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Five of our Favourites… Ice Cream Parlours

Posted in Cover Features » by :: May 27, 2011

Summer season at Kauf Dich Glücklich

It’s summer! As seasons go, we can all agree this one’s a winner – what’s not to love about sun-soaked days lounging in the park or lazing by the beach? Who among us hasn’t rejoiced as we consigned thermal underwear, ill-fitting fleeces and assorted bulky winter accessories to the back of the wardrobe? And there’s another benefit. As temperatures heat up it’s imperative to cool down, so of course it’s advisable – nay, compulsory – to responsibly imbibe as much ice cream as necessary. In times of emergency there’s nothing wrong with succumbing to the shrill of a Mr Whippy van and slurping a soggy-coned 99 spritzed with synthetic raspberry syrup, but for optimal indulgence in a befittingly stylish setting we recommend you plan a visit to our pick of Europe’s best ice cream parlours.

Kauf Dich Glücklich – Berlin

Kauf Dich Glücklich may translate roughly as ‘buy yourself happiness’ but this East Berlin parlour isn’t the crass commercial enterprise that its name might suggest. A thrift store-cum-cafe, the shop is a charmingly inconsistent mix of mismatched salvaged furniture and unexpected accoutrements like glittery jewellery, 1960s toys and old records. It’s all for sale – even the chairs you sit on – and worth a browse, but make sure the menu’s the focus of your visit. There are over 60 varieties of ice cream flavours available, with enough curious concoctions to tempt you from the old reliables. Try the ginger ice cream for a bit of kick, while the lime and basil flavour is an olive branch for gourmands who prefer savoury to sweet. In winter, creations like marzipan and spiced cookie are more warming, and best enjoyed plopped atop a freshly baked Belgian waffle with some heated cherries.

Chin Chin Labs – London

Rather unfairly England seems to be regarded as one of Europe’s more culinary-challenged countries, but London’s Chin Chin Labs at least shows it’s one of the most adventurous. Europe’s first nitro ice cream parlour, it’s a curiously clinical place with staff dressed in white lab coats, goggles and gloves. The outfits may be a gimmick, but the process behind the ice cream’s creation is certainly impressive. After you select from the (rather limited) range of flavours, such as lemon cheesecake or Valrhona chocolate, your assortment is poured into a mixing bowl and then blasted with liquid nitrogen. It rapidly reaches a temperature of -196C to create a velvety smooth mixture – the speed at which everything freezes means ice crystals don’t have time to form and that’s why the luscious folds of ice cream are so fantastically silky.

Berthillon – Paris

Berthillon is Parisians’ definitive address for delicious ice cream. In operation since the 1950s, the brand’s signature store regularly sees queues snake out the door but the homemade gourmet gelatos are worth the wait. With 30-odd ice creams and a similar number of sorbets, there’s plenty to choose from but it’s perhaps the traditional flavours that are best. A generous scoop of white chocolate ice-cream goes down a treat on a sunny day, while the Irish coffee flavour’s perfect as a kick start before a weekend brunch. If you’ve got time linger over your selection in the Berthillon tearoom, which is simply furnished and unpretentious, and where flavours are served in delicate silver goblets rather than cones. It’s all rather close to perfect save for one rather curious oversight: as Paris swelters through August, Berthillon’s owners shut up shop and go on holiday.

Heavenly flavours : gelato in Rome

Il Gelato di San Crispino – Rome

You know an Italian ice cream parlour takes things seriously when it gets religion involved. Nonetheless, The Ice Cream of Saint Crispino has good reason to enlist the divine – this is quite simply regarded as the best ice cream available in the country regarded as serving the best ice cream available. It’s the crème de la crème of ice cream, if you will. The 20 or so flavours are made from scratch and change with the seasons, but you could find yourself noshing on yellow plum gelato, or perhaps pear or blackberry varieties. The fruit flavours are fantastically fresh and light, but for something a bit sweeter try the shop’s signature flavour, a simple mixture of cream and Sardinian honey. You won’t be disappointed by the flavours but there’s a facet of the visit that is perhaps less impressive. This is the gelateria featured in Eat, Pray, Love so you may encounter more than a few wayward tourists eager to create their own Julia Roberts moment.

Tichy – Vienna

If you dreamed of running your own ice cream parlour as a child chances are you fantasised about a place like Tichy. Some 60 years old, the parlour’s ringed by a plush burgundy banquette and framed by stained-glass pictures of ice cream. Staff dressed in candy-stripe red and white uniforms manage proceedings, doling out heaving scoops of ice cream to the crowds gathered there day and night. This is perhaps the most relaxed of the parlours, with multicoloured sundaes garnished with a dollop of fresh cream and glossy red cherries. They’re invariably delicious though, and a variation of Vienna’s famed coffee and cake tradition can be experienced here too. In the shade of the dining area’s blooming bouquets, patrons can sip on fresh coffee while nibbling on huge slabs of ice-cream cake flavoured with walnuts and caramel or mandarin and chocolate.

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About the Author

The travel editor of Running in Heels, Irishman John has also contributed to publications ranging from The Sunday Times Travel Magazine to Elle to Attitude. Previous assignments have seen him act alongside a Bollywood superstar in Mumbai and dine on freshly boiled dog meat in Vietnam (which tastes even less appetising than you might imagine), but for the time being he is most frequently found in London and Berlin. Follow him on Twitter @johnoceallaigh.

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