The amazing elephant on show in Nantes

With the worst of the winter behind us, this month we suggest packing your bags for a weekend break and celebrating the best of European art, traditions, music and cuisine. From parties en piste to otherworldly outdoor exhibitions, there’s lots to see and do to chase away those wintry blues…

Discover Les Machines de L’ile

You’ll find a variety of weird and wonderful mechanical creatures wandering along the Loire River, including 12-metre (and 2.5 million euro) high Giant Elephant. Welcome to the the Galerie des Machines de L’ile; a unique display to check out on a visit to France’s sixth largest city, Nantes. Re-opening after winter closure on 12^th February, the artistic project was created by Francois Delaroziere and Pierre Orefice, influenced by the visions of French sci-fi author Jules Verne and the mechanical drawings of Leonardo da Vinci, and is designed to take visitors on a fantasy journey through ‘imaginary worlds’. Unveiled for the first time this year is The Marine Worlds Carousel; measuring 25-metres high, it features 35 underwater animals over three levels.

Caper at Carnival

Spain’s temperate climate attracts crowds of holidaymakers over the sweltering summer period, but insiders know that to really get a taste of the Spanish spirit, the best time to head to the Iberian peninsula is during carnival time. Taking place in cities and towns (including Malaga, Alicante, Cadiz and Barcelona)  across the country this month, carnivals will see fantastically-attired Spaniards and imaginative floats parade through the streets, accompanied by music, dance and theatrical performers. It’s a feast for all the senses, with bright colours and rhythmic beats creating a festive ambiance. This year, Madrid’s carnival is inspired by characters from mediaeval and classical mythology, with a mysterious faun as protagonist – encouraging participants to lose all inhibitions. You have been warned!

For more information, see the Madrid Carnival website.

Book The Big Snow

For those seeking more in the way of après ski, than actual ski, then next month’s Big Snow Festival might just be the ticket. From 23^rd to 30^th March, the powdery slopes of Kopapnik, Serbia, come alive with the sounds of musicians and DJs including Ms Dynamite, Judge Jules, DJ Fresh, Eddy Temple Morris and Freestylers – among many others. The annual festival has moved from its former home in Andorra, bringing the biggest line-up yet of avalanche-inducing reggae, jazz, dance and electronica spread across ten stages and set among the resort’s 62km of ski runs.

Self catering packages, including flights, start at £449 per person. For more information visit the Big Snow Festival website.

Try Croatian Cuisine

 24^th February to March 4^th marks Zagreb Restaurant Week, an annual celebration of the Croatian capital’s culinary offerings. The first event took place last autumn with just a few venues on board; the second instalment promises to be bigger and better, running over a fortnight and featuring around 50 restaurants. Each one is offering their signature specialities through three course menus at a discounted price of 100 Kuna (around £11/13€). Dobar Tek!

For the full list of restaurants taking part, visit www.tjedanrestorana.com

Get a Fashion and Food Fix

The two words aren’t usually used positively in the same sentence, but swish restaurant Quaglino’s in London, is offering just that. The venue is collaborating with established and up-and-coming photographers for a series of temporary exhibitions in 2012, kicking off with glossy fashion snapper Marc Rogoff. Coinciding rather nicely with LFW, and running until 20^th March, Rogoff’s Augmented Reality collection is adorning the walls of the restaurant, providing a feast for the eyes with beautifully-dressed models suspended in surreal backdrops. Quaglino’s serves up a special lunchtime menu, as well as a full evening a la carte boasting an impressive selection of fresh fish; making it a good place for the fashion crowds to re-fuel after the shows.

Food for thought: at Quaglino's in London, photographer Marc Rogoff's Augmented Reality shows incredible, evocative images

The selection of gourmet treats...

If I had known I might score a pair of new Louboutins for €80 I’d have arrived earlier. Instead, I took my time pitching up at La Rotonde, one of Paris’s hottest new venues; the restored 18^th century architectural gem combines a bar, restaurant and events space overlooking the Bassin de la Villette in the gritty-but-trendy Stalingrad neighbourhood. For a leisurely Sunday between girls, it doesn’t get any better than this: round trips to a scrumptious brunch buffet before exploring a vintage and designer treasure trove? Oui! And we weren’t alone; founder Tiyi Kalmery’s simple but enterprising idea to fuse food and fringues at her monthly Fashion Brunch has attracted a steady stream of Parisian fashionistas since the event launched last summer.

At €35, it may not be an outing for those on a budget (especially if you plan to do more than window shop), but the fee includes brunch and access to the friperie upstairs. Gourmets will be pleased with the excellent variety of sweet and savoury goodies – even the fussiest of eaters are catered to. If the city’s usual brunch menus typically go for around €20, rest assured that La Rotonde’s selection is considerably more exciting (and did we mention all-you-can-eat?).

After eating, brunchers are invited to head to the cosy galleries of La Rotonde’s upper floors; rails of vintage threads and accessories are complemented by the handmade jewellery and trinkets from emerging designers. Bold earrings by multiethnic label Bezemy Mailan stood out for their tribal-meets-80s-meets-Art Deco vibe. Meanwhile, shoppers hovered around the Dingue de Lunettes (Crazy About Glasses) stand, browsing an impressive range of vintage eyeglasses and sunglasses.

You’ll find pricey restored treasures on some stands, while others just wish to clear out their closets and this is where most of the bargains can be found; I snapped up an emerald green beaded blouse for ten euros, while my friend took a shine to a leather mini  for just five. And I had no qualms about parting with €80 for a pair of black Louboutin pumps (a gift for the seller who couldn’t fit into them, apparently) – never worn, the smooth red soles were still impeccable.

Many young designers set up shop here to test the waters and eventually make a name for themselves. Marion Labourdette is the charming créatrice behind Sage et Sauvage; offering jewellery fabricated using a curious melange of chains, tassels, studs, feathers and leather. Other highlights included Origami Gems (delicate creations involving the Japanese art of paper folding) and June (vibrant, ethnic-casual pieces crafted by a French-Cameroonian).

Whether you’re a vintage novice or devotee, there’s a good chance you’ll find that something special; between them, the Fashion Brunch stallholders cater to a range of tastes. One piece of advice: pace yourself at the brunch buffet, or at least be prepared to shop a while to aid digestion! After all, if both your wardrobe and tastebuds are satisfied, you know it’s been a good day.

Rails of vintage threads and quirky accessories complement the handmade jewellery and trinkets from emerging designers

Fashion Brunch is held on the first Sunday of every month from 11:30am until 5:00pm at La Rotonde, 6-8 Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad 75019 Paris. €35 buffet brunch and boutique entrance, €2 boutique entrance. For more information, see the Fashion Brunch website.

All photographs by Ibra Him.

Shabby chic at Mitte's Mein Haus am See

I love many things about Berlin. I love its unique mix of grit and glamour. I love its energy, with cafes and bars heaving with people at all hours. And I love that while it’s a creative hotbed, it’s also stooped in history. I’ve had the pleasure of walking its streets, eating in its cafes and dancing in its clubs on numerous occasions, so I’m only too pleased to share my favourite Berlin haunts with you.

Mein Haus am See

Located in the busy Mitte district and flagged by streets lined with cafés and bars, you could easily walk past Mein Haus am See. A former bookshop and warehouse space, its shabby chic reclaimed furniture, shoddy paintwork and floor-to-ceiling windows echo a typically Berlin style. And the café’s regulars – a mish-mash of hipsters and MacBook yielding freelancers – only add to the relaxed and über cool feel. A cafe by day, it serves coffees and a selection of deliciously unpretentious and inexpensive food; by night (especially at the weekend, with its 24-hour opening times), it’s a busy bar with occasional live performances or DJ sets. Surprisingly spacious for such a central location, my favourite area has to be the custom-built stairs at the end of the main room; with a selection of cushions and chairs they are the perfect place to laze about, sit and chat or even dance – depending on when you choose to visit! Brunnenstraße 197-198, Mitte, 10119.

Lichtblick Kino 

Tired of towering multiplexes and cineplexes? I suggest you give Berlin’s smallest independent cinema a visit. With only 30-something seats, Lichtblick Kino really is pocket-sized, and it feels more like you’re sitting in your living room than at the cinema. It’s suitably decorated too, with charming traditional furniture and oil lamps to give that old fashioned feel. The cinema’s programme is a mix of new art house releases and French New Wave/Film Noir classics, alongside seasons dedicated to various directors’ contributions to cinema. And thankfully you won’t find any dubbed monstrosities here; films are screened in their original language instead. If you fancy an alternative Berlin night out, Casablanca shows every Saturday at midnight. Kastanienallee 77, Prenzlauer Berg, 10435 Berlin

Museum für Fotografie

Before his death in 2004, world-renowned fashion photographer Helmut Newton decided to leave his mark on his home city of Berlin. Fast forward a few years and what was once a Prussian Officer’s casino is now the largest photography gallery in the city. The beautiful neoclassical building is home to The Helmut Newton Foundation itself, which stretches over two floors and showcases over 4,000 of the photographer’s own works. As part of this exhibition, you can expect to see his classic erotic black-and-white images, made famous on the covers of Vogue. Take the stairs up another level and you’ll find the vaulted ceilings of the Kaisersaal. At one point blackened by war, the room has been restored to its former glory, and now hosts a range of temporary exhibitions from artists across the world.  Jebensstraße 2, Charlottenburg, 10623.

Görlitzer Park

Before the Cold War took hold, Görlitzer Park was the site of a major train station called Görlitzer Bahnhof. As years of bombing and mounting tensions between East and West eventually took their toll, the station was closed and eventually demolished. Apart from a few small buildings, a huge crater is all that remains; and of course the huge park that surrounds it; Görlitzer Park might not be as beautiful as the Tiergarten, but it has a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere, especially in the summer. Full of people barbecuing and playing ball games, there is a cafe, swimming baths and even the odd party from time to time. Glogauer Straße 34, Kreuzberg, 10999.

Kollwitzplatz Markt

Saturday’s farmers’ market at Kollwitzplatz is a must for any foodie; from sumptuous deli food and colourful fruit and vegetables, to butchers, fishmongers and even craft stalls – it ticks all the boxes. And for the impatient (or peckish), you’ll find snacking fare from bratwurst and kebabs to oysters to keep you going as you tour the market. There are also plenty of gorgeous cafes in the area to escape to if you visit at the weekend when it tends to be quite busy. Alternatively, avoid the crowds entirely and opt for the organic market on Thursdays. Kollwitzplatz, Prenzlauer Berg, 10405. Markets: 9am–4pm on Saturday and 12-7pm on Thursday.

Görlitzer Park might not be as beautiful as the Tiergarten, but it has a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere, especially in the summer...

Soulton Hall's cosy country house deco

There are times when even the most ardent city dweller feels the need to step off the urban conveyer belt, and head for the peace and tranquillity of the countryside.

It was this desperation for a bit of green breathing space that led us to Soulton Hall. Situated in the county of leafy Shropshire, the Elizabethan manor house has been owned by the same family since 1556. It is this sense of a family run business which sets it apart from the competition; nothing is too much trouble for current hosts, John and Ann Ashton.

After oohing and aahing at the imposing building which sits at the bottom of a pretty tree-lined drive, we were greeted by the affable Ann who made us feel instantly welcome and at home. Ann proudly explained our room, Barnet, was situated in the old part of the house. The room itself (one of four individual suites in the Hall) oozes history and atmospheric charm from its sloping, creaky oak floors and wood panelled walls. The Victorian furniture and secret door epitomise the Wuthering Heights ambience, and the huge cocooning bed ensures a restful night’s sleep (as long as your imagination about Cathy’s fingers tapping at the window doesn’t run away with you!). Only the kettle and television look out slightlyof place in this historical setting. The en-suite bathroom with shower and bathtub has a glamorous feel, set against the wooden beams – and could only have been improved with luxurious toiletries.

Feeling adventurous and wanting to maximise on the fresh air, we ventured off track to explore the 500 acres of farm and woodland in which the Hall is set. Naturally we hadn’t thought of bringing sturdy footwear so squelched our way through fields, across a babbling brook and into the bluebell wood. After a blissfully quiet ramble we came across an adorable gingerbread cottage, which is actually part of Soulton Hall and can be rented out by those seeking absolute respite from other human beings.

Having worked up an appetite we were not disappointed by three courses of simple, delicious, home cooked food such as beetroot bread, roast rack of lamb, belly pork with crispy crackling and the divine sticky toffee pudding. Dinner at Soulton Hall is informal and served by candlelight which adds to the romance of the surroundings, and afterwards, the reception hall offers the perfect place to finish your meal with coffee and petit fours or a glass of port (in our case both), as you admire the huge fireplace and resplendent surroundings.

As we had travelled by train, we weren’t able to explore the surrounding areas, however, this wasn’t an issue as the home comforts of Soulton Hall and absolute silence (except for the wind blowing and a couple of cows mooing), meant we could indulge in reading, eating and relaxing without a care in the world.

Situated in the county of leafy Shropshire, the Elizabethan manor house has been owned by the same family since 1556...

Damien Hirst's spot series is on show

Nothing like a New Year to induce those itchy feet feelings of wanting to better oneself, or book that sabbatical once and for all. Misery-inducing resolutions aside, there’s an influx of mind-boosting holiday packages out there promising more soul pampering than sunbathing. Among them is Small Luxury Hotels of the World’s ‘Be Inspired’ section, listing experiences from glassblowing in Turkey and truffle hunting in France, to making your own beauty products in the Czech Republic. For more information, inspiration and prices visit the website.

Set Sail

Group adventure holiday specialists Intrepid Travel has launched a new range of sailing trips for 2012, taking budding sailors off the beaten track in destinations across Europe. Once on board, either have a go at sailing the boat or settle back and take in the views, exploring the hidden coves, snorkelling spots, towns and restaurants at stops along the way. For more information on the four to eight day trips, exploring destinations including Greece and Croatia, as well as a limited 15% discount (book before 16^th January), visit the Intrepid Travel site.

Get A Culture Fix

The Gagosian Gallery is launching a worldwide exhibition of work from Bristol-born artist Damien Hirst on 12^th January. Taking place at all eleven of its galleries at once, including London, Paris, Rome, Athens and Geneva until March, The Complete Spot Paintings 1986-2011 features over 300 of the artist’s works, from his single spot on board in ’86 to his most recent 25,781 spot creation. For addresses and dates, see the official website.

Celebrate Burns’ Night

The Scottish holiday, which marks the birthday of the late poet Robert Burns, is held on January 25^th and to mark the event, Cameron House on Loch Lomond is introducing a Scottish Market Menu to its Cameron Grill restaurant – from haggis ice-cream to Ayrshire pork cutlet, running over the week of Burns (23^rd – 29^th January), from £35 per person. With the Great Scots Bar’s whisky list to warm the cockles and views over the lake and highlands, it’s a bonnie way to blow away any New Year blues.

Set sail in Croatia from Dubrovnik to Primosten with one of Intrepid Travel's sailing holidays...

Edinburgh's majestic, imposing castle

We’ve trekked across Europe from Anttola to Andalucia this year, trying out the tastiest local dishes and staying in some seriously desirable hotels; here’s our edit of the best travel features of 2011.

Edinburgh: Beauty and the Beast

Modern-day Edinburgh is relentlessly picturesque, but its cobbled streets secrete a sinister past. John O’ Ceallaigh discovers what to see, do and experience in Scotland’s capital city.

Belfast: Fresh Perspectives and Fashion Plaudits

Looking to the future and surprisingly fashion forward, Ruth Styles looks at how Belfast is staking its claim as the UK’s new style capital.

CRAVE: Les Etangs de Corot

Luxury rooms, fine dining and a Caudalie Spa to boot – Joanne Archibald  investigates Les Etangs de Corot; a city-dweller’s dream bolthole and the perfect place to get away from it all, relax and enjoy some serious pampering…

The Local’s Guide to… Ljubljana

Slovenia’s little-known capital is just waiting to be discovered; John O’ Ceallaigh gets the insider info from Nina Susnjara, one of the country’s most successful fashion designers…

Vilnius Unveiled

Katie Shellard explores Lithuania’s diminutive capital; Vilnius is big on quirky charm and Baltic grandeur.

Cheers to Cologne!

Whether it’s beer or surprisingly good German wine, Gabrielle Sander finds plenty of reason to toast this fascinating city on the Rhine.

Travel Tales: The Monte Carlo Casino

Is Monaco’s famous landmark as glamorous as the flocking masses expect or just full of decrepit gambling addicts fluttering away their pensions, asks Lauren Novak.

CRAVE: Le Mas Candille – Cannes

With its luxurious setting, sumptuous spa and decadent dining, it shouldn’t surprise that Le Mas Candille also offers the odd celebrity sighting. Gabrielle Sander reports on the crave-worthy luxe hotel.

Eat Like a Local… in Europe

Eating is a major part of experiencing a culture and nothing is worse than wasting good money on bad food; Lauren Novak presents her top restaurant and café picks for authentic, local experiences from Berlin to Bruges…

Belgian Bohemia in Ghent

Fran Harris hops on the Eurostar to soak up the abundance of arts, festivities, music and foodie delights on offer in the medieval town of Ghent…

Alternative Accommodation

Standard hotels are all well and good, but sometimes you just want something different. From an old crane to a renovated sewer pipe, Emma Dance takes a look at Europe’s quirkier accommodation…

Five of our Favourites… Barcelona Foodie Secrets

There’s no doubt about it; Barcelona is foodie heaven. From tapas haunts and cool experimental cocktail bars to chic breakfast spots, here Alex Englishpresentsthe top five must-eats in the Catalan capital.

The Aura river winds through Turku...

The Local’s Guide to… Turku

A 2011 European Capital of Culture, Finland’s former capital takes centre stage once more. John O’ Ceallaighgets the insider info from actress and performer Pauliina Räsänen.

Five of our Favourites… Ice Cream Parlours

I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream. John O’ Ceallaigh profiles the best places to indulge your gelato craving this summer.

Travel Tales: Keukenhof Tulip Garden – Holland

Forget windmills and clogs – the tulip is Holland’s top draw. Lauren Novak goes frolicking in the flower fields…

Andalucía, Almuña and Amor

If Carlsberg made holidays, they’d pack you off to stay at the Almuña farmstead in southern Spain for a few days, thinks Sacha Smith Laing.

CRAVE: Art & Design Villas – Anttola

Boasting emerald green eco credentials and some seriously cool artwork, the Art & Design Villas on the shores of Finland’s Lake Saimaa more than live up to their name. Ruth Styles packs her bags for a weekend visit.

The Little Black Book: My Secret Paris

You won’t find many of these places in your typical Parisian guidebook, and all the better, because we don’t want them getting too popular! Pippa Rimmer shares her under-the-radar spots in the city of light…

Five of our Favourites… Ski Breaks

From stays at luxury chalets to adults-only antics off piste, John O’ Ceallaigh selects Europe’s best ski breaks.

Le Mas Candille is nestled within ten acres of private manicured lawns, winding paths and cypress, olive and pine trees

The rather sumptuous Offenbach suite...

Arriving at Les Etangs de Corot, it’s hard to believe that just 20 minutes ago we were among the madding crowds at Saint Lazare, Paris’ second busiest railway station. Nestled in the leafy suburb of Ville d’Avray, a stone’s throw from the Château de Versailles, this upscale hotel, restaurant and spa is the quintessential country retreat. Ville d’Avray has long attracted artists, including the hotel’s namesake, impressionist painter Jean-Baptiste Camille Corot. The main draw is, of course, the etangs – two small lakes surrounded by unspoilt forest, perfect for restorative walks.

The hotel is small but sprawling. Each bedroom bears the name of a famous hotel guest. We pass Victor Hugo and the Duc d’Orléans on the way to our room – Offenbach. Room prices range from €195 to €400; we are in a Junior Suite, which comprises an office area, a salon, and an absolutely huge bed. Visting in the autumn, the view from our spacious balcony is stunning: the forest is a riot of gold, russet and orange leaves, and the mist across the lakes gives the place an other-wordly atmosphere.

Bubbling bliss and hammam heaven

After recharging our batteries with complimentary macarons in our room, we don bathrobes and slippers and head to the spa – that is, after all, the main attraction. On our way to the star of the show, we visit some of the hotel’s other facilities; the sports room, though small, is equipped with running and cycling machines, and a selection of dumbbells. There’s also a wall-mounted climbing frame that transforms itself into a weight machine of the user’s choice simply by moving a few bars. Male companion in gadget heaven.

We move on to investigate the hammam (wet sauna) and rest room where grapes, freshly squeezed orange juice and iced tea are available along with the latest French gossip magazines. Next stop: the Jacuzzi. It’s open on two sides, which affords a lovely feeling of wellness through the fresh air without letting in the sharp autumn wind; the spa has been fitted out with the very best quality equipment and no detail has been overlooked, right down to the two little bottles of Evian that magically appear while we are exercising.

Relaxation Central: The Caudalie Spa

Founded by the couple that owns Les Sources de Caudalie, located in Bordeaux – the heart of wine country, Les Etangs de Corot’s spa offers the same “vine therapy” as its southern sister hotel. Caudalie’s hook is the use of grapes and all things vineyard in its products and treatments, which have tempting-sounding names like Crushed Cabernet body scrub and Gironde honey and wine wrap. I opt for a Caudalie massage. The minute the treatment begins, I can feel Paris getting further and further away and the cares of the world evaporating. Suddenly, what seems like two minutes later, 50 minutes have elapsed and I emerge – minus one slightly achy shoulder but plus one little bag of Caudalie samples.

Cuisine with a little je ne sais quoi

In the evening, we head to the restaurant gastronomique Le Corot, which boasts “inventive and refined cuisine”. We start with Dublin bay prawns with beetroot and salmon with quails’ eggs and caviar. Both are beautifully presented but each dish is a mix of excellent elements that unfortunately never become more than the sum of their parts. The same cannot be said for our main courses, however: venison with a purée of Jerusalem artichoke and a selection of pork meats served with creamy pumpkin purée and parsnips. Tender, cooked to perfection, delicate and refined, both are utterly delicious and leave us wanting more. We round off the meal with the chocolate manjari biscuit, which is what you might imagine a Snickers bar would taste like if it had been invented by an angel: caramel and chocolate with a nutty bite, all within a chocolate tower that just begs to be toppled and ransacked.

Blissed-out relaxation at the Caudalie spa

To accompany the meal, we opt for the rather clever “Sommelier’s Selection”: for €35, three glasses of wine are selected to match your food. The clear winner is the white Château Smith Haut Lafitte. Buttery and full-bodied, to my mind this wine is the perfect companion for red meat, fish, cheese, anything.  After that, we roll back to our room for a good night’s sleep, unaware that we are soon to embark upon what my companion called (and I do not dispute) “the best hotel breakfast ever”.

Breakfast at Les Etangs de Corot is served in its second eatery, the Café des Artistes. (From May to September, a third is opened up – the outdoor Les Paillotes, with its uninterrupted view of the lakes.) The room’s centrepiece is a large farmhouse-style table piled with patisseries, brioche, bread, cheese, meats and fish. To one side are bowls of strawberries, raspberries, fruit salads, squeezed juice and selection of the finest preserves. My companion is initially disappointed by the lack of eggs on offer, but crisis is averted when I spot the special menu with oeufs of all kinds, cooked to order. Male companion in protein heaven.

Last but not least: a word about service

As an adopted Parisian now used to surly waiters and sullen salespeople, I reserve my last words on Les Etangs de Corot for the staff: friendly, helpful, polite, and utterly charming. Everyone we met was a model of professionalism, displaying that attention to detail the French do so well.

So, there you have it, luxury, relaxation, pampering – Les Etangs de Corot is a city-dweller’s dream bolthole. True, it’s on the expensive side, but it doesn’t disappoint. It’s the perfect place to get away from it all, recover from a broken heart, recharge your batteries, tell your mum you love her, bond with friends before a wedding (so much nicer than fairy wings, L-plates and too much Smirnoff Ice), or snatch some quality time on a romantic interlude. Whatever your reason for visiting, you risk only one thing – dangerous levels of self-indulgence.

Visit the Les Etangs de Corot website for more information.

Nestled in tranquil leafy suburbs, Les Etangs de Corot is the quintessential country retreat, surrounded by unspoilt forest...

Jazz soirées at Paris' Cercle Suédois...

It’s coming up to four years that I’ve had the privilege of calling Paris my home. Being a naturally curious adventuring type, as well as a journalist for RIH, I can confidently say that I’ve run in heels around every one of Paris’ 20 arrondissements, and have managed to discover many a treasure along the way. You’ll be hard pushed to find most of the places below in your typical Parisian guidebook, and all the better, because we don’t want these places getting too popular! So, just between you and me, here’s my Secret Paris…

Cercle Suédois

You could walk past the ‘Cercle Suédois’ (Swedish Circle) a thousand times and not notice it’s there. It is tucked away in a residential building, on a street renowned for its glamourous hotels (Crillon, Meurice) and other noble former residences (Louvre…) – the Rue de Rivoli.

On Wednesday night you can be the guests of the Swedes’ Jazz night. At number 242 you buzz, go up to the second floor and knock at the second door on your right. For just 10€, you get entry to an intimate jazz concert as well as a drink. Swedish tipples and nibbles are all available for reasonable prices. It is perfectly underpopulated – think 40 guests maximum, which means you’re almost always guaranteed a space on the balcony which overlooks the Tuileries Gardens, and gives you access to the room where Alfred Nobel conceived his prize. His desk remains in the very same spot. If you fancy having your own time-travelling Midnight-in-Paris experience, this would be a great place to start. 242 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1er.

Le Limonaire

Le Limonaire is one of my favourite spots in Paris. Its central location means it’s convenient for meeting friends from any corner of Paris. There are several metros within walking distance, but you have to know your route around the alleys of the “Grands Boulevards’ to stumble across this gem. It’s basically a cabaret restaurant, which continues a great Parisian tradition which has had the soul ripped out of it at some other more well-known cabarets… You arrive at around 8pm, eat a traditional French meal at an excellent price, and from 10pm onwards you will be impeccably entertained in a musical fashion. The price? Whatever you choose – make your contribution into the hat which is passed around at the end of the night. You can also just come for drinks, and a lovely quiet terrace outside is great for smoking a Gitane or two, or just absorbing the fresh air. I’ve never had a bad night here. Cité Bergère – Paris 2eme.

Terrace of the Great Paris Mosque

The Grande Mosquée de Paris occupies an impressive position in Paris’ left bank, a short walk from the Latin Quarter in an area I much prefer for its lack of bustling. It is the largest mosque in France and the third largest in Europe. As well as being a place of worship with a stunning garden, and housing an authentic hammam (I’ve left there many a time which skin softer than I ever thought possible), it also boasts an exquisite terrace which is absolutely perfect for enjoying an oriental pastry, mint tea and shisha (shisha only after 4pm) next to the open aviary and under various vines. A perfect patch of paradise in Paris. 9 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire – Paris 5eme.

La Pagode

La Pagode is easily one of the world’s loveliest cinemas, with one of the most heartbreaking tales at its origin. It is also one of the rare cinemas where you know you can just drop in and are guaranteed to see something amazing – the programme is always excellent.

Monsieur Morin – the founder of Paris institution the Bon Marché department store – commissioned La Pagode – a replica of a Japanese Pagoda – as a gift for his wife in 1886. However could one repay such a gift, you might ask? Well, Madame Morin choose to do it by skipping off with her husband’s business partner. Monsieur Morin’s loss became our gain in time – after a short life as a reception hall, it became a cinema in 1931. It has since become a key player in France’s cinematic landscape, hosting the premiere of Jean Cocteau’s Testament d’Orphée, as well as being a key champion of the Nouvelle Vague in the 60s, bringing the works of Truffaut, Rohmer, Rozier and others to the attention of the public. After escaping demolition in the 1970s (I can’t bear to imagine it), it remains a champion of quality independent cinema today.

An exquisite hidden Japanese cinema

It’s worth ringing to see if your chosen film is playing in the impressive ‘Salle Japonaise’ before you set off (there is another smaller screen) as you may never watch a film in a more exquisite room than this one. A tea beforehand in the surrounding Japanese garden is also highly recommended. 57Bis Rue Babylone – Paris 7eme.

Jardin Francs-Bourgeois-Rosiers

The Marais is one of the liveliest areas in Paris, not least on a Sunday when the rest of the city is closed up (the Marais is the Jewish quarter and so their day of rest is Saturday). I’ve spent countless weekends here, browsing the excellent thrift stores, eating Falafel and cheesecake and drooling over the apartments, but it was only recently that I discovered the jardin ‘Francs-Bourgeois-Rosiers’. Accessible through former Hotel Particulier, the Hotel de Coulanges on the Rue Francs-Bourgeois (which now houses the Maison de l’Europe), this little ‘espace vert’ has to be one of the best-kept secrets in the Marais. Now is the time to visit it – plans are underway to merge it with two other nearby gardens, which will create something very special, but undoubtedly more popular… So get your falafel and cheesecake to go and bring them here. ASAP. 33-35 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois – Paris 4eme.

La petite cuisine à Paris

If you’re planning ahead, a much sought-after reservation at culinary creative Rachel Khoo’s Petite Cuisine is an excellent way to spend a lunchtime. As well as enjoying some fabulous dishes you can have a good natter with a Brit who has made Paris her home. La Petite Cuisine has been thoroughly tried and tested by RIH already and you can read all about it here.

Ballon de Paris

So your obvious options for getting a great view of Paris are the following: Eiffel Tower, Montparnasse Tower and Sacré Coeur. All worthy edifices, but all a little too obvious, and dare I say it, ‘touristy’. But how about being able to see all these buildings from above, in a way that you will never find in the guide books? You need to try the Paris hot air balloon. The reason it’s not in the guide books is because it is subject to the weather (hence it can’t be promoted to tourists), but all you need to do is check on their website before you set off and see whether the balloon is running. When you get there, the queue is modest (virtually non-existent mid-week). You go up in the balloon (tethered to the ground) in a group of around 10, for around 15-20 minutes at a time, to take in a panorama of Paris as far as the eye can see. Parc Andre Citroen – Paris 15eme.

And finally, a few more secrets which I’ll let you discover on your own..

● Histoire de Paris and Curiocites will both teach you fascinating tales about Paris that go far off the tourist track (French speakers only).

● Billet Reduc is bursting with discounted (and often free) tickets to every type of show imaginable in Paris (30-year olds and under can find more places at one of the Kiosque des jeunes);

● You could save yourself a small fortune in museum and gallery tickets if you book to come on the first Sunday of the month, when all of these treasures offer free entry (the earlier you go, the shorter the queues!).

● The Rue Cler is a fabulous market street near (but not too close) to the Eiffel Tower which is open on Sundays until lunchtime, and is perfect for stocking up on cheese and other goodies to take home.

A secret garden within the lively heart of the Marais quartier: the beautifully tranquil Jardin Francs-Bourgeois-Rosiers...

A chic pitstop at the EMO restaurant

Vilamoura may be known for the glimmer of its golf courses and marina, but it’s also a perfect refuge for wandering gourmets. The Algarve has a distinct culinary heritage that has been shaped by its history, coast and mild Mediterranean climate. Over seven hundred years of Arabic rule until 1249 gave the area, not only its name (Al-Gharb meaning The West), but a taste for foods such as lamb and almonds. The Atlantic fishing waters bring hauls of seafood back to the markets and the perpetual sunshine guarantees sweet carob pods (used as a substitute for chocolate) and figs.

An indulgent place to start an eating pilgrimage is at EMO, the Michelin recommended restaurant within the super-luxe Tivoli Victoria. Executive Chef, Bruno Rocha, cites Thomas Keller of Napa Valley’s French Laundry as an inspiration, agreeing that “the principle thing is the ingredients”. EMO’s menu reflects this respect for produce; combining local ingredients with intelligent and, at times, surprising preparation. I ate lobster with black tagliolini followed by seared sea bass with a feather light lasagne “del sol”. The Sunshine dessert, was the alarming sounding yet absolutely delicious combination of orange custard, apricot sorbet and pistachio.

The next morning Chef Bruno was my guide to the covered market in the Roman town of Loule. Stalls selling Carob biscuits nestled amongst rows of noisy coloured vegetables (refreshingly out of shape in a very non-supermarket manner), pungent cheeses, chunky local sausages and lots of competing fishmongers – selling everything from miniscule mackerel to giant moray eel. I wondered how Chef would choose between the plethora of fish stalls and the answer was that he looked for the fish bent into almost comic death positions, “if it still has rigamortis, it is very fresh”.

We gathered up mackerel, carob and tomatoes twice the size of my fist and headed back to the fiery heat of the EMO kitchen to prepare lunch. Chef Bruno chopped, fried and toasted whilst I, in my borrowed chef whites, watched the kitchen pace increasing as lunch service got closer. I asked him where he ate when he was off duty, “O Jacinto does good fish”, and, for skewers of piri-piri squid and shrimp, he recommended a return to the streets around Loule market to eat Angolan food.

Alternatively, fifteen minutes outside of Albufeira, Restaurante Veneza serves rustic rabbit stew with tomatoes and mushrooms that has been marinated in white wine for 24 hours.The villages around Vilamoura are also home to a thriving honey industry with makers owning up to six hundred hives. Local varieties include orange honey, salt honey and rosemary honey, which makes a tasty combination with the breakfast speciality of bread fried in olive oil, cinnamon and sugar. Another delicious regional surprise comes from none other than Sir Cliff Richard! The star owns the Adega do Cantor (winery of the singer) just north-west of Albufeira, which produces the award-winning Vida Nova rose and red wines.

The  diverse culinary talent, within the area’s top hotels, fused during this summer’s Algarve Chefs Week which launched with ten culinary names, including Chef Bruno and Hilton Vilamoura Head Chef Stephan Kuehlwetter, turning Faro’s international terminal into a giant kitchen, and serving food to passengers in transit.

Vibrant wares on sale at Loule Market

Next year’s event already has more talent lined up and with the Algarve now grandstanding six Michelin starred restaurants, including Austrian chef Dieter Koschina’s double star for his local produce-focused food at Vila Joya, its status as a mouthwatering destination is continuing its ascendancy.

Where to Stay…

I stayed in modern opulence at Vilamoura’s Tivoli Victoria hotel. Large rooms with deep tubs and power showerslead out to private balconies, complete with daybeds, that overlook the infinity pool and beyond to the three golf courses that are within walking distance – including the Arnold Palmer designed Victoria course.

The hotel has the only Elements by Banyan Tree Spa in Europe where Thai therapists, trained at the Banyan Tree Academy, offer massages of a standard rarely experienced outside of Asia, above a glistening, dark indoor pool and outdoor relaxation deck. As well as EMO, the hotel has a poolside bar, Sensorial Restaurant – for more casual indoor and outdoor dining – and Bartini, which serves a wealth of signature martinis in the moonlight.

The Tivoli Victoria offer a range of guest experiences including guided bike tours, to pedal off those gourmet calories, and the Tivoli Delicious experience which includes a trip to Loule market with Chef Bruno followed by a cooking lesson in EMO’s kitchen.

The Elements by Banyan Tree Spa where Thai therapists offer massages of a standard rarely experienced outside of Asia...

Tucking into local fare at Kartoffelhaus

Too many times while travelling around Europe – hungering for an authentic, delicious meal, emblematic of my current location – I ended up eating dishes of disappointment from the ‘tourist menu’. Packet pasta in Rome, stodgy potato in Luxembourg, rock hard waffles in Brussels, chewy crepes in Paris; each one a missed opportunity. Eating is a major part of experiencing a culture and nothing is worse than wasting good money on bad food.

On the other hand, there is nothing more satisfying for a traveller than stumbling across that perfect little café down a side alley, or ordering exactly the right thing on a menu you can hardly understand because it doesn’t feature tourist-friendly English. I have been lucky enough to eat in some pretty special bistros, bars, restaurants and pubs which were either recommended or discovered after some backstreet meandering. Here are a some of the best, most authentic offerings I came across…

Kartoffelhaus No. 1 – Berlin

This restaurant specialising in all things potato is actually found on a rather busy main road, next to a shopping complex and a tram stop, in the shade of Berlin’s television tower. For these reasons alone it should probably fit into the ‘avoid’ category, however, from the moment you step inside, the atmosphere is welcoming, the staff friendly, and the menu generous. The main attraction, of course, is the potato: potato and leek or ham soup, potato pancakes, potato salad, mashed potato. There are also lots of meat options to go with your potato; and desserts too, although I’d go for the apple strudel over the potato pancakes. Wash it down with either a beer the size of your head or a tiny mug of specialty schnapps which your waiter will happily set on fire for you, bringing the alcohol content down from around 50% to a slightly more drinkable 30%.

‘T Ganzespel – Bruges

Good, old-fashioned Belgian food is what you’ll find here. This family restaurant serves a three-course meal for under 10€ which includes soup, served at the table out of the big pot it is made in, regularly changing mains and dessert. The dining space is all dark wood, soft lighting and lace window drapes and the staff are friendly, although a little shy. The place is pretty hard to find – I’ll admit – but it’s definitely worth then hunt.

Restaurant Franchin – Nice

Quite possibly the best meal I ate in a year of travelling was consumed here. But before I go any further, you must be warned, it was probably also one of the most expensive; worth the splurge though (in my case, a belated Valentine’s dinner). The romantic dining area of this little bistro would seat no more than 30, so the staff are very attentive. We enjoyed the obligatory onion soup for entrée, a main of lamb cutlets cooked to perfectly pink perfection, and then the glossy crème brûlée for dessert. The wine list was mostly French offerings – an ideal introduction into local flavours. The perfect place for a classic French restaurant ‘date’.

Night time at Madrid's Museo del Jamon

Museo del Jamon – Madrid

One of the quirkier eateries I came across, this chain of butcher-cum-bars is extremely popular with locals. By day, they run a deli selling all manner of meats, cheeses, olives, pastries, rolls etc. Come night, these linoleum-floored venues, complete with ham hocks hanging overhead, transform into happening bars, serving wine, sangria, tapas and more. The atmosphere is cheery and talkative, but also family friendly as people stand at the bar or lean against refrigerators or windowsills to eat and drink. Definitely a different (albeit noisy) dining experience!

Fanos Taverna – Kos

Set just back from the main beach promenade in Kos Town, this restaurant came as a welcome relief at the end of a long walk dodging restaurant touts (and giant menu boards with images of congealed looking food) along the waterfront. Standing behind a rather seedy-looking club, Fanos provides a striking contrast – a calm, warmly lit outdoor eating area under trellised vines and prompt, courteous service. You’re even treated to a complementary cinnamon digestive after dinner (quite popular with the island locals apparently). Pleasingly, only once we sat down were we offered an English menu and the food was delicious: large, fresh Greek salads, perfectly cooked moussaka in individual terracotta dishes and cold, cold beer. This place is proof it’s worth looking even just a little beyond the tourist strips for better food and service.

Gallagher’s Boxty House – Dublin

Set right in the heart of Dublin’s bustling tourist district, this traditional Irish venue is a haven of typical local fare, warm atmosphere and distinct lack of drunken foreigners. More a restaurant than a pub, Gallagher’s Boxty House specialises in, as the name suggests, the traditional Irish Boxty – boxty dumplings, boxty loaf and boxty pancakes – all made with potato and usually served with meats and sauces (the chicken and cream sauce combo is particularly good). If you’ve got a big appetite try the roast shoulder of Irish lamb, a hearty stew or pork sausages. One warning though, you won’t find Guinness at the top of the beverage list; instead Gallagher’s serves the local Murphy’s Irish Stout.

So, there you have it, some of the best places to eat a full meal like a local across Europe.

Quick Fixes for Cocktails, Snacks and Cheap Eats..

David – The best cocktails in Maastricht – be sure to try the Apple Pie concoction. Another selling point is the local specialty, a sweet and sour Maastricht stew.

Maktostas –  If you’re hungry in Faro head here for enormous toasted sandwiches with fresh crusty bread and hearty fillings, washed down with a jug of mild sangria. Try to grab a table on the raised deck outside and drink in the atmosphere of the quiet rustic square.

Lokal –  The best potato salad in Prague can be found at this aptly named restaurant. Deceivingly large and sophisticated inside, the prices seem unfairly low for the amount served – think 5€ each for a meal for two with soup, bread and blow-your-taste-buds creamy salad – and the beer is fresh as it gets.

Bon appetit!

Prague's Lokal restaurant serves up Czech specialities such as warming soups and dumplings, hearty goulash and tasty potato salad