Sarah Brown, the founder of Pai skincare

In 2007, Sarah Brown left her role in international PR and spent three years retraining, before launching Pai in 2007. Her aim was to create the “cleanest plant-based skin care on the market,” which could be used by even those with the most sensitive of skins. Today Pai’s range is sold in over 40 countries across the globe, gaining numerous awards along the way, as well as praise from beauty editors and enthusiastic customers alike. We met the woman behind the brand to find out more…

Have you always wanted to set up your own skincare brand?

I’d always wanted to set-up my own business but the idea for Pai didn’t take shape until I suddenly developed a bad skin allergy and needed a drastic solution for it. Like many I initially turned to organic products for help, but the more I searched, the more disillusioned I became. Nothing seemed to work on my highly reactive skin and I couldn’t fathom the number of beauty products on the market claiming to be ‘organic’ that weren’t. I set about creating Pai with the ambition to create light, 100% natural creams that customers could not only depend on for their difficult skin but that were also a pure delight to use.

How did you go about creating Pai?

I took a number of basic courses in cosmetic manufacture and the rest was self-taught. My skin problems triggered a real obsession with cosmetic ingredients and a fascination with how the skin works as an organ. It very quickly became a labour of love and still is today. I launched an initial range of seven core products in 2007. At the end of 2008, I enrolled the help of an ex-L’Oreal chemist to finesse my formulations and assist me with manufacture. She is still at the company today and heads up all new product development.

What’s different about Pai?

Pai is all about sensitive skin. As a result of my own battles with skin hyper-sensitivity, we’re one of few brands that truly understand its very specific needs. Our products cater to the whole spectrum of sensitive skin – whether dry or oily, youthful or mature. We also formulate and manufacture all of our products in-house and are one of the few brands that can say this. This gives us complete control and the absolute freedom to innovate. Hundreds of hours go into our product development and we don’t stop until they’re perfect. This commitment makes our products very unique - most natural skincare companies farm out their product creation to the same few external formulators.

How do you feel about the organic beauty market today? is it just a trend?

Not at all – if it was just a trend it would have died a death a long time ago! The organic industry continues to grow. While we’ve come a long way in the past 20 years there is plenty more room for progress, and topping my list is the need for clearer labelling regulation. Any company can currently make ”natural” and “organic” product claims regardless of what’s in their products.

What’s the advantage in buying organic or natural beauty products?

● They are better for long term skin health. Certified organic products are free from chemical detergents, harsh preservatives and artificial fragrances that can dry out, irritate and prematurely age the skin.

● Natural ingredients are better metabolised by the body. It’s unclear exactly how much we absorb into the body via our skin and it can vary from ingredient to ingredient. But, absorb we do – just think how effective nicotine patches are!

● They are better for the environment. The Soil Association rules that all of our organic ingredients must be grown in clean soil (without pesticides), extracted without solvents and grown from sustainable crops.

Does organic skincare really work as well as non-organic?

Organic products used to lack sophistication both in terms of composition and appearance, but now some are really pushing the boundaries and rival the mega brands in terms of performance. Organic Rosehip oil is a fantastic natural alternative to Retinol (Vitamin A) which is used in many acne and anti-ageing products. It’s far more gentle on the skin, contains the full range of Omegas essential for skin health and repair - its remarkable skin benefits have been proven in trial after trial.

What’s your best-selling Pai product?

Our Camellia & Rose Gentle Hydrating Cleanser. The detergent and alcohol-free formula lifts away dirt and impurities without stripping away your skin’s important natural oils - the result is a smooth, happy and perfectly balanced complexion.

Pai’s best-selling hydrating cleanser…

An invaluable skincare tip?

Great skincare is essential but it’s just the tip of the iceberg. While it’s a cliché you need to feed your skin from within. I am a big advocate of essential fatty acids (Omegas) as they keep the skin beautifully calm and conditioned. Oily fish seeds and nuts are all good sources but if your diet is less than perfect there are some great oil supplements on the market that can be drizzled on salads or, if you’re braver, taken straight off the spoon.

What’s your personal favourite?

Our Chamomile & Rosehip Sensitive Skin Cream is close to my heart. As I suffer with urticaria my skin can often flare, but the soothing extracts in this light cream hydrate and protect whilst also calming any redness. This cream was one of the first products in the Pai launch line-up and it has become a cult classic.

Five beauty essentials we’ll find in your handbag?

● Mineral Make-up - This changed my life; I always found foundations too heavy or pore-blocking, and could never get the application just right. A light brush of mineral powder gives lovely light and natural-looking coverage without congesting the skin. My favourite brands are Inika and Lily Lolo.

● A Kabuki brush - these are an absolute must-have for applying mineral make-up as it prevents it from looking cakey on the complexion.

● Pai Fragonia & Seabuckthorn Instant Hand Therapy – my hands get a lot of wear and tear, especially when I’m in the lab. This cream absorbs instantly without any greasiness – it’s a one-pump-and-go product that I’m really proud of.

● Une Breezy Cheeks Cream Blush - I’ve never got on with powder blushers. This cream gives a matte finish and goes on beautifully.

● Pai Bergamot Lip Balm - yhis product does what it says on the tin but I particularly love its aroma. I’m a big Earl Grey tea fan which is infused with Bergamot!

How did you get to where you are today and would you do anything differently?

By sticking to my principles and slogging my guts out. There is nothing more profoundly rewarding than creating something meaningful from nothing but your own hard work. Would I change anything? Not really, because you only move forward by making mistakes and learning from them.

Who helped you along the way?

Lots of friends and family as well as a few of my suppliers who took a total punt on me at the beginning. Plus of course my amazing team at Pai – each and every one of whom are wonderful individuals and are an absolute pleasure to work alongside. They understand and respect what I’m trying to achieve and tolerate my extreme untidiness.

Who inspires you?

My former boss was an astonishing lady. She had a killer business instinct but also boundless energy and positivity. She juggled continuous international business trips with three children under the age of five. She made the Duracell bunny look docile. Also the individuals you occasionally come across in life doing remarkable selfless acts to make a positive difference to the world. I always remember Lloyd Scott, a former leukaemia sufferer, who ‘ran’ the London marathon in a 60kg deep sea diving suit. It took him six days.

How do you stay motivated?

I think about all the bills and staff I have to pay at the end of every month. It brings razor sharp focus!

Today Pai’s acclaimed skincare range is sold in over 40 countries across the globe, gaining prizes and praise from industry experts

What do you think is the biggest problem in British society today and what is the most positive thing?

It may not be the biggest problem, but I think as a society we have a terrible attitude towards ageing. Getting older is a fact of life and there is no miracle way to turn back the signs of time without painful surgery. I’m a big believer in looking and feeling the best you can for your age, rather than striving to look ten years younger. Embrace those laughter lines and minor imperfections – they’re your souvenirs of a happy life and make you, uniquely you!

As for the most positive thing, it’s probably the great British sense of humour. I think we have a unique appreciation for the ridiculous which can be a breath of fresh of air. When I lived abroad it’s one of the things I missed most.

Do you feel British or European?

Most definitely British. I was born and live in London, and am very proud to have created a British manufacturing company.

Favourite European city and why?

Right now, Copenhagen. We’ve just launched Pai in Denmark and I almost feel guilty flying out there to ‘work’. It’s a calm and classy city.

Favourite movie?

Ferris Bueller’s Day Off still takes some beating but that’s the 80′s child in me coming out! And Shawshank Redemption and Cinema Paradiso never fail to tug at the heart strings.

Desert island book?

A Ray Mears Survival Guide. So I can build myself a tree house and know which berries are safe to eat!

Rosehip: Pai’s ultimate skin multi-tasker

Favourite bar?

The Redwood Bar at the Clift Hotel in San Francisco. The walls are supposedly clad from the trunk of just one redwood tree. They do a mean rose petal martini.

Favourite London place?

Regents Park.

Who are you listening to at the moment?

Two Door Cinema Club.

What couldn’t you live without?

My husband!

Five beauty essentials we’ll find in your bathroom?

● Pai Pomegranate & Pumpkin Seed Stretch Mark System - I’m currently pregnant with my first baby and have been smothering this on to my expanding waistline with reckless abandon! It’s a really unique approach to stretch mark prevention as it incorporates two separate products – an oil to improve skin suppleness and a high water content cream to increase moisture levels.

● Savon De Marseille Olive Oil Soap - It produces a wonderful natural lather and contains 70+% olive oil so doesn’t dry out my skin.

● Pai’s Echium BioRejuvenate Eye Cream – this is my Number 1 rescue product when I’ve been burning the candles at both ends! My tip is to keep one in the fridge to apply in the morning after a late night. It’s the perfect pick-me-up.

● Strange Invisible Perfumes - I love beautiful, feminine scents but for years had to forgo perfumes because of my allergy. These perfumes come in a wonderful range of natural scents - I spray them on my clothes rather than directly on my skin.

● Pai Rosehip BioRegenerate - this is the ultimate skin multi-tasker. In the summer I like to apply it after I’ve been in the sun (mixed in with my Pai moisturiser). In the winter I use it in the evening three times a week as a facial treatment.

Dream purchase?

A remote and ramshackle cottage in the south of France.

What’s next for Pai?

We plan to invest heavily in new product development next year. Some of the new products on the horizon really break the mould and will help to take natural beauty to a whole new level. Roll on 2013….

Can you run in heels?

No! I have freakishly narrow feet so struggle to keep any shoes on, let alone heels.

For more information, see the Pai website. You can also follow the brand on Facebook and on Twitter @PaiSkincare.