It’s not unusual for locations to serve as inspiration for a fragrance. Michael Kors, for example, is a fan of Miami and the Caribbean as themes for his limited editions, while L’Artisan Perfumeur scents have been inspired by exotic destinations from Bhutan to Timbuktu. But Berlin? Not so much.
Serge Lutens however, being the artisan that he is, doesn’t do usual. A poet, painter and photographer as well as master perfumer, he has used the city as source material for the latest fragrance from his eponymous luxury label. To be even more specific, the scent draws on post-war Berlin during the Soviet occupation. The city and all of its history is something of an obsession for Lutens, who created the La Fille De Berlin to celebrate beauty rising from adversity with a blend that is both delicate and dark.
Notorious for not revealing the notes in his fragrances, Lutens does divulge that La Fille De Berlin is inspired by, ‘a mix of hyper-femininity, represented by girls in dinner jackets, slicked back hair with red lipstick on pale skin.” So far, so German, Sally Bowles. The fragrance itself however translates as something softer combined with that dark edge.
The first thing that strikes you is the vibrant red juice that illuminates the slim and sleek signature bottle. Mist it over your skin and you’ll smell something refined, sensual and beautiful – not surprising once you know that its been developed by Chanel’s Christopher Sheldrake (Lutens has the world’s most esteemed noses on speed dial when it comes to scent creation). The identifiable notes come from powdery tea rose, clean violet and softly spicy pink peppercorn, making it feminine without being too girly or overtly sexy.
The oriental floral is reportedly the only scent due to come from the fragrance house this year (rather than the usual two or three), making it an even more covetable addition for devotees of the cult collection. Trip to Germany, optional.
Serge Lutens’ La Fille De Berlin is available to buy online here.