A founding father of the New Look

Born 18 May 1914, Pierre Balmain studied architecture before working freelance as a sketch artist in Paris. In 1934 he made the transition into fashion, becoming an assistant designer at Molyneux. After serving in the French air force, Balmain designed for French fashion house Lucien Lelong. After an eclectic start to his career, he finally opened the House of Balmain in 1945, aged 31.

Balmain’s Beginnings

Balmain said that his mentor Edward Molyneux was a ‘true creator’. He took what he had learned whilst acting as his apprentice for five years, and used it to influence his own designs. Balmain credited himself with the ‘New Look’, and opened his fashion house with a bang – by showcasing his first collection in American Vogue.

It was the end of the war, and after hard years of rationing and lack of luxury, it was clear the fashion industry needed a boost. Balmain is hailed, along with Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga, as having reinstated the need for lavish couture dressing after the end of WW2. Balmain’s designs caught the eyes of Hollywood’s elite and Royalty, favored by the likes of Katharine Hepburn.

Once his fashion house was established, there was no stopping Pierre Balmain. Having originally studied architecture, the designer believed that ‘dressmaking is the architecture of movement’, and was determined to accentuate the important relationship between architecture and fashion, something which can still be seen in the brand today. As far as Balmain was concerned, elegance meant simplicity, something that didn’t go down well with the Americans. He saw no need for ornamentation or adding something just for the sake of it. He stated that Seventh Avenue fashion was vulgar, annoying the American fashion press further.

The Balmain Style

Balmain was not interested in trends, and only wanted to dress women who wanted to be elegant and sophisticated. He was a firm believer in style, stating: ‘Keep to the basic principles of fashion and you will always be in harmony with the latest trends without falling prey to them.’ The basic mantra of style, some would say.

A typically Balmain look would consist of a sleek, slim silhouette for day, with a slight change in the evening, such as a full skirt. The colour palette is generally muted, with the cut and shape doing all the talking.

The Future of Balmain

After Pierre Balmain’s death in 1982, his high standards of elegance stayed with the couture world. The fashion house has seen its head designer change, starting with Balmain’s assistant, Erik Mortensen, after his death. American designer Oscar De La Renta followed, with Laurent Mercier taking over in 2003. 2005 saw the introduction of the current head designer, Christophe Decarnin.

Decarnin had spent a decade at Paco Rabanne, and took Balmain to an edgier level. He introduced shorter skirts, a tougher vibe and body skimming designs, moving the brand into the modern world, but keeping Balmain’s original vision.

Sharp tailoring for 2010 by Balmain

Now that Balmain is one of the biggest fashion houses, the brand’s shows at fashion week are highly anticipated, with the designs often becoming instant trends. From sharp shoulders to military details, many high street designs show heavy Balmain influences. Whether it’s a dress, a top, a shoe or the famous jackets, Balmain is often seen on red carpets and celebrity parties, with fans including Victoria Beckham, Beyonce, Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Moss and Kylie Minogue.

Christophe Decarnin has made Balmain a label to watch; sales have doubled, despite notoriously high prices. With Decarnin as head, the label is the epitome of cool luxury, worn by the fashion elite and WAGs alike. What is certain is that the timeless elegance of Pierre Balmain has lived on.

Balmain’s Influence

● The Statement Shoulder – Balmain were one of the first fashion houses to re-introduce a sharp 1980s-esque shoulder shape. Their dramatic, structured shoulders echo Pierre Balmain’s love of architecture. As soon as they appeared on the catwalk, they appeared on the high street, with every store having their Balmain jacket, at a considerably cheaper price.

● Sequined Stripes – A simple but effective idea. Take a wardrobe staple, the Breton tee,  embellish with sequins and add a huge price tag. This is what Balmain did, and the result was huge.

● Studded Heels – This iconic shoe design by Balmain gave rock chick girls with an attitude their perfect heel style. Worn to sex up jeans, or add edge to cocktail wear, studded heels have been a real Balmain showpiece.

Balmain’s show for Spring/Summer 2010