But if you’ve looked out of the window recently, you’ll know the time has come to face the reality of the situation and take action. Keep one had clutching onto your playsuit and fedora if you must; put off buying your winter coat for a few more weeks if you’d rather, but do embrace the coatigan – the half way house that makes stylish sense for us all…

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Make a Statement

Missoni Balletto Cardi-Coat, available online here.

Reiss Alicia Tee, available online here.

Topshop Baxter Skinny Jeans, available online here.

Alexander Wang Diego Bucket Bag, available online here.

Cutler & Gross Sunglasses, available online here.

Fashion Forward

Topshop Fisherman Rib Cardigan, available online here.

Stella McCartney Slingback Heels, available online here.

Boden Skinny Belt, available online here.

Topshop Leather A-Line Skirt, available online here.

Polished Daywear

Tibi Bouclé Belted Coat, available online here.

Won Hundred Oversized Shirt, available online here.

Gap Skinny Trousers, available online here.

Reiss Thea Shoes, available online here.

Mawi Onyx & Skull Bracelet, available online here.

Country Weekending

Topshop Knitted Fairisle Cardigan, available online here.

Current/Elliott The Captain Pant, available online here.

Alex Monroe Bumbee Necklace, available online here.

Topshop Faux Fur Stole, available online here.

KG by Kurt Geiger Wentworth Boots, available online here.

Off Duty Cool

McQ by Alexander McQueen Knitted Cardigan, available online here.

Topshop Panelled PU Leggings, available online here.

Carvela Scarp Boots, available online here.

Acne Check Shirt, available online here.

YSL Black Stone Ring, available online here.

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Boho Weekender

Urban Outfitters Boots, available online here.

The Old Curiosity Shop Woven Belt, available online here.

Topshop Cardigan, available online here.

ASOS Platform Shoe Boots, available online here.

Maximum Glamour

Sam Edelman Suede Embellished Shoe Boot, available online here.

Topshop Knitted Cable Jumper, available online here.

Kenneth Jay Lane Gold And Blue Bangle With Crystal Detailing, available online here.

Atelier Mayer 1950s Multicoloured Marble Earrings, available online here.

The Professional Maxi

Miu Miu Blazer, available online here.

Roland Mouret belt, available online here.

Reiss Camel Jumper, available online here.

Vivienne Westwood Shirt, available online here.

Maximum Grunge

Uniqlo Scoop Neck T-shirt, available online here.

ASOS Tan Leather Rucksack, available online here.

Round Sunglasses by Le Specs, available online here.

Dr Martens Boots, available online here.

Three of Manolo's desirable Liberty designs

Manolo Blahnik is not usually one for collaborations, and if you wanted to treat yourself to a pair of to-die-for shoes you would usually have to visit a stand alone Manolo Blahnik store, rather than clicking onto Net-a-Porter as you might do with other brands.  However, the shoe designer has made an exception for a collaboration with iconic department store Liberty of London and alongside an exclusive range of products, Manolo will be curating Liberty’s Christmas displays.

The highly anticipated collection will include shoes, prints and gift items and will be on sale for three months from 8th September.  The enchanting items will be housed in a bespoke ‘World of Manolo’ area on the ground floor of Liberty’s.  Weathered Art Nouveau ironwork gates will curl down from the sage green walls and be used to display the beautiful shoes; a special set for a very special designer.  Liberty’s managing director said of the collaboration: “Manolo has enjoyed a long relationship with Liberty fabrics using a wealth of different prints from our extensive archive of over 43,000 designs in his work starting with his very first collection. I wanted to take Manolo’s interest in all things Liberty and translate it into a project that would bring his incredible work to our customers in a completely unique way.”

Liberty, which is famous for its colourful prints, will be selling three fabric designs by Manolo on a limited print run.  The prints are quintessentially English florals and geometric designs inspired by Orson Welles and Mark Rothko.  The shoes on offer are based on sixties prints predominantly in camel and brown tones, with Manolo’s signature high heels.  There is also an adorable pair of ballet flats in a navy print if you’re not one for braving the vertiginous heights of Blahnik courts!  Other items on sale include luxury candles, cushions, stationery and ties, and a new coffee table book of Manolo’s sketches will also be available in September – Manolo’s New Shoes. The tome follows the sell-out sucess of  Anna Wintour/Andre Leon Talley’s Manolo Blahnik Drawings and Colin McDowell’s seminal work about the designer,  Manolo Blahnik.

The collaboration successfully celebrates Manolo Blahnik’s 30 year career and love affair with English detailing.  Manolo was born in the Canary Islands before moving to Paris in 1965 where he began working as a set designer.  It was a chance meeting with US Vogue editor, Diana Vreeland, that kick started his career as a shoe designer and in 1972 he caught the eye of London based designer Ossie Clark.  Manolo opened his first shop in 1973 and his designs have been captivating women ever since with their sheer beauty and sharp craftsmanship.  These shoes will feel right at home in one of London’s most special department stores, it will be a shame when they have to leave again!

It’s that inbetweeny time of year once again. Our attention is firmly focused on balmy summer afternoons in the park, long lazy days at the beach and cocktails at sundown; it might just be that this is the one month you forget about shopping entirely. And no, that wouldn’t necessarily be a mistake either – even the most style-savvy boutiques seem a little confused when it comes to the late summer months. We all prepped and put together our holiday wardrobes some time ago, but we’re not really ready to envisage an end to halcyon days in the sun. And so the retail space is mildly confusing and strangely empty; filled with the beginnings of Autumn/Winter collections and a few tired-looking bikinis and maxi-dresses. What’s a shopaholic to do? Luckily there are some on-trend items for the coming months that you won’t have to wait to wear; the ‘investment buys’ for next season, dare we say it….

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The Lace Dress

Dolce & Gabbana Lace Shift Dress, available to buy online here.

Sam Edelman Embellished Peeptoes, available to buy online here.

Topshop Canvas Floral Clutch Bag, available to buy online here.

Aspinal of London Beige Patterned Snake Belt, available to buy online here.

ASOS Leather Tassel Frame Bag, available to buy online here.

The Leather Shorts

Christopher Kane Leather Shorts, available to buy online here.

T by Alexander Wang Classic Muscle T-shirt, available to buy online here. 

Brokefab Freestyle Beaded Necklace, available to buy online here.

Pucci Velvet Top, available to buy online here.

Maison Martin MargielaVelvet Ankle Boots, available to buy online here.

The Military Shirt

Vince Military Shirt, available to buy online here.

Topshop Floral Printed Playsuit, available to buy online here.

See By Chloé Leather Satchel, available to buy online here.

ASOS Trecker Shearling Boots, available to buy online here.

Proenza Schouler Tweed Skirt, available to buy online here.

The Cable Knit

Burberry Cashmere Cardigan, available to buy online here.

Diane Von Furstenberg Bikini, available to buy online here.

Mango Wooden Wedges, available to buy online here.

Topshop Maxi Slip Skirt, available to buy online here.

ASOS Peacock and Rhinestone Earrings, available to buy online here. , ASOS.

Persol Sunglasses, available to buy online here.

The Winter Boots

UGG Black Lynnea Cuffed Suede Clog, available to buy online here.

Uniqlo Casual Mini Skirt, available to buy online here.

Topshop Skinny Tartan Check Shirt, available to buy online here.

ASOS Bright Leather Obi Belt, available to buy online here.

French Connection Sienna Stripe Dress, available to buy online here.

]]> http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/transeasonal-trends/feed/ 0 http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/the-red-rail/ http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/the-red-rail/#comments Wed, 04 Aug 2010 17:58:46 +0000 Emma Waight http://runninginheels.co.uk/?p=17782

Ivona Batuta's creation for The Red Rail

There was a whole new show at last month’s Amsterdam Fashion Week: The Red Rail. A unique collection of 20 outfits from 18 up-and-coming fashion designers sashayed down the catwalk: softly draped pink pastel tops, high waisted trousers, ruffles and statement silhouettes for women, and graphic tees and pale, tailored trousers for men. What made these garments different to anything else at Amsterdam Fashion Week is that they’re not available in the shops for sale. If you want any of these items, you have to give blood.

No it’s not a humane way of feeding the vampires, but a new initiative by Stichting Nobel, bringing together a collective of Dutch designers willing to design and donate clothing for the cause. The aim is to promote the act of blood donation to the health services, encouraging a new, young generation to give their blood to those in need. Most people would agree that donating blood is a good thing to do, but how many people actually get around to it? Giving blood is giving life, and an idea such as this could prove to be a huge boost to reach the young generation.

So how does it work? The clothes were shown at Amsterdam Fashion Week on 16^th July and have since appeared on The Red Rail’s website. Anyone wishing to take part has six months to donate their blood, and once done, they can email the organisers stating the item they have their eye on, contact details, and the all important donor number. Due to the limited number of items available, a lottery system will be adopted to award the clothes to happy donors early next year. In January 2011, all 20 outfits will be displayed in the Young Designers United store for two weeks.

The clothes were designed by emerging new talent in the fashion industry, with Ellen Benders, Ivona Batuta and Studio JUX topping the list. They worked under the gaze and guidance of Dutch designer Claes Iversen and Angelika Groenendijk Wasylewski from Young Designers United. At the show, one girl told the story of how her life was turned upside down by Leukaemia and how receiving blood saved her life. The Nobel Foundation is a Dutch communications agency which initiates creative projects to tackle social issues.

The Red Rail is an innovative idea and sure to be a success. Not only has it already raised awareness for blood donation, but it also celebrates new design talent. Save a life and get a new dress in exchange for giving blood? Sounds like a good deal to us!

Find out more about the initiative on The Red Rail website.

A not-so-glamorous cover for Kate Moss

Debates and controversies surrounding fashion icons and the campaigns of design houses are nothing new; one need only look towards the colourful histories of Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Dolce & Gabbana and Calvin Klein to recognise a correlation between fashion and the headlines. The industry may be explicit in fighting for its right to creative freedom, using campaigns as a vehicle for raising important issues and a creative, and important, nudging of boundaries. However, it also creates and capitalises on controversy to create a buzz, often for the sole purpose of attracting revenue.

Controversial Clothes Horses

Who could forget the controversies surrounding Kate Moss in 2005 and Naomi Campbell in 2000, 2004 and each succeeding year until 2010? Following the Daily Mirror’s breaking of the story with the publication of grainy photographs purporting to show Moss snorting cocaine on a night out with Pete Doherty, she quickly lost deals with Burberry, H & M and Chanel.

Similarly, after infamous altercations involving cabin crews, drivers, policemen, housekeepers and assistants Naomi Campbell was dropped from her ‘honorary grandfather’ Nelson Mandela’s 90th birthday and was forced to mop floors and scrub toilets as part of her community service order. Yet neither suffered in the long-term from these damaging allegations. Indeed, Moss quickly regained her repute as the world’s greatest supermodel as the short memory of fashion houses saw the launch of her Topshop range and the continuation of her contracts with the likes of Rimmel, Calvin Klein and Versace. Any knock to Campbell’s reputation was simply a fleeting phenomenon at most and she lost none of her lucrative modelling contracts.

Both grew in stature and infamy, remaining household names and with this rise in prominence they attracted an increasingly strong spotlight. And a revenue-boosting one at that, which shone on the brands associated with the pair, be it those who terminated or continued contracts with the (fleetingly) disgraced stars. Indeed, following its termination of Kate Moss’ contract, H & M saw its profit increase from 2.45 billion kronor to 3.32 billion kronor. Rimmel, who chose not to terminate its contract with Moss, saw the scandal as a chance to capitalise, using her as the face of their ‘party girl’ line and increasing their profits well into the millions as a result. And of course Topshop, whose face-lift following its Kate Moss clothing line launch netted the brand a 10% rise in profit in only 12 months.

Battling With Black

Vogue Italia’s July ’08 issue which featured only black models called into question the hotly debated topic of race within the fashion industry. Intended to draw attention to the lack of black models, it featured the likes of Tyra Banks, Jourdan Dunn and Naomi Cambell and created an unprecedented demand for the one-off publication all around the world, leading to the words ‘the most wanted issue ever’ being emblazoned on its shrink wrap. And true to its catchphrase, the issue sold out completely, with Conde Nast rushing to reprint a further 40,000 copies.

Covers from Vogue Italia's Black Issue

The controversy surrounding the issue proved immeasurably beneficial to race debates and was deemed a ‘cultural watershed in fashion’. Vogue itself and the eighteen new, established and former black stars within its pages also profited greatly from the buzz surrounding the issue. Relative up-and-comers at the time Jourdan Dunn and Tocarra Jones were thrust into the limelight, whilst Vogue recruited an entirely new reader bracket. The fashion magazine industry, which was facing a significant slump at the time, was boosted with new-found interest and enthusiasm.

Controversies surrounding the ‘insensitive’ photos featuring Claudia Schiffer made up as a black woman for a Dom Perignon ad campaign which were featured in Stern Fotografie magazine and those in US Vogue featuring LeBron James and Gisele Bundchen in a ‘King Kong and white heroine’ stance, though attracting negative attention, created a buzz nonetheless.

Divisive Designers

Mark Fast sparked huge controversy last year as he sent models of sizes 12 and 14 – Hayley, Laura and Gwyneth – down his S/S 2010 catwalk. In a bold personal attempt to challenge the size zero trend, Fast’s showcasing of curvier models in his knitted bodycon dresses led to his stylist and creative director deserting the designer only days before his show. The issue gained ground, being featured in the headlines in both fashion and news publications and re-ignited once again the ubiquitous issue of the health of catwalk models.

Some commentators welcomed the move, such as Alexandra Schulmann, editor in chief of British Vogue who, only months previously, had spoken out against the worrying trend of sending unhealthily thin models down the catwalks but others were outspoken in criticising the move, such as Garance Doré, who saw the move as ‘gimmicky’ and trivialising an important issue.

The catwalk show was followed by the opening of Fast’s photographic exhibition featuring models aged eighteen to sixty-five and sized eight to sixteen, All Walks Beyond the Catwalk. The result of such controversy and media furore? A lucrative contract with Topshop. In the same month, basking in the wake of the controversy, plus-sized model Crystal Renn released her autobiography at a glamorous New York launch.

Sex Sells

The banning of fashion campaigns on the grounds of their sexual inappropriateness sees the exclusion of countless advertising campaigns from British broadcasting. But the effect is rarely detrimental as the fashion industry thrives upon the storm created by the controversy to attract business.

The banning of Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium perfume advert, which showed a nude 23-year old Sophie Dahl in a seductive pose on a fur rug, saw it skyrocket to infamy, becoming one of the most complained about adverts ever. Whilst campaign chief Tom Ford saw it as a nod to the powerhouse’s provocative side and female liberation, the ASA saw it as decidedly anti-women and offensive and, thanks to 730 complaints from the public, it was withdrawn.

The same fate awaited Calvin Klein’s S/S 2009 campaign and numerous Dolce and Gabbana adverts: one in which gang rape was supposedly insinuated and another in which male models brandished knives whilst surrounded by female models with a gunshot victim on the floor.

In a world where any press is good press, the publicity brought about by debate-provoking adverts, public figures or other ventures almost exclusively proves beneficial to the fashion industry. One need only look to the once disgraced Kate Moss whose so very public fall from grace netted her an estimated double what she earned the earn before the ‘cocaine Kate’ scandal. Controversy in turn brings publicity, infamy and staying power and you can bet your bottom dollar the fashion industry would be nothing without it; controversy makes the (fashion) world go round.

Mark Fast’s controversial Spring/Summer 2010 catwalk show

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Miss Molly – Stylist

Miss Molly is a Stylist and the lady behind the concept for the Trouble In Suburbia story (she looked at Anjelica Huston, Glenn Close and Lartigue’s Riviera.)  For Molly, it’s all about films; new, old, French, Croatian, romcom, arthouse. Anything. It’s all about massive books too, and Molly insists on dragging them to meetings, even though she has a back problem from carrying them all in one massive Mulberry Roxy Tote. When it comes to fashion, Miss Molly is inspired by Chanel; the monochrome is her signature, although she does have a thing about a pop of colour, with the current favourite being fluorescent orange. She’s also inspired by her grandmother’s wardrobe of glorious 1940′s gowns. Molly couldn’t live without the invention of steam irons, breton stripes and Charles Anastase. Miss Molly’s dream purchase? A 2.55. And where will we find her in five years? Still crystalling that damn bustier. But with her keys and lipstick in a 2.55. Miss Molly’s most recent vacay was in the wonderful North Devon town of Ilfracombe, the most special place to her in the world. And it wasn’t raining. Can she run in heels? Fuck yeah! Find out more about Miss Molly on her website, and you can follow her on Twitter @MissMollyStyle.

John Hooper – Photographer

Afte studying Graphic Design at Camberwell College of Art, John began shooting for Sleaze Nation then Intersection, The Wire and Vanity Fair and more recently Big Smoke (Hip Hop magazine) and FadeAway (Basketball). Inspired by films (favourites include Mean Streets and Brewster’s Millions) and music, John loves collaborations and relishes the opportunity to work with musician, actors and designers. Generally he finds talented people inspirational and feels that within whatever field, if someone is confident and dedicated to their work then almost regardless of the end result, the passion put into something is very powerful. John is currently working on with Michael Moloney on time-lapse film after the success of their work with the If You Could guys over at It’s Nice That, and five years hence, he’d like to be making films and shooting people. Preferred drinking holes include The French House in Soho, and The Flask in Highgate, but you’ll also find John browsing Claire de Rouen Books on Charing Cross Road and Margaret Howell on Wigmore Street. Find out more about John on his website, and do make sure you check out his blog.

Lilly Keys – Make-up Artist

Lilly studied makeup at the London College of Fashion before starting her career off by assisting with Girls Aloud. Since then she has worked with numerous bands and celebrities including Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe, Sadie Frost, Davina McCall and The Saturdays. Lilly couldn’t live without her Polaroid camera and her iPod, and is currently listening to The Pixies, Nine Inch Nails and the American Beauty soundtrack. She is inspired by mermaids, her favourite artist Michael Parkes and makeup artist Alex Box. Her desert island book would be The Secret History by Donna Tartt or any Anne Rice novel. Lilly is a native South African and is a beach girl at heart, but loves living in London Town where she has been resident for the past 14 years. The last place she visited was LA and Hawaii in April this year. In five years time, Lilly would love to be working regularly in high end editorial makeup, running her own Fashion Week team and to have her own make-up makeover TV show whilst living in LA. Lilly is far to tall to be running in heels! Check out Lilly’s wonderful work on her website. Follow Lilly on Twitter @Lilly_Keys.

Ania Sowinski – Model

Born into a Polish family but raised in northwest London, Ania has been acting since the age of ten. Her dad used to collect film scores on vinyl and she has inherited his love for them; they send her imagination into overdrive. Ania’s biggest passion is film but she finds it impossible to have just one favourite. She’s inspired by travel and people, finding both equally fascinating and beautiful; the last place she visited was the breathtaking south coast of Sardinia. In terms of fashion, Ania is inspired by her friend Miss Molly, because Molly makes it fun and adventurous, has an insanely sharp eye for detail, and possesses the incredible talent of knowing exactly what will look good on who. Ania couldn’t live without her best friend Kellie Bright, food, music and Environ skincare (which she has just discovered, and is like magic for your skin.) Ania was last seen with Idris Elba in the BBC’s Luther, and you can catch Ania next in the feature film Mr Nice starring Rhys Ifans and David Thewlis in cinemas October 2010. Can Ania run in heels? Sort of. One day she will master it like SJP and run through the streets of Paris in a pair of Louboutins…

Fashion Credits

1. Headband – Bodyamr; Skirt with lace edging (worn round neck) – Prada; Can Can Skirt – Beyond Retro; Ring – Dannijo.

2. Raisin Jacket and Chiffon Nightdress – Topshop; Crystal brooch (worn at waist) – D&G; High waisted knickers – American Apparel; Shoes – Christian Louboutin; Belt – silk braiding from Barnett & Lawson.

3.Dress – Charles Anastase; Skirt with lace edging – Prada; White and Black Can Can Skirts – Beyond Retro; Earrings – Dannijo.

4&7. Pleated dress – Topshop; Tights – Henry Holland for Pretty Polly, available from My Tights; Vintage Earrings – Shikasuki; Ring – Dannijo; Shoes – Christian Louboutin.

5. Twenties Maxi Dress – Stylist’s Own; Vintage Crystal Necklace (worn in hair) – Shikasuki; Vintage Crystal Belt – Rokit.

6&8 Animal Cardigan – Stylist’s Own; Bra – T by Alexander Wang; High waisted knickers – American Apparel; Vintage Ring – Stylist’s Own; Vintage Cigarette Case – Wasteland, LA.

Ten years on, how much has really changed?

Uncovering the truth behind the brands, No Logo has become a cultural manifesto of the anti-globalisation movement since its publication in 1999. But has anti-capitalism thrived in the last decade? Or have consumers just got sucked in deeper?

Award winning journalist and author, Naomi Klein, used No Logo: Taking Aim at the Brand Bullies to expose the practices going on behind the flashy brand names which penetrate our lives. Speaking frankly about brand culture, she told tales from the workers who kept the companies running, whether based at a store in Manhattan or a sweatshop in China. Klein’s key argument was that these brands were selling an idea, not a product. They prioritised spending on marketing and PR rather than product manufacture. Some saw this exposé as the end of the brand bubble, predicting a mass rebellion against globalisation, but ten years on, the brands unmasked and shamed by Klein are still booming. Wal-Mart now trades as 55 different brands in 15 countries, including Asda in the UK, whilst Starbucks has more than 17 000 outlets worldwide.

Klein stated, ‘Clearly the techniques of branding have both thrived and adapted since I published No Logo’. Indeed they have, but that doesn’t mean No Logo didn’t make an impact. The public had opened their eyes and were willing to listen. Shortly after the book’s publication, the BBC aired a Panorama documentary, entitled ‘Gap and Nike No Sweat’ which highlighted the use of sweatshop labour in Gap and Nike factories in Cambodia. Workers explained that they were forced to do over-time, often working seven days a week and shockingly, children as young as twelve were found to be employed in the factories. Similarly a year later, journalist John Pilger filmed a poignant documentary showing workers in an Indonesian sweatshop, manufacturing clothes for Gap, equally poorly paid and over worked.

Even stories such as these didn’t stop the masses from buying though, but it did force the brands to take action. Consumers could no longer be fooled with just a name; they were looking for more. The early noughties were a boom time for spending as fast fashion took over the High Street, but as the recession crept up, the fashion industry took a beating. With many people having less disposable income, brands had to work harder to stand out and sell.

Value retailers have thrived, proof that for savvy shoppers with a tightened belt, branding is discarded before product. According to a report published by market research specialist Mintel in June, supermarkets were the biggest spenders on clothing advertising in the UK last year, whilst the value of clothes advertising in general dropped by a fifth to £159.6 million. Over twenty clothing and footwear companies have gone into administration since the recession started, but not all brands have struggled. The young, affluent, and perhaps most brand conscious consumers have helped niche lifestyle brands to amplify sales. Superdry with its vintage Americana and Japanese design influenced casual wear saw sales rise 29% in 2009, catapulting founder Julian Dunkerton onto the Sunday Times’ Rich List.

One of Klein’s criticisms in No Logo was the disparate pay of the workers at the bottom of the chain compared to the vast amount ploughed into marketing, and the total profits gained. This was depicted clearly in the documentary film Wal-Mart: The High Cost of Low Price (2005) which delved into the personal lives of individuals and communities trying to fight this goliath creature. The film described the unfair and unsafe conditions which employees were forced to work in; slogging away for a company with big ideas and a little conscience. Just recently a number of companies have come under fire for the astronomical wages paid to their senior executives. Last year, Angela Ahrends, chief executive of Burberry was paid £6.1 million in cash and shares, whilst Marc Bolland was lured to M&S from Morrisons with a promise of £15m. But the people actually making the products in the factory, and selling them on the shop floor, won’t earn this sort of money in a lifetime, probably not even in ten lifetimes. So if some things haven’t changed, what has?

Cheap labour for mass-produced goods

Well Nike has for one. All that negative press must have upset them, because they have worked hard to turn things around. Criticised throughout the nineties and noughties for employing children in their factories and moving production from country to country in search of ever cheaper labour, Nike now see ‘sustainable business and innovation as an integral part of how we can use the power of our brand’, according to their website. Nike has an internal team to enforce ethical conditions of manufacture and have been credited with a number of awards. The company was named in Ecosphere’s ‘World’s Most Ethical Companies’ 2010 and put in seventh place on Newsweek’s 2009 Green Rankings and in May this year, they announced the launch of the ‘Nike Employee Grant Fund’ which will donate $500,000 per year for local non-profit organisations and schools. So Nike did good; but if you’re measuring success in a trend towards anti-globalisation, then Nike still won’t please you. The brand shows no sign of relaxing its global grip.

For those that truly want to believe in what they are buying, and don’t trust the big boys, ethical fashion labels are emerging at quite a rate. These brands specialise in organic fabrics, fair working conditions and making the most of local skills. There is definitely a trend emerging towards ‘slow fashion’ and revisiting traditional production techniques. As well as the names that have been around for some time such as People Tree and Komodo, many, many new ones have merged in the last five years. SOKO is a social enterprise working in Kenya to produce clothing in a sustainable and fair way, and similarly Angel Jackson is manufacturing stylish clutch bags with ethical credentials. After the brand boom in the nineties, consumers once again have a wider choice in where they shop, helped by the growth in internet shopping which has allowed smaller brands to reach their customers.

Some shoppers actively shun labels with the idea that advertising a brand across your chest is a bit naff. In 2009 Absolut Vodka launched a limited edition ‘Absolut No Label’ spirit together with a 24-page magazine exploring labels, misconceptions and prejudices. The idea stemmed from the brand’s support of the LGBT (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender) community, and PR manager, Kristina Hagbard stated, ‘For the first time we dare to face the world completely naked. We launch a bottle with no label and no logo, to manifest the idea, that no matter what’s on the outside, it’s the inside that really matters.’ The thing is, the bottle did still have a logo, its character stamp etched onto the glass, and coupled with the distinctive bottle shape it wasn’t naked at all. It was protected with the brand identity Absolut worked hard to build up.

With the world wobbling under the threat of global warming, pollution, excessive waste and the loss of natural resources, and brands set to continue their reign of power; it seems right that a deal should be done. Brands are in a powerful position to convey messages to consumers for positive change. Marks & Spencer leads by example with their ‘Plan A’ initiative, which has been a great success in improving the sustainability of the company and attracting customers with an ethical conscience. No Logo broke the shiny image of global brands and granted, they survived, but not without making changes. As we push forward into this decade, sustainability and ethics should be a growing concern for the big brands’ survival. Let’s see if the little guys can fight back.

Wal-Mart: The High Cost of Low Price

Cute scalloped shorts, eclectic prints and a we-want-one-of-those clutch

Name: Katy Barnes

Job: Freelance TV Producer

Where did buy your outfit?

My top is Marni from eBay, the shorts are the Queen’s Wardrobe, an online boutique – I love online shopping (if only for receiving a parcel). The clutch is Alexander Wang and the shoes are River Island. I tend to spent most of my money on shoes and accessories, as if you buy outside of the trends they last for much more than one season.

Who or what inspires you?

French Vogue editorials (especially by Emmanuelle Alt), Chloe Sevingy, who has been the object of my obsessions for well over 15 years now (she was the reason behind my first designer purchase thanks to a photoshoot in iD – second hand Martin Margiela Tabi toe boots at the age of 18) and my Grandma, who was the kind of woman who dressed for dinner. I’ve been given all her old photos recently and it’s so fascinating going through them. She could give Betty Draper a run for her money.

Where do you shop?

I am as happy to have the real thing as the tribute version – and sometimes I’ll buy both, so I shop all over. But Liberty, Topshop, Zara and charity shops are my main ports of call every week. I don’t vintage shop though – it takes the fun out of the hunt and I think it’s all got a bit samey – racks of band t-shirts, dungaree dresses, ironic shoes. I prefer to do the selecting myself and meet the weird and wonderful people who volunteer in charity shops. My Mum and I have our routes round all sorts of places, from Newcastle to Tunbridge Wells, New York to Melbourne – you’ve got to be dedicated and go regularly to really luck out.

Who are you listening to at the moment?

Running mixes on my iPod for my morning run round Hyde Park with loads of early 90’s stuff like George Michael and and Radio 4 when I’m in the house.

Dream purchase?

Givenchy red or black boots from the A/W 2010 collection. Or a second house to store all my clothes and shoes like Anna Dello Russo, the Editor in Chief in Vogue Nippon.

Favourite bar, and why?

The French House. Because it’s nearby, it serves good cider and it’s great for watching Soho types go by.

Desert island book?

That’s so hard. My friend sends me all the books she’s read in the post, so I always have a good supply of interesting stuff by my bed. But probably Vikram Seth’s A Suitable Boy and a Japanese text book – I’m slowly learning and I need all the help I can get.

Where’s the last place you visited?

Paris, last week for the YSL retrospective. It finishes on August 22nd. Go now!

Do you think you are cool?

I’m not sure about cool, but I’m pretty much who I wanted to be when I was 13, so that’s cool enough as far as I’m concerned.

Can you run in heels?

Are you kidding? I can barely walk in them. I still have over 400 pairs. I wear them to watch Law & Order every night.

Don’t miss Katy’s brilliant blog, Must Own More. You can also follow Katy on Twitter @KatyBarnes.

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Style Sightings – St Tropez – http://www.stylesightings.com

Hoy Fashion – Liverpool – http://www.hoyfashion.co.uk

Copenhagen Streetstyle – Copenhagen – http://copenhagenstreetstyle.dk

Lookbook Nu – Barcelona – http://lookbook.nu

Stockholm Street Style – Stockholm – http://carolinesmode.com/stockholmstreetstyle

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