Historic designs from Carven couture

Who are they?

Post World War II France was a hive of up-and-coming couturiers ready to sweep its demi-mondelles up into a fury of escapist fashions and into a new future, free from political turbulence. Dior’s New Look famously propelled scrimping and saving fashion into a new era of decadence, grabbing at the waistlines of elegant Parisiennes and flaunting a full-skirted silhouette that best suited those already blessed with  curves.

However, Madame Carmen de Tommaso, an interior designer by trade (who stood at a mere 5ft 1”) realised that this imposing silhouette rarely flattered the petite women amongst France’s couture clientele. Madame Carven was famously told by her own mother, “You will never be elegant”, and she seemingly battled against this diktat throughout her career. Madame Carven created the House of Carven in 1945; ostentation was disregarded in favour of democratic style that suited all female forms and which captured the spontaneity and promise of modern life in a recovering world.

Nonetheless, Carven was still a couture house, and therefore offered luxury clothing; frequently attracting many a member of European royalty to its atelier on the Champs Elysées. Over the course of many years Madame Carven launched several perfumes affiliated to the label, designed leisure wear, golf wear and was often seen driving an extremely elegant Fiat convertible; creating an all round brand image for the petite French woman that was just as fashionable as those of statuesque beauty. Carven was readily accepted into the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, but eventually ventured into ready to wear in 1958. The designer was renowned for dressing trend-setting teens rather than the usual mature customer of couture, and also became known for designing air hostess uniforms for Air France in the late 1960’s.

With the gradual demise of the couture industry, Carven ceased couture production in the early 1990’s, and Madame Carven finally hung up her scissors in 1995 at the impressive age of 84; allowing for the business to focus on ready to wear collections under the direction of Edward Archour and then Pascal Millet in 2001. In 2009, Guillaume Henry (of Givenchy design heritage) came to the helm of the label, only to whip up a storm at his Autumn/Winter 2010 show, where editors began to whisper of the long awaited rebirth of true, Parisian style and the messiah that resuscitated Carven’s sleeping beauty.

The Look

One of the most radiant pieces of Carven’s earlier collections was a green and white stripe summer dress, named ‘Ma Griffe’ or ‘My Label’. Not only did this garment spawn the name for Carven’s most famous perfume, but it also created the signature colour scheme of the brand. Every collection that followed contained a green and white motif, whether it were the striped skirt that graced the 1947 collection (which had a draped theatrical curtain that framed a hand painted Paris street scene!) or the fresh green gingham fabric found in the 1949 Africa inspired collection.

Carven's current ad campaign

Madame Carven was heralded as the most well travelled of couturiers of the era, as she loved to take inspiration from other far flung cultures and work them into French style, as seen in her Chinese themed ‘Lantern Collection’. Egyptian and Aztec inspired styles also featured in her designs, along with an entire collection inspired by the Spanish master of art, Velasquez, in 1959. The house became known for a style that was playful, innovative and artistic, with details such as trompe l’oeil designs and exquisite trimmings adding an elegant, decorative quality to the collection. Lace collars and cuffs, embroidery and beading were intended to emphasise the delicacy of the petite form without swamping the figure.

The Buzz

Following the Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, which captured a perfect balance between sexy and stylish (oh so French) Carven has caught the attention of the global fashion community. Continuing to preserve the youthful ethos Madame Carven aspired to half a century ago, the brand appeals to Europe’s hippest crowd- those who wish to exude a casual elegance without buying into try-hard style.

Henry is one of fashion’s men of the moment in terms of ready to wear design with mass market appeal; and he is endeavouring to regenerate the brand rather than alter it. A clever co-branding event with Didier Ludot has helped to raise Carven’s profile, with a pop up boutique established at Ludot’s store between the 6th and 31st August. The shop showcased vintage Carven pieces, and offered a close up look at the Autumn/Winter collection which stopped the heart of many a fashion editor.

Where to Buy?

Key pieces are available at Net-a-porter, and My Theresa. Check the brand’s website for details of international stockists.

Carven's subtle, yet sexy collection for Autumn/Winter 2010

Feminine tailoring and soft drapery

Who is she?

Masha Ma completed an MA in Women’s Wear at Central Saint Martins in 2008, with her final collection being selected for show at London Fashion Week, and subsequently bought by B Store.  Masha Ma was a finalist in numerous design competitions including the the Puma CSM Bursary Award and Fashion Fringe 2009. In September 2009 she won the Mouse Ji Best International Innovation Award in the 2009 CCDC China Contemporary Design Contest. This year Masha will present her latest collection during Paris Fashion Week at the Palais du Louvre, as well as a debut show at London Fashion Week’s Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

The Look

Masha Ma describes her beautifully-crafted pieces as ‘semi-couture, with designs that are bold yet intricate and focus on the unravelling of the female form.’ Her Autumn/Winter 2010 collection combines tailoring and drapery to create a dramatic silhouette that fuses vintage influences with fashion forward shapes. Masha Ma’s pieces are meant for strong, confident women who appreciate elegant, modern style.

It’s a collection of contrasts and exquisite finition: a nipped-in waist on an intricate maxi-dress;  a structured yet voluminous three-quarter length coat with boldly-positioned zipper; a white collar and cape with black buckle detail. Despite the powerful pieces, much of the collection is very wearable; there’s a soft, sensual semi-sheer blouse with delicate print and some achingly chic pencil skirts that are oh-so-feminine and truly celebrate the female body. The colour palette of black, white, café au lait, old gold and blue-grey is restrained and refined; emanating modernity and confidence – these are the real investment pieces.

The Buzz?

Masha’s designs have attracted the attention of publications such as Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Another Magazine, Cosmopolitan, L’Officiel and Pop. Ahead of London Fashion Week, the hype is growing: fashion blogger Park & Cube recently paid a visit to the Masha Ma studios; Amelia’s Magazine has interviewed Masha herself and we’ll be featuring the collection in an upcoming shoot.

Where to Buy?

Masha’s current collection isn’t available to buy, so you’ll have to content yourself with drooling over the pics!

For more information, see the Masha Ma website. You can also become a fan on Facebook, follow on Twitter @MASHA_MA and for all the latest news, see the Masha Ma blog.

The many faces of Masha Ma...

Monochromatic trompe l'oeil prints

Who is She?

An expert in print and texture, Paris-based Dane, Anne Marie Skjoldager Jensen graduated in 2009 with an MA in Fashion from The Danish Design School (DKDS).  Skoldager Jensen had previously completed a degree at DKDS in Textile Design in 2007.  Her resume also includes studying Fashion Design with Gaspard Yurkievich at the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

She has complemented her impressive education with internships at Bernhard Willhelm and John Galliano.  Her life-long love of fashion and textiles is inspired by ‘many things ranging from architecture, literature, travels, to people whom I admire.’

The Look

Skoldager Jensen’s debut collection ‘One eye laughing, the other crying’ combines beautifully executed prints and cuts with the fantastical and surrealist.  Intended to reflect Franz Kafka’s Up in the Gallery, the playful pieces reflect her love of colour and shape.

Skoldager Jensen pushes the boundaries of creative expression, bringing imagination to life with her trompe l’oeil prints and intricate origami-esque designs.  The ethereal creations retain the dreamlike quality of her whimsical illustrations.  Fantasy and reality merge as printed eyes spread off walls on to garments, and giant chiffon lips drift across a strapless mini.  Jensen’s minimalist colour selections lend a continuity to her collection as she plays with proportion and shape.  With each unique design, Jensen invites us to step through her very own looking-glass, transporting us to a fancy-dress-box world, where paintings come alive and imagination rules.

The Buzz

Skoldager Jensen’s designs were photographed by Mark Gong and featured as an ‘Emerging Talent’, in the 2010 issue  of Surface Magazine.  Her fresh and original take on surrealism within the fashion landscape has garnered her a niche following as her idiosyncratic pieces capture the imagination of trend sites TrendLand and Trend Hunter, and numerous bloggers including Fashion156, Spot on Textiles and The Fashion Medley.

Skoldager Jensen was shortlisted for the prestigious ‘createeurope 2009’ and showed her collection in Berlin in Autumn 2009.  She has also designed clothes for the New York-based singer Princess Superstar and Danish singers Susanne Dahn-Leach and Aura Diode.  With ambitions to work for one of the ‘major fashion houses’ and internships at John Galliano and Bernard Willhelm already under her belt, she looks set to take the fashion world by storm.  Watch this space.

Where to Buy

Skoldager Jensen’s first collection is not available to buy, although she has ambitions to develop some basic pieces for sale.  For more information please contact the designer at contact@amskoldager.com or visit her website.

Anne Marie Skjoldager Jensen's debut collection: ‘One eye laughing, the other crying’

One of Budroni's C+C bags in situ

Who is he?

After studying fashion design in Milan, Carlo Budroni spent time in the Italian fashion capital working for big labels such as Trussardi and Max Mara.  He actually founded his ‘C+C’ line there in 1999.  However, after the hustle and bustle of the high fashion world, Budroni brought his handbags to Cagliari, perhaps drawn back to the sun, the sand, and the culture of his native Sardinia.  He opened his tiny boutique three years ago on via San Domenico, a quaint cobbled street in the historic part of the city.

The store is sparsely decorated with only a few pieces of hip vintage furniture and simple wooden shelving, allowing the eye to easily admire his bright fabric handbags that hang on twine from the ceiling, or that are perched every-which-way amidst the retro décor.  Budroni hand-makes all of his pieces in this little boutique; his atelier separated from the shop by a white stone arch, with his sewing machine and books of fabric clearly visible to patrons.

The Look

Budroni’s designs are perhaps first notable for his choice of fabrics, as he works with a variety of materials, both traditional and more unique. His use of orbace is quite unique and ties his pieces to his native island; it’s a Sardinian waterproof wool, historically used for clothing worn by farmers and later in the production of military uniforms.  By mixing this traditional material with more conventional fabrics such as cotton, linen, and denim, Budroni subtly sews in a little bit of Sardinia into each of his pieces.

However traditional orbace might be, C+C offers a modern, contemporary aesthetic; shapes are fashion-forward in form and volume – think elegant hobos, unexpected triangular shoulder bags, and practical rectangular messenger bags.

In keeping with the avant-garde vibe, other pieces channel pop art designs and  feature funky geometric appliqués or hand-painted images, some of which reference Sardinia (suns with haphazard rays, cacti and even the Sardinian flag).  Budroni also gives a nod to green fashion by constructing or trimming in recycled materials including PVC, jute, and vintage fabrics..

And Budroni’s talents don’t stop at handbags; he also creates made-to-measure men’s ties and terracotta buttons, necklaces, vases and platters.  He recently launched a series of graphic tees, as part of a new line that also includes some of his bags, called ‘Pelle Salata’ (Salty Skin).  Featuring silk-screen drawings by Budroni, similar to certain appliqués from his bags, the tees are inspired by Sardinia.

A view of Budroni’s funky shop and atelier

The Buzz

C+C has been featured in various travel guides and the in Italian press, including in the Corriere della Sera and in EasyJet’s in-flight magazine, Traveller, as a must-see and must-do for the fashion-inspired tourist in Cagliari.  Budroni’s work was also highlighted by Sardegna Ricerche, a public agency that promotes local artisans, design creativity, and the production of textiles and accessories on Sardinia.  I would have to agree that C+C is most definitely a not-to-be-missed address for shoppers seeking chic with a uniquely Sardinian twist.

Where to Buy?

If you are interested in securing a piece designed by Budroni, his wares can be made to order or are available in store.   For more information about C+C, Pelle Salata, and Budroni’s boutique, visit his website.

Tel: + 39 070 234 1128

Mouillé's fringed 'Montica' one-piece

Who are they?

Partners Abhijeet Ajjan and Sarah Turner realised there was a potential gap in the market for a beachwear company providing exclusive swimwear in super luxe fabrics, and their idea became reality with the launch of Mouillé in 2008.

Sarah is the design element of the duo, having studied fashion design at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology in Australia, undertaken a string of placements with luxury womenswear labels, worked in retail and taken part in numerous fashion shows. Her fiancé and partner Abhijeet brings commercial nous to the table, with a degree in hotel management and in-depth knowledge of the industry.  Sarah’s passion for French culture and the South of France led to them choosing ‘Mouillé’ as the brand name, meaning ‘wet’ or ‘moist’ in French.

The Look

Mouillé takes basic one-pieces and bikinis in luxury fabrics and adds ultra feminine details which mean that their designs really stand out and flatter the figure. According to Sarah, the current collection (which is their first) was inspired by texture, geometry and the ‘new sense of being feminine’.

Swimwear showcases on-trend fringing and tribal beading, quirky prints and sexy cut-outs. And they’re multi-funcational too; the assymetric Naomi one-piece has a fun frilled neckline and could easily be worn as part of an evening ensemble. There’s a mix of hues from pale pinky nude to deep, vibrant fuschia and intense peacock blue; like the designs themselves, the colour palette offers something a little different to what we’re used to seeing poolside. Our favourites have to be the super pretty Multi-Plumes bikini and the  ‘Kolka’ swimsuit with tie sides and unusual placements prints. “I love beach culture. It’s so fun, fresh and colourful. I believe there is a huge market for luxury beachwear, especially as people are starting to travel more and explore their horizons” says Sarah.

The Buzz?

Although relative newcomers to the fashion scene Mouille have garnered an impressive following within the industry with a number of glossy magazines and fashion websites featuring the brand : Online fashion bible  Vogue.com mentioned Mouillé swimwear on their June Shopping List and Harpers Bazaar online named the brand’s ‘Poiret’ one-piece as their Weekend Fashion Fix. Mouillé’s swimwear lends itself well to fashion-forward editorials, and has featured in Grazia, Easy Living and ASOS magazine, to name but a few.

They’re aiming high. According to Abhijeet: “We have high ambitions for Mouillé. We know that it will take a lot of hard work, determination and patience but we both believe in it so much.” It is this determination that will see Mouillé taking part this September in Mode City in Paris: the world’s leading trade fair for swimwear and summer lingerie. The brand will be showing off their collection for Summer 2011, entitled ‘Falling Through The Cracks’  alongside other emerging luxury designer swimwear and lingerie labels. This summer might be drawing to a close, but we can’t wait to see their ideas for next year!

Where to Buy

Mouillé is available to buy online at ASOS, Elle Passions and Zodee.

For more information about Mouillé, see the brand’s website. You can also check out their blog and follow Mouillé on Twitter @MouilleSwimear.

Sita Murt's runway collection for 2010

Who is She?

Sita Murt was born in 1946 in Barcelona, the third generation of a family involved in textiles, and studied at Escola de Disseny Textil de Sarrià. When Murt lost her husband prematurely in 1984, she suddenly found herself forced to take the reins of his fashion business. The brand name was changed from Esteve to Sita Murt and her fashion identity was born. With the company headquarters still in Barcelona, it continues to be very much a family business; her children all have an active role in the company.

What’s the Buzz?

Sita Murt has been featured in various magazines across Europe including Vogue Espaňa. The brand started out by showing at La Pasarela Gaudi in Barcelona, but these days Murt often shows at Cibeles Fashion Week in Madrid. Some of her pieces were used in the Almodóvar film, Vicky Cristina Barcelona with Penelope Cruz and Spanish actress Victoria Abril is an ambassador for the brand. Murt is known for her hard work and has a notable reputation in Spain, particularly in Barcelona. The brand is synonymous with Spanish innovation, sophistication and originality, particularly when it comes to her maxi-jackets which feature every season in different ways.

The Look

Whatever the season, Sita Murt covers almost every wardrobe eventuality. The Sita Murt woman is young, fun-loving and knows her figure and dresses to her advantage. Murt plays with volumes and texture and uses fine, natural materials in her designs. Each piece reflects the creative personality of the designer herself, and Murt is particularly known for her work with knitwear.

This season, the look is feminine and light with pastels and delicate fabrics dominating the S/S 2010 collection. Textured pretty dresses, soft tailoring and summer separates make up the collection; it’s all about simple, wearable, stylish clothes for the modern woman. For A/W 2010, the look is still pretty with tailoring but with a wider variety of textures and materials. Light summer dresses have been given an edge, with shiny metallics and chunky knit.

Where to Buy

Sita Murt has stores across Spain as well as a boutique in Paris. The brand is also available to buy online at Farfetch.

Sita Murt’s show at Cibeles Fashion Week in February 2010

Elena Garcia for Spring/Summer 2010

Who is she?

Elena Garcia was originally born in Spain but moved to London back in 1992 where she now resides. She initially studied linguistics, but later decided to follow her passion design. In 2001 when she went to The London College of Fashion where she re-trained and earned a degree in Surface Textiles for Fashion. Upon graduation she started working on her very first collection with her friend Ilya Fisher and which was launched as the label Fisher Garcia. Although the label is now not active, the girls still collaborate creatively together.

Garcia now devotes most of her time to talent The Elena Garcia Eco-Couture Studio. In running her fashion business, she adheres to eco-friendly, fair trade, ethical and sustainable practices and processes. The company uses organic, pesticide-free fabrics and dyes that are free of metal, amine or azo compounds and of low impact. However Elena is quick to inform that she is no “eco warrior” and is conscious of not “preaching about sustainability” Her reasoning behind the brand and the new green trend in fashion is simple: “I believe in trade, not aid, and I would like to give a sense of dignity, respect and appreciation to the people who make my products.”

The Look

The Elena Garcia Eco-Couture label offers artistically hand-crafted designs that focus on blending traditional textile techniques with daring designs with luxurious, organic fabrics that are richly textured. Collections combine opulent fabrics, enchanting silhouettes and delicate embellishments. Elena likes to create texture with intricately felted wool embellishments and shibori dyeing; the Japanese term for several methods of dyeing cloth with a pattern by binding, stitching, folding, twisting, compressing and ethereal ribbon-like cutwork for elaborate results.

The label also pays close attention to texture, colours and quality finishes, with a fresh, distinctive approach as Elena prefers to not use zips or plastic fastenings, and instead shapes are defined by the placement of natural shell buttons.  Explaining her designs, Elena says, “I tend to focus on the details. My clothes are hand crafted and well finished, made in small batches. The fabrics are amazing and feel great against the skin. The felted pieces are all a one-off you never know how the wool is going to shrink. The cut-work in each blouse takes hours. The level of craft is very high, so you are really investing in a piece of clothing that will be passed down for generations.”

Inspired by Laurence of Arabia and The English Patient, Elena’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection is entitled “Silk Safari”. Mixing a warm colour palette of deep browns and charcoal greys with natural ivory tones, the garments capture the romantic spirit of the desert. Each item is made in one size only and wearers can adapt and adjust garments to their size using buttons and drawstrings.

An Arabian-inspired silk jumpsuit

The Buzz?

During her work with the Fisher Garcia brand, Elena rapidly received recognition within the fashion industry, with features in prestigious publications such as; British Vogue, The International Herald Tribune and Selvedge Magazine.

The Elena Garcia Eco-Couture Studio label has also been acknowledged in the US with some of the garments from the A/W 08 collection being featured within the hit series Alter Eco by Planet Green which was hosted by Adrian Grenier and supermodel Angela Lindvall. More recently Elena Garcia showcased her designs at Nolcha during New York Fashion Week.

Where to buy

You can view the Elena Garcia collection online with the option to place an order enquiry via email. The eco-friendly brand can also be purchased directly online at The Natural Store.

From the AQ1 "Sustained Formation" show

Who are they?

Arrondissement AQ1, known simply as AQ1, is the brainchild of German designer Christina Arend. After studying fashion design in Berlin and undertaking various projects with prolific international designers such as Jasmine De Milo and Fendi, as well as Kaviar Gauche in Berlin, Christina Arend launched AQ1 in 2010. The reason behind the name? AQ1 is the Latin code for eagle and Arend is the Dutch translation for eagle.

Whats the buzz?

With an impressive portfolio behind her, Christina Arend launched her Spring/Summer collection entitled “Sustained Formation” at the 2010 Berlin Fashion Week. She took the event by storm and won the coveted Premium Young Designer Award Spring Summer 2010 for her accessories. The label also had phenomenal success across Europe becoming part of the Tranoi Fashion Fair Paris, AQ1 success even stretches as far as Japan where the label is popular thanks to the EU Gateway programme for young designers. In fact the label is so successful and so buzzed that it even has its own Youtube channel.

The look

AQ1 is, according to the designer, the new femininity: a mix of fluidity, graphic lines, casual and evening wear. ‘Everything is related and forms a unity. The accessories are a special feature of my collection. They complete the entire AQ1 look and make it “unique”. Graphical lines will always be maintained, but broken by different elements, which consistently change’ says Christina.

Important to the AQ1 look are the accessories, bags, belts and jewellery which don’t simply finish outfits, but are an integral part of the designs. The latest collection entitled “Oneness Universe” uses silks, suede and velvet to give a soft contrast to the hard edge of the designs; creating outfits which are ‘as gentle as they are commanding’.

Where to buy

AQI designs are available in boutiques throughout Europe,  and at numerous online stores including Quartier Deluxe, Style Server, Blend and Antecedens.

The Arrondissement AQ1 show at Berlin Fashion Week 2010

Heimstone's 'Jason' pink silk perfecto

“Je ne sais quoi…” We’ve all heard the famous French expression that seems to cross over into any language without being translated.

In my opinion, we all understand it and can say it (or at least we try using our best accent), but only the French, more specifically French women, actually have it. They are the“I-just-threw-on-this-amazing-jacket-and-tied-up-my-scarf-using-a-technique-that-can’t-be-explained-because-it-is-genetically-inherited” women who, without fail, ooze this inexplicable chic. For the rest of us, a Paris-based online boutique, fittingly named Je Ne Sais Quoi (JNSQ), now offers the possibility of shopping pieces that might add a little something special to our style.

Founded in 2008 by Mireille Nagourney, the online luxury boutique features accessories, clothes and lifestyle goods from 19 niche brands and emerging designers.

According to the website, feeling that traditional clothing shops offered the same, repeated choices, Nagourney wanted to introduce shoppers to brands that “master the coupling of classic design with this je ne sais quoi that makes each look unique.”

In fact, it is the selection of original yet timeless pieces that is so interesting. Items such as the blushed pink silk perfecto by Paris brand Heimstone, or button-down white top with cool tassel detail by Siwa Creations, show that Je Ne Sais Quoi offers clothing that will work well in many wardrobes, whilst also adding a certain flair to your style.

Hoping to appeal to a variety of clients, each season Je Ne Sais Quoi features five looks created from five different pieces from the boutique. Named after Nagourney’s friends, the looks try to please individual aesthetics, whether you prefer the outgoing, cosmopolitan “Vicky” look, or the more sexy “Emilie” style.

Although stressing timelessness over fads, Nagourney explains that her boutique’s selection and the looks she creates may reference a trend. For instance, the yellow touches on the Heimstone dress and bag of in the “Vicky” look are reminiscent of the recent penchant for yellow leather in Paris, but are classic enough to be styled in different ways for seasons to come.

The site also collaborates with Parisian lifestyle blog Do It In Paris, which chooses a selection of  stylish items each month to allow customers to create that quintessentially elegant look the French capital is recognised for.

Nagourney herself chooses her boutique’s brands for their unparalleled quality and craftsmanship. Featuring, for the moment, mostly French and American designers, including Moio, Tali Gillette, and Odile de Changy, the boutique offers clients the possibility of shopping luxury brands that have strict distribution policies and not always available to those living outside of say, New York, Paris or London. For instance, Nagourney has indicated that, as of now, her boutique is the only online shop in France to sell LnA t-shirts. She is currently developing the introduction of new brands from Ireland, India and Belgium.

The chic, sassy 'Vicky' look

With users from 18 countries, the boutique ships internationally and provides clients the opportunity to pay orders in US Dollars or Euros or purchase gift certificates. Shipments arrive in two to four days via UPS. Adding to the exclusivity of shopping a luxury boutique, Je Ne Sais Quoi orders arrive elegantly wrapped in silk tissue paper in a white shopping bag secured by an organza ribbon.

With an internet connection, a few clicks of the mouse, and a credit card, clients worldwide enjoy a unique shopping experience and find some je ne sais quoi style, no matter their location.

The boutique have also recently set up a blog which is essential reading for its insider tips on Paris restaurants and bars, interviews with JNSQ designers and trends features.

Shop the Je Ne Sais Quoi boutique online here, and you can also find out the latest news on the JNSQ Blog and on Twitter @SHOPJNSQ.

A far cry from pretty trenches

From all-weather explorer gear and the trenches to chav chic and innovative online collaborations, we trace the history of a very British brand.

Early 1900’s – Burberry and British history

From the early 1900’s Burberry outfits became synonymous with some of the proudest and also some of the darkest periods of 20th century English history. In 1911 they provided the attire for Ronald Amundsen- the first man to reach the South Pole, then three years later for Earnest Shackleton’s trans-Antarctic expedition. Burberry would continue its association with pioneering British explorers providing Gorge Mallory’s jacket on his ill fated Everest attempted and sponsoring the 1937 Cape Town air speed record.

However it was the mud, blood and slaughter in the trenches of France that gave birth to one of Burberry’s most iconic garments – the Trench Coat. Burberry initially commissioned by the War office in 1914 to manufacture coats for British troops, found that after the war the garment became increasingly popular with civilians. In 1924 Burberry first began lining the now famous “Burberry Trench” with their iconic black, tan and red check, known as “Haymarket Check”.

Throughout the 1930’s and 40’s Burberry remained close to its routes and continued to design outdoor attire for the pursuits of the upper classes and people of leisure of both sexes, producing outfits for golf, fishing grouse shooting and similar pursuits.

When the spectre of war once again overran Europe, Burberry’s weatherproof garments were once again the staple outfit for all divisions of the armed forces and once again, the horrors of war led to a boom in Burberry’s popularity.

Post War Hollywood Burberry Boomers

In 1942 Humphrey Bogart came to immortalise the hard bitten, ice cool chic of Burberry and Hollywood, by wearing a Burberry Trench in Casablanca. After the Second World War, other stars came to adopt the Burberry Trench as the symbol of big city chic and icy cool. The Trench now with a more urban style of tailoring became the favourites for stars such as Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast in Tiffany’s. The brand continued to grow in popularity amongst the Hollywood set and the general public when Peter Sellers wore the Burberry Trench in the Pink Panther films.

In 1967 as Burberry began to expand its range of products the “Haymarket Check”, used to line the original 1920 Trench coats began to appear on luggage and other items making Burberry instantly recognisable the world over. However throughout t the late 1970’s until the 1990’s recognising Burberry Check would strike fear into the hearts of law abiding UK citizens as football firms began to adopt the brand as their unofficial uniform.

Watson works her magic for Burberry

1970’s 1990’s Football thugs and Bravo Rose Marie

The 1970’s saw the brand’s image became tarnished as the Burberry check became synonymous with violence, hooliganism and loutish behaviour. From this background of football violence sprang the so called “Chav” sub-culture. Burberry’s association with “Chavs” and violence became so linked in the public mind that Haymarket check was banned from many pubs and nightclubs across Britain.

In 1997 Rose Marie Bravo was appointed chief-executive as the brand sought to re-market and distance itself from its now negative connotations. Rose Marie Bravo began to turn the brand’s image around by advertising heavily in magazines such as GQ and Esquire, discontinuing the Burberry cap and appointing British Super model Kate Moss as the new face of Burberry. However Bravo’s biggest coup came when, in 2001, she recruited young designer Christopher Bailey who was working for Gucci at the time.

Burberry also greatly increased and diversified its product range, producing perfumes which accounted for a large percentage of Burberry’s profit increase throughout the following years. In 2005 Bravo was replaced by Angela Ahrendts as chief-executive, and Bravo became vice-executive.

Best of British Faces

On the 9th of June 2009 Burberry announced that young British actress Emma Watson, best known for her roles in the Harry Potter films, would become the new face of the brand. Advertising the Spring/Summer 2010 collection, Emma Watson was shot by photographic legend Mario Testino and directed by David Bailey. This new, young and vibrant look completed Burberry’s image transformation and re-affirmed its best of British roots. The wizarding star joins a whole host of well known British faces who have been chosen to represent the brand over the years, as Burberry constantly turns to home grown talent in their advertising campaigns in order to keep the brand true to its British roots. Kate Moss, Agyness Deyn and Rachel Weisz are just a few of the English roses who have proudly donned the Burberry trench, so Emma Watson has a rather large mac to fill.

The Art of the Trench

In November 2009, Burberry coupled up with The Sartorialist‘s Scott Schuman and embarked on an interactive innovation; Art of the Trench. Wanting to create a blog that depicted the glamorous life of the Burberry trench worn by hip folk on the street, Schuman began to snap subjects in their trench coats all over the world, which vary from toddlers to girls about town. It is now possible to send in your own trench image, and the best photos are then posted on the website for all to admire. The site also includes an interactive history of the trench coat, allowing readers to flick through designs throughout the decades. A living celebration of the trench coat, the site has attracted millions of Burberry aficionados and has allowed the brand to integrate into the blogsphere with style.

Burberry Autumn/Winter 2010

Trends 2010

Spring/Summer 2010 truly reflected the brand’s new focus on trend led fashion for young lithe things like Watson, as the collection boasted a particularly vibrant pastel palette and thigh skimming hemlines. Twisted fabrics and shimmering cupcake colours gave a playful vibe to the brand, and the lilac trench worn by Watson in the advertising campaign achieved cult status.

However, for Autumn/Winter 2010, Bailey returned to the roots of the brand, choosing a khaki-based colour palette with lashings of snuggly fleece that evoked war time practicality with a good dose of modern luxury. Sexed up with thigh high boots, the classic trench tailoring was omniscient, although the shaggy sheepskin adornment gave the Burberry trench a new look for the coming winter. It seems that Bailey has managed to do exactly what is needed for a brand with such a long running legacy; he has preserved the key ethos of Burberry whilst managing to update its image and bring it to the forefront of young, British fashion.

The Future

Burberry has regained its status as an iconic British brand and is now still as famous and recognisable the world over as it was in the 1950’s and 60’s. It currently has 119 mainline and 253 concession stores worldwide, including six stores in Beijing alone and recently celebrated a new store opening in Lebanon, which was graced by a performance from One Night Only, whose guitarist, George Craig, models for the brand. It appears then, that Burberry will continue its legacy in the coming years, dressing the world over in a truly English fashion and using the hottest stars to propel the brand onwards and upwards.