Hamburg's iconic town hall

Hamburg has attracted visitors for centuries. Previously it was sailors and wayfarers who traded at its port and lingered for a while in its notorious Reeperbahn red-light district. Nowadays the prosperous city’s world-class museums and revitalised waterfront provide more wholesome distractions. The head concierge at the decadent Hotel Atlantic Kempinski, a ravishing Grande Dame of a hotel that has stood in Hamburg since 1909, Dirk Bossmann gives his guide to the best of the Hanseatic city

You should visit Hamburg because it’s very international, very open-minded, very beautiful and it has the exciting spectacle of the port near the city centre, and the Inner and Outer Alster lakes within the city centre. We’ve really interesting galleries and museums, such as the brilliant Hamburger Kunsthalle art gallery, which exhibits the German romanticists Caspar David Friedrich and Carl Spitzweg as well as many high-ranking temporary exhibitions. Then there is the International Maritime Museum, with the world’s largest model-ship collection, or, on the other hand, the Miniature Wonderland, which is home to the world’s largest model railway. Hamburg is also the city with the most Michelin-starred restaurants in Germany.

The best thing about Hamburg is its cultural heritage. With John Neumeier’s resplendent Hamburg Ballet we have one of the world’s top ten corps de ballet. Admittedly it’s not too appealing architecturally but the grandiose Hamburg State Opera is definitely worth a visit too. It’s where Placido Domingo started his career. The worst thing about Hamburg is its supposedly notorious rain. Admittedly this isn’t the Côte d’Azure but, that said, it’s not as bad as people make out.

Hamburgers are people who are deeply in love with their city; they’re well-dressed, well-groomed and well-spoken. They might be defined as “reserved” by many and sure they don’t seem to be too outgoing and enthusiastic, but they’re still a friendly lot. And the port’s drawn people from all over the world – Hamburg is one of Germany’s most cosmopolitan cities.

My favourite district is Blankenese. Take the small bus named Bergziege, which means mountain goat, for an utterly scenic route along the very narrow road through the dip of a valley and down to the river. The area feels very much like a cute Riviera fishing village. Then have some fish at the Ahrberg Restaurant or take the ferry across to the old ferry house in Cranz and have a picnic with a panoramic view of Blankenese as your backdrop.

My favourite shops are Gebrüder Jürgens, a fantastic kitchenware shop that’s old-fashioned and homely in the best possible way. There’s also Ladage & Oelke, a clothes store that seems to be teleported from Edwardian England. It’s been owned by the same family since 1845 and is a Hamburg institution even if the clothes themselves might not appeal to younger consumers. Another unusual one is Brendler, a 130-year-old shop selling safari and nautical wear. Paulsen Confiserie is good for chocolates and the like.

When you’re in Hamburg be sure to try Labskaus, if you’re brave. It’s a sloppy-looking mix of corned beef, potato and onion that used to be popular with sailors and can still be found here. For everyone else fish, fish and fish. You won’t get it fresher than here!

My favourite place to eat is Carls Brasserie in HafenCity for fantastic Franco-German food, amiable service, a beautiful interior and a great view of the river. Its boss also happens to be the most charming man I know. Or the aforementioned rustic and lovely Ahrberg in Blankenese for fish, Butcher’s for steaks and Gallo Nero or Tarantella for Italian. Also of course try the legendary lobster bisque, which has been on the menu of our hotel’s Atlantic Restaurant since its opening in 1909.

Hamburg's raucous Reeperbahn

Start your night out at The East Bar, a beautiful bar filled with beautiful people, or, for fantastic views on port and river, the 20 Up or the Tower Bar, all in the borough of St. Pauli.

The best parties take place at the Reeperbahn, which is right by the port and is probably the world’s most famous red-light-district. Nowadays it’s a huge amusement park for locals and visitors of all ages, with loads of restaurants, pubs, clubs, theatres. It’s also where you’ll find one of the world’s best drag and cabaret shows, the Pulverfass. Mainly, the Reeperbahn is a must-visit sight because of the thousands of people walking from clubs to pubs to live-music halls. End a Saturday night by strolling down the cliff to the Fish Market at dawn. It’s a good place for an authentic fish bap and there’s an auction hall where you can listen to live performances from German folk musicians.

Hamburg’s fashion scene is concentrated around the Neur Wall shopping street in the city centre. This is where you’ll find all the big names like Hermés, Cartier, Bulgari and Gucci. A more or less secret tip, all top models have begged me for, is the Marktstraße in the Karo-Viertel quarter where you’ll find many vintage clothes shops. Also, in the affluent boroughs around the northern part of the Outer Alster lake, many local designers have their showrooms. When you arrive ask your concierge for advice on which ones are currently worth visiting.

The most overrated sight in the city is probably the rain. It’s well known but you’d do well to avoid it. Other than that there’s the… actually, no, it’s just the rain!

You definitely shouldn’t miss a sight-seeing tour with the red double deckers. I always check out those tours when in a new city, but this one is the best! They have proper guides on board, who are actually quite amusing.

To experience the city like a local walk along river Elbe or Alster lake on a Sunday and have a coffee or drink on the many jetty cafés. If you’re out on a Friday or Saturday it’s a good spot for local restaurants too.

Something you won’t find anywhere else is a port cruise on a typical Barkasse barge. As boats pass each other, their guides shout “er lücht” at the other’s passengers. It means ‘he’s lying’ but luckily they’re joking rather than being aggressive.

Take home some Hamburger Kieselsteine, which are jellied sweets that look just like multicoloured pebbles. If you want to have something slightly stronger, bring home some bottles of Alsterwasser (water of the Alster). It’s just a shandy made from German lager and lemonade but it’s delish!

Warehouses by Hamburg's Harbour