Fine dining at Fishmore Hall in Ludlow

Polishing off a multiple-course tasting menu at Fishmore Hall takes mental and physical preparation. It’s no good just starving yourself at lunchtime and hoping for the best, because even seasoned gluttonists will struggle towards the end – I am, and I have. Several times. Add in the matching wines, bread and a couple of surprise amuse-bouche from the chef, and what starts out as something incredibly exciting ends up leaving the recipient full, a little guilty, and vowing never to reach those limits of greed again. Nevertheless, if you get a good one, every bite to the end is worth the momentary feelings of discomfort.

The hotel’s nine-course Taste of the Marches menu (top marks to the restaurant for putting together a vegetarian tasting menu too), launched this spring in conjunction with their new Orangery dining space. I’ve had plenty of tasting menus in the past, but only ever around the five to seven mark, never nine, and in all seriousness, I wasn’t sure I’d make it. Of course one could always opt for the more controlled A La Carte menu, but find me someone, who when faced with salivicious, seasonal delights such as quail with truffle gnocchi, seared scallops and Jerusalem artichoke and beetroot carpacchio with soft boiled quail eggs and parmesan salad; plus savoury and sweet finishers in the form of local cheeses and raspberry soufflé, has the willpower to turn any of it down. With a rolodex of local, independent producers to sample, and only a short weekend break to discover them, this seemed the best way to do it. Plus I like a good challenge.

Despite my concerns, we arrived (myself and the boy), we ate – to a soulful soundtrack provided by a live jazz trio – and we conquered, every last artfully presented, delicious morsel. The dishes’ aesthetics magically convincing our stomachs that they were in fact as big as our eyes, and the knowledge that our room was only approximately 75 seconds away, were key factors in our survival.

When we first pulled up outside Fishmore Hall earlier that evening, it was difficult to believe that hidden behind the neat, bright white Georgian façade, were 15 bedrooms; generously-sized ones too. Clever architecture and contemporary interior design has transformed the former ‘naughty boys’’ school into a comfortable, country-house hotel, boasting 2 AA Rosettes. Each simply decorated room offers touches of comfort and luxury in the form of Molton Brown goodies, Ronnefeldt loose teas and homemade biscuits, big sash windows looking out onto the Shropshire countryside, large not-too-soft-not-too-hard beds, and in our particular case an in-room bath, dotted with nightlight candles, giant enough for bathing à deux, and perfectly positioned to take in the lush green fields and flat-screen TV simultaneously – though thankfully out of the view of any guests taking a wander outside.

After an undisturbed night’s sleep I awoke recovered from the previous evening’s gluttony, and actually rather keen to get down to breakfast. A generous portion of buttery, free-range, bright orange-yolk scrambled eggs for me, and a plate of ‘the best smoked salmon and eggs I’ve ever tasted’ for my friend, were devoured with the same greedy, plate-clearing gusto, setting us up for an explore of the village before the three-hour drive back to London. With regular open-air markets, selling organic fruit & veg, jars of homemade jams and chutneys, pies and pasties, fresh fish, meat, cakes and more, Ludlow is a great place to pick up some edible souvenirs. There’s plenty of other undercover shopping and eating options throughout the village, and for longer visits there’s Ludlow Castle, a nearby golf course, and a plethora of acclaimed restaurants in the near vicinity.

For those who love food of the award-winning local and seasonal sort, lush green countryside and traditional English villages, Ludlow is a great place to visit. For those after all that, plus a guaranteed good night’s sleep, a warm welcome, and course after course of culinary delights, Fishmore Hall is the place to seek out.

For more information see the Fishmore Hall website.

Each simply decorated room offers touches of comfort and luxury with sash windows looking out onto the countryside...