Fox&Squirrel's Penelope Sacorafou

Penelope Sacorafou is one half of the talented young team behind Fox&Squirrel; a London based company which creates curated walks around the city. Rather than focusing on traditional tourist attractions and historic sites, Fox&Squirrel’s unique tours offer participants an authentic view of London, curated by creative professionals who love their city and are excited to share it with others. Guides include art experts, stylists, photographers and foodies, all brimming with local knowledge and fascinating tidbits that show a different side of the city and how diverse creative currents contribute to London’s evolution – on a daily basis.

Aside from heading up Fox&Squirrel, Penelope has many other strings to her bow, working on fashion communication campaigns, contributing to various art and fashion publications, and undertaking academic research on the effects of the Rich Mix arts venue on East London and its ethnic minorities. Plus she’s currently running in heels preparing for the Fox&Squirrel pop-up shop, a project in collaboration with Guts for Garters! We spoke to the entrepreneurial wunderkind to find out a little more about Fox&Squirrel’s fashion, vintage, art, architecture and food walks, and why she’s still every bit as in love with London.

Have you always wanted to be an entrepreneur?

To be honest it came into place rather organically. I graduated from King’s College with an MA in the arts at the peak of a recession. Every other young lady wanted to be involved in the arts, so in the midst of this rat race I had to distinguish myself from a very talented and highly-educated crowd. I set up a blog, Fox&Squirrel, which gave me a platform to write  about the arts while my great friend JoJo wrote about fashion. This immediately became a platform for us to showcase our knowledge and expertise. As our audience was mainly foreigners wanting to find out creative happenings in London, we eventually started to receive requests from our readers to not only inform them but to also offer them the experience. And, that is how Fox&Squirrel Walks came about, and I suppose how I ended up as an entrepreneur.

Why did you set up Fox&Squirrel?

Initially, Fox&Squirrel was a blog – a platform for creative exchange – through which I spoke to my compatriots in the Balkans about London. I wanted to tell them there was much more to the British capital than Oxford Circus and Piccadilly. At the same time, it offered me the opportunity to meet people in the creative industries. The blog eventually grew and became so popular our readers started to request that we guide them through London. I realised that a number of talented and highly educated people were in the same position, and so I set up the walks element. The mission was, and remains to showcase London’s creative make-up whether that’s the guides who are art curators, art historians or stylists, or the talent we feature on our itineraries.

What do the lifestyle walks involve?

We came up with lifestyle walks as an umbrella term for our walks and services that conveyed the message that our walks were centred around our client’s lifestyle and our walks were an experience that showcased the way London caters to every individual lifestyle. We also came to the realisation that our individual lifestyles dictate where and what we do in our city. Coming to terms with this we realised that our mobility is restricted by our lifestles.  So, our walks were also about getting out of those self- imposed territorial boundaries.

Why London?

Well, for one I live here so it naturally made sense. But, I also think that London is the perfect city to start our luxury walking company. Geographically, London is very flat, therefore walking is easy, it is large and diverse so many nooks and crannies to explore. It is constantly changing and evolving, which makes many people feel a bit lost and unable to keep up. It is the world’s cultural and creative hub but it is not accessible to all. Londoners and visitors are both fascinated by this – but need a service such as Fox&Squirrel to assist in experiencing these scenes.

What are the virtual walks?

Virtual walks are the main feature of our bi-weekly newsletter. We ask a London personality to suggest a walking route in an area in London, pinpointing their favourite bars, cafes, shops, and in general local independent businesses. Our mission is to support indies but to also get people out walking and discovering their city.

What kind of people come on the tours generally?

That is an interesting question. We attract quite a diverse demographic. Our public art walks that take place once a month on a Saturday afternoon attract anyone from young professionals to pensioners, both female and male. Our private fashion walks tend to attract more women, and we cater to clientele from teenagers to recently retired ladies. We also have had several walks for men, and though these are mainly booked by their female partners, our gentleman fashion walks have been great successes.

Participants on a London fashion walk...

How did you get to where you are today and would you do anything differently?

I have a good team of creative, dedicated and innovative individuals. Natasha Hoare- who heads the art walks- is a great team player. She loves the brand and the art walks so we are constantly talking about ways we can improve and other projects we can get involved in. Cassie Beadle and Rachel Chudley who head the vintage walks are an encyclopedia of vintage destinations and are constantly researching and sharing their knowledge.

And, finally Fox&Squirrel’s business developer Alexia Latham is so energetic and in love with Fox&Squirrel, I cannot think of a better person to spend my working days with steering Fox&Squirrel into new avenues. I think communication and a good team are essential for any start -up and I would advise anyone at the beginning of their project to seriously consider creating a team of people that share the enthusiasm before starting. I think that is what I would have done differently, I would not have started solo. It is too much to do and you need others to make sure you give yourself reality checks.

Who helped you along the way?

Everyone I mentioned above, but also my family. My father gave me the confidence to start off. He is an entrepreneur so he knows the highs and lows that come with starting your own business. He also gave me vital advice on company structures. While my mother has always been a source of comfort whenever I have had a tough day.

Who inspires you?

My grandfather. From a young age he told me to make sure I love my job as that is where I will spend most of my life. From my Greek side I stem from a long line of entrepreneurs who are self-made. All of them at some point in their lives have become refugees, losing their homes and left with nothing.  But, they all managed to make it for themselves with sheer determination, and great work ethics.

What do you think is the biggest problem in British society today and what is the most positive thing?

Implementing sterile regeneration programmes that as a result break-up  communities and drive the less fortunate out… London has thrived and developed because of its diversity and we need to make sure that it remains so. Generating regeneration programs that are based on shopping malls is destructive. Communities and areas need to be able to develop organically, in a bottom up way rather than a top down manner. The most positive thing is the diversity and the sensitivity towards achieving equality.

Do you feel British or European?

This is a difficult question. My father is Greek and my mother is English, while I grew up in Cyprus. European would be ideal as it could include all of those nationalities and cultural influences, however, with the current European crisis and particularly the financial turmoil in Greece I am feeling more and more upset with the European nationality. In London, this question is rather mundane. London is such a melting pot of nationalities it does not matter what one feels. I would like nationalities to devolve to the cities. I feel like a Londoner, (and that is not playing into  Ken Livingstone re-election campaign!)

Who are you listening to at the moment?

Radio 4…

What couldn’t you live without?

I am not sure actually. I could not function without my laptop but then sometimes I long for time away from it- so I suppose holidays!

Fox&Squirrel's monthly public art walks attract anyone and everyone; from young professionals to pensioners, both female and male

Dream purchase?

A house with a garden and wooden floor boards.

Favourite movie?

Labyrinth with David Bowie. I used to watch it all the time when I was a child, and to this day it still has the same effects on me as it had when I was 10.

Favourite European city and why?

London, is home so naturally I favour London. But, saying that my origins are in Athens, and with the current dire straits it is in I am morally obligated to promote Athenian beauty, life, and culture. It is the crossroads between the Middle East and Europe and as a result of that the culture is unique , diverse and lively. I would suggest everyone visits it. Plus a myriad of islands are a short boat ride away from Athens, and they are all unique.

How do you stay motivated?

When people like Alice Revel, editor of Running in Heels, shares my enthusiasm for Fox&Squirrel. When managing a start up its absolutely mandatory to feel encouragement by other entrepreneurs. (Ed: Thanks Penelope, back at you!)

Desert island book?

I have recently challenged myself to read every single classic. At the moment I am reading 1984, so if I was stranded on an island tomorrow that would be my book.

Favourite bar?

I have many- but I recently discovered a speakeasy in Old Street that is still a bit of a secret and I like that so won’t be revealing it  but instead prompting you to go walkies and try to find it.

Favourite London places?

I love food so it must be St John’s Spitalfields, and I love going to the movies so my favourite cinema is Screen on the Hill.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

In London, working for Fox&Squirrel.

What’s next for Fox & Squirrel?

You will have to follow us to find out. It is all go go go at the moment so many things are happening – most I cannot reveal.

Can you run in heels?

I can run in heels, I can even  play football in heels!

An Architecture & Food Walk with Fox & Squirrel and creative duo Art For Eating

Chic cocktails and an incredible view...

Just beyond the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, La Vue is a luxury cocktail bar situated atop the 4-star, 34-storey Concorde Lafayette hotel.  The name says it all; with one whole wall of the bar made up of floor-to-ceiling windows, La Vue offers a stunning panoramic view of the City of Lights. No need for artwork on the walls or fancy decoration, Paris is the main attraction. Facing the windows is a zinc-topped bar that runs the length of the room and seems to propose every spirit, liqueur and cordial known to man. Luminous stalactites hand from the ceiling, changing coulour from cosy red to cool blue and vivid violet slowly and almost imperceptibly. It’s all very lounge, and terribly chic.

Choose one of the low tables with slouchy swivel seats offering an intimate space for the most stunning view of the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Trimophe as well as the spider’s web of streets below. Since the installation of a million light bulbs on the 324-metre structure for the Millenium celebrations, the Eiffel Tower sparkles for the first ten minutes of every hour, and La Vue offers ringside seats to the show.

If you can tear your eyes from the view, the menu is definitely worth a look; Stephen Martin, who has been voted best mixologist in France, has created a cocktail list to suit even the most discerning palette. His special creations are divided into four groups: new takes on classics; elixirs for the ladies; concoctions for the dandys (Parisian men are all dandys); and a few new inventions of his own. The only-too-pleased-to-help staff will delight in explaining the exact balance of flavours in each glass and the relative merits of the Japanese shaking technique, the American method and simple stirring.

If you’re into pretty, fruit-based cocktails, the ladies’ menu is clearly the one to select. My Rive Gauche brought together white cranberry juice, Sauternes wine and vodka in a crisp and surprisingly citrus mélange, while my drinking partner tried a Parisienne that married silver tequila, amaretto and spiced liqueur. In the name of research, we also tried one of the more outrageous concoctions on the menu – a Pena Véra: a pint-sized glass of aloe vera juice, almond milk, coconut and fresh coriander. Unexpectedly refreshing, this “spa in a glass” used sharp redcurrants to bring out the flavour of the herb. For cocktail lovers bored of the usual mojitos and martinis, the menu is a breath of fresh air and can provide inspiration for new recipes that are certain to impress when entertaining at home.

Alcohol-free cocktails are also on the menu, as is a decent variety of excellent wines, all chosen by top sommelier Eric Bertaux with the same care and attention to detail as has been devoted to the cockatil creations. There’s also an impressive champagne list to choose from, along with a selection of spirits including organic vodka, aged cachaça and award-winning rums and tequilas.

Should you require a little more sustenance than liquid nourishment provides, chef Laurent Belijar and his team have put together an international assortment of finger foods. Here again, La Vue has gone for the “classics with a twist” theme: salmon and cream cheese bagels, tortilla wraps, sushi and foie gras. Perfect for sharing, each dish is elegantly presented and made with top-quality ingredients; as aperitif-style foods go, the selection on offer is pleasingly healthy.

La Vue is perfect for pre or postprandial drinks and nibbles on a special occasion, a late-night rendez-vous with a certain someone, or a ladies-only Sex and the City-style Friday night on the town. It’s achingly cool but unexpectedly welcoming and offers the last word in Parisian chic. Needless to say, there’s not a paper umbrella in sight.

For more information and to book. see La Vue’s website.

With one whole wall of the bar made up of floor-to-ceiling windows, La Vue offers a stunning panoramic view of the City of Lights...

The place to see - and be seen in Milan

After a tiring day of shopping and sightseeing in Italy’s fashion capital, there’s no better way to wind down and rest those weary feet than than with a very Milanese tradition; the aperitivo. And the recently relaunched Camparino is the place to relax with friends and sip a chilled glass of Campari (or three), in the fashionable surroundings of the gloriously opulent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

A stone’s throw from the Duomo, the bar was first opened in 1915, and is the historic home of the Campari brand. For almost a century, The Camparino has played host to any number of Milan’s movers and shakers; not surprisingly it’s a favourite of the fashion pack too – boutiques including Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton are to be found just around the corner. The outdoor terrace provides the perfect vantage point for observing the city’s smart set going about their business. Nowhere is is people-watching more pleasurable than in Milan; as you might expect, the Milanese are truly fashion conscious.

Inside, there’s a palpable buzz as chic, snappy bartenders in elegant white jackets and black bowties execute a snappy service, providing the well-heeled clientele with cocktails and coffees. Decorated with large mirrors and ornate mosaics, the interior exudes the artistic sophistication and sense of style that the Italians do so well. Let’s be honest; Italy isn’t really known for its efficiency, but here the traditional Campari and soda is served in a jiffy, thanks to a system which ensures a continuous flow of chilled soda water directly from The Camparino’s cellars. There’s also an expansive selection of cocktails on offer (from the traditional Negroni and Vodka Martini to sparkling fresh Bellinis or Rossinis) as well as a comprehensive wine list offering the finest vintages from across Italy.

The bar also serves breakfasts and light snacks, while upstairs the handsome restaurant offers a classic selection of Milanese cuisine. The Camparino’s proud owner, Orlando Chiari has been presiding over the bar for longer than many of have been eating hot dinners, so if anyone knows about Milan and the aperitivo, it’s him. At the bar’s relaunch, we quizzed him on three Milanese essentials; what to eat, what to see and – of course – the aperitivo.

Must-see sights in Milan?

The best idea is simply to walk around; not far from The Camparino, you have the Duomo, the Museo Del Novecento (Milan’s impressive collection of twentieth century art) and the Scala of course.

What does the aperitivo represent for you – and for Italians?

It’s a moment of conviviality; a occasion to meet with friends, enjoy each other’s company and catch up. The aperitivo is an important Italian tradition – we’re social beings!

The Camparino is renowned for pre-dinner drinks. What would you choose to dine on after the aperitif?

It would have to be one of the dishes Milan is best known for; perhaps risotto giallo (made with saffron), our homemade veal cutlet or perhaps osso buco.

For more information, see The Camparino’s website.

The ornate interior of The Camparino; the bar with its new sign, created by designer Ugo Nespolo; Campari and soda being served

A homely, rustic atmosphere at Pip's Dish

Pips Dish is a little bit of barnyard heaven, popped up in London’s Islington. Serving lovingly homemade food on trestle tables, with a BYO policy, this venue feels more like eating in someone’s rustic home than anything else. Housed in a disused barn (yes, there are disused barns in Islington!) the front section of Pip’s Dish is a verdant farm shop, run by Farm Direct, a local seasonal food delivery service. Piles of fresh onions, sturdy green kale, organic eggs and English fruit juices and cheeses greet you as you follow the trail of straw down the cobbled street off Upper Street.

Pip (also known as Philip Dundas) is one of those cornucopian-type hosts; the plate will always feel half full with him around. “This is a three course feast” he explains, smiling with genuine enthusiasm at his hungry guests perched on hay bales, “but I just cook from what I get from the farm shop. So you never know, there may be more; last night I did seven courses by mistake.”

We only had four courses in the end, but they were plentiful and delicious. A sprouted purple broccoli soup, garnished with infused oil, warmed us up as a starter that was followed by an impromptu walnut and apple salad. Main course was farm-reared pork roasted with fennel seeds and served with the most crackling of cracklings and rich potatoes and greens. Dessert was a classic bread and butter pudding, layered with marmalade and dosed with a good ladleful of fresh cream.

Pip has previously run a supper club in his home, and he now finds himself running this event until May 2012 with the view to perhaps opening something more permanent later. An entrepreneur who also manages a social project to train up disengaged, unemployed young people, Pip was a BBC producer before embarking on his culinary career. His recently published cookbook, Cooking Without Recipes, is a recipe book with no recipes at all; instead, Pip gives you the principles of cooking techniques and ideas of what to do with ingredients (“slightly browned in butter and then blended with lemon juice, fennel brings magic to any soup combination”), so that the home cook can experiment with confidence on their own.

As we sit drinking the last of our wine, a trio of fresh faced, bearded young men serenade us with acoustic guitar and violin; we wonder why all Sunday dinners aren’t like this when you eat out. “Some people don’t like the fact that you can’t choose what you eat from a menu,” – but we didn’t even notice the lack of menu! “It’s like being a guest; you just get what you’re given” says Pip. With that in mind, we’ll certainly be going back to get some more.

For more information, see the Pip’s Dish website. You can also follow on Twitter @pipsdish, or see the latest news on Facebook.

Pip’s Dish is open Friday and Saturday lunchtimes 12-3pm, with a policy of pay-what-you-think-it’s-worth. You can reserve a place at the regular Friday or Saturday night Supperclub or at Sunday Lunch with live music (3 courses, £25 BYOB). Pip says that if you want to have a party any other night of the week, he can usually work something out. Email philip@pipsdish.co.uk or call Pip on + 44 (0) 7764 336 220

Piles of vegetables, fruit juices and cheeses greet you as you follow the trail of straw down the cobbled street off Upper Street

The Jockey Cocktail, a 'Golden Age' tipple

Once the reserve of the cool and trendy, former celebrity hang-out the Met Bar, has shed its ‘in-crowd’ only policy and opened its doors to the general public, complete with a new look.

Gone with the paparazzi-pulling clientele is the deep red décor; in its place you’ll find a relaxed palette of sensual 1970′s brown and burnt orange leather banquettes and stools, along with wood panels, lava stone and glass. Pretty gold hexagonal nightlight holders twinkle from each table, casting a romantic glow; working with the discreet spot lighting to provide an immediate feeling of calm.

Quiet chatter, the click of the cocktail shaker working overtime behind the bar, and an eclectic mix of tunes provided the soundtrack to our Thursday evening visit. My friend and I took advantage of the empty raised booth area, slightly set apart from the rest of the bar – but still offering great people watching opportunities – and settled in for a couple of hours of food-accompanied imbibing.

One can order a cocktail in pretty much every bar, café and restaurant where alcohol is served nowadays, but they’re rarely worthy of the price tag that comes with shaking up a few ingredients and pouring them in to a pretty glass. Here, the cocktails go far beyond your traditional Cosmopolitans and Pina Coladas, the quality of ingredients and skill too, with an impressive selection split into four sections aimed at pleasing all palates: Adventurous, Golden Age, Signature, and Champagne. They’re at the treat end of the price scale, around £14 a pop, but with cocktails as good as this, I’d take quality over quantity any day.

Influenced by my penchant for bubbles, I ordered the 5 Star Julep, enticed by the winter warming addition of Maker’s Mark Bourbon, with fresh accents of mint – served in an elegant flute glass. My friend, an enthusiastic home mixologist (read: hard to please), supped happily on the Horner Swing; a combination of sweet damson jam, 20-year-old Ramos Pinto port and Monkey Shoulder whisky. Also highly recommended were the Green Park Frost (a floral and spicy mix boasting celery, basil and Plymouth Gin), the Market Tipple (with heather honey and English lavender) and the Rumba (fresh blueberries and rum, finished with Louis Roederer Champagne). If it weren’t for the risk of getting lost on the way home, there were plenty of other exciting sounding concoctions we would’ve gladly sampled. Treats for another time.

An evening menu of small plates (a full à la carte is served at lunch), echoes the very British elements used in the cocktails, with a seasonal selection priced around the £5 to £12 mark. We accompanied our tipples with  the potted shrimps (a clamp jar packed to the brim with salty, buttery prawns with crisp hints of orange and fennel, and served with a delicious chervil-filled dainty mini batch loaf), creamy Kedgeree fish cakes, tender bites of slow-roasted Norfolk lamb, and the pièce de resistance of the spread: soft, fresh, hunks of home-cured Scottish salmon. The perfect amount to fill us up, without finishing us off.

The Met Bar’s home in The Metropolitan Hotel on Old Park Lane is a blissfully quiet area compared to the relentless hoards of shoppers on nearby Oxford Street, making it a perfect respite to refuel and relax after a day’s retail therapy or an after work catch-up haunt with friends.

For more information, see the Met Bar’s website.

A relaxed interior with brown and burnt orange leather banquettes and stools, along with wood panels, lava stone and glass...

Jazz soirées at Paris' Cercle Suédois...

It’s coming up to four years that I’ve had the privilege of calling Paris my home. Being a naturally curious adventuring type, as well as a journalist for RIH, I can confidently say that I’ve run in heels around every one of Paris’ 20 arrondissements, and have managed to discover many a treasure along the way. You’ll be hard pushed to find most of the places below in your typical Parisian guidebook, and all the better, because we don’t want these places getting too popular! So, just between you and me, here’s my Secret Paris…

Cercle Suédois

You could walk past the ‘Cercle Suédois’ (Swedish Circle) a thousand times and not notice it’s there. It is tucked away in a residential building, on a street renowned for its glamourous hotels (Crillon, Meurice) and other noble former residences (Louvre…) – the Rue de Rivoli.

On Wednesday night you can be the guests of the Swedes’ Jazz night. At number 242 you buzz, go up to the second floor and knock at the second door on your right. For just 10€, you get entry to an intimate jazz concert as well as a drink. Swedish tipples and nibbles are all available for reasonable prices. It is perfectly underpopulated – think 40 guests maximum, which means you’re almost always guaranteed a space on the balcony which overlooks the Tuileries Gardens, and gives you access to the room where Alfred Nobel conceived his prize. His desk remains in the very same spot. If you fancy having your own time-travelling Midnight-in-Paris experience, this would be a great place to start. 242 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1er.

Le Limonaire

Le Limonaire is one of my favourite spots in Paris. Its central location means it’s convenient for meeting friends from any corner of Paris. There are several metros within walking distance, but you have to know your route around the alleys of the “Grands Boulevards’ to stumble across this gem. It’s basically a cabaret restaurant, which continues a great Parisian tradition which has had the soul ripped out of it at some other more well-known cabarets… You arrive at around 8pm, eat a traditional French meal at an excellent price, and from 10pm onwards you will be impeccably entertained in a musical fashion. The price? Whatever you choose – make your contribution into the hat which is passed around at the end of the night. You can also just come for drinks, and a lovely quiet terrace outside is great for smoking a Gitane or two, or just absorbing the fresh air. I’ve never had a bad night here. Cité Bergère – Paris 2eme.

Terrace of the Great Paris Mosque

The Grande Mosquée de Paris occupies an impressive position in Paris’ left bank, a short walk from the Latin Quarter in an area I much prefer for its lack of bustling. It is the largest mosque in France and the third largest in Europe. As well as being a place of worship with a stunning garden, and housing an authentic hammam (I’ve left there many a time which skin softer than I ever thought possible), it also boasts an exquisite terrace which is absolutely perfect for enjoying an oriental pastry, mint tea and shisha (shisha only after 4pm) next to the open aviary and under various vines. A perfect patch of paradise in Paris. 9 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire – Paris 5eme.

La Pagode

La Pagode is easily one of the world’s loveliest cinemas, with one of the most heartbreaking tales at its origin. It is also one of the rare cinemas where you know you can just drop in and are guaranteed to see something amazing – the programme is always excellent.

Monsieur Morin – the founder of Paris institution the Bon Marché department store – commissioned La Pagode – a replica of a Japanese Pagoda – as a gift for his wife in 1886. However could one repay such a gift, you might ask? Well, Madame Morin choose to do it by skipping off with her husband’s business partner. Monsieur Morin’s loss became our gain in time – after a short life as a reception hall, it became a cinema in 1931. It has since become a key player in France’s cinematic landscape, hosting the premiere of Jean Cocteau’s Testament d’Orphée, as well as being a key champion of the Nouvelle Vague in the 60s, bringing the works of Truffaut, Rohmer, Rozier and others to the attention of the public. After escaping demolition in the 1970s (I can’t bear to imagine it), it remains a champion of quality independent cinema today.

An exquisite hidden Japanese cinema

It’s worth ringing to see if your chosen film is playing in the impressive ‘Salle Japonaise’ before you set off (there is another smaller screen) as you may never watch a film in a more exquisite room than this one. A tea beforehand in the surrounding Japanese garden is also highly recommended. 57Bis Rue Babylone – Paris 7eme.

Jardin Francs-Bourgeois-Rosiers

The Marais is one of the liveliest areas in Paris, not least on a Sunday when the rest of the city is closed up (the Marais is the Jewish quarter and so their day of rest is Saturday). I’ve spent countless weekends here, browsing the excellent thrift stores, eating Falafel and cheesecake and drooling over the apartments, but it was only recently that I discovered the jardin ‘Francs-Bourgeois-Rosiers’. Accessible through former Hotel Particulier, the Hotel de Coulanges on the Rue Francs-Bourgeois (which now houses the Maison de l’Europe), this little ‘espace vert’ has to be one of the best-kept secrets in the Marais. Now is the time to visit it – plans are underway to merge it with two other nearby gardens, which will create something very special, but undoubtedly more popular… So get your falafel and cheesecake to go and bring them here. ASAP. 33-35 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois – Paris 4eme.

La petite cuisine à Paris

If you’re planning ahead, a much sought-after reservation at culinary creative Rachel Khoo’s Petite Cuisine is an excellent way to spend a lunchtime. As well as enjoying some fabulous dishes you can have a good natter with a Brit who has made Paris her home. La Petite Cuisine has been thoroughly tried and tested by RIH already and you can read all about it here.

Ballon de Paris

So your obvious options for getting a great view of Paris are the following: Eiffel Tower, Montparnasse Tower and Sacré Coeur. All worthy edifices, but all a little too obvious, and dare I say it, ‘touristy’. But how about being able to see all these buildings from above, in a way that you will never find in the guide books? You need to try the Paris hot air balloon. The reason it’s not in the guide books is because it is subject to the weather (hence it can’t be promoted to tourists), but all you need to do is check on their website before you set off and see whether the balloon is running. When you get there, the queue is modest (virtually non-existent mid-week). You go up in the balloon (tethered to the ground) in a group of around 10, for around 15-20 minutes at a time, to take in a panorama of Paris as far as the eye can see. Parc Andre Citroen – Paris 15eme.

And finally, a few more secrets which I’ll let you discover on your own..

● Histoire de Paris and Curiocites will both teach you fascinating tales about Paris that go far off the tourist track (French speakers only).

● Billet Reduc is bursting with discounted (and often free) tickets to every type of show imaginable in Paris (30-year olds and under can find more places at one of the Kiosque des jeunes);

● You could save yourself a small fortune in museum and gallery tickets if you book to come on the first Sunday of the month, when all of these treasures offer free entry (the earlier you go, the shorter the queues!).

● The Rue Cler is a fabulous market street near (but not too close) to the Eiffel Tower which is open on Sundays until lunchtime, and is perfect for stocking up on cheese and other goodies to take home.

A secret garden within the lively heart of the Marais quartier: the beautifully tranquil Jardin Francs-Bourgeois-Rosiers...

The Halkin's selection of divine decadance

Come 4pm on any given day, London’s most exclusive hotels are besieged by eager customers seeking to partake in the ultimate British pastime: high tea. Tiered silver stands are crammed full of delectable delights – from neatly cut cucumber sandwiches to fluffy scones and tiny fruit tarts – to be ravished and digested with an elegant cup of Earl Grey. Although it is true that each of the top hotels has its own take on the classic teatime fare, perhaps none are quite so daring as The Halkin, whose newly launched Couture Chocolate Afternoon Tea sees the boutique five-star entering unchartered territory.

“We knew we wanted to create an afternoon tea that was genuinely different. When we came across William we thought he was the perfect man to work with on the project,” the hotel’s marketing manager, Chris Orlikowski told RIH at the tea’s unveiling last week. The William he speaks of is William Curley, the award-winning chocolatier extraordinaire. Highly respected in the food world for his interesting take on the ultimate gourmet indulgence, the British chef and his Japanese pâtissier wife, Suzue, routinely introduce interesting ingredients or elements from other cultures to their handmade chocolates, pâtisseries and desserts.

On this occasion, given a free reign by the hotel, Curley has created a masterwork of divine decadence. Over three tiers, one finds a combination of heavenly flavours and, with the exception of a lower tier of mini scones, jam and cream, they all have a chocolate twist.

The chocolate macaroon is the most recognisable item on the tray; with a perfect, chewy texture it is as good as anything you’ll find on the Champs-Elysées. It sits on the top tier beside a chocolate financier with a passion fruit curd – the sharpness of the fruity curd takes the edge off the sweetness of the moist chocolate sponge and together they make for a surprisingly refreshing combination. On the middle tier there awaits an even more mouth-watering selection: a Black Forest dome (kirsch soaked sponge and cherry compote encased in a dark and white chocolate mousse), an orange and chocolate sacher and, this journalist’s personal favourite, a hazelnut tart filled with sea salt caramel, raspberry dacquoise and compote topped with a chocolate cremeaux and finished off with fresh raspberries. Such sweet, salty deliciousness is almost unimaginable.

Clearly each small edible item has been created and crafted with love. Curley’s team genuinely care about their cakes and source the very finest ingredients for them. One can’t help feeling sorry for the perfectly lovely triangle sandwiches that, coming on a separate plate, are something of a sideshow; next to the main act, the poor things don’t stand a chance. Washed down with your choice from a wide selection of teas, and a glass of champagne if you fancy going the extra mile, it makes for a wholly satisfying teatime experience. This is especially so sitting in The Halkin’s ‘culture lounge’, which has a pleasant, relaxed informality not often found at more traditional five-stars. You can even browse through the selection of Assouline coffee table books on display (and that can be purchased should you so desire).

Obviously, this is one to be avoided if you are a) on a (fun free) diet b) have a cocoa bean allergy. However, if neither applies then this is a dining experience to relish. Savour each delicious morsel of cake and roll out of the front door into the cold air radiating internally with chocolaty goodness.

The Couture Chocolate Afternoon Tea at The Halkin costs £37.50 or £47.50 with a glass of champagne. For more information, see The Halkin’s website.

William’s first book, Couture Chocolate, in which he reveals some of the secrets and methods behind his award-winning creations, is available to buy now.

William Curley introduces his first book…

Sophisticated deco at The Llawnroc

Notice something funny about The Llawnroc’s name? It’s ‘Cornwall,’ spelled backwards. After two nights here, I can’t think of anything more apt – Gorran Haven’s newest boutique hotel is writ through with Cornish charm.

Set a few streets back from the beach, the Llawroc flies both the Union Jack and Saint Piran’s Flag outside – and you see this mix of local and national sensibilities carried on within. Design is comfy but slick, with none of the rusticity out-of-towners might have come to expect of a Cornish getaway; while its locally-sourced restaurant menu is trend-conscious yet unpretentious. Service strikes that golden balance between smart, direct and utterly friendly. The ultimate seal of approval? People who live here like and use the Llawnroc just as much as visitors – the bar and restaurant were packed every night I was here.

Despite being fancier than your average seaside hotel, The Llawnroc has simple pleasures at its heart. Gorgeous surroundings, food and atmosphere make you feel blessed enough; a bit of glam styling is simply the icing on the cake.

The Rooms

We arrive on a sunny Friday afternoon and it’s straight upstairs for a nosy at our room. “Big views” is the phrase that springs to mind, with a floor-to-ceiling window spread right across one wall to take in a melée of sky, sea, cliffs rising beyond village rooftops and – immediately below – the drinks terrace. I make a mental note to remember this while getting changed. You can get the fresh-air-included version of this view in other rooms, which have balconies, while a suite at the top has wrap-around vistas.

The next big wow is the bed – it’s huge, with a high and blingy silver leather headboard, purple and silver velvet cushions and double-sized pillows (with a pillow menu to peruse if these don’t fit the bill). Indeed, the Llawnroc’s design has a dramatic slant throughout – the first thing you clap eyes on in the lobby is a huge, modern-gothic chandelier, and there are striped carpets and high-backed Alice in Wonderland-evoking armchairs in the hall downstairs.

A flat screen TV, DVD player, PlayStation III, free Wi-Fi and iPod dock are very welcome in-room goodies, but it’s the more personal and location-specific touches that do it for me: there’s seaweed-based Voya shampoo, conditioner and moisturiser in the bathroom, and a selection of herbal blends to choose from on the tea tray.

Rooms are spacious, stylish and comfortable enough to hole up in all day (the largest ones have lounge areas). If you’re planning days filled with beach-trips and cliff-top walks, your room’s a lovely, luxurious treat to get back to afterwards.

Gwineas Bar

After the room inspection, it’s down to the Gwineas Bar and Bistro for lunch and a drink. This is the heart and hub of the hotel: everything goes, from daytime meals and paper-reading to evening meet-ups and nightcaps.

Lunch dishes are of the hearty, large-portioned variety, with daily specials chalked up on a board in the bar. I have pork, apple puree, mash and greens from a menu heaving with local produce (half-pints of prawns, St Austell Bay mussels), and my partner goes for the bar’s classic pub-grub burger and chips (huge, and excellently done, he says.)

Step onto on the terrace afterwards for sweeping views of the sky blending into the sea’s horizon. In summer, this place becomes a full-on outdoor lounge with settees under gazebos and canopied pods large enough for two. In nippier weather, though, you’re happy to cosy up inside – and Gwineas accommodates for this with a lip-smacking Cornish cream tea. Local Tregothnan tea, clotted cream, freshly-baked scones and jam are served in the orangery from 3-5pm daily… you could definitely get used to this kind of eating.

Fine dining at Gorrans restaurant

Gorrans Restaurant

Come evening, you’ll find a sleeker translation of the hotel’s ‘local, ethically-sourced’ food mantra at fine dining restaurant Gorrans. Rounds of homemade bread and Cornish cheeses hit the spot and, naturally, seafood has a strong presence: choose a crab salad starter or go for a wild sea bass main with samphire, fennel, tomato vinaigrette and steamed mussels. If your tend more to dry land, Autumn’s ‘Best of British’ menu offers roast pigeon breast with polenta, spinach and girolles, as well as lamb fillet from nearby Lobbs Farm with confit garlic, smoked creamed potatoes and purple kale.

Gastropubs with roaring fires and beamed ceilings are ten-a-penny round here, so it’s great to see Gorrans throw something modern and shiny-surfaced into the mix. On the Saturday night we ate, the place was full and reviews so far have been glowing – a top spot on Cornwall’s foodie map surely awaits.

Gorran Haven

Between lounging around and stuffing yourself, there’s still plenty of time to explore Gorran Haven and its coastline. And haven really is the operative word: this tiny fishing village is all steep, winding streets and whitewashed cottages, with two crescents of sandy beach and an excellent chip shop to its name. To get out, take a bracing and beautiful cliff-side walk east to the next village along (Portmellon), or visit the Eden Project or the Lost Gardens of Heligan in St. Austell – both a 30-minute drive away.

Would you believe it, the sun was still shining on Sunday morning we left; relaxed, refreshed and a few pounds heavier. If you’re looking for a proper seaside escape with a dollop of luxury thrown in, the Llawnroc should be just your cup of (Cornish cream) tea.

For more info, see the Llawnroc’s website; rooms start at £84prpn for a double. The nearest train station is St. Austell, travel from London Paddington with First Great Western.

The tiny Cornish fishing village of Gorran Haven is all steep, winding streets, sandy beaches and whitewashed cottages...

The sun-soaked grounds of the Masseria

Think picture postcard Italy and you will probably hit upon an image much like Puglia’s Masseria San Domenico. With its whitewashed walls, sun-soaked olive groves, golf course and private beach by the Adriatic coast, it’s certainly easy on the eye. In fact the Puglia region in general, nestled in the ‘heel’ of Italy’s south easternmost coast, is fast becoming a magnet for holidaymakers who are drawn to its rustic charm and mouth-watering seafood.

I’m here in Puglia to sample this slice of Italian luxury. A five-star boutique hotel, the Masseria has been voted one of the best spa destinations in the country and is part of the prestigious Leading Spa Hotels of the World collection, an accolade richly deserved for pioneering thalassotherapy in southern Italy. I’m eager to dip my toes into the Masseria’s concept of seawater beauty; from relaxing hydrobaths to invigorating Vichy showers and deeply restful waterbeds, I’m told every trickle of water is exploited.

Made with Amore

On my arrival, it’s clear that the Masseria, a 47-room converted 14th century watchtower, used by the Knights of Malta to guard against Saracen attacks, doesn’t skimp on opulence. Accessible only via a private gated road, the hotel stands within 60 hectares of ancient olive trees and citrus orchards – a scent that delicately dances around the property. Inside, my suite is generous to say the least, filled with colourful and intricate rugs and bedding unique to the region, plush dark furniture expertly carved, and state-of-the-art TV and DVD to boot. It seems the hotel doesn’t do things by halves. This is also true of the spa. Perfectly situated next to the sea, the wellbeing offering has taken on the true tenants of thalassotherapy and executed it with aplomb.

A Sea of Beauty

Growing in popularity across Europe, thalasso – a philosophy of harnessing fresh seawater and its unique properties to enhance our health and beauty – has found a soaring fanbase at the Masseria, and Italy overall. Since it’s only 800 metres from the sea, the Masseria pumps fresh seawater into the spa’s treatment rooms and pools through its own bore. The water, it is believed, contains immeasurable nutrients and trace elements of magnesium, potassium, calcium, sodium and iodine which are absorbed through the skin. It’s certainly a spa service that is taken seriously for its health benefits, and it’s with great care that they introduce and treat guests to the thalasso therapies. Before I step into the 22-room spa, an initial consultation is performed in order to receive the right services from a choice of facials, baths, massages and wraps, to delicious and nutritious meals. Forget ‘one-size-fits-all’, everything here is made-to-measure.

With the consultation out of the way, it’s time to de-robe. I’m given a trio of Thalgo treatments: exfoliation, body wrap and massage. Each 45-minute therapy incorporates fresh seawater that’s doused over me to cleanse or invigorate, alongside so-called ‘miracle’ muds from the sea which are slathered on to smooth even the most parched skin. As one of the leading names in thalassotherapy, I know I’m in expert hands with Thalgo and they don’t disappoint. I’m left supple and serene – albeit smelling of the sea!

 Local Appeal

Aside from the thalasso section, the two-storey spa also plumps for authenticity from outside of Europe, with Indian-style ayurveda including shirodhara, and Thai massages on tap. I’m also introduced to its olive oil skincare range, containing moisturisers and masks, which are crafted with the hotel’s very own olive crop. It’s evident the Masseria is keen to promote Puglia’s distinctive local flavour – something that’s lapped up by the tourists who come via two nearby airports, Brindisi and Bari.

Judging by Puglia’s most well-known fans, it’s set to get even more popular. This European destination has romanced the likes of Dame Helen Mirren, Francis Ford Coppola and even Mikhail Gorbachev, who’ve embraced the slow local life. Boasting more than 800km of coastline on the Adriatic and Ionian, Puglia also lays claim to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and is producer of 40% of the country’s olive oil and 17% of Italian wine. The Masseria has capitalised on the hike in interest by delivering a first class hotel and spa experience – one that leaves me saying si to more spa breaks.

From its azure waters to the rejuvenating spa, the Masseria San Domenico hotel offers a generous slice of five-star Italian luxury

Tayyabs: a haven for real curry fans...

It’s rare that a Londoner will share all of their ‘don’t tell anyone’ spots in the city, so you can feel particularly privileged that RIH writer Brogan Driscoll has opened her Little Black Book to reveal some of her favourite secret places in London. Read on for traditional pubs with a twist, where to get a coffee fix and the best art house cinema for true cinephiles…

Tayyabs

Wander slightly off the Bhangra beaten track, about five minutes from Aldgate East tube, and you’ll probably find queues running out the door at Tayyabs. If you haven’t booked, you could wait up to 40 minutes as the queue snakes around the restaurant and past the takeaway counter. But, fear not, you can have a sneaky samosa if you’re particularly ravenous. Far from finding this kind of business off-putting, I find it extremely reassuring. It’s busy for one reason, and a very good reason at that: it’s food. It’s famous for the marinated lamb chops, fluffy bread and earthy dahl dishes. I rather like the aubergine dishes and lamb karahi too.

The Curzon Renoir

A Mecca for true cinephiles. Originally bought by Artificial Eye in the mid 80s, the Renoir shows art house films as they are released ad specialises in foreign language films. It retains a certain individuality that the cinematic giants Cineworld and Vue candidly lack. The Renoir is in the trendy Russell Square. There are so many frenchies that if you close your eyes, mainly so you don’t see the Nandos & Spud U Likes that litter Brunswick Square, you could almost be à Paris. Je rêve.

National Portrait Gallery

The National Portrait Galley is something of a safe haven. Full of familiar faces and sheltered from its overbearing, overcrowded and overrated neighbours: The National Gallery and Trafalgar Square. It hosts the national BP Portrait of the Year Awards that sees a collection of some of the most amazingly intricate portraiture. The venue also holds great one-off events. Recently I went to a talk by the guardian’s Robert Ogden on photojournalism and their eyewitness series.

Algerian Coffee Shop

There is something exceptionally charming about this traditional Algerian Coffee Shop. Maybe it’s the dark wood, over the counter service and white pharmacist coats that make the place seem like an old apothecary; maybe it’s the huge selection of over 80 varieties of coffee bean and the coffee connoiseurs who match your individual taste with the coffee bean of your dreams; or maybe it’s just that espressos are only a pound! Whatever it is its slap bang in the heart of London, so you’ve no excuse not to go.

The Pineapple

A mere stone’s throw away from the hustle and bustle of Kentish Town High Road and you’ll find yourself on the doorstep of one of my favourite pubs in London. Set among a row of terrace houses, its location is very intimate. Sitting in the conservatory or spacious beer garden you feel more like your sitting in a friend’s garden than a pub. The traditional pub furniture and the clinking of glasses are set against deliciously cheap served from the Thai menu. This seems to be quite the fashion in London pubs nowadays. As a big Thai food fan, I welcome this trend with open arms.

Hampstead Heath

Green spaces, London is full of them. It should make it more difficult to pick a favourite I guess, but you can’t compete with Hampstead Heath. I love it mainly because of its sheer size, you can literally get lost there for hours. It’s perfect for picnics and bike rides. Although with all those hills cycling round it is pain in the arse (literally)! There is plenty of opportunity to test the water and go swimming in the open air lakes.

You can't compete with the open space of Hampstead Heath; with its sheer size, you can literally get lost there for hours.