Valletta's picturesque ancient harbour

It was the recent Malta Arts Festival that drew me to this eponymous little island south of Sicily in an isolated stretch of the Mediterranean, but anticipating some time to spare between solo recitals and dramatic sonnets I did as any good traveller would to prepare for a stay in new country.  You’ve guessed it: a last-minute launch into some duty free guidebooks and a quick scan of travel websites. Interestingly enough, no matter what the source, the first comment always made reference to Malta’s rich history and unique culture.  I distinctly remember smirking at the inexact description – one could say the same of any place, right?

I’ll admit it openly, one hour under the Maltese sun and I had to eat my own words – the guidebooks weren’t kidding, they just hadn’t told the half of it. Malta is this crazy mix of Baroque architecture, imposing city ramparts, Roman ruins, a hilly, arid Mediterranean landscape, and the occasional red English phone box; this extreme heterogeneity due to the countless succession of invaders who left their mark on the island.  In a place where people speak a Semitic language written in Latin script and who are devoutly Catholic, it’s hard to remember that you are neither in Italy, nor in Northern Africa. Malta is cultural diversity to the max.

A speckle of land in the centre of the Mediterranean Sea, Malta is actually an archipelago of three islands but only two-thirds the size of Andorra.  Yet despite its confined borders this pint-sized country could be the perfect choice when planning your next holiday, whether you’re a beach bum or a museum and monument junkie.  And since English is spoken pretty much fluently by everyone, from bus driver to bar tender, you won’t have to think too hard when navigating its borders.

Where to Explore

Valletta

A visit to Malta absolutely must start in its capital, Valletta (and not just because it’s so well connected, being within two hours’ flying time from most of Europe).  Founded in 1565 by the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, it’s built on a peninsula nestled in between two large harbours.  Valletta is completely fortified by impressive 16^th century bastions and ramparts and is home to an array of churches, Baroque palaces, museums, and is the island’s main business and government centre.

Take a stroll down the city’s bustling Republic Street and you will easily stumble upon the main points of interest in Valletta, including St. John’s Co-Cathedral, which houses Caravaggio’s brutal masterpiece The Beheading of Saint John The Baptist, the artist’s largest painting and the only one he deemed worthy of his signature. Other sites of interest nearby include the stately Grandmaster’s Palace, home to the Maltese parliament, and the grand National Library.   For an impressive panoramic view of this walled city, you might also choose to walk around the circumference, along the ramparts.  Should you prefer to ride rather than walk, negotiate a price with the driver and take a tour of the sights in a small horse-drawn carriage, known as a karrozzin.

For a taste of Valletta that diverts from the typical tourist trail, explore Strait and South Streets.  Once known for its bars and live music, the area has become considerably quieter recently but has been showing signs of recent resurgence. It’s here you’ll find some of Valletta’s newer, hipper locations including a smattering of lively restaurants and independent stores.  If it’s too hot outside make time to sample a glass of Maltese wine at the funky, underground wine bar Trabuxu or browse through the cool vintage clothing and accessories in local boutique Blush and Panic.

Tranquil coves on Malta's coastline

Vittoriosa

Vittoriosa (sometimes referred to by the Maltese as Birgu), the city facing Valletta on the other side of the Grand Harbour, can be reached via public bus, which leave from the Island’s only bus station, located at the main gates of Valletta.  The excursion is definitely worth the journey if only to hop on one of the iconic 1960s yellow and orange Maltese public buses. In Vittoriosa, be wowed by the incredible yachts docked in this beautiful port, try a glass of Cisk, the local lager, at one of the many quaint restaurant terraces along the waterfront, or take a tour in one of the small water-taxis that bob along the bay.  Also in the area are the Malta Maritime Museum and the Church of St. Lawrence, Malta’s first parish church.

Mdina

Also worth a visit is Malta’s original capital city, Mdina, founded by the Romans some 4000 years ago.  At just €1 for a return bus ticket it’s an inexpensive and easily accessed day trip from Valletta, and far more sedate than the modern-day capital. Located in the centre of Malta, the walled city is perched high above the plains.  Its most famous sight is the massive Cathedral of St. Paul, where the saint was said to have converted Publius to Christianity.  Be sure to have a look in the small shops that sell traditional Maltese pottery and lace should you want to take a traditional keepsake home.

Where to Hit the Beach

For those who search a beach holiday, the island’s shores hold numerous public and private beaches.  The idyllically named Golden Bay on Malta’s west coast is the place for adventure sports, with parasailing, scuba diving, jet skiing and sailing all possible. From the southern town of Zurrieq, visitors can reach the Blue Grotto, which according to legend was once occupied by mermaids.  The expansive beach at Ramla Bay, on the northern island of Gozo also features Calypso’s Cave, said to be where Ulysees meets Calypso in Homer’s Odyssey.

What to See

Besides its monuments and beaches, Malta is also an alluring destination for those who enjoy the arts, as the island hosts an array of festivals throughout the year, including a number of concerts and a summer jazz festival.

The Malta Arts Festival, held every summer, is the island’s premier cultural event.  This festival, as it has since its debut in 2005, is organised to promote intercultural dialogue and develop arts appreciation in Malta by uniting local and internationally known artists and troupes from the performing and visual arts.  Among the esteemed cultural figures who have contributed to the festival are London’s Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre company, renowned conductor and pianist, Wayne Marshall, American tenor Clifford Bechtel and the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra. The programme is as diverse and multifaceted as Malta itself, with events taking place in locations often closed to the public, including the shaded, sultry gardens of the Grandmaster’s Palace – perfect for outdoor performances during the balmy evenings that characterise Mediterranean summers.

Where to Stay

Our favourite spot for a stylish stay in Malta is the glamorous Hotel Phoenicia, built by Lord and Lady Strickland  in 1939 to be Malta’s premier luxury hotel.  Easily accessible by taxi from Malta’s airport (8 km), it’s positioned a few steps from both the main gates of the capital city, Valletta, and the island’s main public bus station – so the best of the capital itself and connections to everything else of merit in Malta are literally on your doorstep.

Glamour and luxury: Hotel Phoenicia

This stately five-star, five-storey hotel is set on 7.5 acres of pristine gardens and overlooks one of the two harbours in Valletta.  The large majority of the 136 rooms have been recently renovated in a chic art-deco style that includes bold, metallic floral wall murals, richly shaded in teal, charcoal and gold. A handful of rooms boast independent balconies complete with quaint sets of tables and chairs, positioned towards the harbour for magnificent sea views.

Guests at the Phoenicia, which was voted by Expedia as one of the world’s top 1% of hotels in 2009, can expect an array of top-notch facilities and amenities, including 24-hour concierge services, pool, spa, hair salon, five gourmet restaurants, complimentary excursions to the beach and a 12-hole miniature golf course. One could easily spend an entire holiday without leaving the hotel’s grounds and the hotel prides itself on catering for its guests’ every need – lazy days spent lounging by the pool are positively encouraged by the friendly and attentive staff, particularly during the hotel’s weekly cocktail party. Try to dress the part if you do attend, however; you never know who might be in attendance. Past guests of the Phoenicia include Joan Collins, Roberto Benigni and Queen Elizabeth. As royal seals of approval go there’s no better endorsement for Malta and the Phoenicia than to say they’re truly fit for royalty.

Further information on tourism in Malta and its cultural events and festivals can be found at  www.visitmalta.com and www.maltaculture.com.

For more information on Hotel Phoenicia, see the website.