The Boundary's spacious outdoor terrace

Europe is steeped in incredible attributes – The Colosseum, La Sagrada Familia, The Houses of Parliament and the Berlin Wall to name but a few.  And when there are so many fabulous rooftop terraces to enjoy these sights from, why view them from the same perspective as the masses below? So escape the tourist trail and put your feet up (literally) with Running in Heels’ guide to Europe’s best bars with top views.

The Boundary, London

The Boundary is located just off Brick Lane, a street worth visiting for its curry houses, markets and vintage stores during the day and its off-kilter bars and clubs at night.  So why not make a day and night of it by finishing off your trip here with a visit to this distinctive bar?

The Boundary has views across industrial heartland East London, all the way down to the river Thames and the distant sparkling skyscrapers of Canary Wharf.  It’s a glitzy backdrop for a night in London but up close the bar is naturally homely; the terrace is adorned with sweeping trees and fire pits, and if you still feel cold you can wrap yourself in the woolen blankets provided.

40 Seconds, Berlin

Occupying the eighth and top floor of a Berlin tower block, the curious name of this bar stems from the fact that it takes exactly 40 seconds for the lift to travel from the building’s ground floor to the bar’s door – even on their nights out Germans are sticklers for punctuality.

The club inside is fantastically sleek, but it’s the selection of terraces that really stand out.  Party-goers take in sights of Potsdamer Platz, the most famous square of Berlin, from the bar’s main terrace while other rooms look over vast sweeps of this sprawling city.  Glitz and glamour would be the two best descriptive words to describe this joint, so put on something snazzy, sip some champagne, and enjoy über-trendy Berlin.

Skyline Bar, Venice

OK, so the Hilton Hotel isn’t some mysterious hole-in-the-wall, but with Venice in all its finery who wants to secrete themselves in a subterranean hideaway?  The hotel’s Skyline Bar is located on its eighth floor, with romantic views over Canale Giudecca and Piazza San Marco.  The bar is known for its minty Mojitos , so slurp a few cocktails, sit with your loved one and enjoy watching the gondolas drift slowly past as the evening floats by.  Love is definitely all around.

Edinburgh Castle on the skyline...

Oloroso, Edinburgh

Edinburgh’s age-old heritage and creative charm make it a city unlike any other.  Visit the Scottish capital’s famous Castle and trace your way along the weave of cobbled streets that extend up and down this city; and when you’re finished eat at the famous Oloroso, a serene rooftop terrace which also holds a world-class restaurant.  The veranda sits high enough to take in the beautiful sights of the city, with Princes Street Gardens and, of course, the castle stretching out on the horizon. It’s a timelessly elegant vista so it’s only appropriate that you toast it in the traditional Scottish way: with a wee glass of whisky.

La Terrasse, Paris

It may be known as the City of Light but it’s hard to find a rooftop Parisian bar that gives a vew of this shimmering city.  With a name like La Terrasse, it’s clear that this venue is an exception and locally it’s known simply as the place take in the exquisiteness that Paris has to offer.

On clear days La Terrasse has views across to the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triumph.  The bar itself is done out with cute shrubbery, blossoming flowers and plush sofas to relax on.  Linger over the famous martini cocktails or if you want to be less sophisticated you could just munch on their savoury or sweet snacks.  Un tres beau paysage!

Hotel Diagonal, Barcelona

Barcelona is a city with superb architecture.  Gaudi’s fantastical buildings dot Las Ramblas and beyond.  And when you’ve got a bar as trendy as Hotel Diagonal, why not take in the stupefying panorama from a dizzying height? Hotel Diagonal plays host to some impressive parties on its modern rooftop terrace.  There’s an enticing pool to cool down sizzling skin, refreshing cocktails to sip on, and last but certainly not least, an epic view of the sweeping Mediterranean on one side, and the bustle of the city on the other.

Plaça de Llevant, 1, 08019 Barcelona

Hotel Adriana, Hvar

Croatia is firmly embedded on the travel radar.  Outside of the eurozone, it’s still relatively cheap, the weather’s great even in autumn and with innumerable islands to visit, historic architecture around every corner and a fabled nightlife, it’s not hard to see why travellers keep on coming back for more.  Hvar, an island off the Dalmatian Coast, is one of the most idyllic settings in the country, with beautiful beaches, gorgeous seafood restaurants and, of course, Hotel Adriana.

Gravity bar offers views over Dublin

Hotel Adriana really is the place to be, as evidenced by the well-to-do patrons who are just as likely to have sauntered into the hotel after mooring their boat at the marina as by strolling in from the street. You may not be able to match their budget at the bar but people watching costs nothing, and should you bore of the wealth on show you can instead take in the views of the turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea and the Paklinski Islands in the distance.

The Gravity Bar, Dublin

We don’t often endorse joining the crowds at mainstream tourist attractions, but the Guinness Storehouse is a surprisingly impressive museum dedicated to all aspects of the black stuff. The building explains the history of Guinness and its development over time with visitors ascending in a spiral around what resembles a massive pint glass.

When the tour’s over the very top of the building, the Storehouse’s Gravity Bar, opens up to you, the dim halo of white light that emanates from its glass walls resembling the creamy head of a pint in the Dublin night. The view below is removed from the main sights of the Irish capital and instead shows the workings of inner-city Dublin. Wisely keeping Irish weather in mind, the designers dispensed with an outdoor terrace in favour of a covered space, so you can sip your pint in peace as rain hammers the window pane.

The stylish and sleek reception of nhow Milan

Surrounded by seemingly every shade of grey, and then some you weren’t even aware existed, the only thing that initially stands out when you enter this industrial estate is the sharp clank of your heels on concrete. Why, you may wonder, would anyone in their right mind think it a good idea to place a design hotel slap bang in the middle of what looks like a car park, and, on top of that, one where you wouldn’t feel entirely comfortable parking your new Range?

Well, that’s exactly the point – the trendy nhow overwhelms the senses by unleashing upon the unsuspecting guest a whirl of bright reds and bold oranges and a mishmash of furniture and fittings that look like works of well-constructed modern art – or indeed are, works are on display by the likes of Jacopo Froggini and Dilmos. Against Milan’s regular palette of demure greys and sensible blacks it’s a startling blast of brashness, emphasised further by the fact that it’s all to be found amongst a dreary concrete block.

The foyer’s interior strikes a stark contrast to the surroundings outside, but at the same time happily complements it – the reception area mirrors the dark grey exterior with its stone flooring, but the space itself is more an artists’ showroom than a conventional lobby – tiered chandeliers cascade from the ceiling, walls are made from translucent strips of red plastic. Yet despite the clashes, the boldness, the Nhow pulls off the spectacular feat of appearing comfortable and welcoming, thanks to clever use of lighting and friendly service, the latter of which Milan is not typically famed for.

However, it’s more than just a desire to shock that finds Nhow in this district: Tortona is also home to Milano’s art and design industry – made fashionable by the Italian Vogue art director Flavio Lucchini and his photographer friend Fabbrizio Ferri. They moved into the area in 1983 and transformed a warehouse into a studio and Tortona hasn’t looked back since; neither has the Nhow. It’s located in the perfect setting for anyone with a creative orientation and need to access a fashion fix at very close hand, but that does remove it from the more bourgeois attractions of central Milan (it’s about 2km from the city centre). Then again, this isn’t the type of hotel that’s aimed at tourists looking for a bolthole near the Duomo – the hotel is meant to be an experience in itself. Which it most certainly is.

Rooms at nhow are bright, spacious and airy...

No two rooms are the same, and though you don’t get the same level of design decadence in a standard room as you do from the lobby, they’re certainly impressive. A minimalist style has been adopted, but not in an unforgiving manner – the room is made warmer by long drapes and a self-styled ‘colour-therapy’ shower. Admittedly that latter feature is slightly ill-conceived due to the pretty but impractical open layout – and can leave the bathroom looking as though it was used on the set of the Titanic – but then design hotels have been known to pride presentation over pragmatism.

The ‘wardrobe’ is also slightly unsatisfactory, as it’s merely a pole with some cheap hangers veiled by what seems to be an old Mosquito net – but we’re guessing that is meant to add to that industrial, fashion vibe, giving you the sense that you’ve just strolled off the catwalk and it’s time to throw on another Armani masterpiece that is hanging casually on the clothes rail. For in-room business and pleasure each room has a Wifi connection and the essential mini-bar, the cost of which can be incorporated into the base price at a reasonable rate if one so desires. The more expensive suites seem primarily designed for those away on business, and incorporate an office/meeting room into the bedroom to persuade guests to bring their work back with them – and no doubt encourage companies to use the many conference rooms that are set up within the hotel.

Moving on to gastronomy matters, Nhow has quite the reputation for its exquisite breakfast, and it certainly did not disappoint – it’s a buffet style start to the day with the freshest of food and staff on hand to attend to any of your needs. The restaurant can get a little quiet and lose some of its atmosphere when the hotel is not at its busiest, but this can be avoided by ordering room service. You’re on holiday after all and with Nhow made for the trendy fashionista; the modern art lover; or, indeed, anyone who might enjoy the different and daring scene set by the hotel, you could really make yourself at home here.

For more information on the hotel itself or to make a booking, see the nhow website.

Continental cafés in the pretty medieval core of Sarlat

For those not heavily into rugby or foie gras, Brive-la-Gaillarde, in the Dordogne Valley may have escaped your notice. But with an international airport recently inaugurated, and a variety of historical, cultural and gastronomical delights on offer, it’s only a matter of time before this area has to reluctantly relinquish its nom de plume: The Secret of France.

To Do

For starters, let’s get our bearings. Brive-la-Gaillarde sits within the three regions of Limousin, Aquitane and the Midi Pyrenees, and covers the three departments of Correze, Dordogne and Lot, in central France. But to avoid a geographical nightmare, let us call it simply: the Dordogne Valley, as the locals do.

The landscape in this region is lush and fertile, and with agriculture and farming positioned as main industries it’s not surprising that the Brive Market is jam packed with fabulous local and organic produce. Head down to the Place du 14 Juillet on a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday morning from 8am and feast on the best fruit, veg, meats, local cheeses and cakes and, of course, foie gras there is.

If you need a lunchtime tipple to wash it all down, head to the artisan Denoix Distillery, where Sylvie Denoix will give you a tour – and taste – of the liqueurs and aperitifs produced on site. As you’d guess from her name the distillery is still a family-run business and proudly follows the same ancestral recipes and preserves the production methods used at the time of its foundation some 150 years ago. You’ll need sensible shoes – we really can’t recommend running in heels on this occasion, sadly – and stamina if visiting the Gouffre de Padirac. This is one of the most famous chasms in Europe, and at 103 metres below ground, the spectacular sight of stalactites and stalagmites, as well as an underground river and various different chambers, is truly remarkable. Budding geologists wax lyrical about the diversity of the topography, but for the rest of us the panorama is simply nature at her most wondrous.

For green-fingered travellers, a tour around two of the loveliest public gardens is a good choice, even in autumn. Les Jardins de Colette is only 10 minutes from Brive. This poetically themed series of gardens takes you through six of French novelist Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette’s special places. From Burgundy to Provence, you lose yourself in Colette’s life and works as you walk by manicured lawns and ripples of woodland. In Terrasson, Les Jardins de L’Imaginaire is more contemporary in design and looks over the old town. Created in the 1990s by the designer Kathryn Gustafson, the rose garden alone grows 1600 roses.

The otherworldly Gouffre de Padirac

The villages surrounding Brive are equally beautiful and the country roads easy to navigate. Be sure to take a wander round Turenne, south of Brive, and admire the 12th century abbey church of Souillac. Considered one of the most beautiful villages in France, Collonges-la-Rouge is a must see. Its towers and chateaux finished in red sandstone, the centre is a fairytale setting still famed for the wine produced in the surrounding region. Curemonte and Sarlat are more than worth a visit, with a host of shops, museums and churches scattered throughout the old town. But for a truly memorable experience, head to Rocamadour, a medieval village carved out of the cliff face. Previously a centre of Christian pilgrimage, this spectacular canyon is home to winding streets and the odd shrine or two.

To Stay

There aren’t any five-star hotels in this area at the moment, but with the opening of the new airport and inevitable local development and economic boost brought in from tourism, it’s only a matter of time. The vast majority of hotels on offer may be simple, but they are reasonably priced and clean (and refreshingly unpretentious in comparison to hotels in larger French cities too).

The Chateau de Castel Novel, is a testament to simple luxuries, and has prices starting from €112 a night in low season. Its 27 rooms and suites are of an international standard, while the 10 rooms of the Cottage, an out-building located in the park, are more homely and petit. There’s free Wi-Fi, a swimming pool and tennis court, and the property is only a ten-minute drive from Brive. In the town of Brive itself lies the well-positioned Le Truffe Noire, good for those wanting a central base. It’s clean and functional and rooms start from €110 a night. In Souillac, Hotel Le Quercy is also well positioned. It’s only two stars, so rates are significantly cheaper – starting at €40 per night – and it’s a decent base for those who are heading out for a day of activities.

To Eat

With duck, lamb and foie gras the firm favourites here, vegetarians need not apply. However, for those who can’t resist a succulent piece of meat, the choices are limitless.

As with the hotel, the Relais & Chateau restaurant at Castel Novel is luxurious. With three intimate dining rooms to choose from – and the terrace in warm weather – the menu is extensive and presented with traditional but tasty interpretations of duck, lamb and lobster dishes. Poultry, meat and seafood – that’s all of the carnivore food groups covered then.

Collonges-la-Rouge is famed for its red-sandstone facades

Le Cantou in Collonges-la-Rouge is a delightful brasserie where you can tuck into various dishes under the shade of the vines that lace the vast terrace. The salads and omelettes are super tasty, and portions are very generous. It’s also worth considering if – for some reason – you’re sick of quaffing the region’s wines; locally made cider is one of its specialities. The Beau Site restaurant in Rocamadour benefits from a breathtaking vista over the valleys that roll past the hilltop village. Try their pan-fried foie gras for a melt-in-the-mouth calorie-fest never to be forgotten. Le Quatre Saisons, in Sarlat, serves French cuisine with a twist. The gutsy head chef is perhaps inspired by the experimental techniques of Heston Blumenthal, so it’s not for traditionalists. But if you like popping candy on your melon or deep-fried foie gras croquettes, look no further.

Before you leave, don’t miss a tea-time trip to La BiblioTHEque, in Terrasson. This exquisite tea shop is brand new, and serves the most beautiful looking and fabulous-tasting sweet treats. With home-made ice creams from €5.50 and brownies and cakes from €2.50, you can’t go wrong – until you hit the scales that is.

41's wood-panelled executive lounge

Not even the most ardent royalist could deny we were entitled to look down on the monarchy. My friend Charlie and I had just checked into our room at the fifth-floor ‘41’ hotel on London’s Buckingham Palace Road and there beneath us lay the sweeping grounds of the Queen’s mainstay pied-à-terre, or part of it at least. Behind the towering sandstone-coloured barricade that blocked the view of street-level riffraff we could sneak a peek into the cobbled courtyard of The Royal Mews, the Queen’s stables, and beyond it a spread of manicured lawn and lush foliage – a vast parkland that doubles as her back garden. We couldn’t help thinking that her filthy rich neighbours must consider their own properties somewhat inconsequential by comparison, but for commoners like us our own temporary abode remained undoubtedly impressive.

Tucked above the better-recognised Rubens Hotel, and with just 30 rooms, the five-star 41 is unknown to many Londoners but any reasonably web-savvy traveller visiting from abroad is likely to have heard of it. On Trip Advisor, the world’s largest travel review site, it regularly sits on the top of the list as the most popular of London’s 1,000+ reviewed hotels. And it caters well to an international crowd in search of a more understated and traditional show of cool Britannia.

The hotel’s main communal area is its executive lounge, a wood-panelled library-style room lined with row upon row of musty first editions and the occasional bust of an erstwhile dignitary.  It’s all terribly grand and imposing but saved from being impersonal by the attentiveness of the staff, who provided us with a revitalising glass of champagne to see us through the menial task of checking in and took time to explain the hotel’s features to us. Among our favourites was its ‘plunder the pantry’ offer, a complimentary buffet of deli-style meats and cheeses, fresh pastries and crusty breads, creamy Belgian chocolates and other similarly delectable items laid out for guests suddenly inconvenienced by an unexpected pang of hunger. Next to it lay the hotel’s honesty bar, replete with aged whiskies and the type of specialist spirits strangely absent from most bars’ two-for-one cocktail lists. Guests can help themselves to whatever concoction they wish and then write their intake in a book, the bill to be added to their room later. Although the signed declarations of alcohol imbibed either by yourself or your neighbours are shielded from public view by a tactfully placed palm leaf, the guests we saw sway their way to the bar seemed to be in full compliance with the system. Truly, you know you’ve made it when the staff at your hotel feels you can be trusted with an unattended drinks cabinet.

Guests who overindulge may find themselves somewhat disorientated when they enter their room, however – it’s akin to diving into a crossword puzzle. Although each room is different they all conform to a black-and-white colour scheme and many are speckled by exquisitely crafted antique further or original artworks. Our own generously sized room stood on a plush carpet, crisscrossed by deep strands of the aforementioned colours and in its centre lay a huge, deeply comfortable bed bandaged by layer upon layer of crisp white bedding. Our brilliantly bright bathroom drew on a similar palette and was stocked generously with fluffy towels, oversized robes and a supply of toiletries from esteemed London perfumery Penhaligon’s, which has traded since Edwardian times.

The White Drawing Room at Buck House

The hotel’s entire ambience is so resolutely British that it has joined with its sister Red Carnation Hotels properties to capitalise on its proximity to the monarchy and offer a Royal Day Out package until October 29th, taking in the most regal attractions that lay nearby. We undertook the programme the next day, following a full English breakfast with a trip to The State Rooms. Part of Buckingham Palace, these are a series of magnificently ornate rooms gilded in gold and illuminated by gargantuan crystal chandeliers, and open to the public only for a limited time each summer – when the Queen decamps to her Scottish holiday home, Balmoral Castle.

We wandered long corridors laced with masterpieces by the likes of Rembrandt and Rubens but the biggest thrill was thinking that at another time of year we may just as easily have stumbled upon the Queen relaxing at home, perhaps plonked in front of Eastenders in her pyjamas or knitting something nice for William or Harry. As it was, we timed our visit wrongly and had to endure the hoi polloi for company instead. I have never encountered such an oppressive amount of people in any other London gallery or museum. Seemingly providing confirmation of the royal family’s worth to the tourism industry, vast crowds visit The State Rooms throughout the summer. We had to register to enter at a specific time and were carried through the palace with the current of tour groups who had booked the same bracket. A small mercy was the ban on photography meaning groups weren’t given further reason to dally and obstruct us but to maximise your visit it’s best to arrive as early as possible, while staff advise it’s also much better to come on weekdays than weekends.

While not garnering quite as much traveller kudos as visiting the Queen’s home, the nearby Queen’s Gallery is still an impressive affair. Open year round, its current “Art & Love” exhibition chronicles the relationship of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert through their shared enthusiasm for art. Given her reputation as being prim and prudish, the Queen had a surprisingly outré, almost camp taste in art. Darkened rooms within the gallery shimmer exorbitantly with the sparkle of jewellery, shields and weaponry lavishly embellished with emeralds, rubies and diamonds; a marbled nymph with fairy wings stand sentry in a corner; and a grand piano, gilded in bronze and decorated with dancing cherubs, takes centre stage in the main display room. Didn’t Liberace own something similar? In any case it’s an intoxicating fusion of the undeniably beautiful and the endearingly bizarre, and one that’s less subject to the swell of crowds at The State Rooms next door.

41's monochromatic Master Suite

We finished our nosy of the Queen’s properties with a tour through the mews we had spotted earlier. It’s still a working stables and the horses that cantered past us added a pleasant touch of pomp but the most impressive sight to be seen is the glistening horse-drawn Gold State Coach. Built in 1762 and now used only for grand state occasions due to its age and delicacy, it was last seen publicly during the Queen’s Golden Jubilee in 2002.

Although nobody can say when it might take to the streets of London again I’m ashamed to say we didn’t spend long appreciating the sheen of the carriage’s golden exterior, nor the plush red satin and Moroccan leather accoutrements – our next appointment was afternoon tea at 41 and we were running late. But before we were to sit down for sandwiches sans crusts and buttery scones smothered in jam and cream, I’d have to drop by our room and draw the curtains. Looking back towards 41 from the cobbled courtyard we had spied earlier, we couldn’t help but think the monochrome interior of our room may also be viewable to the uncouth crowds that clamoured below – we wouldn’t want them looking up at us.

Skies still clear but the crowds long gone at Costa de la Luz.

September spells the beginning of the end for summer: days get shorter, leaves begin to fall off trees and the air gets nippy enough to dig out your coat again. But what if you’re not quite ready for autumn yet? Prolong those sunshiney days for a little bit longer by being a climate cheat – head south to catch the last of summer’s rays. September and October are the perfect time to explore southern Europe, with bright and balmy weather still about, the school holiday crowds long gone and hotel, food and transport prices all drastically reduced. With less visitors around, your break feels more like local living than during tourist-clogged summer, too. Sometimes, the best time to get away is when everyone else has left…

Road Trip: Andalucia

Spain’s southernmost region Andalucia is home to golden stretches of coast, snow-capped mountains and a clutch of gorgeously atmospheric villages and towns. After arriving at Malaga, hire a car and take your time to explore, spending lazy days and nights shuttling from beach and seaside bar to town square and tapas restaurant. September and October are the perfect time for a visit, with temperatures in the low twenties (as opposed to during the blazing summer months, when capital Seville lives up to its nickname as “Spain’s frying pan”). Keep your summer going a little longer with a road trip through this sun-kissed land.

What to do: Stick to beaches around Andalucia’s southeastern tip, the Costa del Sol and Costa de la Luz – for the former you’ll find a well-structured tourist infrastructure with a fraction of the traffic seen over the summer holiday season, and for the latter more tranquil stretches of golden plains dotted with smaller villages. The Costa de la Luz is Atlantic-facing with stronger winds, so it’s perfect for a spot of surfing this time of year, too.

If you fancy getting active at a higher altitude, head to Granada province to explore the gorgeous Sierra Nevada Mountains and National Park, owning Europe’s southernmost ski slopes and some amazing hiking trails. The Alhambra in Granada town is an unmissable sight too – a red-hued Moorish palace and fortress dating back to the 14^th century, its looming beauty dominates the skyline.

Where to stay: La Fuente de la Higuera is a striking converted olive -oil mill just outside Ronda in Malaga province, with views of the surrounding countryside as well as an outdoor pool and gourmet restaurant. Rooms start at €148pn.

Yet another stunning pink-hued sunset in Santorini

Luxury Lounging: Santorini

Santorini is the most dramatically beautiful of all the Greek islands, with traditional villages clinging to jagged cliffs above the huge blue eye of its central lagoon. Santorini’s vertiginous landscape was shaped by volcanic eruption some three thousand years ago, its steep sides forming the rim of a submerged, ancient caldera.

Its rather violent geological history has created some absurdly stunning sweeps of coastal scenery, with sunset views here taking on an almost mythic beauty. Temperatures in September and October hover around the low to mid-twenties, with sea water still warm enough to swim in. There couldn’t be a more relaxing or wildly beautiful place to catch some end-of-summer rays.

What to do: To spot those million-dollar caldera views, head to Fira (Santorini’s capital), Oia, Imerovigli, Firostefani, Megalochori or Akrotiri. Fira and Oia are largest, their whitewashed houses, blue-domed churches and narrow streets stuffed with boutiques and tavernas, making for enchantingly pretty places for a wander.

If you fancy the quieter side of life, Santorini’s volcanic beaches are nearly vacated at this time of year – most developed are Perissa and Kamari but if you really want to get away from it all Vlihada Beach 13kms south of Fira is a quiet and beautiful spot. The island’s famed Red Beach is most dramatic of all, forming a spectacular crescent of red and black volcanic stone beneath an imposing cliff-face (bring a grass matt to lie on – the rocks get hot!). Bronze Age village Akrotiri is close by too, so make sure you check out its remarkable frescoes, still visible among the ruins.

Where to stay: Katikies is a terraced, traditional villa-style building built into Oia’s cliff-face. Enjoy sweeping caldera views from the infinity pool or your all-white suite’s private balcony. From €360pn.

Culture Vultures: Istanbul

Part-sharing the crown as European Capital of Culture 2010, Istanbul is a wonderful assault on the senses, its skyline a mishmash of Ottoman and Byzantine spires and domes mixed in with flash modern skyscrapers. Spilling across each side of the Bosphorus strait which separates Europe from Asia, it’s the world’s only major city to straddle two continents, and this eclectic heritage makes for some see-‘em-to-believe-‘em views and a unique east-meets-west cultural vibe. With temperatures averaging in the high teens and low twenties throughout September and October, it’s the perfect place for a cool city break with sunshine and super-blue skies almost guaranteed.

Shopping in the Grand Bazaar is fun whatever the weather!

What to do: Touring Istanbul is to take in one breathtaking sight after another. First on your list should be to have a good old haggle at the Grand Bazaar, Turkey’s largest covered market. Here you can ooh and ahh over everything from Ottoman rugs to tooled leather handbags, and get a feel for local life: residents shop here with just as much gusto as the visitors.

The domed wonders of Hagia Sophia (a 2000-year-old onetime basilica, mosque and now museum), the Blue Mosque and the lofty towers and courtyards of Topkapi Palace make for a heady mix of design perfection and cultural artefact to explore. Take a day out from the sensory overload and hop on the ferry to the Princes’ Islands, where golden beaches are great for lounging and cars are prohibited in favour of horse and cart.

Where to Stay: A’jia Hotel is an all-white former Ottoman palace that sits right on the Bosphorus. Sleek, minimal rooms have gorgeous views, and the waterside restaurant terrace serves up food to die for. Rates begin at €210pn.

The Beatles at Hamburg's Top Ten Club

Thirty-something Stefanie Hempel is obsessed with men in their 60s and 70s and she wants everyone to know about it. We’ve joined her for a tour along Hamburg’s notorious Reeperbahn and amidst the glare of neon-fronted sex shops and the cat calls of nearby prostitutes it’s easy to accept as harmless her own particular predilection. The love affair isn’t monogamous though – people throughout the city have had an enduring relationship with the men who would become known globally as The Beatles and this year is something of a golden anniversary for the city.

On August 17 1960 the Liverpool group performed for the first time in Hamburg, in the now-defunct club Indra, and so began a two-year love affair with the city that saw them perform there a staggering 281 times. A musician and Hamburg resident herself, Stefanie’s adulation for the group is deep-rooted. “I heard their music for the first time when I was nine years old and it was a turning point in my life… From that point on I didn’t think about anything else but music.”

Joining other Beatles obsessives, tourists and Hamburg locals our tour kicks off by one of the rather insalubrious bars that unravel from the Reeperbahn where Stefanie shoots out a few facts before whipping out a ukulele and bursting into the first of many Beatles songs. And suddenly we’re reminded why the Beatles are still so popular. Without realising we even knew the words we’re all suddenly singing along to Help on the middle of the street, as drunks stagger past and the bars and clubs and strip joints open their doors for another night’s raucous entertainment. It’s a reminder that, in some ways, this part of Hamburg has changed little since the Beatles lived here. Back then, the port deposited a steady stream of sailors at the city and an industry of hard-living wayfarers was on hand to service their needs.

Stefanie tells us that the teenagers from Liverpool weren’t fully prepared for their new surroundings. Gigs in Liverpool finished early but in Hamburg the band was often expected to play from 7pm to 7am, at one period even playing 98 concerts in a row at the city’s Top Ten Club. Without enough songs in their repertoire they would string out the same tracks over and over, repeating the chorus and chords so that what was a three-minute track would instead last 15, 20, 30 minutes. Youthful enthusiasm and a growing dependence on drugs saw them through it but John Lennon later reflected that this time was fundamental in their development as a band “Every song lasted 20 minutes and had 20 solos in it. That’s what improved the playing. There was nobody to copy from. We played what we liked best and the Germans liked it as long as it was loud.”

Ready for a song? Beatles Platz today

But of course they developed in other ways too. As Stefanie guides us through the city’s red-light district she recounts how their burgeoning success at the start of the swinging sixties saw them become increasingly well-received by locals. It was quite obvious exactly what Lennon really meant when he commented “I was born in Liverpool. But I grew up in Hamburg”; Paul McCartney, meanwhile, referred to Hamburg as “a sex shock”. Another lasting impression the city made was to their appearance. Before their arrival in Hamburg the teenagers modelled their appearance on Elvis Presley and the rockers of the ‘50s. In Hamburg they copied the local look and ended up with the mop-top haircut that would become a defining style of the following decade.

As the tour draws to a close Stefanie guides us to the city’s ‘Beatles Square’, overlooking the neon blast of bars and clubs from the adjacent Grosse Freiheit (Great Freedom) street, and leads a rendition of Come Together. A crowd of American tourists joins in, a Chinese tour group stops to take photos and we can’t help but marvel at how these old guys can still drive the crowds wild.

Stefanie Hempel’s tour takes place on Saturdays from 7pm, and runs until October. It is generally held in German but can also be conducted in English. Other Beatles tours and activities take place throughout the year. Visit Hamburg Tourism for more information.

Germany’s national airline, Lufthansa offers 562 direct European flights to Hamburg a week. Return fares from within Europe cost from €99, including all taxes, charges and baggage allowance.

Cocktails and all sorts of delights on offer...

Missing the good old days when all you had to care about was whether you had brought enough lollies to last you a whole school day? When your biggest fear, well if you were a French primary school pupil anyway, was to be sent to a corner of the classroom (‘au coin’) in shame and much to the enjoyment of the rest of the class? If you do, this tiny, cosy and extremely friendly bar situated in the centre of Paris’s trendy Saint-Germain district , named after France’s most disgraceful school achievement –getting a ‘zero de conduite’ or a bad behaviour report—is for you.

Primary school is the theme (even pre-school some might argue) and letting loose your inner child is the point of the experience. Everything you cherished about this time will be served, shown or ‘sung’ to you in one way or another. Intrigued? Let me explain. First of all, the cocktails are served exclusively in baby bottles. It is as hilarious as it sounds, but you will probably find it quite laborious. Babies might find it simple but this easy as pie concept clearly loses its effortlessness past a certain age. You will get to keep your bottle, however, so you can give it a go at home and practice at your pace. Haribos are also available to order.

You might be a paying customer but this does not mean that things should come easily to you. Whatever you want in  Zero de Conduite needs to be deserved and hard-earned. Take the cocktails for instance. Before you are even given the privilege of struggling with the suction part of baby bottle drinking, you are handed a long menu (around 40 drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic) containing cocktails each named after one of your favourite childhood characters. These range from the Pink Panther and Dragon Ball Z to Babar and Popeye. Along with the menu comes a small whiteboard on which you are now asked to draw the character your chosen cocktail is named after.

Beware however; if the waiter cannot guess what or who your drawing represents you will end up with whatever he thinks your order might be. It sounds easy enough but wait until you read the menu and discover at least three different characters of  canine description. Luckily for you all of the cocktails are delicious and the Snoopy is as tasty as (if not tastier than) the Scooby-Doo (read Scoubidoo in French) or the Dogmatix (or Idefix in Moliere’s tongue). Regardless of the comprehensibility of your work of art, it is the bar’s policy to reward its customers. Each table is eventually offered a choice of four board games to play while enjoying cocktails: Scrabble, Trivial Pursuit, Pictionary and Jungle Speed—the latter being a fairly violent game for people in a drunken state, I would really only recommend it for those of the sturdiest disposition.

The best time to book (it is a very small pub and booking is essential) is Friday or Saturday Night where at around 10.30pm the bar owner or one of his employees (ahem), pardon me, ‘teaching staff’ will challenge the whole ‘classroom’ to an hour-long game of Zero de Conduite’s custom-made Trivial Pursuit. The questions range from children’s TV to school topics to modern American series.

Fun and games at the Zéro de Conduite

The main rule: do not behave like a teacher’s pet. Dare to raise your hand to answer too eagerly or audibly gasp to attract the teacher’s attention and you will be sent ‘au coin’ for as long as he sees fit or might even be asked to kiss another customer as punishment. Challenge winners will be entitled to free shots. However, in the spirit of the place, the most prized rewards are, of course, Chupa Chups lollipops. As part of the game, you might be asked to sing an old cartoon theme tune, to hum a nursery rhyme with your mouth full of sweets or even to dance on a table.

You enter the bar at your own risk. Shouting features heavily in the ‘teaching’ process and you will probably get a good verbal thrashing for answering a question wrong or generally looking like the much dreaded school know-it-all.

It is a well rounded experience. Everything you both loved and dreaded the most about the education system is presented to you for a few hours and, of course, what would such an experience be without slightly masochistic tasks and humiliating punishments (all in good humour of course). ‘Insane’ is the best way to describe a bar which won’t leave anyone indifferent. My advice: go!

More information about the bar is available on the Zéro de Conduite website.

Zéro de Conduite

14 rue Jacob

Paris

75006

A chic, tranquil treatment room at the Raison d’Etre spa

Being is richer and more fulfilling than simply doing.  According to the Grand Hôtel Stockholm’s freshly launched spa, this is what living is really about – hence the name, Raison d’Etre.  Proudly protruding along Stockholm’s waterfront, the Grand Hôtel houses a nature-inspired haven not quite as predictable as one might think.

Built on ‘a palette of granite, Nordic ash, creams and whites’, the Grand’s Raison d’Etre evokes the Stockholm archipelagoalongside sweet details such as branch-shaped doorknobs and a red water lily motif, specific to Northern Sweden.  Fellow Stockholmer friends joke about the Grand Hôtel as the ‘be all and end all’ in accommodation – something to admire but not really a justifiable expense.  I’ve heard it described as both the grand old dame of Stockholm, beautiful and luxurious – but also stiff and intimidating.  It’s a pleasant surprise, then, to discover the tranquil mood and get-back-to-nature aesthetic of Raison d’Etre.

The spa markets its ‘own experiences’ as treatments in which a therapist will review their guest’s individual needs, “rather than simply following a formula”.  The range of services available also extends to specialist treatments such as reflexology and acupuncture to therapies tailored for the boys.

On arrival at Raison d’Etre, hostess Josefin leads me to my locker to change, accessed with a keycard (which, when touched to the door handle should unlock it but amusingly doesn’t in the case of most guests). After changing, my masseuse, Katarina, leads me to a treatment room and outlines the ‘Be Balanced’ experience I’m about to have.  One of the most popular treatments during winter, Be Balanced is designed to soothe and invigorate.  As Katarina mentions mung seed pillows and peppermint and dill butter, I have to stifle a giggle because it sounds like she’s describing a salad.  They do have a purpose, however – the pillows are heated to “dissolve tension” and the butter smoothes skin into a silky medium for massage.

Katarina begins by using hot towels and lathering my feet in a birch-infused lotion, then wrapping them in a layer of plastic and a further fluffy towel.  She then works on my entire body, interspersing her host of intriguing tools with her hands.  I must admit that I’m glad I didn’t see them before the session began – ‘round stone pillows’ for example.  However, Katarina’s deft movements must have the Midas touch as my limbs definitely feel lighter.  But the best thing about Be Balanced is my masseuse’s hands – aided by the organic, divine smelling butter, Katarina explains that she follows the lymphatic lines of the body, which, with the heated mung pillows, will help it gently re-align.

The treatment finishes up a blissful two hours later with focus on the upper back, scalp and feet.  Katarina notes that I have a lot of tension in my trapezius, which she explains is ‘the only muscle connected to the brain’. She recommends always sitting with arms at a 45 degree angle and rolling your shoulders to relax.  Smiling, she says she’s never met a person who didn’t have tension there.

Venturing out to explore Raison d’Etre’s playground, I get a sort of chrysalis feeling emerging into the cool spa.  The Scandinavian penchant for clean lines spliced with the glamour of a luxury spa exists throughout.  Shimmering mosaics depicting trees and lakes contrast with the cool, shotgun-toned tiles – a far cry from the 18^th century décor I was expecting.  Raison d’Etre is mazelike, with saunas and bubble pools appearing at every turn.  The two key features though are the main pool, and sauna/plunge pool located near the ladies’ changing rooms.  I have a stroke of luck and score a swim in solitude in the main pool.  With its cascading wall waterfalls and blue-grey tones, it evokes childhood memories of exploring rockpools – the perfect place to wind down.

Relax in Raison d'Etre's luxurious plunge pool...

The true Scandinavian experience, however, can only be found in ‘det svenska badet’ – the Swedish bath.  Blending extreme temperatures is a favourite pastime whether you’re in Stockholm, Lappland, Oslo or Helsinki.  More specifically, it involves having a steaming sauna session, then launching yourself into the nearest patch of snow – or in this case, Raison d’Etre’s gorgeous plunge pool (12 degrees on the day I visited).  Needless to say, the group of American girls celebrating a hens’ weekend were a tad “surprised” after trying their luck!

A highlight is the quiet room, equipped with lounge beds, headphones playing soothing sounds and magazines.  It is here that I relax before sampling the baths, and despite the sunny weather outside, would be content to curl up in here all day.

The Raison d’Etre staff operate on a near-impeccable service level, with the exception of one cranky assistant who muttered that the reception would answer my query.  English is spoken perfectly; the only issue seems to be the keycards for the lockers (though mine worked flawlessly). There’s a word in Swedish, mysigt, which translates roughly to cosy.  The fun aspect of Raison d’Etre is the pride with which they demonstrate the Scandinavian ability to gain comfort from a sauna – even in summer.  Although Raison d’Etre avoids a formulaic approach to their massages, their combination of earthy hues, wooden textures and intensive ‘experiences’ prove that cosy can be as rejuvenating as refreshing.

The Be Balanced treatment lasts two hours and includes use of the spa. More information on Raison d’Etre Stockholm can be found online here.

Brighton's historic landmark: Palace Pier

It’s dusk when we finally arrive in Brighton and as the sun sets drowsily on another summer’s day we introduce ourselves to the town with a slow stroll down the long timbered plank that forms its landmark Palace Pier. The hazy smell of fluffy pink candyfloss and melted sugar envelops us as we walk past stalls selling ‘doughlicious doughnuts’ and a medley of processed treats to ‘Brighton up your day’. We order two watery 99s with thick drizzles of synthetic syrup and slurp contentedly onwards.

Seagulls squeal shrilly above us as a mangled log flume clanks ominously to our left and two spotty Spanish language-exchange students lock braces to our right, but despite the aggressive assault on our senses we’re charmed. Walking along this anachronistic old pier is like walking back in time and even before our 99s have soaked their cardboard-flavoured cones into pulp we’re transported to the seaside holidays we took as children. The flavours and smells and sights and feelings are the same now as they were then and it’s lovely; we retire to striped deckchairs for a few moments to rest and reminisce as the evening darkens.

But we return to the present day quickly. Looking to the shore we see a gaggle of girls in neon wigs and pink lycra screech and stumble their way along the promenade. Helpfully, they’ve emblazoned their titles on their t-shirts and we can just about see Blowjob Becky wrap her chapped lips around a Bacardi Breezer as Sex-mad Suzy vomits daintily on the blunted pebbles of Brighton Beach.

If London is the grande dame of English cities then Brighton must be the endearingly wayward aunt who routinely drinks too much sherry at parties and is starting to look a bit rough around the edges. Most who enter the town as visitors do so after travelling either for an hour by train from London, or for half an hour from Gatwick Airport, and first impressions could be considered disappointing. The old Queen’s Road that leads from the station is clogged with nondescript office blocks and a smattering of fried chicken shops, the salt air peeling their greyed facades, but it’s a depressing preamble that’s easily averted if you take an alternative route.

Brighton’s bland high streets may be depressingly indistinct but the warren of avenues that emanate from them are something special. Most famous are The Lanes, a cobbled coil of pedestrianised laneways that once housed fishermen’s homes and which are now converted to small jewellers, quirky boutiques and a clutter of independent cafes (if you get hungry one that’s in keeping with Brighton’s convivial character and particularly worth visiting is Food for Friends, which is the town’s oldest vegetarian restaurant).

Alfresco dining in vibrant North Laine

Better still, and more popular with locals, is North Laine, a nearby district that bristles with bohemia. The vintage stores here are of the old and musty stable, stocked with plenty of tat but rewarding diligent shoppers with affordable, original designs. The sprawling Snoopers’ Paradise (7-8 Kensington Garden) is the best of the bunch, with its innards a discombobulating trail of old phones, retro furniture, intriguing curios, cute dresses and handmade shoes – you could while away hours in there and many people happily do. More modern and less cluttered are the many independently run boutiques that surround it.

Nearby Jell-o was set up to rival the more stylish boutiques of London, with more experimental clothing and designers such as Vivienne Westwood regularly in stock; Hope & Harlequin, meanwhile, is a sumptuous treasure trove of individually selected vintage pieces. Custom-made jewellery and immaculately preserved dresses from the 1930s and ‘40s are specialities, although their high quality is matched by proportionately high prices. A patchwork of alfresco cafes and smoothie bars thread the remaining fragments of the Laine’s shopping streets in place, but perhaps the most pleasurable way to find refuge from the crowds is to escape to one of the residential streets nearby. Brighton’s unaffected air is evoked here too, with long rows of whitewashed cottages blotted by pastel-coloured doorways and curtained by luminescent cascades of fragrant flowers.

The natural appeal of those houses is contrasted spectacularly by what remains Brighton’s most famous (former) residence, the Royal Pavilion. Built as a home for George, the Prince Regent, at the turn of the 19^th century, the incredibly opulent, astoundingly ostentatious building was modelled on a Chinese whispers version of Oriental architecture. Arbitrarily referencing Indian palaces and Chinese courts, its confused interiors are a riot of gilded banquet halls and luxuriant ballrooms decorated in deep red and ochre. It’s hugely impressive – in the sense that it makes a huge impression – but even those with the most muted of tastes in interior design won’t fail to appreciate its beguiling peculiarity.

Wherever you stay is likely to seem almost desperately mundane in comparison but Brighton has plenty of excellent accommodation options. Connected to the Hotel du Vin next door, the Pub du Vin retains an intimate feel with its 11 rooms inspired by Brighton’s coastal setting. Their bleached timber floors are offset by salvaged pieces of driftwood, deckchair stripes and whimsical old photos of the town, while the pub itself serves a commendable selection of British beers and ales and European wines.

The Royal Pavilion's ornate Banquet Hall

We chose to stay somewhere with even more local character, however, and selected the independently run Guest and the City near the waterfront. A converted townhouse operated by Chris and his partner Ben, it’s one of a number of guesthouses and B&Bs that are long-established family businesses. And, of course, staying in someone’s home is a much more intimate way of experiencing a destination. Chris was on hand to give an honest appraisal of what was and was not worth doing in the city, lend us DVDs from his private collection if the weather proved inclement and, most importantly, rustle up a revitalising homemade breakfast if we managed to make it from bed before 10am – we weren’t entirely successful with the last one but Brighton’s nightlife will have to take the blame for that.

And despite the initially unfavourable impression made by Blowjob Becky and her coven, Brighton’s nightlife holds its own distinct charms. The Lanes are a clamour of activity each evening, with chic cocktail bars and traditional pubs open late and busy seemingly every night of the week, while Brighton’s famous – albeit somewhat dated – gay scene is another adjunct specific to the town. The best place to take Brighton in, however, remains from the wooden rafters of the Palace Pier. Just across from it, the charred remains of the town’s West Pier – destroyed by fire in 2003 – curl from the English Channel like arthritic fingers and the long expanse of stony Brighton Beach bustles with hens and stags, countryside day-trippers and migrant city slickers, sunburnt families and tanned young surfers. It may not be the archetypical seaside vista of shimmering inlets and virgin sands, but as a synopsis of all that’s good and bad and ugly and beautiful about this multifaceted and mesmerising country, Brighton stands fast as the definitive Great British beach break.

Face the elements from the relaxation terrace

Let’s start with the lipstick-red hot tubs. Set at the edge of the reed-filtered outdoor pool with soaring views over Mawgan Porth beach, a steep 100-foot-long stroll below, they are the perfect metaphor for this hotel: sexy, unique, sumptuous and sleek.

There are two of them blushing playfully against the horizon, heated by a log-fired burner and filled with green-tinged water, bobbing with bundles of seaweed, algae and other mineral-rich stuff – slightly unnerving, but very good for your skin, according to the affable young lad whose job title I imagine is ‘Head of Hot Tub Operations’. Like all the staff here, he is relaxed and infectiously enthusiastic. After a spectacular drive along Cornwall’s north coast, interjected with a coastal walk at Boscastle and fish fried in beef drippings at Rick Stein’s posh Padstowe chippy, this is one hell of a fun start to our stay. All things considered – the sunset, the crashing waves, the champagne, the boyfriend – this is definitely the most spoiled I’ve felt in a long time.

From the moment you enter the Scarlet Hotel through electric doors, the hotel lobby immediately floors you. Panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows frame a gob-smacking scene: acres of sky, cresting surf, rolling green cliffs towering over an achingly cute scoop of sand… you simply couldn’t dream of a prettier setting. But the Scarlet doesn’t take a back seat to the views, bowing down with meek seaside pastels and creams – no, it is wickedly slick and gutsy, decorated with flashes of colour and humour borrowing from London’s Soho Hotel school of cool. As we stand gawping at the view, at the kitsch Missoni-print sofas and the funky local art, a laidback Aussie girl sits us down for a chat. We are free to wander round the hotel in the Scarlet’s dressing gowns and curl up in any nook we like the look of, she tells us, as she shows us round an interconnecting nest of terraces, bars, lounges, restaurant, library and chill-out-room-cum-yoga-studio, all spread over three tiered levels.

But it’s not just the easygoing atmosphere and casual chic of The Scarlet that places it light years ahead of other coastal properties – its innovative design heralds a new era of high-end eco luxury in the UK. Yes it looks gorgeous, and yes, there’s lots of weathered wood, but the ‘eco’ element here isn’t greenwashing; there are no less than 101 sustainable initiatives (so says the welcome booklet in our room), including a biomass boiler system, rain-water harvesting, solar panelling, locally sourced food and a 10% discount for guests arriving by foot, bike or public transport.

One look at the car park, though, backed up with Mercs, BMWs and the odd Ferrari, will tell you this is not for the dreadlocked masses. However, despite rooms costing from £180-£430 (€212-€510) per night the vibe here is completely unpretentious. This is Cornwall as it should be, with an eco conscience and a good deal of seaside fun – it just comes with a serious dose of sex appeal this time. And as it’s a “grown-ups only” hotel, it is blissfully free of screaming kids, perfect for a romantic getaway, a girlie spa weekend, or a peaceful beach break for any stressed-out city-dweller.

Back to those rooms: they are quite stunning. Categorised as ‘Just Right’, ‘Generous’, ‘Unique’, ‘Spacious’ and ‘Indulgent’, all 37 are roomy and sun-drenched, laid out in open-plan style (be prepared for nakedness – bathtubs stand unashamedly within the bedroom). They come with a flat screen TV, hanging felt lamps, wood-stencilled wall trees and, with our “Just Right” room, a garden terrace of sage-coloured sea thrift, swaying reeds and hypnotic sea views.

The very aptly-named 'Just Right' room

And if you’re not sufficiently soothed by all this, follow the sweet wafts of organic Tri-Dosha oils through the hallways towards the canvas-tented spa, cocooned at the heart of the hotel. Ayurvedic treatments include seaweed baths, hammam body scrubs and deep-tissue massages, which you can follow with relaxation time in the steam room, sauna or heated indoor pool, and conclude with a snooze in one of the hanging womb-like cushioned “pods”.

I’m loathe to talk about the Scarlet’s shortcomings – it is so damn close to perfect – but this young hotel has one teething issue: restaurant service is too slow for a luxury hotel. Granted, I visited in the last weekend in June – the busiest since their September launch, I suspect. During dinner we waited half an hour between our first course (succulent homemade terrine, by the way) and second course (sublime chunky monkfish). The next morning several tables waited impatiently for breakfast (an amazing selection of sautéed apples and yogurt, scrambled eggs and kippers, amongst other things); when the food’s this good it’s such a pity to have to wait for it. One woman was in a flap about being late for her spa appointment – how ironic to be in this absurdly picturesque setting, awaiting a massage and stressing out about our untimely kippers. I sensed we all felt awkwardly guilty about it, too. Were we not mellow enough for this dreamy Cornish eco-pad?

Nevertheless, and despite not getting my coffee fix quickly enough, I still fell head over heels in love with the Scarlet. The perfect marriage of nature and design, humour and heart, this is more than just a hotel, it’s an experience.

Next time, I’m extremely tempted to see what these blustery Atlantic views look like in winter. I shall swap martini cocktails for mulled wine, the log fires will be crackling, and mmm, those red-hot hot tubs will be even more sizzling…

For more information and bookings, see the Scarlet Hotel’s website.

A tour of the Scarlet Hotel…