Historic designs from Carven couture

Who are they?

Post World War II France was a hive of up-and-coming couturiers ready to sweep its demi-mondelles up into a fury of escapist fashions and into a new future, free from political turbulence. Dior’s New Look famously propelled scrimping and saving fashion into a new era of decadence, grabbing at the waistlines of elegant Parisiennes and flaunting a full-skirted silhouette that best suited those already blessed with  curves.

However, Madame Carmen de Tommaso, an interior designer by trade (who stood at a mere 5ft 1”) realised that this imposing silhouette rarely flattered the petite women amongst France’s couture clientele. Madame Carven was famously told by her own mother, “You will never be elegant”, and she seemingly battled against this diktat throughout her career. Madame Carven created the House of Carven in 1945; ostentation was disregarded in favour of democratic style that suited all female forms and which captured the spontaneity and promise of modern life in a recovering world.

Nonetheless, Carven was still a couture house, and therefore offered luxury clothing; frequently attracting many a member of European royalty to its atelier on the Champs Elysées. Over the course of many years Madame Carven launched several perfumes affiliated to the label, designed leisure wear, golf wear and was often seen driving an extremely elegant Fiat convertible; creating an all round brand image for the petite French woman that was just as fashionable as those of statuesque beauty. Carven was readily accepted into the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, but eventually ventured into ready to wear in 1958. The designer was renowned for dressing trend-setting teens rather than the usual mature customer of couture, and also became known for designing air hostess uniforms for Air France in the late 1960’s.

With the gradual demise of the couture industry, Carven ceased couture production in the early 1990’s, and Madame Carven finally hung up her scissors in 1995 at the impressive age of 84; allowing for the business to focus on ready to wear collections under the direction of Edward Archour and then Pascal Millet in 2001. In 2009, Guillaume Henry (of Givenchy design heritage) came to the helm of the label, only to whip up a storm at his Autumn/Winter 2010 show, where editors began to whisper of the long awaited rebirth of true, Parisian style and the messiah that resuscitated Carven’s sleeping beauty.

The Look

One of the most radiant pieces of Carven’s earlier collections was a green and white stripe summer dress, named ‘Ma Griffe’ or ‘My Label’. Not only did this garment spawn the name for Carven’s most famous perfume, but it also created the signature colour scheme of the brand. Every collection that followed contained a green and white motif, whether it were the striped skirt that graced the 1947 collection (which had a draped theatrical curtain that framed a hand painted Paris street scene!) or the fresh green gingham fabric found in the 1949 Africa inspired collection.

Carven's current ad campaign

Madame Carven was heralded as the most well travelled of couturiers of the era, as she loved to take inspiration from other far flung cultures and work them into French style, as seen in her Chinese themed ‘Lantern Collection’. Egyptian and Aztec inspired styles also featured in her designs, along with an entire collection inspired by the Spanish master of art, Velasquez, in 1959. The house became known for a style that was playful, innovative and artistic, with details such as trompe l’oeil designs and exquisite trimmings adding an elegant, decorative quality to the collection. Lace collars and cuffs, embroidery and beading were intended to emphasise the delicacy of the petite form without swamping the figure.

The Buzz

Following the Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, which captured a perfect balance between sexy and stylish (oh so French) Carven has caught the attention of the global fashion community. Continuing to preserve the youthful ethos Madame Carven aspired to half a century ago, the brand appeals to Europe’s hippest crowd- those who wish to exude a casual elegance without buying into try-hard style.

Henry is one of fashion’s men of the moment in terms of ready to wear design with mass market appeal; and he is endeavouring to regenerate the brand rather than alter it. A clever co-branding event with Didier Ludot has helped to raise Carven’s profile, with a pop up boutique established at Ludot’s store between the 6th and 31st August. The shop showcased vintage Carven pieces, and offered a close up look at the Autumn/Winter collection which stopped the heart of many a fashion editor.

Where to Buy?

Key pieces are available at Net-a-porter, and My Theresa. Check the brand’s website for details of international stockists.

Carven's subtle, yet sexy collection for Autumn/Winter 2010

But if you’ve looked out of the window recently, you’ll know the time has come to face the reality of the situation and take action. Keep one had clutching onto your playsuit and fedora if you must; put off buying your winter coat for a few more weeks if you’d rather, but do embrace the coatigan – the half way house that makes stylish sense for us all…

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Make a Statement

Missoni Balletto Cardi-Coat, available online here.

Reiss Alicia Tee, available online here.

Topshop Baxter Skinny Jeans, available online here.

Alexander Wang Diego Bucket Bag, available online here.

Cutler & Gross Sunglasses, available online here.

Fashion Forward

Topshop Fisherman Rib Cardigan, available online here.

Stella McCartney Slingback Heels, available online here.

Boden Skinny Belt, available online here.

Topshop Leather A-Line Skirt, available online here.

Polished Daywear

Tibi Bouclé Belted Coat, available online here.

Won Hundred Oversized Shirt, available online here.

Gap Skinny Trousers, available online here.

Reiss Thea Shoes, available online here.

Mawi Onyx & Skull Bracelet, available online here.

Country Weekending

Topshop Knitted Fairisle Cardigan, available online here.

Current/Elliott The Captain Pant, available online here.

Alex Monroe Bumbee Necklace, available online here.

Topshop Faux Fur Stole, available online here.

KG by Kurt Geiger Wentworth Boots, available online here.

Off Duty Cool

McQ by Alexander McQueen Knitted Cardigan, available online here.

Topshop Panelled PU Leggings, available online here.

Carvela Scarp Boots, available online here.

Acne Check Shirt, available online here.

YSL Black Stone Ring, available online here.

Feminine tailoring and soft drapery

Who is she?

Masha Ma completed an MA in Women’s Wear at Central Saint Martins in 2008, with her final collection being selected for show at London Fashion Week, and subsequently bought by B Store.  Masha Ma was a finalist in numerous design competitions including the the Puma CSM Bursary Award and Fashion Fringe 2009. In September 2009 she won the Mouse Ji Best International Innovation Award in the 2009 CCDC China Contemporary Design Contest. This year Masha will present her latest collection during Paris Fashion Week at the Palais du Louvre, as well as a debut show at London Fashion Week’s Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

The Look

Masha Ma describes her beautifully-crafted pieces as ‘semi-couture, with designs that are bold yet intricate and focus on the unravelling of the female form.’ Her Autumn/Winter 2010 collection combines tailoring and drapery to create a dramatic silhouette that fuses vintage influences with fashion forward shapes. Masha Ma’s pieces are meant for strong, confident women who appreciate elegant, modern style.

It’s a collection of contrasts and exquisite finition: a nipped-in waist on an intricate maxi-dress;  a structured yet voluminous three-quarter length coat with boldly-positioned zipper; a white collar and cape with black buckle detail. Despite the powerful pieces, much of the collection is very wearable; there’s a soft, sensual semi-sheer blouse with delicate print and some achingly chic pencil skirts that are oh-so-feminine and truly celebrate the female body. The colour palette of black, white, café au lait, old gold and blue-grey is restrained and refined; emanating modernity and confidence – these are the real investment pieces.

The Buzz?

Masha’s designs have attracted the attention of publications such as Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Another Magazine, Cosmopolitan, L’Officiel and Pop. Ahead of London Fashion Week, the hype is growing: fashion blogger Park & Cube recently paid a visit to the Masha Ma studios; Amelia’s Magazine has interviewed Masha herself and we’ll be featuring the collection in an upcoming shoot.

Where to Buy?

Masha’s current collection isn’t available to buy, so you’ll have to content yourself with drooling over the pics!

For more information, see the Masha Ma website. You can also become a fan on Facebook, follow on Twitter @MASHA_MA and for all the latest news, see the Masha Ma blog.

The many faces of Masha Ma...

Monochromatic trompe l'oeil prints

Who is She?

An expert in print and texture, Paris-based Dane, Anne Marie Skjoldager Jensen graduated in 2009 with an MA in Fashion from The Danish Design School (DKDS).  Skoldager Jensen had previously completed a degree at DKDS in Textile Design in 2007.  Her resume also includes studying Fashion Design with Gaspard Yurkievich at the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

She has complemented her impressive education with internships at Bernhard Willhelm and John Galliano.  Her life-long love of fashion and textiles is inspired by ‘many things ranging from architecture, literature, travels, to people whom I admire.’

The Look

Skoldager Jensen’s debut collection ‘One eye laughing, the other crying’ combines beautifully executed prints and cuts with the fantastical and surrealist.  Intended to reflect Franz Kafka’s Up in the Gallery, the playful pieces reflect her love of colour and shape.

Skoldager Jensen pushes the boundaries of creative expression, bringing imagination to life with her trompe l’oeil prints and intricate origami-esque designs.  The ethereal creations retain the dreamlike quality of her whimsical illustrations.  Fantasy and reality merge as printed eyes spread off walls on to garments, and giant chiffon lips drift across a strapless mini.  Jensen’s minimalist colour selections lend a continuity to her collection as she plays with proportion and shape.  With each unique design, Jensen invites us to step through her very own looking-glass, transporting us to a fancy-dress-box world, where paintings come alive and imagination rules.

The Buzz

Skoldager Jensen’s designs were photographed by Mark Gong and featured as an ‘Emerging Talent’, in the 2010 issue  of Surface Magazine.  Her fresh and original take on surrealism within the fashion landscape has garnered her a niche following as her idiosyncratic pieces capture the imagination of trend sites TrendLand and Trend Hunter, and numerous bloggers including Fashion156, Spot on Textiles and The Fashion Medley.

Skoldager Jensen was shortlisted for the prestigious ‘createeurope 2009’ and showed her collection in Berlin in Autumn 2009.  She has also designed clothes for the New York-based singer Princess Superstar and Danish singers Susanne Dahn-Leach and Aura Diode.  With ambitions to work for one of the ‘major fashion houses’ and internships at John Galliano and Bernard Willhelm already under her belt, she looks set to take the fashion world by storm.  Watch this space.

Where to Buy

Skoldager Jensen’s first collection is not available to buy, although she has ambitions to develop some basic pieces for sale.  For more information please contact the designer at contact@amskoldager.com or visit her website.

Anne Marie Skjoldager Jensen's debut collection: ‘One eye laughing, the other crying’

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Boho Weekender

Urban Outfitters Boots, available online here.

The Old Curiosity Shop Woven Belt, available online here.

Topshop Cardigan, available online here.

ASOS Platform Shoe Boots, available online here.

Maximum Glamour

Sam Edelman Suede Embellished Shoe Boot, available online here.

Topshop Knitted Cable Jumper, available online here.

Kenneth Jay Lane Gold And Blue Bangle With Crystal Detailing, available online here.

Atelier Mayer 1950s Multicoloured Marble Earrings, available online here.

The Professional Maxi

Miu Miu Blazer, available online here.

Roland Mouret belt, available online here.

Reiss Camel Jumper, available online here.

Vivienne Westwood Shirt, available online here.

Maximum Grunge

Uniqlo Scoop Neck T-shirt, available online here.

ASOS Tan Leather Rucksack, available online here.

Round Sunglasses by Le Specs, available online here.

Dr Martens Boots, available online here.

One of Budroni's C+C bags in situ

Who is he?

After studying fashion design in Milan, Carlo Budroni spent time in the Italian fashion capital working for big labels such as Trussardi and Max Mara.  He actually founded his ‘C+C’ line there in 1999.  However, after the hustle and bustle of the high fashion world, Budroni brought his handbags to Cagliari, perhaps drawn back to the sun, the sand, and the culture of his native Sardinia.  He opened his tiny boutique three years ago on via San Domenico, a quaint cobbled street in the historic part of the city.

The store is sparsely decorated with only a few pieces of hip vintage furniture and simple wooden shelving, allowing the eye to easily admire his bright fabric handbags that hang on twine from the ceiling, or that are perched every-which-way amidst the retro décor.  Budroni hand-makes all of his pieces in this little boutique; his atelier separated from the shop by a white stone arch, with his sewing machine and books of fabric clearly visible to patrons.

The Look

Budroni’s designs are perhaps first notable for his choice of fabrics, as he works with a variety of materials, both traditional and more unique. His use of orbace is quite unique and ties his pieces to his native island; it’s a Sardinian waterproof wool, historically used for clothing worn by farmers and later in the production of military uniforms.  By mixing this traditional material with more conventional fabrics such as cotton, linen, and denim, Budroni subtly sews in a little bit of Sardinia into each of his pieces.

However traditional orbace might be, C+C offers a modern, contemporary aesthetic; shapes are fashion-forward in form and volume – think elegant hobos, unexpected triangular shoulder bags, and practical rectangular messenger bags.

In keeping with the avant-garde vibe, other pieces channel pop art designs and  feature funky geometric appliqués or hand-painted images, some of which reference Sardinia (suns with haphazard rays, cacti and even the Sardinian flag).  Budroni also gives a nod to green fashion by constructing or trimming in recycled materials including PVC, jute, and vintage fabrics..

And Budroni’s talents don’t stop at handbags; he also creates made-to-measure men’s ties and terracotta buttons, necklaces, vases and platters.  He recently launched a series of graphic tees, as part of a new line that also includes some of his bags, called ‘Pelle Salata’ (Salty Skin).  Featuring silk-screen drawings by Budroni, similar to certain appliqués from his bags, the tees are inspired by Sardinia.

A view of Budroni’s funky shop and atelier

The Buzz

C+C has been featured in various travel guides and the in Italian press, including in the Corriere della Sera and in EasyJet’s in-flight magazine, Traveller, as a must-see and must-do for the fashion-inspired tourist in Cagliari.  Budroni’s work was also highlighted by Sardegna Ricerche, a public agency that promotes local artisans, design creativity, and the production of textiles and accessories on Sardinia.  I would have to agree that C+C is most definitely a not-to-be-missed address for shoppers seeking chic with a uniquely Sardinian twist.

Where to Buy?

If you are interested in securing a piece designed by Budroni, his wares can be made to order or are available in store.   For more information about C+C, Pelle Salata, and Budroni’s boutique, visit his website.

Tel: + 39 070 234 1128

Three of Manolo's desirable Liberty designs

Manolo Blahnik is not usually one for collaborations, and if you wanted to treat yourself to a pair of to-die-for shoes you would usually have to visit a stand alone Manolo Blahnik store, rather than clicking onto Net-a-Porter as you might do with other brands.  However, the shoe designer has made an exception for a collaboration with iconic department store Liberty of London and alongside an exclusive range of products, Manolo will be curating Liberty’s Christmas displays.

The highly anticipated collection will include shoes, prints and gift items and will be on sale for three months from 8th September.  The enchanting items will be housed in a bespoke ‘World of Manolo’ area on the ground floor of Liberty’s.  Weathered Art Nouveau ironwork gates will curl down from the sage green walls and be used to display the beautiful shoes; a special set for a very special designer.  Liberty’s managing director said of the collaboration: “Manolo has enjoyed a long relationship with Liberty fabrics using a wealth of different prints from our extensive archive of over 43,000 designs in his work starting with his very first collection. I wanted to take Manolo’s interest in all things Liberty and translate it into a project that would bring his incredible work to our customers in a completely unique way.”

Liberty, which is famous for its colourful prints, will be selling three fabric designs by Manolo on a limited print run.  The prints are quintessentially English florals and geometric designs inspired by Orson Welles and Mark Rothko.  The shoes on offer are based on sixties prints predominantly in camel and brown tones, with Manolo’s signature high heels.  There is also an adorable pair of ballet flats in a navy print if you’re not one for braving the vertiginous heights of Blahnik courts!  Other items on sale include luxury candles, cushions, stationery and ties, and a new coffee table book of Manolo’s sketches will also be available in September – Manolo’s New Shoes. The tome follows the sell-out sucess of  Anna Wintour/Andre Leon Talley’s Manolo Blahnik Drawings and Colin McDowell’s seminal work about the designer,  Manolo Blahnik.

The collaboration successfully celebrates Manolo Blahnik’s 30 year career and love affair with English detailing.  Manolo was born in the Canary Islands before moving to Paris in 1965 where he began working as a set designer.  It was a chance meeting with US Vogue editor, Diana Vreeland, that kick started his career as a shoe designer and in 1972 he caught the eye of London based designer Ossie Clark.  Manolo opened his first shop in 1973 and his designs have been captivating women ever since with their sheer beauty and sharp craftsmanship.  These shoes will feel right at home in one of London’s most special department stores, it will be a shame when they have to leave again!

It’s that inbetweeny time of year once again. Our attention is firmly focused on balmy summer afternoons in the park, long lazy days at the beach and cocktails at sundown; it might just be that this is the one month you forget about shopping entirely. And no, that wouldn’t necessarily be a mistake either – even the most style-savvy boutiques seem a little confused when it comes to the late summer months. We all prepped and put together our holiday wardrobes some time ago, but we’re not really ready to envisage an end to halcyon days in the sun. And so the retail space is mildly confusing and strangely empty; filled with the beginnings of Autumn/Winter collections and a few tired-looking bikinis and maxi-dresses. What’s a shopaholic to do? Luckily there are some on-trend items for the coming months that you won’t have to wait to wear; the ‘investment buys’ for next season, dare we say it….

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The Lace Dress

Dolce & Gabbana Lace Shift Dress, available to buy online here.

Sam Edelman Embellished Peeptoes, available to buy online here.

Topshop Canvas Floral Clutch Bag, available to buy online here.

Aspinal of London Beige Patterned Snake Belt, available to buy online here.

ASOS Leather Tassel Frame Bag, available to buy online here.

The Leather Shorts

Christopher Kane Leather Shorts, available to buy online here.

T by Alexander Wang Classic Muscle T-shirt, available to buy online here. 

Brokefab Freestyle Beaded Necklace, available to buy online here.

Pucci Velvet Top, available to buy online here.

Maison Martin MargielaVelvet Ankle Boots, available to buy online here.

The Military Shirt

Vince Military Shirt, available to buy online here.

Topshop Floral Printed Playsuit, available to buy online here.

See By Chloé Leather Satchel, available to buy online here.

ASOS Trecker Shearling Boots, available to buy online here.

Proenza Schouler Tweed Skirt, available to buy online here.

The Cable Knit

Burberry Cashmere Cardigan, available to buy online here.

Diane Von Furstenberg Bikini, available to buy online here.

Mango Wooden Wedges, available to buy online here.

Topshop Maxi Slip Skirt, available to buy online here.

ASOS Peacock and Rhinestone Earrings, available to buy online here. , ASOS.

Persol Sunglasses, available to buy online here.

The Winter Boots

UGG Black Lynnea Cuffed Suede Clog, available to buy online here.

Uniqlo Casual Mini Skirt, available to buy online here.

Topshop Skinny Tartan Check Shirt, available to buy online here.

ASOS Bright Leather Obi Belt, available to buy online here.

French Connection Sienna Stripe Dress, available to buy online here.

]]> http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/transeasonal-trends/feed/ 0 http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/the-red-rail/ http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/the-red-rail/#comments Wed, 04 Aug 2010 17:58:46 +0000 Emma Waight http://runninginheels.co.uk/?p=17782

Ivona Batuta's creation for The Red Rail

There was a whole new show at last month’s Amsterdam Fashion Week: The Red Rail. A unique collection of 20 outfits from 18 up-and-coming fashion designers sashayed down the catwalk: softly draped pink pastel tops, high waisted trousers, ruffles and statement silhouettes for women, and graphic tees and pale, tailored trousers for men. What made these garments different to anything else at Amsterdam Fashion Week is that they’re not available in the shops for sale. If you want any of these items, you have to give blood.

No it’s not a humane way of feeding the vampires, but a new initiative by Stichting Nobel, bringing together a collective of Dutch designers willing to design and donate clothing for the cause. The aim is to promote the act of blood donation to the health services, encouraging a new, young generation to give their blood to those in need. Most people would agree that donating blood is a good thing to do, but how many people actually get around to it? Giving blood is giving life, and an idea such as this could prove to be a huge boost to reach the young generation.

So how does it work? The clothes were shown at Amsterdam Fashion Week on 16^th July and have since appeared on The Red Rail’s website. Anyone wishing to take part has six months to donate their blood, and once done, they can email the organisers stating the item they have their eye on, contact details, and the all important donor number. Due to the limited number of items available, a lottery system will be adopted to award the clothes to happy donors early next year. In January 2011, all 20 outfits will be displayed in the Young Designers United store for two weeks.

The clothes were designed by emerging new talent in the fashion industry, with Ellen Benders, Ivona Batuta and Studio JUX topping the list. They worked under the gaze and guidance of Dutch designer Claes Iversen and Angelika Groenendijk Wasylewski from Young Designers United. At the show, one girl told the story of how her life was turned upside down by Leukaemia and how receiving blood saved her life. The Nobel Foundation is a Dutch communications agency which initiates creative projects to tackle social issues.

The Red Rail is an innovative idea and sure to be a success. Not only has it already raised awareness for blood donation, but it also celebrates new design talent. Save a life and get a new dress in exchange for giving blood? Sounds like a good deal to us!

Find out more about the initiative on The Red Rail website.

Mouillé's fringed 'Montica' one-piece

Who are they?

Partners Abhijeet Ajjan and Sarah Turner realised there was a potential gap in the market for a beachwear company providing exclusive swimwear in super luxe fabrics, and their idea became reality with the launch of Mouillé in 2008.

Sarah is the design element of the duo, having studied fashion design at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology in Australia, undertaken a string of placements with luxury womenswear labels, worked in retail and taken part in numerous fashion shows. Her fiancé and partner Abhijeet brings commercial nous to the table, with a degree in hotel management and in-depth knowledge of the industry.  Sarah’s passion for French culture and the South of France led to them choosing ‘Mouillé’ as the brand name, meaning ‘wet’ or ‘moist’ in French.

The Look

Mouillé takes basic one-pieces and bikinis in luxury fabrics and adds ultra feminine details which mean that their designs really stand out and flatter the figure. According to Sarah, the current collection (which is their first) was inspired by texture, geometry and the ‘new sense of being feminine’.

Swimwear showcases on-trend fringing and tribal beading, quirky prints and sexy cut-outs. And they’re multi-funcational too; the assymetric Naomi one-piece has a fun frilled neckline and could easily be worn as part of an evening ensemble. There’s a mix of hues from pale pinky nude to deep, vibrant fuschia and intense peacock blue; like the designs themselves, the colour palette offers something a little different to what we’re used to seeing poolside. Our favourites have to be the super pretty Multi-Plumes bikini and the  ‘Kolka’ swimsuit with tie sides and unusual placements prints. “I love beach culture. It’s so fun, fresh and colourful. I believe there is a huge market for luxury beachwear, especially as people are starting to travel more and explore their horizons” says Sarah.

The Buzz?

Although relative newcomers to the fashion scene Mouille have garnered an impressive following within the industry with a number of glossy magazines and fashion websites featuring the brand : Online fashion bible  Vogue.com mentioned Mouillé swimwear on their June Shopping List and Harpers Bazaar online named the brand’s ‘Poiret’ one-piece as their Weekend Fashion Fix. Mouillé’s swimwear lends itself well to fashion-forward editorials, and has featured in Grazia, Easy Living and ASOS magazine, to name but a few.

They’re aiming high. According to Abhijeet: “We have high ambitions for Mouillé. We know that it will take a lot of hard work, determination and patience but we both believe in it so much.” It is this determination that will see Mouillé taking part this September in Mode City in Paris: the world’s leading trade fair for swimwear and summer lingerie. The brand will be showing off their collection for Summer 2011, entitled ‘Falling Through The Cracks’  alongside other emerging luxury designer swimwear and lingerie labels. This summer might be drawing to a close, but we can’t wait to see their ideas for next year!

Where to Buy

Mouillé is available to buy online at ASOS, Elle Passions and Zodee.

For more information about Mouillé, see the brand’s website. You can also check out their blog and follow Mouillé on Twitter @MouilleSwimear.