A chic, quirky look for Marni S/S2010

Brand History

Consuelo Castiglioni, creative director of Milan-based fashion label Marni, has made a name for herself with fashion fans the world over, even without formal design training. Raised in Switzerland, one might say that she happened by chance onto the world of fashion, in fact, marrying into it. Hher husband’s family business, Ciwi Furs, has long produced fur garments for European luxury brands, from Prada to Louis Vuitton.

Taking a first stab at designing, she introduced the line in 1994 as a side project for Ciwi, playfully calling it Marni, after her sister-in-law’s nickname, and emphasizing a unique, modern twist on styling fur. Following the brand’s immediate success, Castiglioni further developed and diversified the range of pieces, offering her clients ideas for what to wear with and under the fur.

Marni became an independent label in 1999, but allegiance to the family-business remained: the Castiglioni name is stamped all over Marni, with Conseulo as sole creative director, husband Gianni the CEO, and daughter Carolina running the online store. Today Marni is an internationally known, full-blown, ready-to-wear line, complete with accessories, handbags, and eyewear. Men’s and children’s collections were launched in 2002.

Eclectic Aesthetic

Marni has gained a certain notoriety in the fashion industry with a recognizable and unique aesthetic that extends far beyond fur. As a brand with a well-defined image, it’s a favourite among boho chic celebrities such as Maggie Gyllenhaal and Kirsten Dunst, fashionistas worldwide, and editors, who without fail pile into the Milanese shows happily sporting her iconic items.

Marni is a quirky cool eclectic mix of bold, vintage inspired textiles, flowery prints, combinations of off beat colors, and layered textures. With slightly hodgepodge style, the Marni girl is undeniably artsy and has an eccentric fashion sense. Yet somehow, all this complicated creativity seems to work. Far from being overtly sexy, Marni offers innovative, funky, approachable fashion.

Label Signatures

In an interview with the Financial Times, Consuelo Castiglioni explained, “I design what I like to wear myself. It’s how I started and how I continue to work. I do not have a muse, other than different elements that I like”. Indicating either, or perhaps both, her innately superb personal fashion sense and a clear hunch for wearable trends, Marni signatures unfailingly appeal to a range of women and reappear season after season:

● Comfortably odd shapes: Pieces do not require a stretch of the imagination, looks are interestingly wearable while shape-wise still being slightly avant-garde. Long, slouchy tunics, boxy jackets and blazers, cropped trousers and breezy skirts fit a variety of shapes, and can be easily mixed and matched.

Muted tones for Marni A/W 2010

● Creative layering: Fun and playful, Castiglioni combines a variety of bold, unique colours, retro textiles, Grandmother-ish patterns, and opposing textures (including fur, of course) to create mis-mash, artsy style.

● Unique hosiery: The Marni look is usually finished off with quirky, patterned stockings, short, colourful socks (often worn with sandals and strappy wedges), and leggings (even showing them for men in 2007).

● Chunky accessories: Sunglasses, handbags, and jewelry are big and bold, and true to the Marni aesthetic, are often of mixed colors and textures: think heavily sequined or beaded bib or sautoir necklaces, translucent resin bangles, and geometrically inspired platforms and wedges.

The Company

Stressing quality as much as innovation, the company’s website highlights its desire to maintain “eclectic style, especially researched and refined materials […] that ensures garments maintain a tailored aspect”. Marni stays true to this instance on quality by turning out pieces that are entirely conceived and produced in Italy.

Seemingly uninterested in merging with a larger fashion conglomerate, this family business sees annual profits of approximately $100 million. The Marni flair for the creative also sneaks into business philosophy. Refusing “a static advertising image”, fashion editors are left to express their own sensibility when featuring the label. Furthermore, flagship stores worldwide are carefully designed by reworking the Marni concept according to the unique vibe of each individual city.

Marni-fy Your Spring Look

Add a bit of Marni style into your wardrobe this spring and summer by pairing black and white stripes with a solid mint green or peach, or patterned leggings under a billowy tunic dress. Accessorize à la Marni by trying thin socks with gladiator sandals or tying a colourful scarf around a wispy updo.

For more information on Marni, see the brand’s online store.

A look at Marni’s collection for Spring/Summer 2010