Mary Katrantzou chats to Libby Banks

Last week, UK women’s site MyDaily named Mary Katrantzou as its new contributing editor, and celebrated the announcement by inviting a host of top blogs and fashion websites (including RIH of course) to watch the Greek-born designer in conversation with MyDaily’s Editor Libby Banks.

Trained, like many great London-based fashion designers, at Central St Martins School of Art and Design, Mary Katrantzou is renowned for her mastery of digital print. The recipient of six seasons of NEWGEN sponsorship, she first showed at London Fashion Week in 2009, but it was her spring 2011 show that saw her rapidly rising star fixed in the fashion firmament – a collection that took entire room interiors and rendered them, trompe-l’oeil style, in print. Anna Dello Russo, the veritable human fashion thermometer, quickly snapped up several pieces, indicating that Katrantzou’s designs were hot property; the celebrity fans have kept on coming ever since, and the brand continues to grow.

At the MyDaily event, Katrantzou revealed she is planning to launch her first pre-collection next June. She also talked about her collaborations with Topshop, the London/Milan fashion week clash and the importance of celebrity clients. Here are a few choice quotes…

On why she moved to London for love:

I was studying at Rhode Island School of Design. I did my foundation and first year in architecture. But then I met my boyfriend in Greece that summer and he said ‘I’m going to be in the UK in about one year’s time so you should go there and wait for me.’ I wasn’t really sure, but then I’ve always wanted to go to Central St Martins….I took a transfer course in textile design and as time went by I loved London.

On why she chose Central St Martins:

I was at a crossroads because I was doing textile design but more for interiors. I was either going to go to Royal College of Art and go the interior route, or go to St Martins and continue with fashion. I’d heard about the infamous MA fashion course and [course director] Louise Wilson and I thought ‘you’ve got to be taught by the best and see if there’s a future in that.’

On the Mary Katrantzou woman:

I never had someone in mind, and when I started no one was even wearing the dresses. But I had supporters like Anna Dello Russo sporting the lampshade skirts. That gave me an idea that it’s somebody within fashion who appreciates the design for its uniqueness: somebody bold; somebody intelligent; somebody I hope that is quite daring and doesn’t mind standing out.

On only wearing black clothes herself:

I do a Breton stripe too! I’m not somebody who would dress head to toe in print, but I like colourful jewellery. It’s not that I hate colour, it’s more that it’s an accessory. From a design point of view, it’s my aesthetic, but not my lifestyle.

On the importance of celebrity clients:

It’s extremely important…Having a VIP wear [one of your dresses] is the only way of building global awareness at the stage when you don’t have a budget for anything else. And so far we’ve never seen a celebrity, or any woman, wearing a Mary Katrantzou dress where I’ve thought ‘this is dreadful.’ When Keira Knightly wore the dress at the Venice Film Festival this season I would never have thought that she’s our girl, but she wore it in such an elegant way.

On her design heroes:

It’s the designers who push the boundaries of what’s fashion today. Miuccia Prada does that for me, and Balenciaga is still that, there’s always something new. And I love wearing Alaia, I think he has an amazing understanding of a woman’s body.

On designing menswear:

A friend of mine told me she thought we’d never be able to do menswear because the only person we could dress would be Elton John! This season we did two blazers based on menswear and we’ve had a lot of private orders from men, but we’re not ready to do a full blown collection.

On catwalk shows versus fashion on film:

For us the catwalk is important because there’s a lot to take in and when you see it live it has a ‘realness’ to it. Through a film it wouldn’t feel so real. There’s something about the right staging that will create an emotive response to the clothes.

On the London versus Milan fashion week schedule debate:

You always know that if you’re showing on the last day [of LFW] that a lot of the important editors will have fled. It’s something you accept. London is attracting more and more people, we’ve come a long way, the talent is here.

On collaborating with Topshop:

For me, Topshop really helped in the beginning with being able to use their [fashion week] venue and production team. Having that partnership also allows you to see and understand what the Topshop girl needs, how you are able to produce something that’s taken from your show and make it more accessible.

MyDaily also have one of Mary Katrantzou’s singature print dresses available to win – to enter the competition, see here.

MyDaily’s Highlights of the Mary Katrantzou evening

Talented young designer, Debbie Huntley

Despite the financial odds being stacked against her, recent fashion graduate Debbie Huntley has achieved what many others in her position could only dream of – setting up her own clothing label, L.2.MAE. At just 25 years old, her success could be attributed to her Northern no-nonsense attitude towards getting the job done, or her lifelong obsession with things sartorial – or probably both. She’s also extremely down-to-earth and modest about her success – a refreshing change where fashion types are concerned.

Being inspired to become a designer after watching the early 90’s BBC drama The House of Elliot, Debbie later took a course specialising in Fashion at Wilberforce College followed by a stint at Paul Smith – where she vividly remembers watching him appear on the catwalk after his show and imagining herself in that same position in years to come. Although, due to lack of funds, she was unable to accept a six-month internship with Anna Sui in New York, she went on to intern at Temperley London where she honed her pattern cutting skills, helping her to earn her a First Class BA Degree in Fashion Design with Manufacture at the University of Huddersfield.

Debbie then enrolled on a short course on how to start a fashion label at The London College of Fashion, and worked in a factory in an interiors company to fund her studies. In a lucky twist of fate, it was here that she met her future business partner, factory owner Anthony Langley, who upon noticing her drive, passion and commitment to her work, helped her set up L.2.MAE. The label takes it name from her beloved late-grandmother Lilian, and the date of her birthday on the 2^nd May.

L.2.MAE’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection, “Infused Beauty” focuses on classic, wearable pieces with intricate tailoring, in the style of 1930’s Hollywood starlets such as Rita Hayworth and Jean Harlow. With rich earthy colours and fluid silhouettes – garments are made out of the contrasting fabrics crêpe de chine and pig suede, with eye-catching results. Debbie oversees the whole process herself from pattern cutting to manufacture, proudly sourcing all of her materials from the UK (no carbon footprint or cheap labour here.) After visiting her stunning exhibition at the Future Gallery during London Fashion Week, RIH caught up with the designer to discuss her inspirations, overcoming financial hardships and how she intends to nurture future generations of designers, especially in the North of England.

The House of Elliot inspired you to become a designer; with hindsight how realistic was this?

It’s funny – some things about the show are really similar! I caught an episode which was shown on repeat the other day, where the characters [who own a couture house] are excited about getting a new client and the fact that word is spreading. I’m in a similar situation with my label L.2 MAE, so I can definitely relate to that!

Was there anything else in your childhood that influenced your eventual career choice?

It was really watching that programme – that was my earliest memory. When I was a bit older I also used to watch The Clothes Show, with Jeff Banks and Caryn Franklyn which caught my eye as well, – but I can’t remember exactly the moment when I knew it was what I wanted to do. Looking at my old exercise books from school, I used to do these little drawings of clothes in the margins – plus I always liked dressing up and playing about with clothes, so that must have had something to do with it.

The label is partially named after your grandma. Was she an inspiration in your life?

Definitely – my mum used to care for my nana so I was round her place all the time, watching the old Hollywood classics and Westerns with her. These are now heavily referenced in my collections. It’s just something I grew up with.

Are you more inspired by the starlets of the golden age of Hollywood, rather than today’s celebrities?

I really am; I love the styles of the 20′s, 30′s and 40′s. I’m constantly drawing inspiration from them, especially the cut of the garments, as everything was of a much higher quality with a focus on clean lines and elegant shapes. I’m in love with the bias-cut dresses that were typical of that era – it’s something I really want to focus on and develop within my brand. The designer Madeleine Vionnet is another influence; I really love her work.

Hollywood-inspired: the Hayworth dress

Do you think you prefer a classic style of design as opposed to the more experimental variety?

In terms of personal style, yes. I like simple cuts and draping – as designers like Chanel were the original boundary-breakers in that type of design. Saying that, I also admire the more avant-garde designers of the 80s, but I do draw inspiration from more classic designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Donna Karen and Diane von Furstenburg, who tend to revolve around a classic shape and cut as opposed to wacky creations! That’s what I want to focus on at the moment – in the spring I want to introduce classic, floral prints but currently I want to concentrate on the cut and the silhouette of the garments.

A career in fashion design can be a relentless slog. Have you always been driven and determined?

Yes, I’ve always been like that! Even after I graduated last summer, I had six weeks of free time and the boredom nearly killed me! I wanted to focus on getting a job and a business plan started. I’m one of those people who enjoys being constantly on the go, I think if you’re not like that, you’re not going to get anywhere. In the past couple of weeks we’ve done a few late nights – but not as much as I usually do. I feel like I’m not doing enough work! I’ve worked extremely hard but we’re now at the stage where everything is falling into place. I know if my label starts grow I’m going to have to delegate tasks to a team of staff, but I’ll always want a hand in the pattern cutting side of things as I’m a perfectionist! My label is definitely a labour of love – it’s not tiring to me at all, it’s doing what I love.

It’s not just a job but more like a whole way of life…?

It’s 24/7 – but I just want to experience every single aspect, I really enjoy it. It’s an adrenaline rush to see things coming together like the photo-shoot and the press launch, sorting buyers – even getting emails from potential customers – it’s just so exciting when things begin to fall into place.

Has the pressure ever got on top of you, and made you want to throw in the towel?

No not at all, I’ve really took everything in my stride. The only challenge I’ve encountered would have been in my work placement year. I worked for Paul Smith and Alice Temperley, and I could have gone to New York for six months to work for Anna Sui. But because I came from a low-income, single parent family, I didn’t get to do that and eventually had to go back up North after I ran out of finances in London. That’s been the only down side – when I couldn’t take up opportunities that were offered to me.

Is the lack of opportunities something you think is ever likely to change?

With me being based up North, one of my main concerns is that even if my label starts to grow, I’ll still have a studio located there, as it’s where I’m from and I understand how much of a struggle it is for people from my area to move down South to get work experience. Hopefully I’ll eventually be able to offer placement years to students from Northern universities who can’t afford to move to London. I want to help out future designers who are in the same situation as I was.

What advice would you give to aspiring designers?

If you really believe in yourself – keep working and working, because the hard work will eventually pay off and you will get that break in the end. I had a tiny bit of luck meeting my business partner, but he wouldn’t have gone into business with me if he didn’t notice how hard I worked while I was employed by him.

What’s been the highlight of your fashion career so far?

After my event during London Fashion Week I read a couple of press clippings that got back to me after the show – it was great to hear people calling me a new designer to watch out for and saying they were excited to see what I’ll do for next season – it feels like all my hard work has paid off! It is really nice to have family and friends so proud and excited for you, and even nicer to hear people in the industry wanting to interview and write about you – it’s a real boost of confidence.

L.2 MAE's chic Ava and Morris dresses

Where do you see yourself in five years time?

I want my brand to eventually go global, but in five years time, I definitely want to have one stand alone flagship store in London. I would like to branch out into accessories – so hopefully if I take it slowly that’s where I would like to see the brand.

Is it important to keep everything in the UK, rather than outsourcing labour and materials?

Yes, you get so much better quality in the UK, although it is slightly pricier to produce here. But at the end of the day, the standard in the clothes speaks for itself. I don’t have the time or the money to jump on a plane to China or Turkey every week – I can just pop down the road to see my manufacturer! It’s so much more beneficial in the long run, plus a lot of people like seeing something that is “made in England.” If more companies worked this way, we’d create a better industry and a lot more jobs too.

If you weren’t designing clothes what would you be doing?

I honestly can’t think of anything – I couldn’t see myself not being involved in fashion in one way or another, it’s a difficult question really. I love what I do so much!

Do you consider yourself British or European?

I’m happy being either!

Favourite European city?

I’ve been to Paris a few times – I’d say it was my favourite city if just for its iconic designers! Saying that I would like to travel more, and get more inspiration from other countries.

What’s the best advice you’ve been given?

Possibly that hard work pays off so never give up and keep trying (which is very relevant in the fashion world.)

What are you listening to at the moment?

My music taste is quite eclectic, so at the moment it’s Miles Kane, Ed Shearing, Otis Reading and Friendly Fires.

Favourite book?

The Assassination of Marilyn Monroe – an amazing insight and a heart-breaking story too.

And lastly… can you run in heels?

Of course… I just hope they’re a pair of Louboutins one day!

For more information on L.2.MAE, visit l2mae.com

L.2.Mae’s debut London Fashion week presentation for SS/12 at The Future Gallery

And as if it weren’t cool enough to have set up a label based on political protest, the handbags themselves are named after cocktails. Looking for a stylish sleeve for your iPad? You’ll need the Bellini. An extra large tote for carrying round everday essentials? Try a Cuba Libre. And when it comes to clutches, we’d recommend the Margarita or perhaps the Negroni. The gold stamp detailing on the handbags is equally fabulous – eye-catching embellishments include elephants, lizards, skulls and octopi.

Even better than the crazy cocktail names and unusual golden adornments? The bags can be totally customised, and are available in a dazzling selection of colours and fabrics. Is it too early to start writing a letter to Santa explaing how good we’ve been this year?

For more information and for stockists, see the Sous Les Pavés website.

The Killer Detail: a selection of Sous Les Pavés' sublime handbags, clutches and totes - all designed and handmade in Paris

Hussein Chalayan's multi-functional dress

Born in Nicosia, a town in Turkish Cyprus, in 1970, Hussein Chalayan gained British citizenship at the age of 12 when his family relocated to England. Enrolled at a boarding school in Highgate, London, a national diploma in fashion followed, before he was accepted at Central Saint Martin’s, the now legendary college that also tutored Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. It was here that Chalayan first began experimenting with unorthodox design techniques. In search of an aged fabric effect, he buried his entire graduate collection of silk dresses before exhuming them for his final show. Unheard of for a student designer, the entire collection was bought and displayed by Brown’s boutique.

Buried dresses were just the beginning. Over the next twenty years, Chalayan created some of the most controversial and visually astounding womenswear in fashion history. Most often cited in this ilk is the finale of his fashion show in 2000 where the functionality of clothing was taken to another level: a model walked on stage, stepped into the middle of a round coffee table and unfurled it to create a conical skirt. Another experiment in interactive clothing resulted in a dress made of paper that folded neatly into an envelope complete with red and blue airmail stripes. I like to think that Chalayan came up with this idea when he was thinking of ways to really push the envelope.

Clearly, he has a sense of humour, but Chalayan’s work has elicited more than mere amusement throughout the years. Upon seeing the traditional Iranian chador robe presented in a variety of lengths on nude models, audience members at his spring 1998 show were reportedly moved to tears; the collection examined the oppression of Muslim women. Naturally, Lady Gaga, self-professed vanguard of avant-garde, chose Chalayan to create the fiberglass ‘womb’ she was encased in as she arrived at the 2011 Grammy Awards.

But neither controversy nor critical acclaim necessarily correlate positively with thriving sales and the history of brand Chalayan (Hussein was dropped in June this year; the company now operates under the sole moniker) has been a chequered one financially speaking. In 2001, the same year that he was awarded British Designer of the Year for the second time, Chalayan was forced to close his business. Having relocated from London to present at Paris Fashion Week, his contract as creative consultant at American label Tse – the first of many consulting roles – had been cancelled after a five year tenure and he had racked up debts of £250,000. Staging a swift comeback, Italian manufacturer Gibo saved the company from bankruptcy and shortly after Chalayan was appointed fashion director as British jeweller Asprey. Later he created a range for Topshop and he remains creative director for Puma. Perhaps signaling the end of Chalayan’s financial woes the sportswear brand has bought a majority stake in the Chalayan label.

That’s not to say that Chalayan has sold out. While developing that essential business savvy he has continued to innovate season on season. That Chalayan’s back catalogue has been the subject of virtually as many museum exhibitions as he has produced collections points to it cultural significance. The latest of these is Hussein Chalayan: Fashion Narrativesat Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris, open until November.

Launched at New York Fashion Week in September 2011, Hussein Chalayan's Grey Line is capsule collection with a modern look

‘His work is as close to contemporary art as you can get,’ art critic Andrew Graham-Dixon claimed in a documentary for BBC2’s The Culture Show in 2006. Chalayan himself concurs in his self-titled monograph, published last month: ‘I’ve finally come around to thinking of myself as an artist who happens to use clothes as my main medium.’

While his designs span a conceptual gamut that includes everything from technology and architecture to socio-anthropology and gender politics, Chalayan places no burden of intellectual expectation on the wearer of his clothes. Refreshingly unpretentious, he writes ‘as with great art and films, whose concepts can be obscure but still appreciated, my designs don’t need to be understood in order to be enjoyed as garments.’ The latest addition to that body of work is Chalayan Grey Line, a capsule collection of simple contemporary pieces. Launched recently at New York Fashion Week, the new range is intended to be ‘a wardrobe with a modern relevance.’

It’s a timely reminder that abstract concepts and tomorrow’s world technologies aren’t the only things at which Chalayan excels. Ultimately, unfolding table skirts may be a bit too eccentric for the average shopper, but if they are, Chalayan doesn’t mind. ‘If the end result of my work is a range of nice dresses, I don’t really mind if the consumer understands it or not.’

Hussein Chalayan’s Autumn/Winter 2011-12 collection

A sexy, bold and modern take on knitwear

Who is She?

Hailing from the Ukraine, Ekaterina Kukhareva studied textiles at Central Saint Martin’s, specialising in knitwear. Since then she has continued to explore collections using different knitting techniques, from crochet and macramé to knitted embellishments incorporating fringing and beading, using yarns sourced from all over the world. She set up her eponymous label in 2010 and has since really made her mark, with her masterful craftsmanship and innovative techniques. Most recently, she exhibited at Vauxhall Fashion Scout as part of London Fashion Week.

The Look?

Ekaterina is inspired by history and by the cultural heritage of her homeland, and past muses have included numerous queens and their ornate styles; reinventing the past for the modern, fashion-forward woman of today. The Russian Tsaritsa collection for Autumn/Winter 2011 is an opulent, unashamedly luxurious selection of glamorous eveningwear, all made with Ekaterina’s intricate knitted fabrics. The colour palette used is soft and sensual yet bold, with monochromatic and metallic tones offset by deep reds, pinks and browns, although the focus is really on the textures of the hand-worked woven fabrics. The collection uses machine knitting combined with lace, lurex and jacquard for an extravagant, truly regal finish. Ekaterina’s cutting techniques mean that the collection is far removed from chunky, cosy preconceived concepts associated with knitwear – there’s a light, romantic feel to the dresses and separates. The Russian Tsaritsa muse is sexy, powerful and very feminine.

The Buzz?

Ekaterina Kukhareva’s garments have been featured in shoots for Dossier magazine, Fashion156 and The Contributing Editor, while Ballad Of interviewed the designer about her A/W 2011 collection.

Where to Buy?

Ekaterina’s collection is available to buy online at Not Just a Label, Wolf & Badger and ASOS Marketplace.

For more information, see Ekaterina Kukhareva’s website. You can also follow on Twitter @EKukhareva, and become a fan on Facebook.

Kukhareva's Russian Tsarista collection for A/W 2011 is an opulent, unashamedly luxurious selection of glamorous eveningwear...

Silken Favours' chic Elegant Equine scarf

Who is she?

Vicki Murdoch launched Silken Favours after studying textiles at the prestigious Chelsea Art School, specialising in digital print. In 2009 she decided to set up her own label, having received commissions for her bespoke illustrated scarves – and so, Silken Favours took shape.

The Aberdeen-born designer’s career started out quite differently in fashion though; she worked as a model for five years, travelling and living all over the world. Vicki attended Liberty’s ‘Best of British’ open call for designers in April 2011 and her whimsical silk scarves are now stocked at the iconic department store.

The Look?

Silken Favours takes the traditional silk square and adds highly detailed, beautifully drawn illustrations with a touch of very British eccentricity. The Heart Collection scarves feature ‘Precious Pussies’, ‘Elegant Equines’ and ‘Succulent Strawberries’ mainly in pale pastel tones, the sort of unusual item that really draws the eye, thanks to Vicki’s deft, talented pen, and wonderfully wide-ranging imagination.  All of the scarves are inspired by nature – Vicki’s first ever scarf was a gift for her parents illustrated with images of birds in their garden. Knotted as a stylish headband, adorning a handbag or simply worn around the neck, the scarves will inject a hint of quirky elegance into even the most basic of ensembles.  And if they weren’t fun and playful enough already, each scarf has its own adorable poem too:

Horses in motion are simply sublime,
Galloping wildly or trotting in line.
Still, they may have less allure,
But it makes mounting more secure.

If you’re looking for a special gift for a friend or family member, Silken Favours scarves definitely fit the bill. Although we suspect that you may feel the need to invest in one for yourself too!

The Buzz?

Silken Favours has had a stratospheric rise to popularity since Liberty’s Open Call, and Silken Favours’ scarves have been the subject of features on Elle UK, Grazia Daily, AnOther magazine and Fashion156. And Vicki plans to expand the brand further – according to an interview with Decor8 she “would love to design for interiors.”

Where to Buy?

Silken Favours are stocked exclusively at Liberty (in London and online), and you can also order your own bespoke scarf on Silken Favours’ website.

Future fashion classics: Exquisite illustrations of 'Butterflies and Beasticles', 'Succulent Strawberries' and 'Precious Pussies'

From the A/W 2011 'Storm' collection

Who are they?

The enigmatically-titled Tramp in Disguise was set up by Finnish-born designer Sini Moilanen. Moilanen achieved an undergraduate degree in fashion textile design at the University of Brighton before stuying for an MA at the Royal College of Art in London, specialising in knitwear design. She set up her label in 2010 and showed her debut collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week.

The Look?

Not for the faint of fashion; if you generally opt for simple pieces in neutral tones, stop reading now! Moilanen’s designs feature bold, striking prints that ensure a modern, fashion-forward look. Her A/W 2011 collection is entitled ‘Storm’ and brings together a selection of sleek, sophisticated pieces in bright tones that throw the dull wintry colour palette rulebook straight out of the window; think flared skirts, 1960′s-style minidresses and dramatic maxi-lengths in rainbow hues from acid bright turquoise and yellow to deep cobalt and fuschia. There are also striking knits, beautifully-tailored trousers and vintage-inspired coats sans print, which offset the patterns items to perfection.

The Buzz?

British musician Kate Nash has been spotted sporting one of Tramp in Disguise’s print dresses in an eye-catching aqua and lemon-toned print, and singer Charli XCX was photographed for an editorial shoot in Notion magazine’s July issue wearing a TID design. The collection has also featured on the pages of edgy fashion magazines including Fiasco, Ligature and Recognize. And we think the best is yet to come from this young, imaginative designer…

Where to Buy?

Tramp in Disguise is available online from Not Just a Label, and at Beyond the Valley boutique in London.

For more information, see the Tramp in Disguise website, or follow the latest news on the brand’s Facebook page.

Finnish designer Sini Moilanen's design aesthetic is all about bold, striking prints that ensure a modern, fashion-forward look...

The Kooples

Catering to both men and women, The Kooples was established in Paris in 2008 by brothers Alexandre, Laurent and Raphaël Elicha. No strangers to world of high street fashion (their father established Comptoir des Cotonniers), the brothers target the younger, fashion-forward client, male or female, with accessibly priced ready-to-wear designs.

Proposing a unique fusion of slightly androgynous street chic elegance, rock-‘n-roll touches, and traditional British tailoring, The Kooples is a bit of David Bowie crossed with YSL. Collaborations with Norton & Sons of Savile Row and The Great Frog Carnaby Street assure The Kooples claim to an interesting mix of Parisian elegance, tried-and-true tailoring, and hip, Brit-rock infusions with unexpected skull-and-cross bone detailing.

Playing on its name (“kooples”, pronounced koo-pleuh, is French slang for “couples”), the brand offers a shopping experience for two; pairs can browse together while choosing from pieces that coordinate, whether from the masculine or feminine collection, and some unisex accessories. This also extends to their advertising campaigns, as all feature real-life couples of varied ages and races.

At present, The Kooples counts over 100 locations in France, Spain and the U.K, and is sold at high-end department stores including Selfridges in London, and select Galleries Lafayette in France.

Meet The Kooples’ Mikaela & Johan

Les Petites

Inspired perhaps by being the smallest child in her family, and/or the “little” world of French fashion, Les Petites founder Isabelle Bénichou called her brand just that. But the name of the brand says nothing about the variety of pieces offered in a Les Petites boutique. On the contrary, prettily arranged by colour, the brand offers a look for any occasion, from casual cashmere separates, to fancy cocktail dresses, and ultra sexy sequinned tops or silk rompers, perfect for a night out on the town.

The range of pieces doesn’t detract from the brand’s quality: the line features natural and luxurious fabrics including wool, silk, and linen. And to add to the French touch already incorporated in the styling, all pieces are Made in France (save the leathers, which are manufactured in Italy).

Available in six countries in Europe, including at two locations in London, and on their e-store, the little bit of style à la Française you’ve always wanted isn’t that far away.

Vibrant black and white images from the Les Petites lookbook for Spring/Summer 2011 with British It-Model Edie Campbell

Maje

With the opening of its first Parisian boutique, Maje was started in 2004 by Moroccan-born designer Judith Milgrom. The brand has since caught the eye of the French style crowd including Marion Cotillard and Vanessa Paradis.

The Maje look is an interesting mix of bohemian and nonchalant sexy, with pieces ranging from jeans and bomber jackets to leather minis, silk tops with unique silhouettes or cutouts, and short party dresses. The brand also boasts a range of must-have accessories from cool clutches to printed scarves, and shoes. Adding to this slightly artsy, bohemian vibe, the brand has begun to sponsor independent, up-and-coming French Folk/Rock musicians by featuring their work on CDs sold exclusively in-store.

With boutiques in 19 countries throughout Europe, Asia, and the Middle East, bohemian French fashion has certainly made it big.

Vanessa Traina; the fashion icon is the current face and ambassador of Maje - "naturally elegant, both refined and modern"

Zadig et Voltaire

Founder Thierry Gillier claims that his brand’s philosophy rests on the idea of a “new luxury”; high-end styles and fabrics but for a new type of customer. In fact, for almost 15 years, Zadig et Voltaire have been offering luxe pieces for a very targeted clientele: hip, rock-and-roll trendsetters who prefer a bit of grunge thrown in with their cashmere and leather.

This style, in its unique slouchy, studded, sometimes embellished with crystals in the shape of wings, and often paired with chunky combat-style boots, creates a “could care less” chic that has secured worldwide popularity for the brand. Shoppers can expect simple cashmere sweaters with cool details, fitted blazers, and a variety of denim in a range of colours and sizes. And just to play around with that rock vibe, skull detail is thrown in from time to time, quite unexpectedly, on various separates.

Sexy, tough, young and always a little fun: Zadig & Voltaire's signature "new luxury" with a healthy dose of grunge style

ba&sh

Childhood friends Barbara Boccara & Sharon Krief started their line of slightly breezy, quite romantic and very chic pieces in 2003, aiming to recreate for ba&sh customers what they see as their ideal wardrobe. The brand doesn’t follow a set style or specifically identifiable look collection after collection, but rather consistently incorporates typical ba&sh staples, including cute prints and luxurious fabrics such as cashmere, silks and cotton voile.

What the ba&sh shopper can expect is simply chic style so typical of the French; a style that looks as though it’s thrown together but is perfect in all its haphazardness. The plain, yet so perfect T-shirt, rolled up skinny jeans, and flowy maxi dresses from ba&sh allow for effortless chic that is typically Parisian.

With a series of boutiques in France, stands at large department stores, and recent collaborations with French high street shoe shop, André, it’s quite easy to secure a bit of breezy Parisian style.

Inspirations for the ba&sh collection for this season…

Comptoir des Cotonniers

This brand, established in 1995 and now known virtually world wide, features elegantly simple lines in crisp tonal colors, such as grey, beige, and black, along with unique feminine prints. Modern yet classic, trendy yet timeless, Comptoir des Cotonniers adheres to its principle of, above all else, creating a natural and refined feminine silhouette. Styles are quite easy and relaxed; well-cut denim, styled trenches, cool knits, and unique blouses are mixed and matched and fit seamlessly into your wardrobe.

This regard for the naturally beautiful, long-lasting silhouette is tied to the brand’s underlying respect for women. Not only do collections boast coordinating pieces for women and young girls, but all advertising campaigns feature real mother and daughter duos. The brand works to promote true authenticity, whether it be in creating and offering a foolproof elegant look, or advertising its pieces on the most natural female pair: the mother and daughter.

With boutiques across Europe, Asia and the United States, Comptoir des Cotonniers helps any woman to achieve that special, natural, true chic that is oh so French.

The Spring/Summer collection; inspired by Saint Tropez, Ibiza, Ponza, Goa, Patmos, friends and going down to the Mediterranean

An Tsemaye Binitie orange bodycon dress

Who is he?

Born in Lagos and bred in Nigeria’s mid-west, Tsemaye Binitie moved to the UK from Africa when he was 13 with his family. Inspired by “Versace 80′s madness” he had already decided at the age of three on a career in the rag trade.

After school he attended Kingston University, interned for John Richmond (the Italian designer also studied at Kingston) and worked for Stella McCartney. Binitie also racked up some time as a personal shopper with Burberry before launching his eponymous label in 2009.

The Look?

For his A/W 11 range, Binitie drew inspiration from his mother, and from his native country. Named ‘Sade’, after his beloved mum, the range from the designer’s eponymous label was created around his memories of her and of his African background.

“I took her from the early eighties and made her more relevant to today,” explains Binitie. “She was going on a trip to Paris, packing pieces that made her feel distinctly Nigerian but which allowed her to blend seamlessly into European society. For the first time I focused on my heritage, taking inspiration from our use of vibrant colours, texture and prints in our attire.”

The result is a line boasting Binitie’s signature structured bodycon dresses and separates in a dark palette infused with shots of colour. Textured Italian wools, cashmere and silk are mixed with Guipure lace and leather. “My collections almost always feature structured pieces;  I am very into panelling and symmetry so I put this always into what I do. I think that as a designer we have to challenge ourselves and push new boundaries, so watch this space.”

The Buzz?

In March, Arise magazine chose Binitie to be part of its fashion week in Lagos. The East London-based designer is heading to the Big Apple next, where he has just been chosen to show at Lincoln Park during New York Fashion Week in September.

Where to Buy?

Binitie is currently stocked at Artist Springboard and at Laundrette boutique in London. For more information, see Tsemaye Binitie’s website.

Tsemaye Binitie's Sade collection for Autumn/Winter 2011: inspired by his his memories of his mum and of his African background

A draped vest from the S/S '11 collection

Who Are They?

Harriet Barford and Polly Wilkinson studied together at the University of Brighton, although their friendship pre-dates their studies; they initially met “in a West London hospital on April 20th 1985,” according to their blog Harry and Polly. They both graduated in 2008 and after working for print creator Fleet Bigwood and Irish designer John Rocha respectively, the pair set up their label Draw In Light in late 2009. Shortly after this, they went on to win a covetable place on Liberty of London’s sales floor, via the department stores’ ‘Best of British’ open call; an initiative which enables young designers to show their wares to an expert team including fashion buyers such as Yasmin Sewell as well as the British Fashion Council’s emerging talent ambassador, Sarah Mower.

The Look?

Having trained as silkscreen printers, understated, painterly prints provide a starting point for each piece in the Draw In Light collection, with an ethos of “everything is unique” underpinning the label. And so it’s no surprise then, that every item is one-of-a-kind; created using free hand silk screen printing in the pair’s studio in Whitechapel, East London. It might seem that the free flow of their prints also inspires the fluid shapes of some of the garments Harry and Polly create too; their Spring/Summer 2011 collection ‘Open Air’ features loose, gently draping vests and tees in a palette of smoky greys and stormy blues with splashes of pale apricot and languid brushstrokes of faded coral. Body-conscious maxi skirts and dresses provide the foundation for what might be a pitch-perfect wardrobe for sitting at a beach bar and watching the sun dip over the horizon, or spending a relaxed day lounging in the park. Team with simple separates and unfussy accessories to let the individual, modern aspect of Draw In Light’s collection truly shine through. The brand’s offerings for Autumn/Winter 2011 and Pre-Spring/Summer 2011 are similarly inspired.

The Buzz?

Draw In Light showcased this season’s collection at the London Fashion Week exhibition at Somerset House in February 2011, ensuring their place on the style radar of ones to watch. Seeing as she selected them to go on sale in Liberty, it’s perhaps not too surprising that Yasmin Sewell hand-picked Draw In Light’s oversized tee as one of must-have items (“a creative take on a basic”) in the New York Times’ T Magazine Hot List. However, British Vogue also featured the pair in their July issue, with journalist Harriet Quick recommending their ethereal prints.

Where to Buy

Draw In Light is available to buy online at Young British Designers and offline at C See boutique in Surrey and at Liberty of London.

More information is available on the Draw In Light website. You can also find out the latest news about the brand on their Facebook page and follow on Twitter @drawinlight.

Draped separates in a palette of smoky greys and stormy blues with splashes of pale apricot and laguid brushstrokes of faded coral