Rick Owens – London
He who dares…
Rick Owens new London flagship store is now open and the avant-garde designer’s ‘Priestess of Longing’ SS09 collection is firmly engraved on our most wanted list.
If you’ve reached the tipping-point already when it comes to ditsy florals then Rick Owens new London based flagship store is the place to go. The Parisian based California native has a devout following who covet his contrasting simple and edgy nouveau styling, including the likes of Madonna, Courtney Love and the Olsen twins. And it’s no wonder, given that he has all of the staple pieces needed for a sophisticated rock couture wardrobe; clingy tee’s, washed leather biker jackets and bias-cut asymmetric dresses make for some very wearable pieces.
The collection is predominantly black with a few greys, however don’t let that alarm you. The femininity is there, the romance is there; seen in his backless nude panelled halter dresses with shape aiding knots and cut- away sides. Arched hemlines at the front which fall longer towards the back over a skinny leg form the back bone to this collection. This creativity with hemlines produces illusionary pieces that give a multi-layered look.
You may assume that all this detail is lost amongst the dark palette? Not so; Owen’s talent for shape manipulation along with the mixture of organic textures and soft sheens rather allows the detail to come into its own. So those cut-form silhouettes you crave, can be well achieved here.
Simple yet elegant lines and asymmetries are seen on the one shoulder dresses, giving a nod to the uprising sense of tribalism and pilgrimage for this season. This ‘pagan/warrior’ image resonates particularly deeply because of the economic drama it is emerging into; yet armoured with spike adorned sleeves it might just be possible to break on through to the other side.
The Mayfair boutique is housed over two floors and even features a wax model of the designers head on a podium! You will find all of his labels; Rick Owens, Lilies, his amazing jeans line ‘Drkshdw’ and his fur line ‘Palais Royal’ which carries some of the most formidable sculptural outer wear ever seen.
Embrace the dark side…..
Rick Owens 64, South Audley Street, London W1K 2QThttp://www.rickowenslondon.com/
Paris 75001 T.

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