Merle O'Grady at London Fashion Week

Merle O’ Grady studied Fashion Design at Limerick School of Art & Design, Ireland. This was followed by Accessory Design at Cordwainers at the London College of Fashion. Originally from Dublin, she now splits her time between her home city and London, where she has her workshop. Her designs are industrial and futuristic, yet luxurious and feminine and have been featured on the pages of glossies from Grazia to Marie Claire.

Merle works with antique gold-plated brass, lapis, amethyst, Swarovski crystals, and silver, and her work is very much like the woman herself; detailed and beautiful, bold, intelligent and full of glorious contradictions. These are the perfect pieces if you’re looking to make a statement with your accessories. Running in Heels caught up with the talented young designer…

If you like what you read, don’t miss Merle’s website and e-shop. You can also follow Merle on Twitter @merleogrady.

Have you always wanted to be a jewellery designer?

It wasn’t an intentional career path really, I studied for a BA in womenswear for three years but really felt way happier with my work when I went on to specialise in accessory design at Cordwainers. I’m most content designing accessories, I love that I’m designing pieces that someone can really make their own and wear in loads of different ways to work with their life. The jewellery side to my designs started after I graduated; I lived next to an architectural salvage yard and discovered a bucket of chandelier crystal from the 1800′s, so I started experimenting and got the bug! The designs I do now are a very far cry from the delicate, vintage-styled pieces I made back then but I’m happy that chance discovery led to the career I love now.

How did you get to where you are today and would you do anything differently?

I was utterly determined to have my own business as soon as possible after graduating, but that meant doing things without a wad of start-up cash. It was by no means the easiest way of trying to begin something and there are so many financial roadblocks as you go along, I wish it had been less of a haphazard progression! I fully ‘fess up to being a workaholic and I’m stubborn and very determined so that all helped! But it was a brilliant way to learn invaluable lessons and I don’t think I’d change that for anything

Who helped you along the way?

My amazing family, the enablers! Their support made me have the determination to succeed and the freedom they allowed to focus on doing something creative from such a young age meant I never questioned the path I was on really. I’d get the odd “so when are you joining the civil service?”  joke from my dad on the way but I haven’t heard that one in a couple of years now so I must be doing something right! And my brilliant boyfriend with the patience of a saint, who has been with me all the way and puts up with our home being transformed into a sparkly deathtrap before every fashion week!

What does your jewellery stand for?

They are statements in themselves. You have to be really decisive to wear them. I don’t do sentimental jewellery; it’s not what I’m drawn to. Unless it’s an obscure sentimentality. Or a sentimentality because someone you love bought it for you. But they are not sentimental pieces. They are about strength. They are quite lethal, a bit like weapons. I feel a bit safer walking home wearing them! And I had a ring taken off me at security once. But it turns out, the guy just loved the ring. The jewellery is Joan of Arc; medieval and tribal.

What’s it like to be a woman in fashion today?

Jewellery is a quite a male area. You have to stand your ground and not be seen to be a little girl. But I don’t want to be a hard bitch. I think you can be soft and ladylike and still run a business and succeed. I am a woman designing for women – that helps.

An embellished cuff by Merle O'Grady...

If you could make any piece for any person who would it be?

I love Anna dello Russo, the editor of Japanese Vogue. She has an entire apartment just for her clothes. I’d love to make her the most incredible, no holds barred necklace; something magical. I just think she’s incredible, and in
interview she seems nice as well. She’s my choice.

Who or what inspires you?

It’s all about who and not about what. I don’t get inspired by people – that sounds really bad but it’s because I am totally visual. I have been looking at Chris Von Wangenheim images from the seventies, Navajo patterns and Delahaye vintage cars. Prints, patterns – I like the idea of throwing things together that shouldn’t be, for example nature and future.

What do you think is the biggest problem in Irish society today and what is the most positive thing?

I think the biggest thing is a lack of consideration for other people, everything crappy stems from that – self-involvement and disregard for others matched with aggression is a horrible combination that’s a bit too common today. The most positive thing about today’s society is the freedom of choice and tolerance, I’m thankful that a there’s not as much fear and more acceptance of people’s life choices than before – that’s a good progression.

Do you feel Irish or European?

I feel Irish. Although there was a while with the whole Celtic Tiger thing that I felt uneasy when I went home and I would have said I felt more European. There was a horrible atmosphere of competitive materialism and it was all a bit dark. Now, even though we’re on our arse as a country because of said Tiger, I’m utterly in love with Ireland again, because that amazing, infectious warmth is back and there’s an appreciation of people above everything else.

What would be your desert island book?

I don’t read ever. It’s to involving. If it doesn’t have pictures it’s not for me. One of my favourite possessions is an old old copy of Alice through the Looking Glass and Alice in Wonderland. The illustrations are pen and ink, really beautiful and I can look at them over and again. A lot of my earrings look like the white knights from Alice in Wonderland. It’s amazing how your childhood stays with you.

Who are you listening to at the moment?

I love the ‘Tron’ soundtrack by Daft Punk and The Black Keys’ Brothers. But basically I just listen to BBC 6 Music all day, every day. I have to have noise on, I hate silence. I can’t think with silence, my dad is the same.

Intricate earrings and necklace by Merle

What couldn’t you live without?

It’s sad but it would have to be my Givenchy bag and edamame beans – I’m basically a carnivore otherwise so I’d probably die if I didn’t eat so many of them

Favourite movie?

Blade Runner, it’s the only movie I can watch over and over again because it’s so beautiful to look at.

Favourite European city and why?

Dublin because it’s always going to be home

How do you stay motivated?

I try not to compare myself to others, that just leads to self-doubt.

What is your favourite bar?

My favourite bar is Hawksmoor on Commercial Street in London. They do a cocktail called the ‘Jack Rose’ and it is the best drink in the world. I don’t go there so much for the atmosphere – I’m literally there for that drink. And when I’m in Dublin I like the Bernard Shaw.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

Bigger and better collections. I’ll have my own manufacturing unit so everything can be made under one roof to help resist the allure of ‘made in China’ even more. And maybe I’ll be pulling pliers out of kiddies hands’ and stopping them from swallowing Swarovski crystals.

Can you run in heels?

Now that I’ve a busted knee I can’t wear heels for at least six months so definitely no running! I’ll get back to you on that one…