Dans Le Noir – London
A restaurant in complete darkness? Surely not, how would anyone be able to order from the menu, eat their food, pour their wine, or have a conversation? There must be some light, even just a tiny candle to avoid spillage or eye poking? No, there isn’t and there was much spillage and eye poking.
First opened in Paris two years ago, Dans le Noir? is a restaurant experience like no other. Their concept is one of a sensory experience and the re-evaluation of taste. Guided through the pitch black by blind waiters they hope that “for once blind people become your eyes”. And indeed they do. From the moment we entered the dining area my hand was firmly planted on the right shoulder of my trusted waiter while he led a line of us to our table. Having placed our hands on our chairs and explained that wine should be poured with a finger in the glass to avoid over spill, we were ready to fend for ourselves (though the mix up of red and white wine continued long into the meal!).
It was strange to be sitting in complete darkness, socially I found myself able to speak only to the people immediately next to me or directly across, which was limiting on a table of ten. It was funny at times though; trying to get someone’s attention provoked raised voices or accidental physical contact and of course the inevitable spilling of drinks. There was an atmosphere of excitement and giddiness while people scrambled for their napkins or tried to figure out where everyone else was.
Food choices had been made from the set menus before we were seated. I chose the meat menu while others sampled the fish, vegetarian or surprise menu. There is no other detail given about what you are going to have, therefore much of the dinner conversation consists of guessing what everyone is eating.
Unfortunately the actual quality of the food isn’t worth much conversation. The general consensus was that it was only average. My main course of duck was pretty tough, slightly cold and without much flavour, the surprise menu turned out to be alligator though in the darkness it was described as rather tasteless. Consequently no one emerged feeling satisfied by a gourmet meal. A little disappointing, but let’s face it; you’re not really going there for the food.
The staff is extremely friendly and patient, from the initial greeting at the door to the final meeting where they reveal what you have just eaten. This is a fun evening more like going to the theatre than eating out, and though I was still pretty hungry when I left I didn’t care. It is a rare occasion to find a restaurant that is so thought provoking, that builds awareness through the simple everyday events like eating a meal. I admire Dans le Noir? for its unique experience and its bravery but there is room for improvement. Though I am very glad I spent an evening there I wouldn’t go back for a number of reasons. Firstly it’s overpriced for what you get. Perhaps the house wine or food in Paris is better but in London both are quite average. If I had enjoyed my meal more I would happily take a friend there for an occasion but now that I know the food is not great and the novelty of the darkness has slightly worn off I see no point.
However having said all that, I would recommend going to take part in the event that it is. There is nowhere else like it and the food is really only a small part of the whole experience. We had a fun night in a relaxed atmosphere and it certainly was different!
The set menu is £32 for two courses and another £15 on average per person for drinks.
Dans Le Noir? 30-31 Clerkenwell Green London EC1R 0DU +44 207 253 1100

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