Vieux Nice

Nestled on the Cote d’Azur, the beautiful stretch of Mediterranean coast in the south-east corner of France, Nice regularly plays host to the world’s rich and famous – and has been doing so since the American jet set began arriving in the early 20th century. Nowadays Nice represents a brand of low-octane glamour that hints at ‘the way it was,’ and even though its star may have slightly faded, it remains one of the places to be seen during a sultry European summer.

Nice’s charms are in its old town, or Vieux Nice, where you can easily lose yourself amongst its tiny streets and delightful, candy-coloured buildings. From dusty terracotta and salmon pink to sandy yellow, the buildings themselves have a worn and weathered air that very much adds to their charm.

Exploring the old town is best done on foot, and a good place to begin is the Cours Saleya. During the day the locals come here for flowers and fresh produce, except on Mondays when it becomes an antiques market. This lively pedestrian zone is also home to many restaurants with outdoor terraces perfectly positioned to soak up the sunshine.

Hidden away in the narrow streets behind the Cours Saleya are a mass of restaurants, bars and takeaways. Try the eastern end of Rue de l’Abbaye for a large selection. The beau décor and cuisine française at Le Tire Bouchon (19 Rue de la Préfecture) is the perfect place for a romantic tête-a-tête. For a more rustic and homely atmosphere the popular Nissa Socca (5 Rue Sainte Reparate) feels down to earth with its cheap ‘n’ chic plastic tablecloths. It is a favourite amongst locals for its woodfired pizza and Niçois specialities. Nocy-bé (4-6 Rue Jules Gilly) serves exotic teas under the soft lighting of lanterns in an Arabian Nights style cavern. Outside the old town, but just as vibrant, is the area where Rue Massena meets Rue Halévy, on the northern side of the Jardin Albert 1er. The cafés and brasseries here have a more laidback vibe.

Nice's Promenade des Anglais

To satisfy your sweet tooth head for Place Rossetti in the old town; in the shadows of the Cathedral Sainte Reparate are a handful of gelaterias that produce home-made, or “fait maison”, ice cream. Gelateria Azzura (Rue Sainte Reparate) offers about 80 different flavours of ice cream, sorbet and yoghurt – making one’s choice very difficult! Meanwhile, Fenocchio Maitre Glacier (Place Rossetti) produces traditional flavours alongside several surprising and unconventional ones, such as beer, black olive, and vanilla and red pepper.

After exploring Vieux Nice, head down to the Promenade des Anglais (named after the 18th century English nobility who would spend their winters in Nice), the walkway that lines the beachfront west of the old town. The ‘beach’ is far from the best to be found on the Riviera (more pebbles than golden sand – a potentially painful experience) but is popular anyway. The Promenade is a hotspot of activity – folk of all ages run, walk, cycle and rollerblade with 60s style holiday hotels and palm trees on one side, and the dark turquoise waters of the Baie des Anges on the other. Here is another great place to watch the world go by: fishermen reel in their catch of the day, swimmers tiptoe cautiously over the pebbles towards the water’s edge, and elderly French women sunbathe in all their topless glory.

It’s on the Promenade des Anglais, opposite the Jardin Albert 1er where you can jump aboard the Petit Train. With departures every 30 minutes these tiny trains are a real novelty and a fun way to see some of the main tourist sites, and especially efficient if you’re pressed for time. For €7 you’re taken on a 40 minute tour of Nice’s town centre and up to La Colline du Chateau, the big hill (or small mountain, depending on how you see it) that provides panoramic views over Nice and the stunning sea below. Disembark the train here, stroll around and take in the picturesque landscape – return trains will take you back to the Promenade every 30 minutes.

If you want to buy some glamourous threads to blend in with the playboys and It girls there are plenty of fashionable boutiques to flash the cash. Ex’l (Place Charles Felix) sells the trendy labels Diesel and Replay while just around the corner is the Fashion Gallery (Rue Saint Suaire) that stocks fashionista faves Antik Batik and Les Petites, all colour coordinated and arranged below huge jewelled chandeliers in a very girly boudoir-like setting. Also in the old town you’ll find Nikita Angel (Rue de la Préfecture) for casual wear and bikinis and a few doors down Antic Boutik for sneakers and streetwear. West of Place Massena (on the outskirts of the old town) the Avenue de Verdun is home to the likes of Louis Vuitton, Escada, Longchamp and Charles Jourdan, purse strings permitting.

The Museum of Asian Art

Those who yearn for a cultural hit can visit a variety of local museums. Although Nice is no Paris or London, there are many places worth a visit. The Museum Matisse (164 Ave des Arènes de Cimiez) contains the artist’s paintings, drawings and engravings in a gorgeous 17th century Genoese-style villa. While the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Arts (Promenade des Arts) is a shrine to European and American avant-garde art from the 60s to the present day. The Museum of Asian Art (405 Promenade des Anglais) puts on excellent seasonal exhibitions in addition to special events like origami seminars and Japanese tea ceremonies. The Museum of Fine Arts (33 Ave des Baumettes) has a large collection of 17th and 18th century Italian paintings and 19th century Impressionist and Romantic works. But let’s face it, Nice has a wonderful climate of hot summers and mild winters that make it a great place to stay outdoors, so perhaps leave the museums for a (rare) rainy day.

Nice’s ideal location as the gateway to the Provence region means daytrips to other major Riviera towns are easily made. The main train station, Gare Nice Ville (Ave Thiers) is 1.2km north of the beach and has fast and frequent services to many destinations. Monaco is only 20 minutes by train, and even quicker if you choose the helicopter option! Once there, visit the flashy Monte Carlo and marvel at the luxurious hotels overlooking the harbour, play with the high rollers at the Casino de Paris or watch the Changing of the Guard at the Palais du Prince. Or you can follow your nose to Grasse, the world perfume capital, where for hundreds of years new perfumes have been created. All the large perfumeries such as Galimard (73 Route de Cannes), Molinard (60 Bvd Victor Hugo) and Fragonard (20 Bvd Fragonard) have their factories here and offer free guided tours of their workshops, letting you in on the origins of perfume and how it’s traditionally made. You can even create your own perfume and purchase all products at factory prices. Only 40 minutes away is Cannes; best known for its prestigious film festival that attracts the A-listers each May, this international seaside resort lures the astonishingly wealthy to its exclusive restaurants and boutiques along the famed Croisette. In short, beautiful but certainly not budget-friendly.

However, don’t be put off by the region’s image of playground for the rich and famous – Nice and its surroundings can be enjoyed without permanently damaging the credit cards. It is in one of the most beautiful parts of France, and offers a great opportunity to revel in casual glamour, soak up the vibrant Mediterranean atmosphere and, as the French say, profitez du soleil!