Lara Stone: the 'curvy' model

2009 has been a year filled with contradictions for the fashion world. Just when we were beginning to think that  looking like a lollipop was no longer fashionable, we were bombarded with another onslaught of skinny, fragile looking women. These waif-like figures provide fuel for the never ending size–zero debate as plus size models struggle to achieve the same success as their skeletal counterparts.

Year after year the same arguments are put forward as the fashion world argues models are simply freaks of nature that eat but do not gain weight; meanwhile the media continues to criticise the image of skinny women on the catwalk, billboards and magazines.

Though 2009 has seen the introduction of curvier figures on the catwalk and in fashion magazines, plus size models are definitely still outnumbered by the numerous emaciated figures pacing the runways. However, it seems an internal war has started this year within the fashion industry as designers and models are starting to defy the norms their colleagues have been conforming to.

This year we saw the introduction of model Lara Stone whose ‘curvy’ looks created a stir. According to photographer Bruce Weber, ‘she’s big, bad and beautiful’. Stone has been hailed as the new ideal for the modelling world, yet if you were to look at a picture of Stone you would be slightly confused as to why her body has been labelled ‘curvy’. Stone, 25, is a size 8 and whilst this is huge advancement from the ridiculously skinny models who rule the industry, championing a marginally more meaty model as ‘curvy’ is dangerous. Not only does it ignore models that are plus size but it sets a ludicrous precedent for men and women who struggle with their figures.

Looking at photos of Stone, all one sees is a slim woman who has been gifted in one department; she’s a 32D. We have to remember that when labelling Stone as curvy that the media does not mean curvy in the ordinary sense but curvy according to the fashion world: an industry which has grown accustomed to hiring women who look like 12 year old boys.

Models at Mark Fast's SS2010 show

Alexandra Shulman, editor of British Vogue, added to the size debate this year by writing a letter to major designers claiming that the sample clothes no longer fit already established supermodels. Clearly the letter has had little impact as Stone told Britain’s Vogue magazine: “I’m different because I am fat. It would be nice if I wasn’t the only person with tits and an arse.” Lara Stone told Elle magazine that she didn’t “want to be the fat one anymore” and is working out to lose those ‘extra pounds’. There goes another chance for the fashion industry to portray a healthy image of women.

Making more of an impact, Canadian designer Mark Fast decided he wanted a size 14 model to display his clothes at London Fashion Week. Size 14 model Hayley Morley made a statement when she walked for the young designer. Morley is definitely working against the norm with her 34D bust and 29in waist but her figure is perfect for Fast’s dresses. Though the dresses appear shrunk on the hanger, they have been made using a blend of lycra, viscose, angora and wool and have been made to stretch and mould to your shape.

Fast’s idea to use plus size models was inspired by his project All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, a project he worked on with Susan Ringwood, from eating disorder charity BEAT. The show exhibited models aged 18 to 65 and sizes 8 to 16. Fast has since claimed a deal with Topshop.

Meanwhile the icons that should be setting a good example appear to be reinforcing the right to be skinny. Kate Moss has been accused of endorsing anorexia after saying ‘nothing tastes as good as skinny feels’. Since Moss mentioned her motto in an interview with Women’s Wear Daily to promote her new perfume, pro-anorexia websites have already lapped up the comment to defend their eating habits. Whilst Kate Moss cannot be held responsible for those who suffer from eating disorders, she certainly can be held accountable for making it appear glamorous.

On a more inspirational note, model Crystal Renn spoke out about her battle with hunger. Renn released her book Hungry this year describing her struggle with her body as a young model. Renn spent years going through drastic weight loss until she finally had the courage to embrace her curves whilst working for an industry she knew would scold her for eating. However, starting to eat led to the launch of a more consistent successful career. Going from a size 00 to a size 12, Renn slowly regained her curves and it was not long before Renn became the highest paid plus-size model in America.

Lizzie Miller in US Glamour

Renn writes, ‘You can learn to love the size you’re supposed to be. I had to lose seventy pounds (along with lumps of hair, muscle mass, the ability to concentrate, and any sense of joy) before finding my sanity. I regained the weight and, in the process, became an infinitely more successful model. My self-acceptance led to a return of the intellectual curiosity I’d had as a child, before I got on the weight-loss express. It led to a better career. It led to romance. I’m proof that life doesn’t have to wait until you’re skinny.’

Also making headlines this year was 20 year-old model Lizzie Miller who modelled for Glamour magazine showing every single wobbly part of her body. The photograph showed a confident woman at ease with her body allowing Glamour readers to finally see a real woman who has not been airbrushed. Most Glamour readers were shocked to hear that at 5ft 11in and 12 ½ st, Miller is considered too big to be employed as a plus size model. Miller’s agency however, has asked her not to lose any weight and with all the bookings she has made since her shoot with Glamour, Miller won’t need to start a crash course diet anytime soon.

So there you have it; the highs and lows of the size zero debate which no doubt will carry on well into 2010 but hopefully we’ll see the balance tip in the favour of curvy women rather than the skeletons we have become accustomed to seeing.