Sleek marble and 1930's murals in the bar

There may be no better place to discover the true meaning of La Dolce Vita than Rome. Although the Italian capital may have changed somewhat since the famous film graced the silver screen, there is no doubt that it is still a city packed with all the finest things of life.

In the heart of one of Rome’s chicest districts is the 5-star Boscolo Palace Roma – an 87 room boutique hotel, bursting with style and originality. It’s the latest addition to Marriott’s Autograph Collection, a select few hotels in the brand which have been singled out for their unique style and guaranteed exceptional level of luxury.

The elegant exterior of the Boscolo Palace Roma, with its wrought iron gates and period stucco work, is indicative of the grandness that awaits within, but barely hints at the almost achingly cool décor. In the public areas classic white marble is contrasted with sleek modern furnishings and occasional splashes of bright tones that almost glow against the icy paleness. This white marble and contemporary styling continues into the bedrooms, with a scattering of exquisite designer furniture and crisp white linens. Here, however, the vibrant colours give way to more muted pinks and greys and the result is soft and restful – an oh-so-chic oasis in the heart of the eternal city.

The bathrooms are equally luxurious with deep bathtubs or huge walk-in showers. I was especially taken with the amenities, a selection of brightly coloured bottles with scents to suit every mood. Choosing my shampoo, conditioner, shower gel and moisturiser I felt like a child in a candy store, bewitched by the large selection and rainbow hues.

I stayed in an Executive Room on the fifth floor – a coveted location as it is the only floor in the hotel to have a balcony. The terrace, complete with sun loungers for warmer days, was the perfect place to enjoy a morning cappuccino or early evening prosecco while taking in the sights and sounds of Via Vittorio Veneto below. The fashionable district is home to numerous cafes, restaurants and designer boutiques, and is within easy reach of a metro station and a short walk to the iconic Trevi Fountain, as long as you can find your way through Rome’s maze of winding streets.

After a day exploring, or before an evening out, a visit to the hotel’s brand new Kami Spa, which offers a range of authentic Asian treatments including Chinese plantar reflexology and a Japanese style “onsen” tub filled with mineral rich water to relax and purify the body, is guaranteed to make you feel a million dollars.

Boscolo Palace Roma is a sublime fusion of contemporary and classic, the epitome of luxury and style; a place where the spirit of la dolce vita truly lives on.

A chic, modern interior contrasts with the iconic Roman sights from the balcony in one of the hotel's Executive Rooms..

The sun-soaked grounds of the Masseria

Think picture postcard Italy and you will probably hit upon an image much like Puglia’s Masseria San Domenico. With its whitewashed walls, sun-soaked olive groves, golf course and private beach by the Adriatic coast, it’s certainly easy on the eye. In fact the Puglia region in general, nestled in the ‘heel’ of Italy’s south easternmost coast, is fast becoming a magnet for holidaymakers who are drawn to its rustic charm and mouth-watering seafood.

I’m here in Puglia to sample this slice of Italian luxury. A five-star boutique hotel, the Masseria has been voted one of the best spa destinations in the country and is part of the prestigious Leading Spa Hotels of the World collection, an accolade richly deserved for pioneering thalassotherapy in southern Italy. I’m eager to dip my toes into the Masseria’s concept of seawater beauty; from relaxing hydrobaths to invigorating Vichy showers and deeply restful waterbeds, I’m told every trickle of water is exploited.

Made with Amore

On my arrival, it’s clear that the Masseria, a 47-room converted 14th century watchtower, used by the Knights of Malta to guard against Saracen attacks, doesn’t skimp on opulence. Accessible only via a private gated road, the hotel stands within 60 hectares of ancient olive trees and citrus orchards – a scent that delicately dances around the property. Inside, my suite is generous to say the least, filled with colourful and intricate rugs and bedding unique to the region, plush dark furniture expertly carved, and state-of-the-art TV and DVD to boot. It seems the hotel doesn’t do things by halves. This is also true of the spa. Perfectly situated next to the sea, the wellbeing offering has taken on the true tenants of thalassotherapy and executed it with aplomb.

A Sea of Beauty

Growing in popularity across Europe, thalasso – a philosophy of harnessing fresh seawater and its unique properties to enhance our health and beauty – has found a soaring fanbase at the Masseria, and Italy overall. Since it’s only 800 metres from the sea, the Masseria pumps fresh seawater into the spa’s treatment rooms and pools through its own bore. The water, it is believed, contains immeasurable nutrients and trace elements of magnesium, potassium, calcium, sodium and iodine which are absorbed through the skin. It’s certainly a spa service that is taken seriously for its health benefits, and it’s with great care that they introduce and treat guests to the thalasso therapies. Before I step into the 22-room spa, an initial consultation is performed in order to receive the right services from a choice of facials, baths, massages and wraps, to delicious and nutritious meals. Forget ‘one-size-fits-all’, everything here is made-to-measure.

With the consultation out of the way, it’s time to de-robe. I’m given a trio of Thalgo treatments: exfoliation, body wrap and massage. Each 45-minute therapy incorporates fresh seawater that’s doused over me to cleanse or invigorate, alongside so-called ‘miracle’ muds from the sea which are slathered on to smooth even the most parched skin. As one of the leading names in thalassotherapy, I know I’m in expert hands with Thalgo and they don’t disappoint. I’m left supple and serene – albeit smelling of the sea!

 Local Appeal

Aside from the thalasso section, the two-storey spa also plumps for authenticity from outside of Europe, with Indian-style ayurveda including shirodhara, and Thai massages on tap. I’m also introduced to its olive oil skincare range, containing moisturisers and masks, which are crafted with the hotel’s very own olive crop. It’s evident the Masseria is keen to promote Puglia’s distinctive local flavour – something that’s lapped up by the tourists who come via two nearby airports, Brindisi and Bari.

Judging by Puglia’s most well-known fans, it’s set to get even more popular. This European destination has romanced the likes of Dame Helen Mirren, Francis Ford Coppola and even Mikhail Gorbachev, who’ve embraced the slow local life. Boasting more than 800km of coastline on the Adriatic and Ionian, Puglia also lays claim to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and is producer of 40% of the country’s olive oil and 17% of Italian wine. The Masseria has capitalised on the hike in interest by delivering a first class hotel and spa experience – one that leaves me saying si to more spa breaks.

From its azure waters to the rejuvenating spa, the Masseria San Domenico hotel offers a generous slice of five-star Italian luxury

A striking sculpture on show at the villas

There’s a wild blueberry bush by my foot and a colony of ants anxious to explore the inside of my shoe. On the other side of the tree line, the shimmering golden-brown water of Lake Saimaa sparkles in the sunlight, while above my head, the bright green larches creak gently in the breeze. As an introduction to Finland, the gorgeously pretty Lakeland region takes some beating and it’s only two and a half hours north of Helsinki. The country might be better known for its sub-zero temperatures (although in the summer, they can get well into the twenties) and as the home of St. Nick but Finland is famous for something else as well: the national love of a decent holiday cottage.

France might be famed for its gîtes and Russia for its dachas but Finland’s answer – the mökki – could give either a run for their money. The country has over 500,000 of them – a lot, considering that the population totals barely 5.4 million. Existing in splendid isolation in the midst of one of the many forested areas, perched on a golden sand beach or nestled on a tiny island, Finland’s mökki offer solitude, complete privacy and a real sense of tranquillity that’s hard to find elsewhere. While mökki can be found (and rented) all over Finland, one of the prettiest and most popular spots for a mökki break is Lake Saimaa – home to the Anttolanhovi Wellness Village.

Don’t be put off by the scrubbed sounding name: Anttolanhovi might be about wellness but it’s the feel good sort, rather than an enforced detox and hiking regime. Only 20 kilometres from regional hub, Mikkeli, Anttolanhovi is close enough to town for an urbanite not to feel completely lost, but far enough away to benefit from rural peace and quiet. Perched on the curve of a lakeshore bay, the village, with its wooden hotel and gaggle of cottages, peeps out from the heavy forest and has spectacular views of the lake. There are two big beaches, a smoke sauna, plentiful blueberry picking opportunities and a couple of excellent restaurants. And, then, there are the Art and Design Villas.

While the majority of mökki tend to be comfortable but basic affairs, Anttolanhovi’s Art and Design Villas are something else entirely. A platform for some of Finland’s hottest up-and-coming young artists; each of the 19 wooden eco-villas is individually designed and display the legendary Scandinavian flair in full measure. Not surprisingly, none of the young artists chosen has wasted the opportunity: instead producing interiors that are somewhere between gallery and ultra chic – if homely – abode. Some of the artists, Hanna Vahvaselkä, Rauha Mäkilä, Antti Keitilä and Johanna Ilvessalo among them, proved more minimally inclined than others, but none of the villas have a painting or sculpture-free room. Ours even had a sculpture hanging from the ceiling in the entrance hall.

Artwork apart, the Anttolanhovi mökki are comfortably large, with each of their three bedrooms benefiting from two utterly squashy single beds. Each also has a sauna, although the larger traditional version on the beach is not to be missed – self-flagellation with birch twigs and cooling dip in the lake included. The bathrooms are a little disappointing in comparison to the rest but do have everything you need. The kitchen, on the other hand, was a Scandinavian design addict’s dream, complete with Marimekko mugs and black marble worktops. Outside, wooden walkways and a wide expanse of decking lead down to the lake where you’ll find a private jetty with your own boat. While I didn’t use the boat, the jetty did come in handy as the springboard for a morning dip in the lake, whose chilly waters proved as effective as a box of Pro Plus in the waking up stakes.

I didn’t use the kitchen much either but since the villas are fully serviced – including a carb-heavy but thoroughly delicious breakfast spread delivered at 8am on the dot – it wasn’t really needed. The kitchen was rendered even more redundant by the food on offer at the village’s restaurant, Kota. Presided over by Finnish celebrity chef, Markus Maulavirta, Kota’s kitchen specialises in fresh, local fare – think pike and salmon from the lake, with wild blueberries for dessert. It also offers some of the unusual locally made berry wines, including a tart raspberry flavoured tipple that tasted like a sharper version of Chambord. Also good was the traditional ruisleipä or rye bread – a local speciality that apart from tasting great; was practically the only thing that resembled the fare on offer at a typical health farm.

Ruisleipä aside, Anttolanhovi Wellness Village is not the place for fitness freaks looking for a boot camp style experience. Instead, imagine Center Parcs with a massive added dose of luxury, a sprinkling of ultra hip artwork and more than edible food, and you’re some of the way there. Don’t expect wild parties; for that head to Helsinki. But if you’re after somewhere you can sit back, chill out with a trashy novel and eat really well while you’re at it, Anttolanhovi could be just what you’re looking for.

For more information, see the Anttolanhovi Wellness Village website; prices start at €690 per night. Finnair flies from London Heathrow to Helsinki from £155 return. From Helsinki, take the train to Mikkeli, near Anttola.

A platform for some of Finland’s hottest up-and-coming young artists; each of the 19 wooden eco-villas is individually designed...

Cameron House by tranquil Loch Lomond

Iconic, steeped in history and quite simply breathtaking, Loch Lomond is one of the most beautiful parts of Scotland, and I should know, because I’m Scottish! I recently ventured back to my homeland for an overnight stay at the luxurious Cameron House, voted most stylish Scottish hotel 2009 at the Scottish Style Awards.  Part of the exclusive De Vere Collection, Cameron House has adopted numerous guises over the years, including that of an elegant baronial mansion. It underwent extensive refurbishment in 2008 and features a range of plush guest rooms, suites and timber lodges.

After one of the friendliest welcomes I’ve received from a hotel reception, we were escorted to our suite, named after a Scotch single malt whisky called Glenkinchie. It even had its own private staircase – impressive indeed. The suite featured a cosy living area, bedroom and generously sized bathroom. As you might expect, tartan adorned the walls, complemented by ornate mirrors and atmospheric lamps. The stags’ heads in the bedroom were a little unnerving though – were they watching us? Marble his-and-her wash basins and a monsoon-style shower were just some of the features in the bathroom. There was also a freestanding bath, perfect for having a “Cadbury’s Flake” moment…

The Lure of the Loch

After unpacking the essentials, we swiftly made our way down to the marina. The champagne cruise aboard the Celtic Warrior is one of the best ways to see the loch, which is 24 miles long and five miles wide. As tufts of cloud swept over the surrounding hilltops, the boat meandered between the loch’s many islands. Each island and passing residence has its own story and our guide offered a range of anecdotes, including stories about a castle that was deliberately set alight and a boatsman who crashed into the golf course.

It wasn’t long before we emerged onto the deck, glass of bubbly in hand. A head scarf à la Grace Kelly would have been a very useful accessory at this point, but I would have to make do with my woolly hat instead. The journey back (which included an unusual spotting of a white deer) was quite thrilling as the boat picked up its speed to head back towards the marina. Cameron House also offers activities like archery, quad biking and clay pigeon shooting, and for a spectacular birds-eye view of the loch, there’s also a seaplane that operates over the summer months, priced at £99 per person for a half-hour flight.

Spa Delights

A trip to The Spa at The Carrick – voted Scotland’s best hotel spa for two years in a row at the Scottish Hotel Awards - was next on our itinerary and this was something I was very much looking forward to. Its hydro and thermal experiences are the perfect way to detox and rejuvenate the body. An infra-red sauna, hydrotherapy pool and tepidarium, with its contoured thermal couches, are just a few of the experiences on offer. I particularly liked the hammam steam room – the humidity was intense but I was determined to stick it out! Refreshing cold mist and tropical showers rehydrate the skin in between your visit to each of the wet and dry rooms. Pampering treatments are also available, including the Aromatic Sugar Body Polish, Hot Rainshower Massage and Carita Hot Stone Caress. The nearby Beauty Bar also offers Fake Bake sprays, eyelash tints and other treatments.

The highlight to The Carrick, though, is the rooftop infinity pool where the water cascades over the edge of the building. Walking up to the pool wearing just my costume with rain drops trickling down my skin, I was beginning to think I was a tad crazy, but once I submerged myself in the warmth of the water with steam rising onto my face, it was worth it. On a clear day, the pool makes an excellent vantage point for catching Ben Lomond in the distance. On our visit, clouds obscured our view but we did catch a glimpse of a pompous pheasant strutting around.

Cameron House's rooftop infinity pool

Come Dine with Me

The hotel boasts four restaurants, each having its own distinct character and tantalising menu. The Cameron Grill oozes sophistication with its dark furnishings and modern tartan seats, and it even has a walk-in wine cellar and an eye-catching 28ft mural of a vagabonds’ banquet. Breakfast is held in The Cameron Grill, so even if you don’t dine in here in the evening, you’ll still get the chance to take a peek at the mural. A few minutes’ drive away is The Claret Jug which is popular with guests making use of the surrounding 18-hole golf course and its menu features hearty fare like Winston Churchill Venison Sausages. Alternatively, Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond offers an altogether classier dining experience, with its elegant interior finished in heather and moss green to complement the nearby Scottish Highlands.

We dined in The Boathouse, a lovely New England-style restaurant situated next to the loch. Blue and cream hues dominate the decor, with miniature boats dotted around the restaurant and paddles fixed to the walls. Our table was positioned in an enviable spot next to the window, overlooking the loch. As darkness gradually seeped into the surroundings, the water eventually disappeared from sight.

The Boathouse’s menu offers a range of dishes that will, like us, leave you unable to make a quick decision – from Loch Creran Oysters and sticky barbecued ribs to stone-baked pizzas and carbonara. I opted for the day’s special – fresh fillet of salmon served with Cajun spiced potatoes and caper butter sauce. The fish was deep pink in colour and it softly broke apart with a touch of the knife. The Cajun potatoes complemented the salmon beautifully, adding a teeny kick to the dish. My boyfriend plumped for the Aberdeen Angus beef burger with cheese and bacon, presented on a chopping board alongside a portion of spicy rooster wedges. He polished it off fairly quickly, but not before I managed to steal a few of his thick-cut wedges – very tasty!

Rounding off the evening, we retreated back to Cameron House to enjoy a few drinks in the Great Scots Bar. Comfy sofas and cushions accentuate its laid back ambience and it’s the perfect place to do some star spotting – on the walls, that is. Photographs of iconic Scottish characters from both the past and present adorn the walls and they make a great talking point.

Exhausted from our busy day, we didn’t make it past midnight before heading back to our sumptuous room for a cosy night’s sleep. We could have stayed much longer, but I would say that to fully appreciate the hotel and its wonderful location on the banks of the loch you should stay at least two nights. And if you’re keen to explore the surrounding area, give Glencoyne Malt Whisky Distillery, Inverary Castle or the charming village of Luss a try.

Rooms at Cameron House cost from £179. Book a stay in one of the opulent Whisky Suites and if it rains during your stay you can enjoy a complimentary night’s stay on your next visit. The No-Rain Guaranteed package includes dinner, breakfast, a champagne cruise and massage for two and costs £995.

Iconic, steeped in history and quite simply breathtaking, peaceful Loch Lomond is one of the most beautiful parts of Scotland...

Le Mas Candille's candle-lit courtyard

It’s less than two weeks since I bid farewell to Le Mas Candille, but back in the cold harsh light of the office, it already feels like a distant dream. This 18^th Century farmhouse-turned-luxury-5-star abode, nestled within 10 acres of private manicured lawns, winding paths and a generous smattering of rich green cypress, olive and pine trees, is barely noticeable until you reach the grand entrance gates. Perfectly positioned high up in the valleys, there’s the medieval town of Mougins, former home to Picasso and current champion of gastronomy, on its doorstep, and Cannes and Grasse are just a short drive away. There’re plenty of things to see and do for foodies, explorers and shoppers alike – if you can pull yourself away from the hotel that is.

Within Le Mas Candille’s manicured grounds, there are three outdoor heated pools and a Jacuzzi, the Shiseido spa – the first of its kind in Europe, Michelin-Star restaurant looking out on to immense views, and an outstanding staff that welcomes you with a big, fat, unpretentious bear hug.

It’s clear that Le Mas Candille’s designers havae given due consideration to the property’s traditional roots, with the overall effect one of luxury comfort, rather than pretension and stuffiness. From the Bar du Mas – its roaring log fire and velvet buttoned couches make it a room you could linger in until the early hours, supping Cointreau and swapping tales – to the artwork dotted around the walls and grounds; to the blackcurrant-decorated Villeroy & Boch crockery used at breakfast, there are plenty of little touches that make Le Mas Candille feel like a home from home, albeit one that’s been given a massive Lottery Jackpot-winning makeover.

I’m not the only one to have noticed and appreciated its charms, the private location and close proximity to star-studded Cannes has seen the hotel attract a few big names in its time. Le Mas Candille, however, is not one to boast. In fact, despite my best journalistic probing and friendliest smile, they remain frustratingly tight-lipped (some might say refreshingly discreet) when it comes to divulging their previous A-list clientele. Luckily there’s the hotel guest book which lies open in reception and reads like an autograph pad. A surreptitious glance reveals Johnny Depp stayed here with Vanessa Paradis, while Javier Bardem and Penelope Cruz cosyed up here prior to my stay.

Oh how the other half live, I think as I explore my suite. A space on a par with my London flat, though with the type of luxury that wouldn’t look out of place on Grand Designs. There’s plenty of swanky entertainment: two large flat-screen TVs, a Nespresso coffee machine and iPod speaker dock; and homely comforts: massive white cottoned-swathed bed with a come hither stack of fluffy pillows; mammoth dressing room; fluffy white robes and slippers, and more than enough toiletries to see one through a long weekend. The list of treats goes on, though there is a price for such luxury. The most expensive rooms in the property, they cost from €895-€1,400 a night, significantly more than the €295-a-night price tag for a standard room. But just look at the view! Floor-to-ceiling glass sliding doors running the length of the room take you out on to a private patio which looks across the expansive Provencal countryside, Grasse town and the snow-peaked pre-Alps. If it wasn’t for the lure of fantastic food, as well as a packed itinerary of activities lined up, I’d have struggled to peel myself away.

Pampering

First on the agenda is a trip to the Shiseido spa for a much-needed post-travel facial. Unfortunately I forgot to put my clock forward to French time so arrived flustered and 30 minutes late, but my lovely therapist was unperturbed and quickly had me settled into one of the warm, comfortable treatment rooms. Roll on the quickest 45 minutes of my life, where a plethora of masks, oils and moisturisers were expertly applied using Shiseido’s signature Qi Method, and I was left in a semi-comatose state.  All the moisture lost from the flight and wine-fuelled lunch was massaged back in, and then some, and the ruddiness my complexion had adopted during the winter was replaced with the sort of healthy glow I’d only have thought possible using Photoshop trickery. Luckily I didn’t have my credit card to hand, or I would have snapped up the whole Shiseido range there and then.

Home-grown lemons at Le Mas Candille

Perfume

A day trip down to Grasse – the perfume capital of the world – allowed us to take a stroll around the Old Town and its charming narrow streets, pavement cafes, sunny yellow buildings and duck-egg blue wooden shutters, and a tour of the International Museum of Perfumerie. It’s the biggest in the world – and a bargain at €4 per adult – and includes a sensory room, a maze of sections exploring the ways perfumes have been applied and packaged through the ages, from Egyptian mummification to the present day, and the piece de resistance, Marie Antoinette’s infamous travelling case.

At the Fragonard perfumery across the road, we took part in a two-hour Tarinology Workshop, a fun and insightful lesson on the correct way to smell and create scents, which culminated in the creation of our very own eau de colognes. Leading up to the day, I’d already decided my perfect fragrance would involve hints of vanilla and Earl Grey tea (Bergamot), so when I was presented with the latter as one of the three citrus base notes I was already in my element. Vanilla wasn’t in our mix of essential oils for the day, so I gradually added minute drops of Neroli, Mandarin, Verbena, Petit-Grain, Rosemary and Lavender, one by one, until I had a 100ml bottle of something even Napoleon, who would get through 60 litres of eau de cologne a month, might deem worthy of dousing himself in. The one and only sample of my newly created and labelled Sweet Grey, is a spicy fresh scent, not dissimilar to my favourite warm beverage. Not quite in the same league as my beloved Victor & Rolf Flowerbomb, but a nice room or bath essence all the same.

Food, glorious food

When I wasn’t out and about, exploring some of the French Riveira’s finest offerings, I was back at the hotel eating. Every single morsel Restaurant Candille put before me during my stay was fantastic, the type of food that brings an appreciative silence to the table. I managed to breakfast, lunch and dinner like a king, and was lucky enough to sample multiple-courses from chef Serge Gouloumes’s Michelin-starred kitchen. Lots of fresh fish served in an array of beautifully presented, palate-pleasing ways. The lightly spiced Scampi “a la nage” with hints of coconut and lemongrass was a particular highlight. A gold leaf-topped chocolate fondant which oozed deliciously upon impact, and the after-dessert sweet trolley, piled with various macaroons and marshmallows, were equally well-received. Then there’s the cheese trolley, boasting an array of soft, tasty and darn right smelly delights; oh how I miss that cheese trolley. It’s clear to see why people travel from all over just to dine here.

Sadly time does fly when you’re having fun, and the trip was over before I knew it. En-route to the airport I felt rather melancholy to be leaving after such a relaxing couple of days. I’ve spent week-long holidays, lying around on a beach, and still haven’t returned home feeling quite so relaxed and rejuvenated. A combination of the right tsubo points being pressed in the Shiseido spa, plenty of lounging in my lagoon-like bath, an array of memorable foods, and picture-perfect surroundings… and to think it rained the whole time too. Le Mas Candille boasts quite a package, one that warrants every one of its 5 stars. Like most good things in life, I’m still hankering after my next fix.

Le Mas Candille's spectacular outdoor pool

One of Luton Hoo's sumptuous suites

I could start by saying I’m indebted to Dame Maggie Smith, but aren’t we all? More specifically then, I should say I’m indebted to Downton Abbey, as without it I may never have discovered Luton Hoo. The recently concluded period drama saw Smith head a troupe of tuxedo-attired gentlemen and ball gown-clad ladies as they pottered primly from sumptuous dinner to lavish party all within the lush expanse of the lavish Downton Abbey estate. A Sunday night phenomenon, the production’s dramatic flourishes left audiences riveted rather than battling rigor mortis and so it is that a languorous laze in a stately home has suddenly usurped flashy stays at boutique hotels as Britons’ desired weekend break of choice.

As long as that stately home isn’t Downton Abbey itself, of course. Back in the real world, the Abbey is in fact Highclere Castle and its owners, the Earl and Countess of Carnarvon, rather haughtily refuse to let strangers overnight there. But a quick trawl online revealed that the magnificent Luton Hoo is far more accessible. About an hour from central London, the 400-year-old mansion is now a hotel and spa cushioned from modern-day Luton by the 1000 acres of fields and woodland that surround it. We entered the grounds by taxi, the long avenue to the property draped with a sweep of golden leaves and the path before us unimpeded save for some lazy peasants who witlessly perched themselves in the middle of the road. Sorry, that should read pheasants – one acquires the Downton Abbey vocabulary almost automatically in this type of surrounding.

Fowl bypassed, Luton Hoo gradually emerged and it’s rather impressive.  The property opened in its current form in 2007 following a renovation and refurbishment programme that, according to one of the staff, “cost £60million, give or take a bob or two”. And it shows. The first thing that hits you once you enter the lobby – after the warming aroma of the wood fire crackling in the hearth – is just how gloriously, unashamedly grand everything is. A mass of sparkling chandeliers cascade from the double-height ceilings; deep, plush carpets are flourished with floral swirls; a marble angel stretches its wings somewhat camply against the momentous marble staircase that spirals upstairs. The bedrooms themselves are impressively spacious and conservatively furnished, aimed more at traditionalists than trendsetters. Instead of fiddling with an iPod dock we slowed down and admired the valance; rather than feel compelled to explore adjacent bars and clubs we lingered over the view of frost-tinged woodland that stretched from our window. And that night we slept so soundly, with no unnecessary distractions and little to do but rest, relax and recharge.

Of course the day-time programme at Luton Hoo makes that easier still. A five-minute walk from the main property lies the estate’s spa – and a number of rooms within converted outbuildings but it’s best to stay in the more atmospheric and impressive main mansion. The spa’s most expansive space is the timber-framed pool and Jacuzzi area, which is furnished simply with loungers, magazines and a no-under-16s-allowed policy, all of which went down well with us (particularly the latter feature). A small gym lies two doors down and although it’s well-equipped it lacked its own changing facilities meaning sweat-soaked users have to drip back to the main changing rooms after a workout. The spa facilities in the main complex are better. The treatments use specially created organic products derived from ingredients that were traditionally grown on Luton Hoo’s grounds, like camomile and bergamot, and our massage was expertly administered and deeply relaxing. Perhaps best of all though was the spa’s post-treatment room. Unlike a lot of city-centre spas that spit their customers out onto a busy street as soon as their appointment time is up, guests at the Luton Hoo spa can cocoon themselves in a dimly lit relaxation suite after their treatment and come back to consciousness at their own pace – with little to distract them save a burst of tropical fish that shimmer from the room’s aquarium.

Wernher Restaurant's ornate interior

It’s important to try to perk up in time for dinner though as it’s an integral part of the Luton Hoo experience. The Wernher Restaurant is the main dining area at the hotel and is among the most impressive rooms in the manor. Glossed, hand-carved banks of emerald and burgundy marble stretch to the ceiling of what is one of the most beautifully ornate restaurants I’ve eaten in, and a sense of old-fashioned quality exudes throughout. Given the surroundings we were thankful we’d made an effort with our dress – indeed we were obliged to as formalwear is requested after 7pm – but we dined in style for less than we would have anticipated. On the Sunday we ate there three courses were charged at a very reasonable £32 and the menu stuck by and large to classic British fare that was simply cooked and beautifully presented. Except, that is, for the ‘surf and turf’ whose somewhat unsophisticated fusion of chicken wings and shrimp is something I’d more commonly expect to see on the menu at my local TGI Friday’s.

The highlight, though, came at the very end of the meal, when we were told that dessert wasn’t listed on the menu but instead a selection would be brought to us. With that, our charming waitress Carmen pushed a rickety trolley our way and proceeded to guide us through the treats on offer. Heavy slabs of rich chocolate cake, sweet treacle tarts, stewed pears with clotted cream and an abundance of other old-fashioned delectables were presented for our consideration and gratefully received. Twice in fact, as the disgusting speed with which we demolished our selection saw us being rewarded with the offer of seconds. Somehow I don’t think such gluttonous behaviour would have been quite so encouraged in Downton Abbey.

More information can be found on Luton Hoo’s website.

The spectacular curves of W Barcelona

A chance peek at Shakira’s latest music video first introduced me to the W Barcelona. There she is, dancing away on a moon-lit beach with those hips that don’t lie, hair flailing in the sea breeze, and in the background there lies this awesome architectural gem.

The W – or Vela (The Sail) to the locals – looks more like it should adorn the man-made beaches of Dubai, but instead sits on the coast of one of Spain’s most beloved cities.

At only one year old, the W was designed by Catalan-born postmodernist architect Ricardo Bofill. With 473 rooms and 67 suites the Starwood ‘lifestyle’ hotel is the only one with direct beach access, and forms part of the rapid emergence of the Barceloneta district as one of the city’s most fashionable areas.  The structure reaches 99 metres in height and is covered with hundreds of panes of reflective glass. Natural light is abundant, as are the sense of luxury and pervading sense of cool.

Our room was on the 19^th floor and had sensational views over the city, from La Sagrada Familia round to the Montjuic castle. The beds were particularly large, as was the shower/wet room, and there were the usual array of amenities you’d imagine in a luxury hotel. Staff claimed the hotel had high occupancy, but with prices starting from €245 for a Wonderful room and rising to a staggering €10,000 a night for the Extreme WOW Suite this isn’t a hotel for those who’ve been credit crunched.

The outside area, WET, isn’t vast, but is a perfectly formed homage to minimalist chic and the perfect destination for posing on a designer sun bed. There is a constant stream of music playing in and out, formulated by the global music director who aims to ‘capture the vibe of public spaces’, and a fashion store where you can buy luxury items specifically designed for W guests.

The basement houses a 700m² Bliss spa and its voraciously enthusiastic team of staff. This is the first Bliss to reach Spanish shores and offers the brand’s signature services, including the blissage75 75-minute massage and triple oxygen-treatment facial. There are two manicure and two pedicure nail stations, eight treatment rooms and men’s and women’s lounges for post-treatment relaxation. Treatments start from €30 for a manicure to €190 for a Ginger Rub massage. There is also the legendary brownie buffet to indulge in, should all the relaxation build up an appetite.

On the 26^th floor is the vertigo-inducing Eclipse bar (the latest venture from London’s Ignite group, the nightlife gurus behind Sloane-ranger favourites Boujis, Eclipse London, Cocoon and Bumpkin).

The hotel's bright, sweeping lobby space

Separated into two areas, one for the smokers and one for the non, this lounge bar has 360° views of the sparkling city. With capacity for 200 people, the low tables and plush sofas aim to welcome an array of global jetsetters and the local glitterati.

Head bartender Patrick Weber is poised to tantalise your taste buds with his alcoholic infusions. My equally lightweight friend and I got fantastically tipsy on watermelon and passion fruit martinis, accompanied by ‘Rasbaby’ shots.

The W signature restaurant, Bravo24, is a popular choice for guests who don’t fancy the trip into town. We unfortunately couldn’t get a table as it gets booked weeks in advance, but had an envious look at the mouth-watering menu. Bravo24 is the latest venture in Spanish Chef Carles Abellán’s cutting edge culinary collection that includes famed Tapas bar Tapaç24, and the Michelin star-rated Comerç24.

The main components in Bravo24’s cuisine are meat, fish and seafood, which are brought to life with Abellan’s unique culinary personality and experience. We were assured that all of the products had been carefully selected through local markets, artisan growers and fisheries, as well as from nationally and internationally renowned organic farms. And there’s a price to match, with a three-course meal coming in at around €80 a head.

If you can overlook the saccharine greetings of the over-zealous staff (or ‘Talent’ as they’re called, much to our amusement, as most aren’t short of good looks), have no objection to paying €4.50 for a cafe con leche, and fancy a bit of Whatever. Whenever. Wherever, then the W is a super place to kick back and indulge.

For more information see the W Barcelona website.

Ancient and imposing: Ashford Castle in County Mayo

The twisting country road leading to Ashford Castle Hotel reveals seductive glimpses of the building at every bend. All regal and elegant, poised at the edge of the River Cong against a spectacular backdrop of forests and mountains, its charming exterior begs the question:  will its interior delight or disappoint?

With over eight centuries of history seeping through its roots, Ashford Castle is a living legacy. Since the laying of its first stone in 1228, it has been home to the Guinness family, film setting for John Ford’s movie classic The Quiet Man and undergone a facelift to transition into the modern hotel that is it today. It’s no wonder that A-list personalities such as Pierce Brosnan and Brad Pitt have chosen to stay here.

The fairytale-like castle entrance itself is a grand statement; the wrought iron gate gives way to the hotel’s sprawling grounds and a 9-hole par 35 Parkland golf course. My partner and I weave through the emerald greenery on our rented Fiat, crossing an ancient stone bridge that eventually leads to the stately castle building. The medieval atmosphere is contagious here; even the hotel’s staff – clad in tall hats and tailored suits – are reminiscent of 15^th century noblemen.

Inside, the polished teak-floored lobby is surprisingly cosy and welcoming. A blazing fireplace, right next to the inviting leather sofa booth, provides a warm respite from the howling Irish winds. The plush, antique décor spells out elegance and sophistication: golden-framed paintings, fragile china porcelain and massive chandeliers are displayed in style all over the property. Awash with antiques and memorabilia from as far back as the 11^th century, Ashford Castle is as much a museum as a hotel.

Don’t be fooled by the hotel’s solemn exterior though, there is nothing prim and proper at Ashford. The atmosphere here is warm and non-pretentious, the last thing I had expected from such an exclusive property.  Its Deputy General Manager T.J. Mulcahy explains the hotel’s approach to hospitality to me: “Most of our staff has been around for decades, they know each other as well as their own family. We treat guests like our family visitors – it’s all part of the Irish hospitality.” Warm hospitality aside, the staff keeps every single detail in mind, and we’re greeted warmly by name wherever we go.

Back in our suite, a panoramic view of Lough Corrib, Ireland’s second largest lake, unfurls upon us.  Sunlight pours in through the wide-framed windows, spotlighting our plush four-poster bed. From our generous bathroom, we get a peek of the neighbouring castle tower while soaking in the free-standing bathtub. Its 83 rooms, including five suites, are all designed to retain the original features of the castle. Although the overly coordinated fabrics and slightly outmoded furnishing might not live up to the expectations of modern-day urban jetsetters, the undying charm of the castle certainly grows on you.

Ashford Castle's ornate reception room

But Ashford Castle Hotel, constantly undergoing revamps and refurbishing, is still very much of this century. Each of its room is outfitted with the latest mod-cons such as plasma TVs and broadband internet connection. Its health and leisure centre is equipped with a brand new sauna and steam bath, wooden-planked cascade deluge showers and a bubbling whirlpool hot tub. Its glass-roofed lounge area looks out into the lulling fountain and River Cong.

In the evening, the food is of an exceptional standard. George V Dining Room, so named following the visit of the then Prince of Wales, is a highly-acclaimed restaurant in Ireland. Headed by the irrepressible Stefan Matz, winner of the Best Chef in Ireland 2010 Award (his third consecutive win), the kitchen dishes up slick yet traditional dinner menus with a modern twist.  The cuisine served is an explosion of flavours: piping hot seafood consommé accentuated with tantalising spices; pan-fried lamb fillet topped with seared sun-dried tomatoes; butter-roasted beef medallion drenched in sweet red wine gravy; and hot chocolate volcano cake to finish.

Next day, we head out to the hotel’s 350 acres of pine groves and well-kept royal gardens for a leisurely stroll. There is plenty to do within the estate: go hiking on its miles of rainforest trains, learn to fly a hawk at the residential School of Falconry, fish for trout and salmon at the lake, ride a horse at its equestrian centre or hop on a cocktail cruise along the River Cong. My only regret is that we hadn’t planned enough time to explore the castle’s ground, which looks so tempting in the rare sunny weather we enjoyed. Next time I’ll be prepared.

More information on the Ashford Castle Hotel is available online here.

The stylish and sleek reception of nhow Milan

Surrounded by seemingly every shade of grey, and then some you weren’t even aware existed, the only thing that initially stands out when you enter this industrial estate is the sharp clank of your heels on concrete. Why, you may wonder, would anyone in their right mind think it a good idea to place a design hotel slap bang in the middle of what looks like a car park, and, on top of that, one where you wouldn’t feel entirely comfortable parking your new Range?

Well, that’s exactly the point – the trendy nhow overwhelms the senses by unleashing upon the unsuspecting guest a whirl of bright reds and bold oranges and a mishmash of furniture and fittings that look like works of well-constructed modern art – or indeed are, works are on display by the likes of Jacopo Froggini and Dilmos. Against Milan’s regular palette of demure greys and sensible blacks it’s a startling blast of brashness, emphasised further by the fact that it’s all to be found amongst a dreary concrete block.

The foyer’s interior strikes a stark contrast to the surroundings outside, but at the same time happily complements it – the reception area mirrors the dark grey exterior with its stone flooring, but the space itself is more an artists’ showroom than a conventional lobby – tiered chandeliers cascade from the ceiling, walls are made from translucent strips of red plastic. Yet despite the clashes, the boldness, the Nhow pulls off the spectacular feat of appearing comfortable and welcoming, thanks to clever use of lighting and friendly service, the latter of which Milan is not typically famed for.

However, it’s more than just a desire to shock that finds Nhow in this district: Tortona is also home to Milano’s art and design industry – made fashionable by the Italian Vogue art director Flavio Lucchini and his photographer friend Fabbrizio Ferri. They moved into the area in 1983 and transformed a warehouse into a studio and Tortona hasn’t looked back since; neither has the Nhow. It’s located in the perfect setting for anyone with a creative orientation and need to access a fashion fix at very close hand, but that does remove it from the more bourgeois attractions of central Milan (it’s about 2km from the city centre). Then again, this isn’t the type of hotel that’s aimed at tourists looking for a bolthole near the Duomo – the hotel is meant to be an experience in itself. Which it most certainly is.

Rooms at nhow are bright, spacious and airy...

No two rooms are the same, and though you don’t get the same level of design decadence in a standard room as you do from the lobby, they’re certainly impressive. A minimalist style has been adopted, but not in an unforgiving manner – the room is made warmer by long drapes and a self-styled ‘colour-therapy’ shower. Admittedly that latter feature is slightly ill-conceived due to the pretty but impractical open layout – and can leave the bathroom looking as though it was used on the set of the Titanic – but then design hotels have been known to pride presentation over pragmatism.

The ‘wardrobe’ is also slightly unsatisfactory, as it’s merely a pole with some cheap hangers veiled by what seems to be an old Mosquito net – but we’re guessing that is meant to add to that industrial, fashion vibe, giving you the sense that you’ve just strolled off the catwalk and it’s time to throw on another Armani masterpiece that is hanging casually on the clothes rail. For in-room business and pleasure each room has a Wifi connection and the essential mini-bar, the cost of which can be incorporated into the base price at a reasonable rate if one so desires. The more expensive suites seem primarily designed for those away on business, and incorporate an office/meeting room into the bedroom to persuade guests to bring their work back with them – and no doubt encourage companies to use the many conference rooms that are set up within the hotel.

Moving on to gastronomy matters, Nhow has quite the reputation for its exquisite breakfast, and it certainly did not disappoint – it’s a buffet style start to the day with the freshest of food and staff on hand to attend to any of your needs. The restaurant can get a little quiet and lose some of its atmosphere when the hotel is not at its busiest, but this can be avoided by ordering room service. You’re on holiday after all and with Nhow made for the trendy fashionista; the modern art lover; or, indeed, anyone who might enjoy the different and daring scene set by the hotel, you could really make yourself at home here.

For more information on the hotel itself or to make a booking, see the nhow website.

Face the elements from the relaxation terrace

Let’s start with the lipstick-red hot tubs. Set at the edge of the reed-filtered outdoor pool with soaring views over Mawgan Porth beach, a steep 100-foot-long stroll below, they are the perfect metaphor for this hotel: sexy, unique, sumptuous and sleek.

There are two of them blushing playfully against the horizon, heated by a log-fired burner and filled with green-tinged water, bobbing with bundles of seaweed, algae and other mineral-rich stuff – slightly unnerving, but very good for your skin, according to the affable young lad whose job title I imagine is ‘Head of Hot Tub Operations’. Like all the staff here, he is relaxed and infectiously enthusiastic. After a spectacular drive along Cornwall’s north coast, interjected with a coastal walk at Boscastle and fish fried in beef drippings at Rick Stein’s posh Padstowe chippy, this is one hell of a fun start to our stay. All things considered – the sunset, the crashing waves, the champagne, the boyfriend – this is definitely the most spoiled I’ve felt in a long time.

From the moment you enter the Scarlet Hotel through electric doors, the hotel lobby immediately floors you. Panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows frame a gob-smacking scene: acres of sky, cresting surf, rolling green cliffs towering over an achingly cute scoop of sand… you simply couldn’t dream of a prettier setting. But the Scarlet doesn’t take a back seat to the views, bowing down with meek seaside pastels and creams – no, it is wickedly slick and gutsy, decorated with flashes of colour and humour borrowing from London’s Soho Hotel school of cool. As we stand gawping at the view, at the kitsch Missoni-print sofas and the funky local art, a laidback Aussie girl sits us down for a chat. We are free to wander round the hotel in the Scarlet’s dressing gowns and curl up in any nook we like the look of, she tells us, as she shows us round an interconnecting nest of terraces, bars, lounges, restaurant, library and chill-out-room-cum-yoga-studio, all spread over three tiered levels.

But it’s not just the easygoing atmosphere and casual chic of The Scarlet that places it light years ahead of other coastal properties – its innovative design heralds a new era of high-end eco luxury in the UK. Yes it looks gorgeous, and yes, there’s lots of weathered wood, but the ‘eco’ element here isn’t greenwashing; there are no less than 101 sustainable initiatives (so says the welcome booklet in our room), including a biomass boiler system, rain-water harvesting, solar panelling, locally sourced food and a 10% discount for guests arriving by foot, bike or public transport.

One look at the car park, though, backed up with Mercs, BMWs and the odd Ferrari, will tell you this is not for the dreadlocked masses. However, despite rooms costing from £180-£430 (€212-€510) per night the vibe here is completely unpretentious. This is Cornwall as it should be, with an eco conscience and a good deal of seaside fun – it just comes with a serious dose of sex appeal this time. And as it’s a “grown-ups only” hotel, it is blissfully free of screaming kids, perfect for a romantic getaway, a girlie spa weekend, or a peaceful beach break for any stressed-out city-dweller.

Back to those rooms: they are quite stunning. Categorised as ‘Just Right’, ‘Generous’, ‘Unique’, ‘Spacious’ and ‘Indulgent’, all 37 are roomy and sun-drenched, laid out in open-plan style (be prepared for nakedness – bathtubs stand unashamedly within the bedroom). They come with a flat screen TV, hanging felt lamps, wood-stencilled wall trees and, with our “Just Right” room, a garden terrace of sage-coloured sea thrift, swaying reeds and hypnotic sea views.

The very aptly-named 'Just Right' room

And if you’re not sufficiently soothed by all this, follow the sweet wafts of organic Tri-Dosha oils through the hallways towards the canvas-tented spa, cocooned at the heart of the hotel. Ayurvedic treatments include seaweed baths, hammam body scrubs and deep-tissue massages, which you can follow with relaxation time in the steam room, sauna or heated indoor pool, and conclude with a snooze in one of the hanging womb-like cushioned “pods”.

I’m loathe to talk about the Scarlet’s shortcomings – it is so damn close to perfect – but this young hotel has one teething issue: restaurant service is too slow for a luxury hotel. Granted, I visited in the last weekend in June – the busiest since their September launch, I suspect. During dinner we waited half an hour between our first course (succulent homemade terrine, by the way) and second course (sublime chunky monkfish). The next morning several tables waited impatiently for breakfast (an amazing selection of sautéed apples and yogurt, scrambled eggs and kippers, amongst other things); when the food’s this good it’s such a pity to have to wait for it. One woman was in a flap about being late for her spa appointment – how ironic to be in this absurdly picturesque setting, awaiting a massage and stressing out about our untimely kippers. I sensed we all felt awkwardly guilty about it, too. Were we not mellow enough for this dreamy Cornish eco-pad?

Nevertheless, and despite not getting my coffee fix quickly enough, I still fell head over heels in love with the Scarlet. The perfect marriage of nature and design, humour and heart, this is more than just a hotel, it’s an experience.

Next time, I’m extremely tempted to see what these blustery Atlantic views look like in winter. I shall swap martini cocktails for mulled wine, the log fires will be crackling, and mmm, those red-hot hot tubs will be even more sizzling…

For more information and bookings, see the Scarlet Hotel’s website.

A tour of the Scarlet Hotel…