Running in Heels

What To Wear Next

Posted in Big Feature Box » by admin. :: July 22, 2010

The 1950’s Starlet

Never before have bosoms and buttocks been so celebrated, than with the 50’s inspired silhouettes that sashayed down the autumn/winter catwalks this year. Ample cleavage spilled out of stately corsets, pushed up by nipped in waists, with swirling skirts waltzing beneath shapely hips.

It was Louis Vuitton that stole the show in terms of femininity, as oodles of fabric positively swished around the thighs of the curvier models Marc Jacobs had chosen to hail the return of ‘real’ female figures. Oversized bows gently rested on the girls’ toes, as if they had merely settled there like butterflies. Hair was coiffed into bouncing, gleaming pony tails and handbags also had a 50’s vibe; seeing the comeback of the ‘Speedy’ silhouette – a style favoured by Audrey Hepburn. Even Jacobs’ soundtrack emphasised the ethos we should be adopting this season, ‘God Created Woman’.

Prada followed suit on the feminine vibe, with elegant beehive hairstyles perched upon the girls dressed in full skirted gowns with dainty décolettes. Cut out details beneath the bust added a modern twist on the New Look image, and elbow length gloves added a truly Park Avenue feel.

However the look shouldn’t seem too vintage: contemporary details will make all the difference between being on trend and looking like you should be holding a bottle of Cherry B at a church dance. Experiment with leather accessories such as long gloves, or skinny belts to cinch in your waist, and wear with chunky block heels. Innovative fabrics, such as Jacob’s wool trapped between layers of organza, and Prada’s bust ruffles will make this classic silhouette right on trend for 2010.

Nudes at McCartney and Aquascutum

Sandy Style

Nude, taupe, crème caramel, mushroom, toffee, porcelain, café latte, string. Just don’t call it beige. Chloé chose the colour palette of the season, offering a delicious selection of beige based beauties, with various shades and fabrics combined together to create a subtle contrast between texture and hue. Giles and Phillip Lim continued the trend, combining black and chocolate accessories to break up the block colour, such as the belt of the season, which should be as skinny as your latte.

Aquascutum naturally had the best camel coat of the catwalks, which was floor length and fitted; a simple cut that flattered the female figure whilst creating a modern silhouette thanks to its knotted belt. Combine heavy fabrics such as camel outerwear with lightweight, barely there chiffons to keep the look contemporary and fresh. At Stella McCartney, the nude palette was spiced up with accents of red, a colour combination also seen at Valentino and Givenchy. Gold will also brighten up beige beautifully, or follow Marc Jacob’s lead and choose glimmering sequins to liven up the matte, base shade.

This is It

When it comes to accessories, this season it’s all about the name. Think of the latest It bags as your new best friends. ‘Louise’ and ‘Alexa’ are treasured options from Chloe and Mulberry, while YSL’s ‘Downtown’ is better suited to those of you who carry your entire lives around with you. The Fendi Peekaboo is the perfect solution for office smart chic which still manages to exude elegant nonchalance.

As ever, the Chanel 2.55 is top of the wish list, available this time around in on-trend shades of camel and caramel. The whole ethos of the It bag has matured this season though; there is less glam hardware, and the colour palette has been toned down into a muted melange of natural hues. Size wise, these beauties are more manageable than their predecessors; big enough to be practical, yet far from being oversized fashion fads.

Highland styling at Just Cavalli and D&G

Highland Lass

William Wallace would have felt right at home on this season’s podiums. Despite the fact that the last time a kilt took centre stage in fashion was during the rather dubious Christina Aguilera ‘Dirrrty’ video, the Scottish national dress has been hailed as the most on trend mini this season. Just Cavalli even produced an entirely leather version for the more adventurous of highland gals. Don’t limit yourself to plaid though; this season it’s all about being an all round outdoor girl, even if you’re not. Hiking boots with substantial stilettos were adopted at Burberry Prorsum, while chunky knee high socks were seen across the board.

The khaki parka is a crucial item to the outdoors look, as seen at Marc Jacobs and Topshop Unique, who even had models adopt furry animal ears and mittens like paws to enhance the earthy ambiance. Knitwear is the building block for the outdoor theme; choose oversize knits, especially cable, in neutral tones. Country club chic is a must: dress as if you were living in a ski lodge and you won’t go far wrong. Furs, tweeds, wool and suede are your tools.

Alpine knits, heritage checks and enveloping capes were embraced across the catwalks, with Karl Lagerfeld going as far as importing an 8.5 ft high iceberg to emphasise the cool factor of his fur-filled collection (which didn’t actually use any real animal skins… we knew Karl was a softie at heart). If you don’t fancy going for the full on yeti look à la Chanel, then opt for a shearling lined aviator jacket, which should be the keystone of your wardrobe this season. Burberry offered the most enticing versions, with a thick downy lining encased by mushroom and chocolate leathers, topped off with chunky buckles. It’s time to take a step outside ladies – be who you want to be – fisherwoman, huntress, or pilot. Just make sure it’s adventurous with a capital A.

Curious: McQueen and Dolce & Gabbana

Curiosity Shop

It’s time to adopt a magpie approach to dressing. Seek out the most sumptuous, extravagant fabrics you can find and combine them to create a ‘dressing up box’ effect. Collections were filled with plush velvet and embellished with intricate lace, as seen at Richard Nicoll and Alexander Wang. Brocade featured heavily too, with the late King of decadence, Alexander McQueen offering a plethora of heavy woven and gilt styles in his last ever collection to be shown.

Feathers were a common motif of the designs, and many designers combined other animal inspired prints, such as leopard skin, to create an over the top approach to dressing. Dolce and Gabanna’s collection summed up the look, where their satin slip dresses in bold jewel shades were adorned with gothic onyx lace. The theatricality created by their leopard prints, bold colour palette and dramatic black separates was undeniable; it evoked Italy’s young riche making their way from the opera into the dead of night.

Crushed velvet skirts at Marc Jacobs were equally eye catching, and New York’s golden boy even combined fur and velvet to create a truly indulgent look.

New Minimalism

There has been an underground revolution over the past couple of seasons, whereby ready to wear has come to mean just that. The inspired lady behind this new religion of wearable, yet desirable fashion; is Phoebe Philo. Her collections for Celine have been devoured by fashionable folk, as her purist approach to dressing (involving simple yet sleek separates that create an ageless capsule wardrobe) have seduced those who wish to invest in quality clothing rather than purge on quick fix fashion.

Wear it now: Celine and Stella McCartney

Keep colour palettes simple, opting for monochrome combinations in hard-wearing yet exquisitely well cut fabrics. Philo created coats and capes made from an angelic white shearling, edged in black leather, along with practical tunics with leather pocket details.

There is a certain androgyny involved in this look; no feminine frills and fuss are allowed, but keep the silhouette sexy by maintaining a balance between fitted pieces and the more boxy styles on offer. Stella McCartney offered a similarly practical collection, yet its short, shift dresses were no less lusted over than the frou frou cocktail wear we are used to. With whispy chiffon and clean cut lines, the collection was ideal for women of today, who have actual lives to be getting on with whilst still wanting to look stylish and sexy.

Meet Me Halfway

This season it’s all about the grey area. It’s not too long, it’s not too short… midi mania has hit the catwalks. Make like Goldi Locks and find the hemline that’s ‘just right’, with the same rule applying to heel height. Just below the knee is the perfect length, whether you go for a full skirted option as seen at Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten, or a closer fitting pencil skirt as seen at Marc Jacobs. Waist lines should be held high in order to keep the look alluring rather than granny chic.

Brogue and loafer styles with midi heels are the perfect accompaniment to mid way skirts, but keep legs bare (apart from over the knee woollen stockings if you’re chilly) to avoid seeming too laced up. What’s more, ‘kitten’ is no longer a dirty word in fashion, after Mrs P created her delectable kitten heels that had us all clamouring for their minimalist, modern shape yet wearable heel.

Glam grunge at Versace and Balmain

Grunge Glam

Glamour has been revamped. No longer synonymous with sleek, overly polished and manicured style; this autumn glam means grunge with a gothic edge. Ditch doll like cocktail dresses for the leg lengthening cocktail trouser, such as Phillip Lim’s tangerine pair, or embrace molten metallic shades as seen at Balmain. Baroque inspired styles were popular, with pussy bow blouses spilling over tightly fitting trousers and thigh high boots.

Think back to the early days of Studio 54, and indulge in subtle references to glam rock, combining with gothic lace as seen at Christopher Kane and sultry Edwardian inspired pieces. Marc Jacobs redefined evening wear, with his floor length sweeping maxi skirts in shimmering crushed velvet complimented by loose knit jumpers. The combination exuded laid back nonchalance whilst still remaining sexy, which proved that west coast Hollywood glamour is just a little too high maintenance for the modern woman.

If you’re brave enough, try out red velvet (yes, really) or the bold ultramarine fur seen at Versace; just be sure to keep it glam with plenty of leather accessories, sequins or studs.