose harem trousers were paired with cowl neck tops under slouched sleeved jackets that incorporate luxury accents such as silk, sequins or caped sleeves.

Stine Goya however gets the ‘Best in Show’ rosette for her distinctive edgy line and clever use of colour that conveys beauty, emotion and drama. The Central St. Martins graduate’s poolside setting could not have been more appropriate for the refreshing collection. The mouth-watering palette of orange sherbet colours and ultra flattering pastel shades were seen on many key pieces. Once again harem pants and zippered jumpsuits ruled and yet the excellent styling would have you wondering as to why you haven’t worn one of these numbers yet! A white effervescent print fizzing out into a zesty orange hue was seen on a great v-neck one piece and a batwing sleeved dress. Lines were kept simple and the sporty appeal made the clothing seem fresh, effortlessly cool, even when a busier print was used. Black slimline suits and acid wash dresses pinpointed the collections edge and made for perfect evening wear, while the citrus-toned dropped waist dresses are great staple pieces for the day.

Overall Goya manages to make each of next years definitive styles desirable and appear easy to wear. Impressively the designer seems to have also made life a lot less complicated for buyers by creating possibly the only capsule wardrobe we need for summer 2010, thankyou Stine!