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	<title>Running In Heels &#187; Features</title>
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	<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk</link>
	<description>News, culture and fashion from across Europe for women with style... and heels</description>
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		<title>Drink in the View</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/rooftop-bars-europe/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/rooftop-bars-europe/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 13:13:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Meredith Berman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Features]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jetsetter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[40 Seconds bar Berlin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[40 Seconds Berlin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[40 Seconds view Berlin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bar review Europe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Barcelona bars]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Barcelona guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bars with views Edinburgh]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bars with views Europe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Berlin bars]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Berlin guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[boundary bar london]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dublin guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Edinburgh Castle bar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[European rooftop bars]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gravity Bar Dublin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Guinness Storehouse Dublin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hotel Adriana Bar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hotel Adriana Croatia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hotel Adriana Hvar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hotel bars Venice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hotel Diagonal bar Barcelona]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hotel Diagonal Barcelona]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hotels with rooftop bars]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[La Terrasse Paris]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London bars]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Oloroso Edinburgh]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[panoramic views Europe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paris bars]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paris guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[romantic bar Venice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bar Barcelona]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bar Croatia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bar Dublin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bar Edinburgh]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bar Hvar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bar London]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bar Paris]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bar Shoreditch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bar Venice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop bars Europe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop hotel bar Barcelona]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rooftop restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Skyline Bar Hilton Hotel Venice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Skyline bar Venice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Venice guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[view of Edinburgh Castle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[weekend break Europe]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[September may herald the onset of autumn but there are plenty of places you can watch the sun set on summer in style - check out our guide to Europe's best bars with breathtaking views.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_18835" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 210px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/boundary.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-18835" title="boundary" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/boundary.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="272" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Boundary&#39;s spacious outdoor terrace</p></div>
<p>Europe is steeped in incredible attributes &#8211; The Colosseum, La Sagrada Familia, The Houses of Parliament and the Berlin Wall to name but a few.  And when there are so many fabulous rooftop terraces to enjoy these sights from, why view them from the same perspective as the masses below? So escape the tourist trail and put your feet up (literally) with Running in Heels’ guide to Europe’s best bars with top views.</p>
<h3>The Boundary, London</h3>
<p><a href="http://www.theboundary.co.uk/" class="liexternal">The Boundary</a> is located just off Brick Lane, a street worth visiting for its curry houses, markets and vintage stores during the day and its off-kilter bars and clubs at night.  So why not make a day and night of it by finishing off your trip here with a visit to this distinctive bar?</p>
<p>The Boundary has views across industrial heartland East London, all the way down to the river Thames and the distant sparkling skyscrapers of Canary Wharf.  It’s a glitzy backdrop for a night in London but up close the bar is naturally homely; the terrace is adorned with sweeping trees and fire pits, and if you still feel cold you can wrap yourself in the woolen blankets provided.</p>
<address><cite>2-4 Boundary Street, Shoreditch, London E2 7DD</cite></address>
<p><cite></cite></p>
<h3>40 Seconds, Berlin</h3>
<p>Occupying the eighth and top floor of a Berlin tower block, the curious name of this <a href="http://www.40seconds.de/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">bar</a> stems from the fact that it takes exactly 40 seconds for the lift to travel from the building’s ground floor to the bar’s door – even on their nights out Germans are sticklers for punctuality.</p>
<p>The club inside is fantastically sleek, but it’s the selection of terraces that really stand out.  Party-goers take in sights of Potsdamer Platz, the most famous square of Berlin, from the bar’s main terrace while other rooms look over vast sweeps of this sprawling city.  Glitz and glamour would be the two best descriptive words to describe this joint, so put on something snazzy, sip some champagne, and enjoy über-trendy Berlin.</p>
<address>Potsdamer Straße 58<cite>, 10785 Berlin </cite></address>
<h3>Skyline Bar, Venice</h3>
<p>OK, so the Hilton Hotel isn’t some mysterious hole-in-the-wall, but with Venice in all its finery who wants to secrete themselves in a subterranean hideaway?  The hotel’s <a href="http://www.hilton.co.uk/HiWayWeb/appmanager/portals/hotel?_nfpb=true&amp;_pageLabel=hotel_dining_detail&amp;_portlet.portalUrl=/HiWayWeb/appmanager/portals/brand&amp;_portlet.portalId=portals%252525252509brand&amp;_portlet.contentType=text/html;+ch&amp;diningId=875&amp;diningName=Skyline+Rooftop+Bar&amp;ctyhocn=VCEHIHI" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Skyline Bar</a> is located on its eighth floor, with romantic views over Canale Giudecca and Piazza San Marco.  The bar is known for its minty Mojitos , so slurp a few cocktails, sit with your loved one and enjoy watching the gondolas drift slowly past as the evening floats by.  Love is definitely all around.</p>
<address><cite></cite>Giudecca, 810 30133 Venice<cite></cite></address>
<div id="attachment_18836" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 210px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/oloroso.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-18836" title="oloroso" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/oloroso.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="268" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text"> Edinburgh Castle on the skyline...</p></div>
<h3>Oloroso, Edinburgh</h3>
<p>Edinburgh’s age-old heritage and creative charm make it a city unlike any other.  Visit the Scottish capital’s famous Castle and trace your way along the weave of cobbled streets that extend up and down this city; and when you’re finished eat at the famous <a href="http://www.oloroso.co.uk/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Oloroso</a>, a serene rooftop terrace which also holds a world-class restaurant.  The veranda sits high enough to take in the beautiful sights of the city, with Princes Street Gardens and, of course, the castle stretching out on the horizon. It’s a timelessly elegant vista so it’s only appropriate that you toast it in the traditional Scottish way: with a wee glass of whisky.</p>
<address>33 Castle Street, Edinburgh, EH2 3DN‎</address>
<h3>La Terrasse, Paris</h3>
<p>It may be known as the City of Light but it’s hard to find a rooftop Parisian bar that gives a vew of this shimmering city.  With a name like <a href="http://www.terrass-hotel.com/f/divers/la-terrasse/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">La Terrasse</a>, it’s clear that this venue is an exception and locally it’s known simply as the place take in the exquisiteness that Paris has to offer.</p>
<p>On clear days La Terrasse has views across to the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triumph.  The bar itself is done out with cute shrubbery, blossoming flowers and plush sofas to relax on.  Linger over the famous martini cocktails or if you want to be less sophisticated you could just munch on their savoury or sweet snacks.  Un tres beau paysage!</p>
<address>67 Rue Letort, 75018 Paris</address>
<address> </address>
<h3>Hotel Diagonal, Barcelona</h3>
<p>Barcelona is a city with superb architecture.  Gaudi’s fantastical  buildings dot Las Ramblas and beyond.  And when you’ve got a bar as  trendy as <a href="http://www.hoteles-silken.com/hotel-diagonal-barcelona/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Hotel Diagonal</a>,  why not take in the stupefying panorama from a dizzying height? Hotel  Diagonal plays host to some impressive parties on its modern rooftop  terrace.  There’s an enticing pool to cool down sizzling skin,  refreshing cocktails to sip on, and last but certainly not least, an  epic view of the sweeping Mediterranean on one side, and the bustle of  the city on the other.</p>
<p>Plaça de Llevant, 1, 08019 Barcelona</p>
<h3>Hotel Adriana, Hvar</h3>
<p>Croatia is firmly embedded on the travel radar.  Outside of the eurozone, it’s still relatively cheap, the weather’s great even in autumn and with innumerable islands to visit, historic architecture around every corner and a fabled nightlife, it’s not hard to see why travellers keep on coming back for more.  Hvar, an island off the Dalmatian Coast, is one of the most idyllic settings in the country, with beautiful beaches, gorgeous seafood restaurants and, of course, <a href="http://www.suncanihvar.com/adriana-hvar-spa-hotel.html" class="liexternal">Hotel Adriana</a>.</p>
<div id="attachment_18838" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 210px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/gravity.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-18838" title="gravity" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/gravity.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="265" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Gravity bar offers views over Dublin</p></div>
<p>Hotel Adriana really is <em>the </em>place to be, as evidenced by the well-to-do patrons who are just as likely to have sauntered into the hotel after mooring their boat at the marina as by strolling in from the street. You may not be able to match their budget at the bar but people watching costs nothing, and should you bore of the wealth on show you can instead take in the views of the turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea and the Paklinski Islands in the distance.</p>
<address>Fabrika bb, 21450, Hvar<br />
</address>
<h3>The Gravity Bar, Dublin</h3>
<p>We don’t often endorse joining the crowds at mainstream tourist attractions, but the <a href="http://www.guinness-storehouse.com/en/Index.aspx" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Guinness Storehouse</a> is a surprisingly impressive museum dedicated to all aspects of the black stuff. The building explains the history of Guinness and its development over time with visitors ascending in a spiral around what resembles a massive pint glass.</p>
<p>When the tour’s over the very top of the building, the Storehouse’s Gravity Bar, opens up to you, the dim halo of white light that emanates from its glass walls resembling the creamy head of a pint in the Dublin night. The view below is removed from the main sights of the Irish capital and instead shows the workings of inner-city Dublin. Wisely keeping Irish weather in mind, the designers dispensed with an outdoor terrace in favour of a covered space, so you can sip your pint in peace as rain hammers the window pane.</p>
<address>The Guinnes Brewery, St James&#8217;s Gate, Dublin 8<br />
</address>
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		<title>To Brive and Beyond</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/to-brive-and-beyond/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/to-brive-and-beyond/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 13:18:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Nicole Rapaport</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cover Features]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Features]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jetsetter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[accommodation Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[accommodation Dordogne Valley]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[authentic France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Beau Site Rocamadour review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brive Dordogne Valley]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brive Market]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brive-la-Gaillarde guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chateau de Castel Novel review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cheap flights Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cityjet route London to Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Collonges-la-Rouge guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Collonges-la-Rouge wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Curemonte France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Denoix distillery France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Denoix distillery tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Denoix distillery tour]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dordogne Valley guide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flights Dublin Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flights Dundee Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flights Edinburgh Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flights from Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flights London Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flights London City Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flights to Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardens in Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gouffre de Padirac]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[holiday France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hotel Le Quercy review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[La BiblioTHEque Terrasson]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Le Canto Collonges-la-Rouge review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Le Quatre Saisons Sarlat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Le Truffe Noire review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Les Jardins de Colette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Les Jardins de L'Imaginaire Kathryn Gustafson]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[parks in Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants Dordogne Valley]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rocamadour]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rugby Brive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rural France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sarlat France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Turenne abbey Souillac]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Turenne village]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[villages Dordogne Valley]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[visiting Curemonte]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[visiting Rocamadour]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[visiting Sarlat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[weekend break]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[weekend break France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[weekend getaway]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://runninginheels.co.uk/?p=17891</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The secret's out - a newly opened airport means the most gloriously rustic region of France is now ready to be discovered.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_17892" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Sarlat.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17892" title="Sarlat" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Sarlat-300x199.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="199" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Continental cafés in the pretty medieval core of Sarlat</p></div>
<p>For those not heavily into rugby or foie gras, Brive-la-Gaillarde, in the Dordogne Valley may have escaped your notice. But with an international airport recently inaugurated, and a variety of historical, cultural and gastronomical delights on offer, it’s only a matter of time before this area has to reluctantly relinquish its <em>nom de plume</em>: The Secret of France.</p>
<h3>To Do</h3>
<p>For starters, let’s get our bearings. Brive-la-Gaillarde sits within the three regions of Limousin, Aquitane and the Midi Pyrenees, and covers the three departments of Correze, Dordogne and Lot, in central France. But to avoid a geographical nightmare, let us call it simply: the Dordogne Valley, as the locals do.</p>
<p>The landscape in this region is lush and fertile, and with agriculture and farming positioned as main industries it’s not surprising that the Brive Market is jam packed with fabulous local and organic produce. Head down to the Place du 14 Juillet on a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday morning from 8am and feast on the best fruit, veg, meats, local cheeses and cakes and, of course, foie gras there is.</p>
<p>If you need a lunchtime tipple to wash it all down, head to the artisan <a href="http://www.denoix.fr" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Denoix Distillery</a>, where Sylvie Denoix will give you a tour – and taste – of the liqueurs and aperitifs produced on site. As you’d guess from her name the distillery is still a family-run business and proudly follows the same ancestral recipes and preserves the production methods used at the time of its foundation some 150 years ago. You’ll need sensible shoes &#8211; we really can&#8217;t recommend running in heels on this occasion, sadly &#8211; and stamina if visiting the <a href="http://www.gouffre-de-padirac.com" class="liexternal">Gouffre de Padirac</a>. This is one of the most famous chasms in Europe, and at 103 metres below ground, the spectacular sight of stalactites and stalagmites, as well as an underground river and various different chambers, is truly remarkable. Budding geologists wax lyrical about the diversity of the topography, but for the rest of us the panorama is simply nature at her most wondrous.</p>
<p>For green-fingered travellers, a tour around two of the loveliest public gardens is a good choice, even in autumn. <a href="http://www.lesjardinsdecolette.com" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Les Jardins de Colette</a> is only 10 minutes from Brive. This poetically themed series of gardens takes you through six of French novelist Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette’s special places. From Burgundy to Provence, you lose yourself in Colette’s life and works as you walk by manicured lawns and ripples of woodland. In Terrasson, <a href="http://www.lesjardinsdelimaginaire.com" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Les Jardins de L’Imaginaire</a> is more contemporary in design and looks over the old town. Created in the 1990s by the designer Kathryn Gustafson, the rose garden alone grows 1600 roses.</p>
<div id="attachment_18133" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 210px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/gouffe.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-18133" title="gouffe" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/gouffe.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="244" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The otherworldly Gouffre de Padirac</p></div>
<p>The villages surrounding Brive are equally beautiful and the country roads easy to navigate. Be sure to take a wander round Turenne, south of Brive, and admire the 12th century abbey church of Souillac. Considered one of the most beautiful villages in France, Collonges-la-Rouge is a must see. Its towers and chateaux finished in red sandstone, the centre is a fairytale setting still famed for the wine produced in the surrounding region. Curemonte and Sarlat are more than worth a visit, with a host of shops, museums and churches scattered throughout the old town. But for a truly memorable experience, head to Rocamadour, a medieval village carved out of the cliff face. Previously a centre of Christian pilgrimage, this spectacular canyon is home to winding streets and the odd shrine or two.</p>
<h3>To Stay</h3>
<p>There aren’t any five-star hotels in this area at the moment, but with the opening of the new airport and inevitable local development and economic boost brought in from tourism, it’s only a matter of time. The vast majority of hotels on offer may be simple, but they are reasonably priced and clean (and refreshingly unpretentious in comparison to hotels in larger French cities too).</p>
<p>The <a href="http://www.castelnovel.com" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Chateau de Castel Novel</a>, is a testament to simple luxuries, and has prices starting from €112 a night in low season. Its 27 rooms and suites are of an international standard, while the 10 rooms of the Cottage, an out-building located in the park, are more homely and petit. There’s free Wi-Fi, a swimming pool and tennis court, and the property is only a ten-minute drive from Brive. In the town of Brive itself lies the well-positioned <a href="http://www.la-truffe-noire.com" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Le Truffe Noire</a>, good for those wanting a central base. It’s clean and functional and rooms start from €110 a night. In Souillac, <a href="http://www.le-quercy.fr" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Hotel Le Quercy</a> is also well positioned. It’s only two stars, so rates are significantly cheaper – starting at €40 per night &#8211; and it’s a decent base for those who are heading out for a day of activities.</p>
<h3>To Eat</h3>
<p>With duck, lamb and foie gras the firm favourites here, vegetarians need not apply. However, for those who can’t resist a succulent piece of meat, the choices are limitless.</p>
<p>As with the hotel, the Relais &amp; Chateau restaurant at Castel Novel is luxurious. With three intimate dining rooms to choose from – and the terrace in warm weather &#8211; the menu is extensive and presented with traditional but tasty interpretations of duck, lamb and lobster dishes. Poultry, meat and seafood – that’s all of the carnivore food groups covered then.</p>
<div id="attachment_17894" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Collonges-la-Rouge_place.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17894" title="KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Collonges-la-Rouge_place-300x197.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="197" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Collonges-la-Rouge is famed for its red-sandstone facades</p></div>
<p><a href="http://www.lecantou.fr" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Le Cantou</a> in Collonges-la-Rouge is a delightful brasserie where you can tuck into various dishes under the shade of the vines that lace the vast terrace. The salads and omelettes are super tasty, and portions are very generous. It’s also worth considering if – for some reason – you’re sick of quaffing the region’s wines; locally made cider is one of its specialities. The <a href="http://www.bestwestern-beausite.com" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Beau Site</a> restaurant in Rocamadour benefits from a breathtaking vista over the valleys that roll past the hilltop village. Try their pan-fried foie gras for a melt-in-the-mouth calorie-fest never to be forgotten. Le Quatre Saisons, in Sarlat, serves French cuisine with a twist. The gutsy head chef is perhaps inspired by the experimental techniques of Heston Blumenthal, so it’s not for traditionalists. But if you like popping candy on your melon or deep-fried foie gras croquettes, look no further.</p>
<p>Before you leave, don’t miss a tea-time trip to La BiblioTHEque, in Terrasson. This exquisite tea shop is brand new, and serves the most beautiful looking and fabulous-tasting sweet treats. With home-made ice creams from €5.50 and brownies and cakes from €2.50, you can’t go wrong – until you hit the scales that is.</p>
<address><a href="http://www.CityJet.com" target="_blank" class="liexternal">CityJet</a> flies from Brive to Dublin, Dundee, Edinburgh and London City Airport, London&#8217;s most central airport. Flights to Brive from London City depart three times a week and one-way fares start from £59, with no hidden charges. CityJet offers over 600 flights a week to 16 destinations in the UK, Ireland and mainland Europe.<br />
</address>
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		<title>The Royal Residence</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/royal-residence/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/royal-residence/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 13:10:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>John O' Ceallaigh</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cover Features]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Fancy a bit of Britannia? There's a package that offers the best of Queen and country.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_17852" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 210px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/41-Lounge.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17852" title="41 Lounge" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/41-Lounge-232x300.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="258" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">41&#39;s wood-panelled executive lounge</p></div>
<p>Not even the most ardent royalist could deny we were entitled to look down on the monarchy. My friend Charlie and I had just checked into our room at the fifth-floor <a href="http://www.41hotel.com/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">‘41’ hotel</a> on London’s Buckingham Palace Road and there beneath us lay the sweeping grounds of the Queen’s mainstay <em>pied-à-terre</em>, or part of it at least. Behind the towering sandstone-coloured barricade that blocked the view of street-level riffraff we could sneak a peek into the cobbled courtyard of The Royal Mews, the Queen’s stables, and beyond it a spread of manicured lawn and lush foliage &#8211; a vast parkland that doubles as her back garden. We couldn’t help thinking that her filthy rich neighbours must consider their own properties somewhat inconsequential by comparison, but for commoners like us our own temporary abode remained undoubtedly impressive.</p>
<p>Tucked above the better-recognised Rubens Hotel, and with just 30 rooms, the five-star 41 is unknown to many Londoners but any reasonably web-savvy traveller visiting from abroad is likely to have heard of it. On <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotels-g186338-London_England-Hotels.html" class="liexternal">Trip Advisor</a>, the world’s largest travel review site, it regularly sits on the top of the list as the most popular of London’s 1,000+ reviewed hotels. And it caters well to an international crowd in search of a more understated and traditional show of cool Britannia.</p>
<p>The hotel’s main communal area is its executive lounge, a wood-panelled library-style room lined with row upon row of musty first editions and the occasional bust of an erstwhile dignitary.  It’s all terribly grand and imposing but saved from being impersonal by the attentiveness of the staff, who provided us with a revitalising glass of champagne to see us through the menial task of checking in and took time to explain the hotel’s features to us. Among our favourites was its ‘plunder the pantry’ offer, a complimentary buffet of deli-style meats and cheeses, fresh pastries and crusty breads, creamy Belgian chocolates and other similarly delectable items laid out for guests suddenly inconvenienced by an unexpected pang of hunger. Next to it lay the hotel’s honesty bar, replete with aged whiskies and the type of specialist spirits strangely absent from most bars’ two-for-one cocktail lists. Guests can help themselves to whatever concoction they wish and then write their intake in a book, the bill to be added to their room later. Although the signed declarations of alcohol imbibed either by yourself or your neighbours are shielded from public view by a tactfully placed palm leaf, the guests we saw sway their way to the bar seemed to be in full compliance with the system. Truly, you know you’ve made it when the staff at your hotel feels you can be trusted with an unattended drinks cabinet.</p>
<p>Guests who overindulge may find themselves somewhat disorientated when they enter their room, however – it’s akin to diving into a crossword puzzle. Although each room is different they all conform to a black-and-white colour scheme and many are speckled by exquisitely crafted antique further or original artworks. Our own generously sized room stood on a plush carpet, crisscrossed by deep strands of the aforementioned colours and in its centre lay a huge, deeply comfortable bed bandaged by layer upon layer of crisp white bedding. Our brilliantly bright bathroom drew on a similar palette and was stocked generously with fluffy towels, oversized robes and a supply of toiletries from esteemed London perfumery Penhaligon’s, which has traded since Edwardian times.</p>
<div id="attachment_17923" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 210px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/WDR.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-17923" title="WDR" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/WDR.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="281" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The White Drawing Room at Buck House</p></div>
<p>The hotel’s entire ambience is so resolutely British that it has joined with its sister <a href="http://www.redcarnationhotels.com/?utm_source=Google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_term=red+carnation+hotels&amp;utm_content=null&amp;utm_campaign=Exact&amp;rw.cm=google,ppc,red+carnation+hotels" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Red Carnation Hotels</a> properties to capitalise on its proximity to the monarchy and offer a Royal Day Out package until October 29th, taking in the most regal attractions that lay nearby. We undertook the programme the next day, following a full English breakfast with a trip to <a href="http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/default.asp?action=article&amp;ID=30" target="_blank" class="liexternal">The State Rooms</a>. Part of Buckingham Palace, these are a series of magnificently ornate rooms gilded in gold and illuminated by gargantuan crystal chandeliers, and open to the public only for a limited time each summer – when the Queen decamps to her Scottish holiday home, Balmoral Castle.</p>
<p>We wandered long corridors laced with masterpieces by the likes of Rembrandt and Rubens but the biggest thrill was thinking that at another time of year we may just as easily have stumbled upon the Queen relaxing at home, perhaps plonked in front of <em>Eastenders </em>in her pyjamas or knitting something nice for William or Harry. As it was, we timed our visit wrongly and had to endure the hoi polloi for company instead. I have never encountered such an oppressive amount of people in any other London gallery or museum. Seemingly providing confirmation of the royal family’s worth to the tourism industry, vast crowds visit The State Rooms throughout the summer. We had to register to enter at a specific time and were carried through the palace with the current of tour groups who had booked the same bracket. A small mercy was the ban on photography meaning groups weren’t given further reason to dally and obstruct us but to maximise your visit it’s best to arrive as early as possible, while staff advise it’s also much better to come on weekdays than weekends.</p>
<p>While not garnering quite as much traveller kudos as visiting the Queen’s home, the nearby <a href="http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/default.asp?action=article&amp;ID=32" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Queen’s Gallery</a> is still an impressive affair. Open year round, its current “Art &amp; Love” exhibition chronicles the relationship of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert through their shared enthusiasm for art. Given her reputation as being prim and prudish, the Queen had a surprisingly <em>outré</em>, almost camp taste in art. Darkened rooms within the gallery shimmer exorbitantly with the sparkle of jewellery, shields and weaponry lavishly embellished with emeralds, rubies and diamonds; a marbled nymph with fairy wings stand sentry in a corner; and a grand piano, gilded in bronze and decorated with dancing cherubs, takes centre stage in the main display room. Didn’t Liberace own something similar? In any case it’s an intoxicating fusion of the undeniably beautiful and the endearingly bizarre, and one that’s less subject to the swell of crowds at The State Rooms next door.</p>
<div id="attachment_17854" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 211px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/41-Mastersuite.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17854" title="41 Mastersuite" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/41-Mastersuite-231x300.jpg" alt="" width="201" height="261" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">41&#39;s monochromatic Master Suite</p></div>
<p>We finished our nosy of the Queen’s properties with a tour through the <a href="http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/default.asp?action=article&amp;ID=31" target="_blank" class="liexternal">mews</a> we had spotted earlier. It’s still a working stables and the horses that cantered past us added a pleasant touch of pomp but the most impressive sight to be seen is the glistening horse-drawn Gold State Coach. Built in 1762 and now used only for grand state occasions due to its age and delicacy, it was last seen publicly during the Queen’s Golden Jubilee in 2002.</p>
<p>Although nobody can say when it might take to the streets of London again I’m ashamed to say we didn’t spend long appreciating the sheen of the carriage’s golden exterior, nor the plush red satin and Moroccan leather accoutrements &#8211; our next appointment was afternoon tea at 41 and we were running late. But before we were to sit down for sandwiches sans crusts and buttery scones smothered in jam and cream, I’d have to drop by our room and draw the curtains. Looking back towards 41 from the cobbled courtyard we had spied earlier, we couldn’t help but think the monochrome interior of our room may also be viewable to the uncouth crowds that clamoured below – we wouldn’t want them looking up at us.</p>
<address>Red Carnation Hotels’ <a href="http://redcarnationhotels.com/buckingham-palace" class="liexternal">Royal Day Out package</a> includes a full English breakfast each morning, afternoon tea and tickets to The State Rooms, The Queen’s Gallery and The Royal Mews. General prices start from £214.50 per room, per night based on two adults sharing a Classic Double room. Rates at 41 start from £288.50 per night.</address>
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		<title>Escape the Sunshine Decline</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/september-breaks/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/september-breaks/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 13:07:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Isabel Clift</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cover Features]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Head to southern Europe's still-hot spots to chase the last days of sunshine through September and October...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_18431" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Costa-de-la-Luz.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-18431" title="Costa de la Luz" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Costa-de-la-Luz-300x195.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="195" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Skies still clear but the crowds long gone at Costa de la Luz.</p></div>
<p>September spells the beginning of the end for summer: days get shorter, leaves begin to fall off trees and the air gets nippy enough to dig out your coat again. But what if you&#8217;re not quite ready for autumn yet? Prolong those sunshiney days for a little bit longer by being a climate cheat – head south to catch the last of summer&#8217;s rays. September and October are the perfect time to explore southern Europe, with bright and balmy weather still about, the school holiday crowds long gone and hotel, food and transport prices all drastically reduced. With less visitors around, your break feels more like local living than during tourist-clogged summer, too. Sometimes, the best time to get away is when everyone else has left&#8230;</p>
<h3>Road Trip: Andalucia</h3>
<p>Spain&#8217;s southernmost region Andalucia is home to golden stretches of coast, snow-capped mountains and a clutch of gorgeously atmospheric villages and towns. After arriving at Malaga, hire a car and take your time to explore, spending lazy days and nights shuttling from beach and seaside bar to town square and tapas restaurant. September and October are the perfect time for a visit, with temperatures in the low twenties (as opposed to during the blazing summer months, when capital Seville lives up to its nickname as “Spain&#8217;s frying pan”). Keep your summer going a little longer with a road trip through this sun-kissed land.</p>
<p><strong>What to do:</strong> Stick to beaches around Andalucia&#8217;s southeastern tip, the Costa del Sol and Costa de la Luz – for the former you&#8217;ll find a well-structured tourist infrastructure with a fraction of the traffic seen over the summer holiday season, and for the latter more tranquil stretches of golden plains dotted with smaller villages. The Costa de la Luz is Atlantic-facing with stronger winds, so it&#8217;s perfect for a spot of surfing this time of year, too.</p>
<p>If you fancy getting active at a higher altitude, head to Granada province to explore the gorgeous Sierra Nevada Mountains and National Park, owning Europe&#8217;s southernmost ski slopes and some amazing hiking trails. The Alhambra in Granada town is an unmissable sight too – a red-hued Moorish palace and fortress dating back to the 14<sup>th</sup> century, its looming beauty dominates the skyline.</p>
<p><strong>Where to stay:</strong> <a href="http://www.hotellafuente.com/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">La Fuente de la Higuera</a> is a striking converted olive -oil mill just outside Ronda in Malaga province, with views of the surrounding countryside as well as an outdoor pool and gourmet restaurant. Rooms start at €148pn.</p>
<div id="attachment_18432" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/santorini_sunset_2.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-18432" title="santorini_sunset_2" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/santorini_sunset_2-300x207.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="207" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Yet another stunning pink-hued sunset in Santorini</p></div>
<h3>Luxury Lounging: Santorini</h3>
<p>Santorini is the most dramatically beautiful of all the Greek islands, with traditional villages clinging to jagged cliffs above the huge blue eye of its central lagoon. Santorini’s vertiginous landscape was shaped by volcanic eruption some three thousand years ago, its steep sides forming the rim of a submerged, ancient caldera.</p>
<p>Its rather violent geological history has created some absurdly stunning sweeps of coastal scenery, with sunset views here taking on an almost mythic beauty. Temperatures in September and October hover around the low to mid-twenties, with sea water still warm enough to swim in. There couldn’t be a more relaxing or wildly beautiful place to catch some end-of-summer rays.</p>
<p><strong>What to do:</strong> To spot those million-dollar caldera views, head to Fira (Santorini’s capital), Oia, Imerovigli, Firostefani, Megalochori or Akrotiri. Fira and Oia are largest, their whitewashed houses, blue-domed churches and narrow streets stuffed with boutiques and tavernas, making for enchantingly pretty places for a wander.</p>
<p>If you fancy the quieter side of life, Santorini’s volcanic beaches are nearly vacated at this time of year – most developed are Perissa and Kamari but if you really want to get away from it all Vlihada Beach 13kms south of Fira is a quiet and beautiful spot. The island&#8217;s famed Red Beach is most dramatic of all, forming a spectacular crescent of red and black volcanic stone beneath an imposing cliff-face (bring a grass matt to lie on – the rocks get hot!). Bronze Age village Akrotiri is close by too, so make sure you check out its remarkable frescoes, still visible among the ruins.</p>
<p><strong>Where to stay:</strong> <a href="http://www.katikieshotelsantorini.com/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Katikies</a> is a terraced, traditional villa-style building built into Oia’s cliff-face. Enjoy sweeping caldera views from the infinity pool or your all-white suite’s private balcony. From €360pn.</p>
<h3>Culture Vultures: Istanbul</h3>
<p>Part-sharing the crown as European Capital of Culture 2010, Istanbul is a wonderful assault on the senses, its skyline a mishmash of Ottoman and Byzantine spires and domes mixed in with flash modern skyscrapers. Spilling across each side of the Bosphorus strait which separates Europe from Asia, it’s the world’s only major city to straddle two continents, and this eclectic heritage makes for some see-‘em-to-believe-‘em views and a unique east-meets-west cultural vibe. With temperatures averaging in the high teens and low twenties throughout September and October, it’s the perfect place for a cool city break with sunshine and super-blue skies almost guaranteed.</p>
<div id="attachment_18433" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/bazaarPots.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-18433" title="Grand Bazaar" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/bazaarPots-300x199.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="199" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Shopping in the Grand Bazaar is fun whatever the weather!</p></div>
<p><strong>What to do:</strong> Touring Istanbul is to take in one breathtaking sight after another. First on your list should be to have a good old haggle at the Grand Bazaar, Turkey’s largest covered market. Here you can ooh and ahh over everything from Ottoman rugs to tooled leather handbags, and get a feel for local life: residents shop here with just as much gusto as the visitors.</p>
<p>The domed wonders of Hagia Sophia (a 2000-year-old onetime basilica, mosque and now museum), the Blue Mosque and the lofty towers and courtyards of Topkapi Palace make for a heady mix of design perfection and cultural artefact to explore. Take a day out from the sensory overload and hop on the ferry to the Princes’ Islands, where golden beaches are great for lounging and cars are prohibited in favour of horse and cart.</p>
<p><strong>Where to Stay:</strong> <a href="http://www.ajiahotel.com/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">A’jia Hotel</a> is an all-white former Ottoman palace that sits right on the Bosphorus. Sleek, minimal rooms have gorgeous views, and the waterside restaurant terrace serves up food to die for. Rates begin at €210pn.</p>
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		<title>Travel Tales: The Beatles Tour &#8211; Hamburg</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/beatles-tour-hamburg/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/beatles-tour-hamburg/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 06:07:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>John O' Ceallaigh</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Features]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Best known as Liverpool's Fab Four, over 50 years ago The Beatles became Hamburg's honorary sons.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_18438" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 200px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/beatles.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-18438" title="beatles" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/beatles.jpg" alt="" width="190" height="248" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Beatles at Hamburg&#39;s Top Ten Club</p></div>
<p>Thirty-something Stefanie Hempel is obsessed with men in their 60s and 70s and she wants everyone to know about it. We’ve joined her for a tour along Hamburg’s notorious Reeperbahn and amidst the glare of neon-fronted sex shops and the cat calls of nearby prostitutes it’s easy to accept as harmless her own particular predilection. The love affair isn’t monogamous though – people throughout the city have had an enduring relationship with the men who would become known globally as The Beatles and this year is something of a golden anniversary for the city.</p>
<p>On August 17 1960 the Liverpool group performed for the first time in Hamburg, in the now-defunct club Indra, and so began a two-year love affair with the city that saw them perform there a staggering 281 times. A musician and Hamburg resident herself, Stefanie’s adulation for the group is deep-rooted. “I heard their music for the first time when I was nine years old and it was a turning point in my life&#8230; From that point on I didn’t think about anything else but music.”</p>
<p>Joining other Beatles obsessives, tourists and Hamburg locals our tour kicks off by one of the rather insalubrious bars that unravel from the Reeperbahn where Stefanie shoots out a few facts before whipping out a ukulele and bursting into the first of many Beatles songs. And suddenly we’re reminded why the Beatles are still so popular. Without realising we even knew the words we’re all suddenly singing along to <em>Help </em>on the middle of the street, as drunks stagger past and the bars and clubs and strip joints open their doors for another night’s raucous entertainment. It’s a reminder that, in some ways, this part of Hamburg has changed little since the Beatles lived here. Back then, the port deposited a steady stream of sailors at the city and an industry of hard-living wayfarers was on hand to service their needs.</p>
<p>Stefanie tells us that the teenagers from Liverpool weren’t fully prepared for their new surroundings. Gigs in Liverpool finished early but in Hamburg the band was often expected to play from 7pm to 7am, at one period even playing 98 concerts in a row at the city’s Top Ten Club. Without enough songs in their repertoire they would string out the same tracks over and over, repeating the chorus and chords so that what was a three-minute track would instead last 15, 20, 30 minutes. Youthful enthusiasm and a growing dependence on drugs saw them through it but John Lennon later reflected that this time was fundamental in their development as a band “Every song lasted 20 minutes and had 20 solos in it. That&#8217;s what improved the playing. There was nobody to copy from. We played what we liked best and the Germans liked it as long as it was loud.&#8221;</p>
<div id="attachment_18440" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 200px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Beatles-Platz.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-18440" title="Beatles Platz" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Beatles-Platz.jpg" alt="" width="190" height="250" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Ready for a song? Beatles Platz today</p></div>
<p>But of course they developed in other ways too. As Stefanie guides us through the city’s red-light district she recounts how their burgeoning success at the start of the swinging sixties saw them become increasingly well-received by locals. It was quite obvious exactly what Lennon really meant when he commented “I was born in Liverpool. But I grew up in Hamburg”; Paul McCartney, meanwhile, referred to Hamburg as “a sex shock”. Another lasting impression the city made was to their appearance. Before their arrival in Hamburg the teenagers modelled their appearance on Elvis Presley and the rockers of the ‘50s. In Hamburg they copied the local look and ended up with the mop-top haircut that would become a defining style of the following decade.</p>
<p>As the tour draws to a close Stefanie guides us to the city’s ‘Beatles Square’, overlooking the neon blast of bars and clubs from the adjacent Grosse Freiheit (Great Freedom) street, and leads a rendition of <em>Come Together</em>. A crowd of American tourists joins in, a Chinese tour group stops to take photos and we can’t help but marvel at how these old guys can still drive the crowds wild.</p>
<p>Stefanie Hempel’s <a href="http://www.hamburg-tourism.de/veranstaltungen/rundfahrten-und-gaenge/die-beatles-auf-st-pauli/" class="liexternal">tour</a> takes place on Saturdays from 7pm, and runs until October. It is generally held in German but can also be conducted in English. Other Beatles tours and activities take place throughout the year. Visit <a href="http://www.hamburg-tourism.de" class="liexternal">Hamburg Tourism</a> for more information.</p>
<p><em>Germany’s national airline, <a href="http://www.lufthansa.com/online/portal/lh_com/de/homepage" class="liexternal">Lufthansa</a> offers 562 direct European flights to Hamburg a week. Return fares from   within Europe cost from €99, including all taxes, charges and baggage   allowance.</em></p>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
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<p><em><br />
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		<title>Raison d’Etre Spa – Stockholm</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/raison-detre-spa-stockholm/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/raison-detre-spa-stockholm/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 20:40:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy Ma</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cover Features]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Features]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Grand Hôtel Stockholm]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Massage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Raison d'Etre]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[well-being]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Nestled in the Grand Hôtel on Stockholm’s waterfront, the Raison d’Etre spa will help you find a reason for
indulging.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_17869" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/rde11.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-17869" title="rde1" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/rde11.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A chic, tranquil treatment room at the Raison d’Etre spa</p></div>
<p>Being is richer and more fulfilling than simply doing.  According to the <a href="http://www.grandhotel.se/in_english/default.asp" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Grand Hôtel Stockholm</a>’s freshly launched spa, this is what living is really about – hence the name, Raison d’Etre.  Proudly protruding along Stockholm’s waterfront, the Grand Hôtel houses a nature-inspired haven not quite as predictable as one might think.</p>
<p>Built on &#8216;a palette of granite, Nordic ash, creams and whites&#8217;, the Grand’s <a href="http://www.grandhotel.se/in_english/spa/default.asp" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Raison d’Etre</a> evokes the Stockholm archipelagoalongside sweet details such as branch-shaped doorknobs and a red water lily motif, specific to Northern Sweden.  Fellow Stockholmer friends joke about the Grand Hôtel as the &#8216;be all and end all&#8217; in accommodation – something to admire but not really a justifiable expense.  I’ve heard it described as both the grand old dame of Stockholm, beautiful and luxurious – but also stiff and intimidating.  It’s a pleasant surprise, then, to discover the tranquil mood and get-back-to-nature aesthetic of Raison d’Etre.</p>
<p>The spa markets its <a href="http://www.raisondetrespa.se/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">‘own experiences’</a> as treatments in which a therapist will review their guest’s individual needs, “rather than simply following a formula”.  The range of services available also extends to<a href="http://www.raisondetrespa.se/" target="_blank" class="liexternal"> specialist treatments</a> such as reflexology and acupuncture to therapies <a href="http://www.raisondetrespa.se/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">tailored for the boys</a>.</p>
<p>On arrival at Raison d’Etre, hostess Josefin leads me to my locker to change, accessed with a keycard (which, when touched to the door handle should unlock it but amusingly doesn’t in the case of most guests). After changing, my masseuse, Katarina, leads me to a treatment room and outlines the <a href="http://www.raisondetrespa.se/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">‘Be Balanced’ experience</a> I’m about to have.  One of the most popular treatments during winter, Be Balanced is designed to soothe and invigorate.  As Katarina mentions mung seed pillows and peppermint and dill butter, I have to stifle a giggle because it sounds like she’s describing a salad.  They do have a purpose, however – the pillows are heated to “dissolve tension” and the butter smoothes skin into a silky medium for massage.</p>
<p>Katarina begins by using hot towels and lathering my feet in a birch-infused lotion, then wrapping them in a layer of plastic and a further fluffy towel.  She then works on my entire body, interspersing her host of intriguing tools with her hands.  I must admit that I’m glad I didn’t see them before the session began – ‘round stone pillows’ for example.  However, Katarina’s deft movements must have the Midas touch as my limbs definitely feel lighter.  But the best thing about Be Balanced is my masseuse’s hands – aided by the organic, divine smelling butter, Katarina explains that she follows the lymphatic lines of the body, which, with the heated mung pillows, will help it gently re-align.</p>
<p>The treatment finishes up a blissful two hours later with focus on the upper back, scalp and feet.  Katarina notes that I have a lot of tension in my <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trapezius_muscle" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" class="liwikipedia">trapezius</a>, which she explains is &#8216;the only muscle connected to the brain&#8217;. She recommends always sitting with arms at a 45 degree angle and rolling your shoulders to relax.  Smiling, she says she’s never met a person who didn’t have tension there.</p>
<p>Venturing out to explore Raison d’Etre’s playground, I get a sort of chrysalis feeling emerging into the cool spa.  The Scandinavian penchant for clean lines spliced with the glamour of a luxury spa exists throughout.  Shimmering mosaics depicting trees and lakes contrast with the cool, shotgun-toned tiles – a far cry from the 18<sup>th</sup> century décor I was expecting.  Raison d’Etre is mazelike, with saunas and bubble pools appearing at every turn.  The two key features though are the main pool, and sauna/plunge pool located near the ladies’ changing rooms.  I have a stroke of luck and score a swim in solitude in the main pool.  With its cascading wall waterfalls and blue-grey tones, it evokes childhood memories of exploring rockpools – the perfect place to wind down.</p>
<div id="attachment_17870" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/rd2.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-17870" title="rd2" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/rd2.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Relax in Raison d&#39;Etre&#39;s luxurious plunge pool...</p></div>
<p>The true Scandinavian experience, however, can only be found in ‘det svenska badet’ – the Swedish bath.  Blending extreme temperatures is a favourite pastime whether you’re in Stockholm, Lappland, Oslo or Helsinki.  More specifically, it involves having a steaming sauna session, then launching yourself into the nearest patch of snow – or in this case, Raison d’Etre’s gorgeous plunge pool (12 degrees on the day I visited).  Needless to say, the group of American girls celebrating a hens’ weekend were a tad “surprised” after trying their luck!</p>
<p>A highlight is the quiet room, equipped with lounge beds, headphones playing soothing sounds and magazines.  It is here that I relax before sampling the baths, and despite the sunny weather outside, would be content to curl up in here all day.</p>
<p>The Raison d’Etre staff operate on a near-impeccable service level, with the exception of one cranky assistant who muttered that the reception would answer my query.  English is spoken perfectly; the only issue seems to be the keycards for the lockers (though mine worked flawlessly). There’s a word in Swedish, mysigt, which translates roughly to cosy.  The fun aspect of Raison d’Etre is the pride with which they demonstrate the Scandinavian ability to gain comfort from a sauna – even in summer.  Although Raison d’Etre avoids a formulaic approach to their massages, their combination of earthy hues, wooden textures and intensive ‘experiences’ prove that cosy can be as rejuvenating as refreshing.</p>
<p>The Be Balanced treatment lasts two hours and includes use of the spa. More information on Raison d’Etre Stockholm can be found online <a href="http://www.raisondetrespa.se/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">here</a>.</p>
<address>Raison d’Etre Spa</address>
<address>Grand Hôtel Stockholm</address>
<address>S. Blasieholmshamnen 8<br />
</address>
<address>SE-103 27 Stockholm</address>
<address>+46 (0)8 679 35 75</address>
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		<title>The Great British Beach Break</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/great-british-beach-break/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/great-british-beach-break/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Aug 2010 12:59:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>John O' Ceallaigh</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cover Features]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Features]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jetsetter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[B&B Brighton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beach break Brighton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beach break England]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[boutiques in Brighton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brighton accommodation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brighton Pier]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brighton pride]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brighton weekend break]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food for Friends Brighton]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Guest and the City Brighton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Guest and the City review]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Palace Pier]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pub du Vin Brighton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Royal Pavilion Brighton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Royal Pavillion Brighton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[short break]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[travel to Brighton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vintage shops in Brighton]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[weekend break England]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[West Pier Brighton]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[If London is the grande dame of English cities then Brighton must be the endearingly wayward aunt who routinely drinks too much sherry at parties...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_17790" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 215px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/palace-pier-brighton.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-17790" title="palace pier brighton" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/palace-pier-brighton.jpg" alt="" width="205" height="276" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Brighton&#39;s historic landmark: Palace Pier</p></div>
<p>It’s dusk when we finally arrive in Brighton and as the sun sets drowsily on another summer’s day we introduce ourselves to the town with a slow stroll down the long timbered plank that forms its landmark Palace Pier. The hazy smell of fluffy pink candyfloss and melted sugar envelops us as we walk past stalls selling ‘doughlicious doughnuts’ and a medley of processed treats to ‘Brighton up your day’. We order two watery 99s with thick drizzles of synthetic syrup and slurp contentedly onwards.</p>
<p>Seagulls squeal shrilly above us as a mangled log flume clanks ominously to our left and two spotty Spanish language-exchange students lock braces to our right, but despite the aggressive assault on our senses we’re charmed. Walking along this anachronistic old pier is like walking back in time and even before our 99s have soaked their cardboard-flavoured cones into pulp we’re transported to the seaside holidays we took as children. The flavours and smells and sights and feelings are the same now as they were then and it’s lovely; we retire to striped deckchairs for a few moments to rest and reminisce as the evening darkens.</p>
<p>But we return to the present day quickly. Looking to the shore we see a gaggle of girls in neon wigs and pink lycra screech and stumble their way along the promenade. Helpfully, they’ve emblazoned their titles on their t-shirts and we can just about see Blowjob Becky wrap her chapped lips around a Bacardi Breezer as Sex-mad Suzy vomits daintily on the blunted pebbles of Brighton Beach.</p>
<p>If London is the <em>grande dame </em>of English cities then Brighton must be the endearingly wayward aunt who routinely drinks too much sherry at parties and is starting to look a bit rough around the edges. Most who enter the town as visitors do so after travelling either for an hour by train from London, or for half an hour from Gatwick Airport, and first impressions could be considered disappointing. The old Queen’s Road that leads from the station is clogged with nondescript office blocks and a smattering of fried chicken shops, the salt air peeling their greyed facades, but it’s a depressing preamble that’s easily averted if you take an alternative route.</p>
<p>Brighton’s bland high streets may be depressingly indistinct but the warren of avenues that emanate from them are something special. Most famous are The Lanes, a cobbled coil of pedestrianised laneways that once housed fishermen’s homes and which are now converted to small jewellers, quirky boutiques and a clutter of independent cafes (if you get hungry one that’s in keeping with Brighton’s convivial character and particularly worth visiting is <a href="http://www.foodforfriends.com/" class="liexternal">Food for Friends</a>, which is the town’s oldest vegetarian restaurant).</p>
<div id="attachment_17791" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 215px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/north-laine.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-17791" title="north laine" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/north-laine.jpg" alt="" width="205" height="247" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Alfresco dining in vibrant North Laine</p></div>
<p>Better still, and more popular with locals, is North Laine, a nearby district that bristles with bohemia. The vintage stores here are of the old and musty stable, stocked with plenty of tat but rewarding diligent shoppers with affordable, original designs. The sprawling Snoopers’ Paradise (7-8 Kensington Garden) is the best of the bunch, with its innards a discombobulating trail of old phones, retro furniture, intriguing curios, cute dresses and handmade shoes – you could while away hours in there and many people happily do. More modern and less cluttered are the many independently run boutiques that surround it.</p>
<p>Nearby <a href="http://jell-o.co.uk/" class="liexternal">Jell-o</a> was set up to rival the more stylish boutiques of London, with more experimental clothing and designers such as Vivienne Westwood regularly in stock; <a href="http://www.hopeandharlequin.com/index.php?page/about+us,Welcome.htm" class="liexternal">Hope &amp; Harlequin</a>, meanwhile, is a sumptuous treasure trove of individually selected vintage pieces. Custom-made jewellery and immaculately preserved dresses from the 1930s and ‘40s are specialities, although their high quality is matched by proportionately high prices. A patchwork of alfresco cafes and smoothie bars thread the remaining fragments of the Laine’s shopping streets in place, but perhaps the most pleasurable way to find refuge from the crowds is to escape to one of the residential streets nearby. Brighton’s unaffected air is evoked here too, with long rows of whitewashed cottages blotted by pastel-coloured doorways and curtained by luminescent cascades of fragrant flowers.</p>
<p>The natural appeal of those houses is contrasted spectacularly by what remains Brighton’s most famous (former) residence, the <a href="http://www.brighton-hove-rpml.org.uk/RoyalPavilion/Pages/home.aspx" class="liexternal">Royal Pavilion</a>. Built as a home for George, the Prince Regent, at the turn of the 19<sup>th</sup> century, the incredibly opulent, astoundingly ostentatious building was modelled on a Chinese whispers version of Oriental architecture. Arbitrarily referencing Indian palaces and Chinese courts, its confused interiors are a riot of gilded banquet halls and luxuriant ballrooms decorated in deep red and ochre. It’s hugely impressive – in the sense that it makes a huge impression – but even those with the most muted of tastes in interior design won’t fail to appreciate its beguiling peculiarity.</p>
<p>Wherever you stay is likely to seem almost desperately mundane in comparison but Brighton has plenty of excellent accommodation options. Connected to the Hotel du Vin next door, the <a href="http://www.hotelduvin.com/pub-du-vin/brighton" class="liexternal">Pub du Vin</a> retains an intimate feel with its 11 rooms inspired by Brighton’s coastal setting. Their bleached timber floors are offset by salvaged pieces of driftwood, deckchair stripes and whimsical old photos of the town, while the pub itself serves a commendable selection of British beers and ales and European wines.</p>
<div id="attachment_17792" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 220px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/banquet-hall.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-17792" title="banquet hall" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/banquet-hall.jpg" alt="" width="210" height="263" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Royal Pavilion&#39;s ornate Banquet Hall</p></div>
<p>We chose to stay somewhere with even more local character, however, and selected the independently run <a href="http://www.guestandthecity.co.uk/index.html" class="liexternal">Guest and the City</a> near the waterfront. A converted townhouse operated by Chris and his partner Ben, it’s one of a number of guesthouses and B&amp;Bs that are long-established family businesses. And, of course, staying in someone’s home is a much more intimate way of experiencing a destination. Chris was on hand to give an honest appraisal of what was and was not worth doing in the city, lend us DVDs from his private collection if the weather proved inclement and, most importantly, rustle up a revitalising homemade breakfast if we managed to make it from bed before 10am – we weren’t entirely successful with the last one but Brighton’s nightlife will have to take the blame for that.</p>
<p>And despite the initially unfavourable impression made by Blowjob Becky and her coven, Brighton’s nightlife holds its own distinct charms. The Lanes are a clamour of activity each evening, with chic cocktail bars and traditional pubs open late and busy seemingly every night of the week, while Brighton’s famous – albeit somewhat dated &#8211; gay scene is another adjunct specific to the town. The best place to take Brighton in, however, remains from the wooden rafters of the Palace Pier. Just across from it, the charred remains of the town’s West Pier – destroyed by fire in 2003 – curl from the English Channel like arthritic fingers and the long expanse of stony Brighton Beach bustles with hens and stags, countryside day-trippers and migrant city slickers, sunburnt families and tanned young surfers. It may not be the archetypical seaside vista of shimmering inlets and virgin sands, but as a synopsis of all that’s good and bad and ugly and beautiful about this multifaceted and mesmerising country, Brighton stands fast as the definitive Great British beach break.</p>
<address>Brighton’s official visitor portal, <a href="http://www.visitbrighton.com/" class="liexternal">Visit Brighton</a>, provides comprehensive information about the town.</address>
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		<title>Five of Our Favourites… Rural Retreats</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/favourites%e2%80%a6-rural-retreats/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/favourites%e2%80%a6-rural-retreats/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:30:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>John O' Ceallaigh</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Big Feature Box]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Cinq Mondes Spa review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[countryside escape]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Intercontinental Berchtesgaden review]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Suffering from festival fatigue? Head for the hills and reclaim your patch of countryside with our guide to Europe’s best rural retreats.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_17556" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 298px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Watzmann.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17556" title="Watzmann" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Watzmann-300x212.jpg" alt="" width="288" height="203" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Berchtesgaden with snow-capped Mount Watzmann </p></div>
<p>We’re over it! This summer’s festival season may have sounded a tempting proposition way back in the early days of May but it’s a charm that’s faded quickly – that country air doesn’t smell quite so fresh when your tent is pitched beside a row of portaloos; the subtle chirper of birdsong rings less melodic against the blare of experimental rock from the New Age stage. If you’re suffering a bout of festival fatigue head for the hills and reclaim your patch of countryside with our guide to Europe’s best rural retreats.</p>
<h3>Intercontinental Berchtesgaden &#8211; Berchtesgaden</h3>
<p>Those averse to crowds would be best advised to avoid Bavaria’s well-to-do capital Munich come September – this is when millions of visitors descend on the city for its annual Oktoberfest. The nearby region of Berchtesgaden is an altogether more languid proposition at any time of the year, however. A municipality that ripples along the Austrian border, it lies in the shadow of the Alps and is dominated by the 2,713m Mount Watzmann. Best toured in a rented BMW – the acronym does stand for Bavarian Motor Works after all, so rocking up in a Mercedes may not go down too well with the locals – the entire landscape is an undulating sweep of verdant valleys, soaring peaks, wooden chalets swamped by flowerboxes and cows wearing heavy bronze bells. It&#8217;s pretty much a real-life version of any Heidi-the-milkmaid fantasy you’d care to think of then.</p>
<p>The most stylish accommodation option in the region is the five-star <a href="http://www.berchtesgaden.intercontinental.com/" class="liexternal">Intercontinental Berchtesgaden</a>, which is wedged 1,000 metres above a plain of lakes and woodland and has drawn discerning celebrities and German politicians in equal measures over the years. Admittedly that endorsement is tainted somewhat when you consider that one of the most notable visitors was Adolf Hitler, but nowadays the region stands solidly and serenely as one of the most tranquil regions in all of Germany.</p>
<address>Rooms at the Intercontinental Berchtesgaden cost from €204 a night. Germany’s national airline <a href="http://www.lufthansa.com/" class="liexternal">Lufthansa</a> has a regional base at Munich and offers frequent, affordable flights to the city.</address>
<address> </address>
<h3>Hotel Porto Santo &#8211; Porto Santo</h3>
<p>It almost feels like cheating to classify Porto Santo a European rural retreat – this tiny Portuguese island is part of the Madeira Archipelago yet the continent it lies closest to is Africa. No bad thing when you consider that the southerly setting means the islands enjoy warm weather whatever the season and that the deep ravines and soaring mountains that thread across their boundaries are perfumed by bright blossoms that bloom year round. With Porto Santo a twenty-minute flight from the main island of Madeira, which is itself a three-hour flight from much of mainland Europe, it takes relatively little effort to truly get away from it all.</p>
<p>The island is home to a permanent population of less than 5,000 so there’s plenty of space for everyone along the nine kilometres of crushed-coral beaches that ribbon their way along the island’s perimeter. Although be prepared for an unusual site should you stumble upon some of the island’s more seasoned visitors. Tests have shown that the beaches are rich in minerals that benefit bone density and digestion when absorbed in controlled quantities and tourists who suffer from ailments such as rheumatism and arthritis have been known to submerge themselves in the sand to ease their discomfort. For a more comfortable stay, however, we would recommend you reside in one of <a href="http://www.hotelportosanto.com/" class="liexternal">Hotel Porto Santo</a>’s luxury villas.</p>
<address>Rooms at Hotel Porto Santo cost from €180 a night; villas cost from €400 a night.</address>
<address> </address>
<div id="attachment_17666" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 280px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/lefay.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-17666" title="lefay" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/lefay.jpg" alt="" width="270" height="197" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Stunning views over Lake Garda at the Lefay</p></div>
<h3>Lefay Resort &amp; Spa &#8211; Lake Garda</h3>
<p>Italians have a near monopoly on <em>la dolce vita</em> but its definition has changed. While the term once covered the pleasures of fine wine, fresh food and effortless style it’s now come to include overall wellbeing. Espousing these attributes is the <a href="http://www.lefayresorts.com/" class="liexternal">Lefay Resort and Spa</a> which overlooks the tranquil Lake Garda in the Alto Garda National Park. Views of the surrounding countryside, shimmering lake and age-old villages that stretch from the resort’s 500-metre-high perch are spectacular and you should ideally appreciate them from the infinity pool, champagne cocktail to hand.</p>
<p>For more focused rejuvenation, however, guests can revive their senses at the spa, which merges the preventative approach of classical Chinese medicine with modern western techniques to ensure guests gain genuine benefit from their treatments. Complementing this approach is Lefay Vital Gourmet, a culinary approach which draws from locally grown ingredients and reinterprets the traditional Italian diet to make dishes even healthier, while the resort’s owners have shown further commitment to the awe-inspiring setting that surrounds them with an award-winning sustainability policy.</p>
<address>Rooms at the Lefay Resort and Spa cost from €420 a night.</address>
<address> </address>
<h3>Dolce La Hulpe &#8211; Brussels</h3>
<p>As the administrative heartland of Europe, you’d expect Brussels to be more unremitting cityscape than leisurely idyll but the city’s energy-sapped eurocrats have a get-out clause should bureaucracy prove too burdensome. Stretched across the southeast of the Belgian capital, Sonian Forest is a 4,421-hectare (10,920-acre) woodland and nature reserve shrouded by centuries-old oak and beech trees and big enough to give the sensation of being adrift in the countryside while all the time being in easy reach of the convenience of the city.</p>
<p>In the midst of the forest, the <a href="http://www.dolce-la-hulpe-brussels-hotel.com/" class="liexternal">Dolce La Hulpe</a> hotel faces 178 acres of jogging trails and mountain-biking routes, while those who like to experience serenity more sedentary can appreciate the woodland view from the hotel’s Cinq Mondes Spa. Crafted from wood and stone, the 800-square-metre building blends seamlessly with its surroundings and its beauticians’ soothing hands can massage the strain from even the most stressed-out city dweller; they’ve honed their craft on some of Europe’s most slippery politicians after all&#8230;</p>
<address>Rooms at the Dolce La Hulpe Brussels hotel cost from just €76 a night.</address>
<address> </address>
<h3>Hotel Ranga &#8211; Iceland</h3>
<p>Nowhere in Europe embodies the full awe-inspiring force of nature quite as Iceland does. From geyser to glacier to geothermal spring, the terrain of this tiny country teems with an unfair share of sights and wonders both vivid and ethereal. An hour from the capital Reykjavik, it’s in Iceland’s dramatically named ‘Ring of Fire’ that much of the country’s geothermal and volcanic activity is concentrated, and embedded here is the isolated (but well-connected) <a href="http://www.hotelranga.is/" class="liexternal">Hotel Ranga</a>.</p>
<div id="attachment_17558" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Ranga.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17558" title="Ranga" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Ranga-300x199.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="199" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Northern Lights viewed from Hotel Ranga&#39;s outdoor hot tub</p></div>
<p>Situated beside a river, the hotel is bordered by the looming Mount Hekla volcano to the north and the remote Westman Islands to the south, with plunging waterfalls, geothermal pools, hiking trails and whale-watching routes all speckled in between. It’s all incredibly invigorating should you be willing to take the time to explore it – which, of course, you should – but experiencing the most natural wonder of all requires no effort on your part. Cast your gaze up on a clear, crisp winter’s night and you might be lucky enough to see the fabled Northern Lights, a mesmerising drift of iridescent ribbons that illuminate Iceland’s unsullied skies in cold weather.</p>
<address>Rooms at Hotel Ranga cost from €234-€164 per night, in high season and low season respectively.<a href="http://www.icelandexpress.com/" class="liexternal"> Iceland Express</a> offers economical flights to Reykjavik from throughout Europe, with fares from London costing from £89, including taxes.</address>
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		<title>All Aboard Oslo</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/oslo/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/oslo/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:00:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Isabel Clift</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cover Features]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[bar review]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Munch Museum]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Oslo]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Oslo Opera House]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[The Villa Oslo]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[A capital flanked by fjords and fir forests, Oslo mixes Nordic style with natural living.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_17588" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 290px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Grims1.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17588" title="Grims" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Grims1-300x209.jpg" alt="" width="280" height="195" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Grims Grenka, Oslo&#39;s first design hotel</p></div>
<p>Oslo is relatively undiscovered compared to its Scandinavian sisters, which makes a weekend away feel a bit like discovering a really good secret.</p>
<p>Small enough to properly explore, and unfussily pretty (the term ‘chocolate box’ doesn’t exist in Scando design); Norway’s capital makes for a stylish city break that, in some ways, doesn&#8217;t feel like a city break at all.</p>
<p>You’re never swallowed by tourist herds here, for starters. This might be to do with, yep, some steep pricing (a main course is around £20/€24, a pint of local beer £7/€8.20), and no obvious check-the-box sights like in London or Paris, but Oslo’s laidback charm has its own power.</p>
<p>One stroll through streets lined with pastel-coloured houses, or a cruise on the glittering, forest-flanked and island-dotted Oslo Fjord, and you’ll start to feel the place&#8217;s effect.</p>
<p>So, what to do on a Friday to Sunday visit? There&#8217;s plenty to cram in&#8230;</p>
<h3>Friday</h3>
<p>Check in to <a href="http://www.travelintelligence.com/luxury-hotels/norway/oslo/grims-grenka-hotel" class="liexternal">Grims Grenka</a>, a two-year-old design hotel and Oslo&#8217;s coolest address. Rooms start at £130/€150 and are of a clean, minimalist style, bolstered by some essential bits of Scandinavian design including Bang &amp; Olufsen entertainment systems and super-comfy Jensen beds. Cutting-edge looks and moody lighting are tempered by the friendliest of staff, who&#8217;ll happily recommend bars and restaurants and even fetch you blankets if you feel the chill during midnight drinks at the rooftop bar. This roof space is the real gem of an already fantastic hotel. Night-time never gets past the twilight stage in Oslo during summer, so you can sit up here until late and enjoy views all the way to the surrounding hills. Yummy cocktails start at £7/€8.20, an exception to the ‘twice the price of home’ rule that applies with most food and drink.</p>
<p>You can stay out at the roof bar until 2am, but if you want to step up the tempo a little, eastside suburb Grünerløkka is your best bet for clubbing. An unobtrusive doorway on Møllergata leads to basement club <a href="http://www.thevilla.no/" class="liexternal">The Villa</a> (under equally cool Hell’s Kitchen bar and restaurant, Møllergata 23; entry £10/€12) and a five-minute walk further east brings you to <a href="http://www.blaaoslo.no/" class="liexternal">Blå</a> (Brenneriveien 9; entry £10/€12), graffiti-covered inside and out. Blå also has a cute riverside-set outdoor lounge strung with fairy lights, which is perfect for watching dawn break again in the (very) early hours&#8230;</p>
<div id="attachment_17591" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 200px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Vigeland1.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17591" title="Vigeland" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Vigeland1-225x300.jpg" alt="" width="190" height="253" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Vigeland Sculpture Park</p></div>
<h3>Saturday</h3>
<p>The pinball effect of shuttling from one supposed must-do sight to another (and none of it living up to the hype – a city-break thing that happens all too often) never really comes in to it with Oslo – it&#8217;s a place you feel you’re discovering on your own. Having said that, tell anyone who’s been to Olso that you’re going there and they’ll recommend you see either one or both of Vigeland Park and the <a href="http://www.munch.museum.no/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Munch Museum</a>, and we&#8217;re no different. Both are interesting, engaging places to go and their small, accessible scale means you can explore without feeling lost or, even worse, bored.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s at the Munch Museum (Tøyengata 53, entry £7.50/€9), where, amongst the painter’s other melancholic works, a version of The Scream can be seen in the flesh. The painting was briefly stolen a few years ago, and the museum lamentably notes an almost undetectable bit of water-damage in one of its corners.</p>
<p>After all this rather satisfying bleakness, Vigeland Sculpture Park in Frogner on the west side of the city offers a bit of outdoorsy respite, though still with an artistic edge. The park is filled with giant bronze and granite human sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, which have the collective effect of being touching, beautiful and disconcerting at the same time.</p>
<p>Oslo&#8217;s also marvellous to explore by water. On Saturday evening, take a three-hour <a href="http://boatsightseeing.com" class="liexternal">commercial cruise</a> from Aker Brygge for a bite-size look at Oslo Fjord, sailing around islands populated by colourful, wood-panelled houses and coastal hills with Grand Designs-style homes rising from fir forests. Here you get a feel for the real fluidity that exists between rural and urban living in Norway – and get to have a nosy at the idyllic weekend hideaways of Oslo&#8217;s clean-living locals.</p>
<h3>Sunday</h3>
<p>Sunday wouldn’t be complete without a stroll around a market, so it’s back to Grünerløkka for a daytime peep around club Blå’s Sunday flea market. The place is transformed by sellers offering trendy, affordable ranges of handmade accessories, retro homeware and great quality vintage clothes (check out Benedicte Hetty Balner’s stall in particular, where the delectable clothes, bags, shoes and jewellery are sourced from her travels to Argentina).</p>
<p>It’s then a two-minute stroll along Akerselva River to the main street Markveien and its strip of cute-as-a-button second-hand stores. Other notable places include art gallery-cum-bar <a href="http://www.soundofmu.no/" class="liexternal">Sound of Mu</a> (Markveien 58) and Bugges restaurant (Leirfallsgate 6) with its delicious modern menu and granny-chic interior. Sit outside here and watch Grünerløkka&#8217;s resident mix of yummy mummies and students make the pavement their catwalk.</p>
<p>If you’re in need of some chill-out time after pounding the streets, head to central thoroughfare Karl Johans gate and the top-floor spa at the <a href="http://www.grand.no/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">Grand Hotel</a> (Karl Johans gate 31). This historic venue hosts the Nobel peace prize every November and19th-century playwright Henrik Ibsen made its cafe his favourite spot. The upstairs spa is in contrast a thing of sleek, modern beauty, all slate tiles and underwater disco lights in the pool. Sweat out your cares in the compact sauna and steam rooms, get head-to-toe beauty treatments and finish it all off with by basking in the sunshine on the outdoor terrace.</p>
<div id="attachment_17590" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 260px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Opera-House.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17590" title="Opera House" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Opera-House-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="185" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The sleek, modern exterior of Oslo Opera House</p></div>
<p>Round off your Oslo weekend with a night at the opera – forget the stuffy, gilded spaces of traditional opera buildings and marvel at the angular white plains of Oslo&#8217;s modern architectural marvel, whose sloping exterior means you can scale the building all the way to the roof. Hike up here for one last look at Oslo’s panoramic bay and dappled skyline, then head down for a final-night show – a fittingly sleek and stirring conclusion to your time in this quietly dramatic city.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.norwegian.com/" class="liexternal">Norwegian.com</a> offers cheap flights to Oslo, and elsewhere in Norway, from throughout  Europe.</p>
<address>Oslo&#8217;s <a href="http://www.visitoslo.com/en/" target="_blank" class="liexternal">official tourism site</a> has more information on what to see and do in the Norwegian capital.</address>
<address> </address>
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		<title>Homegrown Holidays</title>
		<link>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/homegrown-holidays/</link>
		<comments>http://runninginheels.co.uk/articles/homegrown-holidays/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Jul 2010 14:38:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Zara Morrissey</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cover Features]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[alternative holidays]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ash cloud]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Eyjafjallajokull]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Fed up of ash-cloud alerts and had your fill of stealth budget flight fees? Running in Heels investigates the benefits of a homegrown holiday.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_17530" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/airport_queue.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-medium wp-image-17530" title="airport_queue" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/airport_queue-300x180.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="180" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">&quot;Guys, you&#39;re on holiday, relax!&quot; Or not...</p></div>
<p>Black cab to the airport at four in the morning: £60.  A congealed slice of microwaved pizza on your budget flight: £8. Spending twice as much on your one-week package holiday as you’d originally planned due to hidden costs and unexpected disruptions: &#8230; priceless?</p>
<p>I can pinpoint the exact moment that I became a convert to the idea of the homegrown holiday.  It had been a glorious blue-sky and fluffy-white-cloud kind of day in West Sussex, with the warm summer sun setting lazily over another blissful day in the countryside. I’d spent the day under a different type of light – neon, as it happens – and it was the grey cloud of depression that engulfed me as soon as the flight status of my Easyjet flight from Gatwick to Rhodes turned from <em>Please Wait</em> to <em>Cancelled</em>. Weeks after Eyjafjallajökull had first started spewing volcanic ash into the atmosphere, a dense spread of supposedly harmful residue was still hovering over the Spanish mainland. Despite my other half and I flying nowhere near the Iberian Peninsula, we too were told we’d be going nowhere – all flights were cancelled and we were to spend our holiday at home.</p>
<p>If the recession was the driving force behind the rise in popularity of the homegrown holiday, or ‘staycation’ in 2009, this year’s summer of disruption has only served to increase its status as a sensible holiday option. The hitherto unknown ash-cloud threat caused airlines unprecedented chaos; holiday goers in Greece and elsewhere were mired in protests in response to newly introduced austerity measures; BA strikes affected tens of thousands and tourists in Bangkok found themselves in the midst of rapidly escalating civil unrest during recent riots. An ominous warning of further strife to come was given by Iceland’s President, the aptly named Olafur Grimmson, who described the recent volcanic ash crisis as ‘a small rehearsal’ for larger eruptions in the near future.</p>
<p>Of course, there are worse places to be stranded than on an exotic beach holiday – work, for example, but with so much inconvenience and financial strain at stake the humble homegrown holiday is looking increasingly attractive for tourists looking to avoid unnecessary hassle. For a start, just because you’re holidaying in your home country doesn’t necessarily mean that you have to forfeit an authentic beach experience. Even cities in landlocked central Europe have got in on the action, with urban beaches springing up everywhere from Paris, where a two-mile stretch of riverfront expressway transforms into the highly popular <a href="http://www.pps.org/great_public_spaces/one?public_place_id=997" class="liexternal">Paris-Plage</a>, complete with deckchairs, hammocks and a floating pool, to Prague, Belgium and Berlin. In Copenhagen the <a href="http://www.visitdenmark.com/uk/en-gb/menu/turist/inspiration/ungferie/beach-holiday.htm?WBCMODE=Presentatio" class="liexternal">Copencabana</a> beach takes on an eclectic Moroccan theme, features an artificial beach resplendent with imported white sands, shady palm trees and a swimming bath, allowing city slickers the chance to get away from it all, even if only for an hour-long lunch break.</p>
<p>In the UK, where the weather is as variable as Easyjet’s refund policy, there are locations where even the most seasoned traveller might confuse your panoramic beach vistas for the Caribbean.  If you’re unconvinced, take a look at the <a href="http://www.carbisbayhotel.co.uk/index.html" class="liexternal">Carbis Bay Hotel</a> in St Ives, located on one of Britain’s most picturesque bays.  Established in 1894, this family-run hotel combines old-fashioned glamour with modern luxury, so you can wander around in a maxi dress feeling suitably summery and relaxed (even if it’s too chilly to use the outdoor swimming pool).  Black-and-white photographs of the buildings and staff throughout the 20<sup>th</sup> century can be found dotted around the main rooms of the hotel, adding a touch of tradition to an experience that won’t cost you the Earth, especially if you keep an eye on their frequently updated Special Offers.</p>
<div id="attachment_17698" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Mecklenburg-Vorpommern.jpg" class="liimagelink"><img class="size-full wp-image-17698" title="Mecklenburg-Vorpommern" src="http://runninginheels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Mecklenburg-Vorpommern.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Superb scenery in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern</p></div>
<p>In Germany, another country not exactly renowned for its sun and sea packages, the province of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern hides a swell of fine white sands, crystal clear waters and idyllic fishing villages along its coastline. While other Germans travel abroad for their summer sojourn, more patriotic (or economic) locals make their way northwards where four-star accommodation costs from just €55 a night, even in high season.</p>
<p>And there are further changes to be made. By holidaying in your home country, you avoid the hassle of being charged every time you make a withdrawal from an ATM or being overcharged by taxi drivers who ensure you’re treated to the scenic route at a considerable extra cost.  Package deals might look like a steal in the travel agent’s window, but prepare for the price to rise if you request any fancy extras, like, say, a direct flight or a room with air conditioning.</p>
<p>Besides, taking a two-week hiatus from your home city at the height of summer might mean that you miss out on some of the amazing festivals and events hosted all over Europe during the long summer evenings.  Residents of Barcelona who evacuate the city during the sultry summer months also forego the <a href="http://www.parcsijardins.cat/" class="liexternal">Música als Parcs</a>, a series of free alfresco jazz and classical concerts taking place in the city’s most tranquil parks, including the Parc Ciutadella and Gaudí’s iconic Park Güell.  Berliners who endure bleak winters only to miss the city burst into life during summer also miss out on innumerable summer-only events including the Carnival of Cultures, a riotous and colourful celebration of Berlin’s ethnic diversity. Lessening the need for music fans from Eastern Europe to head west for a festival fix, Hungary and Serbia now host <a href="http://www.sziget.hu/fesztival/?language=en" class="liexternal">Sziget</a> and the <a href="http://www.exitfest.org/" class="liexternal">Exit Festival</a> respectively so locals can stay close to home and let their favourite musicians do the travelling for once.</p>
<p>Better still, staying within the UK or continental Europe rather than in some far-flung rainforest region in South America means that you’ll always be able to get your hands on a cup of Tetley’s Tea/packet of Haribo /cola-flavoured Carambar (delete as applicable).  And, in Britain at least, the homegrown comfort derived from the perfect cup of tea is something that shouldn’t be underestimated. For holiday goers who want to ensure they keep their creature comforts to hand various sites now allow you to arrange house swaps with other travellers, but to truly reap the full benefit of a holiday at home there’s an even better alternative – take your weary self back to your mum’s, where home cooking and the perfect brew should be laid out for the duration of your stay. In these challenging times there’s little that’s as comforting as a temporary retreat back to childhood while your parents take care of the details, and with them undoubtedly flattered by you holidaying with them rather than jetting to some foreign clime you might even get your homegrown holiday on the house!</p>
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