LFW: The Ones To Watch
London Fashion Week is famous for championing new design talent and the recent round of shows didn’t disappoint. From Olga Olsson’s swimwear to Prophetik’s eco-chic, these are the labels we’re tipping for the top.
Elliott J Frieze
British heritage, the Welsh countryside and expert tailoring come together in Elliott J Frieze’s magical designs.
Running in Heels: You used to be part of the design duo, Qasimi and the label Michiko Koshino. Why did you decide to go it alone?
Elliott J Frieze: I felt ready to go it alone after ten years of working within the industry. It had always been in the back of my mind. With my own brand I don’t have to compromise: it’s the only way to achieve a vision that is solely my own.
The S/S11 collection is the second under your own label. How do you feel about what you’ve achieved so far with it?
EJF: I have been overwhelmed by the support I have received from both press and our stockists. I also cater for private clients, which is an important and a highly rewarding element of my company as it means I get to know my private clients on a more immediate level.
Your last collection was inspired by the countryside. Has growing up in Wales had a big impact on your work?
EJF: Absolutely, I lived in the heart of national park as a child and being accustomed to such surroundings has certainly inspired me. It will certainly continue to inform my work.
Do you think fashion should focus on clothes first, art second or vice versa? Do you regard your work as a combination of both?
EJF: This is entirely up to the individual designer. Fashion is a form of applied art. My work sells, it is consumed and that is a large and very important part of my brand.
What is the Elliott J Frieze signature style?
EJF: I always work towards a slim and tailored silhouette. I’m told that my collections are becoming increasingly directional but I always have a strong emphasis on British heritage
What makes British style so special?
EJF: London Fashion Week has a real directional element that I don’t think is so apparent at other fashion weeks. The British too have an innate sense of charm in the way that they dress and put individual garments together.
What’s next for you?
EJF: I always like to remain open to possible collaborations and I’m in talks with underwear and accessories manufacturers at the moment. I’m also toying with the idea of a luxury loungewear division for next season.
Can you run in heels?
EJF: I’ll leave that to my girls!
Georgia Hardinge
Combining technical knowhow and an eye for a good silhouette, it’s no surprise that Georgia Hardinge is hotly tipped for stardom.
RIH: You’ve just shown your third own label collection and you already have a famous fan in Erin O’Connor. How does it feel to be so successful so soon?
Georgia Hardinge: Yes it’s exciting. It’s nice to have so much support in all of this. Especially as it’s a very tough and cut throat industry.
According to your website, music is one of your biggest inspirations. What are you listening to at the moment – should we tune in for clues about your next collection?
GH: We listen to all sorts in the studio. I love Grace Jones and all the 80’s favourites but the show music for my S/S11 collection was created by me and Roman Rappak. It was inspired by the theme of baroque classics mixed with some amazing scratchy dark sounds. It’s super fun to create a sound track from scratch!
You’ve previously worked with Samsung – would you like to repeat the experience or do something similar?
GH: Sure! It was my first commercial and a great experience, they flew me to Spain and I got superstar treatment -who would say no to that?
You have also worked with Caryn Franklin, one of the biggest proponents of plus size models. Where do you stand on the issue?
GH: Well I totally support it. I was one of the designers for All Walks Beyond the Catwalk [an initiative run by Caryn Franklin and Erin O’ Connor] which is endorsed by a famous eating disorder charity called Beat. It made me much more aware about these matters.
Tell us about your S/S 11 collection. Which is your favourite piece?
GH: The collection is called ‘la belle et la bête’ and Jean Cocteau was my muse for this collection. There’s also a touch of French baroque and New Romantics punk. My favourite piece is the structured black mesh dress which you can see through!
RIH: Got any fabulous projects in the pipeline?
GH: I’m collaborating with Swarovski on a big project now but I can’t say much about it at the moment. I can tell you I’m working closely with Charlotte Stockdale though, and it’s going to be amazing!
Can you run in heels?
GH: Yes I can – I can even cartwheel!
Ruth Ferguson
Capitalising on the Brazilian’s love of a good bikini, swimwear by Olga Olsson – the brainchild of designer, Ruth Ferguson – isn’t just made in Brazil; it’s got plenty of the country’s signature glamour too.
RIH: Was the decision to concentrate on swimwear inspired by the atelier’s location?
Ruth Ferguson: Brazil is without a doubt the best country in the world to produce swimwear in, it is light years ahead of the rest of the world in terms of cut, fabrics, innovation and creativity. I also found it hard to find innovative designer bikinis that weren’t either very plain or very bling in the UK: there didn’t seem to be many options out there. Lastly, swimwear makes me really happy because I love water, I love swimming, surfing and being in the sunshine. What could be better than creating a design that people will wear when they are probably most happy and carefree?
You have said your grandmother, Olga, is your muse. In what way does she inspire you?
RF: My grandmother loved adventure, and was a very happy, glamorous personality. She inspires me because she managed to combine both style and compassion. Not all people in fashion are Devil Wears Prada types. Why should people that love and care about the magical qualities of clothes be called superficial? Olga was the opposite of superficial – she had style and substance.
Why did you decide to get involved in ethical fashion?
RF: I’d always wanted to make a difference, and after spending long periods of time volunteering in Africa, Central America and Brazil, and studying at the University of Havana in Cuba, I knew that conscious fashion design was the path I wanted to go down, because it was about making positive change from within the industry rather than fighting against it. In my stints abroad I’d seen the other half of the coin, and I couldn’t just forget about that, I had to act on it. I was also really sick of seeing such cheap, disposable fashion everywhere, which cost nothing and meant nothing. So I decided to take Gandhi at his word and ‘be the change you want to see in the world’.
There has been a boom in eco/ethical labels over the last decade – do you think people have seen the light where ‘Mcfashion’ is concerned?
RF: I think awareness of the impact of the global textiles and garment industry on people and planet has grown considerably in the last ten years. I guess this is linked to the general trends in organic and fair trade food – and the slow-food movement. Now we have the slow-fashion movement. People have recognised that making something beautiful takes time and care. Clothes and food that are more sustainable and support small producers and the environment rather than exploit them are the only real option for our future.
Kate Moss has been snapped wearing Olga Olsson – how do you feel about that?
RF: I think she’s pretty amazing and I’m really happy she’s a fan of the brand!
You already do caftans and men’s swimwear. Do you have any plans to expand the line?
RF: My problem is that I have too many ideas – I want to design and develop every type of product you can imagine! I’d love to expand into ready-to-wear but its one step at a time. Currently there are a couple more projects that are on the go – they’re all top secret for now though!
Can you run in heels?
RF: I prefer to run barefoot along the beach!
Jeff Garner
Proving that eco-friendly fashion has more to it than hessian and hemp, Prophetik designer, Jeff Garner’s romantic silk and lace pieces are always beautiful.
RIH: You’ve mentioned a social element to Prophetik in previous interviews: what do you mean by that?
Jeff Garner: Social in terms of Prophetik means that we work with a different charity each season and do catwalk shows around the US to raise money for different local charities. I also speak at universities to help inspire and educate our future designers and world changers. I also take three student groups a year to different locations around the world to do a service project for a place in need. Examples include the ones we did in Waikiki, Hawaii which has a huge homeless population, Costa Rica, where refugees make houses out of rubbish and have no community centre for the kids, and Bosnia where we worked in villages where there is little hope and attention given to the children.
You used to work in the music industry before switching to fashion? Why did you decide to move into fashion?
JG: It was never a decision to move into fashion: that was always a drive and passion. I grew up around musicians who became my muses as I first began to dress them, connecting their musical art with a visual fashion representation. My experience in the music industry allowed my creative talent to finally emerge and became a catalyst for a full time move into the fashion industry.
Are you still inspired by music?
JG: I do feel that music is a creative platform as the lyrics and sound become a canvas and merge with a visual look on stage thus reflecting one another. I believe both mediums inspire each other. I personally only listen to classical music because I think so much, so don’t have much room to fill it with anything else. But I do choose music at shows which helps tell the story of the line. For example for Midnight Garden [S/S11] we had a Tennessee bluegrass band open the show that represented the menswear.
Why did you decide to show in London?
JG: London is at the forefront of sustainable design and ethical fashion. The government supports this movement among the artists so a true synergy can take place without the worry or stress of show costs.
What’s next for Prophetik?
JG: We just collaborated with Griffin Technology and launched a recycled leather iPhone case. It seems it went so well they want to do more products. I have also been talking to Quiksilver about a possible collaboration and a few other potentials. But my main focus is figuring out the logistics of our natural plant and earth-based dyes so we can apply a formula that could work for other labels as well, on a mass scale. The new line will have to be a surprise…
Can you run in heels?
JG: I can run in heels and a kilt but I would spare anyone that visual. I prefer riding boots…
Krizia Robustella
Bringing a Spanish flair and a sporty ethic to design, Krizia Robustella’s Baywatch inspired pieces are guaranteed to get you noticed.
RIH:You define your work as ‘sports deluxe’ – what does that mean to you?
Krizia Robustella: Sporty clothes with a touch of luxury that makes them special for day and night.
You’re from Barcelona which is known for its sports teams. Have football and other sports inspired your work?
KR: It’s an original question, but I don’t think so. I have recently worked with Nike though. I customised a Spanish football shirt for an exhibition in Madrid.
If FC Barcelona called tomorrow and asked you to redesign their kit would you and if so, what would you do?
KR: Sure! It wouldn’t be too difficult to reconcile with my style. I’d keep the lines and play with cut, volume and colour.
How does Spanish style differ from the rest?
KR: I think that the style no longer depending on the country: it’s all about the designer’s personality and way of expression.
You’re only 25 and already have eight collections under your belt. How does having achieved so much feel?
KR: I’m so glad, especially because everything has happened in a very natural way. It’s been a good experience for me.
You used to show at Madrid Fashion Week – why did you switch to London?
KR: I really love showing in my own country, but Spain doesn’t have much international impact. That’s why I went to London which means I’ve been able to show my work to a wider audience.
Can you run in heels?
KR: Actually, I can’t walk in heels. In Spain there is a saying: blacksmith’s house, wooden knife.





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