August is a quiet month in Paris, often referred to as the ‘grand vide’ (‘big empty’). Parisians leave town for the country and a surprising number of businesses simply shut up for at least a month (even the famous Berthillon ice cream vendor on the Ile St Louis shuts up in what should be its busiest month – that’s how much the French cherish their holidays). Amidst the peaceful tranquillity of the eighth month, I was awoken from my social slumber by the Ecole des Filles de Joie.

So let’s be clear from the start: a ‘fille de joie’ is a lady of the night. Thus, I attended a class which claimed to teach me to be a lady of the night. Before you’re wondering where the line is drawn, I’ll state that this is in fact a burlesque stripping school.

I’d been given a preview of what to expect on the previous night when I attended their evening performance at arty Eastern Paris hotspot La Bellevilloise. Compered by the formidable Juliette Dragon (who stands impressively at over 6 foot with the aforementioned dragon tattooed across the whole of her back) we were treated to various ensembles of different girls, and soloists, dancing (more so than stripping, perhaps to the disappointment of the throngs of men surrounding the stage) in a burlesque style. It was certainly entertaining to a point, but I would complain that the presentation could have been improved. On a small, low stage, at one point the girls were introduced by name, one by one, and we were repeatedly reminded that these were the girls from the Ecoles des Filles de Joie (cross-promotion…). Unfortunately the effect was to completely demystify the performers. Furthermore, as the quality of the dancing itself was not universally top class, this regrettably combined to give the evening a rather amateurish feel, which felt quite awkward given the proximity of the girls and all their provocatively bared flesh to the audience.

Having danced various disciplines over many years, I may be a particularly harsh critic. When I met Juliette the next day she told me that the evening had set the all time record for the highest number of guests in an evening at the Bellevilloise. And this was in August.

I soon realised that I’d arrived a little ill-prepared for the class. 40 girls were all in the final throes of the full performance attire that I’d seen the night before – nothing more than underwear, plus stockings, elbow-length gloves, headdresses, feather boas, occasionally basques, and of course, heels. There were other first-timers less dressed up, but the idea is at least to start with your bra, knickers and heels. Other bits and pieces are available for purchase there.

When I tried my hand from the back row, I found myself a little disappointed with the lack of individual attention from the tutor towards any of the girls. Furthermore, the performance instructions were sometimes a little erratic and hard to follow. But eventually, as I looked around at the girls’ faces, I realised this wasn’t the kind of dance class I was used to – where you are corrected at every turn – but rather a class you attend for a bit of fun, maybe to help keep in shape, and if you have a little something new to show your boyfriend later on, all the better. Everyone seemed to be having a great time and content with learning a routine, if not necessarily how to individually refine their skills.

So all in all, if all you’re after is a bit of harmless burlesque – be it to watch, or try, L’Ecole des Filles de Joie is a great evening or afternoon of fun. Their new season of classes, every Saturday at the Bellvilloise,  starts up at the beginning of September, so find out more here:  For performances, check here:

A video from L’Express.fr taken at a Filles de Joie class can be seen below: