Williamson's debut collection in 1997

A small retrospective of Matthew Williamson’s colourful and exuberant career is currently on display in a free exhibition at Somerset House in London, coinciding with the release of Colin McDowell’s coffee table appropriate book, simply titled ‘Matthew Williamson’.

The exhibition begins with a lead-in through the hallway of the Clore Hall, and blown up images of Matthew Williamson and friends, with text written bythe designer himself and his collaborators over the years; about his beginnings as student at Central St. Martins and finding his feet as a designer. It instantly projects the feeling that the exhibition and book come from a personal place for Williamson.

The show then moves into the Courtyard Rooms with the same continued formula of blown-up photographs and explanatory text boards, all of which is taken directly from his book (which makes it hard not to think it would be easier to buy the book and immerse oneself in his world from the comfort of a your own home). Despite the lack of any displays or styled mannequins, the exhibition is full of inspiring photographs, sketches, mood boards and editorial shots, and truly showcases Williamson’s intrinsic knowledge of colour, cut and print.

Featured heavily in the first room are images from his debut show back in 1997 which featured a bevvie of famous friends, from Kate Moss to Jade Jagger. With riotous colours and prints, this first collection clearly signaled Williamson’s dazzling emergence onto the fashion scene. His designs have been permanently etched into fashion history and every image is a reminder of just how popular they were (and continue to be) and the trends that Williamson helped establish as staples in every woman’s wardrobe. Highlights include the nude ‘Cobweb’ dress from his debut collection; his now signature peacock prints on flowing bohemian dresses from his SS ‘04 collection, a Rajasthan Silk beaded and layered halterneck gown from AW ‘00, and multiple intricately beaded coats and dresses from his SS ‘09 and AW ’09 shows.

Having been supported from the get-go by industry icons such as Lucy Yeomans, editor of Harpers Bazaar and British Vogue’s Alexandra Shulman (who both contribute heartfelt speeches in his book), Williamson’s career has truly now been set in stone. And not just because of this exhibition or book, nor countless celebrity friends, but because of his exceptional talent and relevance within the industry.

Williamson injected some much needed cultural flavour into women’s wardrobes and his book, along with the exhibition, proves his pedigree as one of this generation’s top British designers.

Matthew Williamson runs at Somerset House until 30th January 2011. More information is available online here.

Matthew Williamson’s catwalk show for Spring/Summer 2011