The Beatles at Hamburg's Top Ten Club

Thirty-something Stefanie Hempel is obsessed with men in their 60s and 70s and she wants everyone to know about it. We’ve joined her for a tour along Hamburg’s notorious Reeperbahn and amidst the glare of neon-fronted sex shops and the cat calls of nearby prostitutes it’s easy to accept as harmless her own particular predilection. The love affair isn’t monogamous though – people throughout the city have had an enduring relationship with the men who would become known globally as The Beatles and this year is something of a golden anniversary for the city.

On August 17 1960 the Liverpool group performed for the first time in Hamburg, in the now-defunct club Indra, and so began a two-year love affair with the city that saw them perform there a staggering 281 times. A musician and Hamburg resident herself, Stefanie’s adulation for the group is deep-rooted. “I heard their music for the first time when I was nine years old and it was a turning point in my life… From that point on I didn’t think about anything else but music.”

Joining other Beatles obsessives, tourists and Hamburg locals our tour kicks off by one of the rather insalubrious bars that unravel from the Reeperbahn where Stefanie shoots out a few facts before whipping out a ukulele and bursting into the first of many Beatles songs. And suddenly we’re reminded why the Beatles are still so popular. Without realising we even knew the words we’re all suddenly singing along to Help on the middle of the street, as drunks stagger past and the bars and clubs and strip joints open their doors for another night’s raucous entertainment. It’s a reminder that, in some ways, this part of Hamburg has changed little since the Beatles lived here. Back then, the port deposited a steady stream of sailors at the city and an industry of hard-living wayfarers was on hand to service their needs.

Stefanie tells us that the teenagers from Liverpool weren’t fully prepared for their new surroundings. Gigs in Liverpool finished early but in Hamburg the band was often expected to play from 7pm to 7am, at one period even playing 98 concerts in a row at the city’s Top Ten Club. Without enough songs in their repertoire they would string out the same tracks over and over, repeating the chorus and chords so that what was a three-minute track would instead last 15, 20, 30 minutes. Youthful enthusiasm and a growing dependence on drugs saw them through it but John Lennon later reflected that this time was fundamental in their development as a band “Every song lasted 20 minutes and had 20 solos in it. That’s what improved the playing. There was nobody to copy from. We played what we liked best and the Germans liked it as long as it was loud.”

Ready for a song? Beatles Platz today

But of course they developed in other ways too. As Stefanie guides us through the city’s red-light district she recounts how their burgeoning success at the start of the swinging sixties saw them become increasingly well-received by locals. It was quite obvious exactly what Lennon really meant when he commented “I was born in Liverpool. But I grew up in Hamburg”; Paul McCartney, meanwhile, referred to Hamburg as “a sex shock”. Another lasting impression the city made was to their appearance. Before their arrival in Hamburg the teenagers modelled their appearance on Elvis Presley and the rockers of the ‘50s. In Hamburg they copied the local look and ended up with the mop-top haircut that would become a defining style of the following decade.

As the tour draws to a close Stefanie guides us to the city’s ‘Beatles Square’, overlooking the neon blast of bars and clubs from the adjacent Grosse Freiheit (Great Freedom) street, and leads a rendition of Come Together. A crowd of American tourists joins in, a Chinese tour group stops to take photos and we can’t help but marvel at how these old guys can still drive the crowds wild.

Stefanie Hempel’s tour takes place on Saturdays from 7pm, and runs until October. It is generally held in German but can also be conducted in English. Other Beatles tours and activities take place throughout the year. Visit Hamburg Tourism for more information.

Germany’s national airline, Lufthansa offers 562 direct European flights to Hamburg a week. Return fares from within Europe cost from €99, including all taxes, charges and baggage allowance.

Cocktails and all sorts of delights on offer...

Missing the good old days when all you had to care about was whether you had brought enough lollies to last you a whole school day? When your biggest fear, well if you were a French primary school pupil anyway, was to be sent to a corner of the classroom (‘au coin’) in shame and much to the enjoyment of the rest of the class? If you do, this tiny, cosy and extremely friendly bar situated in the centre of Paris’s trendy Saint-Germain district , named after France’s most disgraceful school achievement –getting a ‘zero de conduite’ or a bad behaviour report—is for you.

Primary school is the theme (even pre-school some might argue) and letting loose your inner child is the point of the experience. Everything you cherished about this time will be served, shown or ‘sung’ to you in one way or another. Intrigued? Let me explain. First of all, the cocktails are served exclusively in baby bottles. It is as hilarious as it sounds, but you will probably find it quite laborious. Babies might find it simple but this easy as pie concept clearly loses its effortlessness past a certain age. You will get to keep your bottle, however, so you can give it a go at home and practice at your pace. Haribos are also available to order.

You might be a paying customer but this does not mean that things should come easily to you. Whatever you want in  Zero de Conduite needs to be deserved and hard-earned. Take the cocktails for instance. Before you are even given the privilege of struggling with the suction part of baby bottle drinking, you are handed a long menu (around 40 drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic) containing cocktails each named after one of your favourite childhood characters. These range from the Pink Panther and Dragon Ball Z to Babar and Popeye. Along with the menu comes a small whiteboard on which you are now asked to draw the character your chosen cocktail is named after.

Beware however; if the waiter cannot guess what or who your drawing represents you will end up with whatever he thinks your order might be. It sounds easy enough but wait until you read the menu and discover at least three different characters of  canine description. Luckily for you all of the cocktails are delicious and the Snoopy is as tasty as (if not tastier than) the Scooby-Doo (read Scoubidoo in French) or the Dogmatix (or Idefix in Moliere’s tongue). Regardless of the comprehensibility of your work of art, it is the bar’s policy to reward its customers. Each table is eventually offered a choice of four board games to play while enjoying cocktails: Scrabble, Trivial Pursuit, Pictionary and Jungle Speed—the latter being a fairly violent game for people in a drunken state, I would really only recommend it for those of the sturdiest disposition.

The best time to book (it is a very small pub and booking is essential) is Friday or Saturday Night where at around 10.30pm the bar owner or one of his employees (ahem), pardon me, ‘teaching staff’ will challenge the whole ‘classroom’ to an hour-long game of Zero de Conduite’s custom-made Trivial Pursuit. The questions range from children’s TV to school topics to modern American series.

Fun and games at the Zéro de Conduite

The main rule: do not behave like a teacher’s pet. Dare to raise your hand to answer too eagerly or audibly gasp to attract the teacher’s attention and you will be sent ‘au coin’ for as long as he sees fit or might even be asked to kiss another customer as punishment. Challenge winners will be entitled to free shots. However, in the spirit of the place, the most prized rewards are, of course, Chupa Chups lollipops. As part of the game, you might be asked to sing an old cartoon theme tune, to hum a nursery rhyme with your mouth full of sweets or even to dance on a table.

You enter the bar at your own risk. Shouting features heavily in the ‘teaching’ process and you will probably get a good verbal thrashing for answering a question wrong or generally looking like the much dreaded school know-it-all.

It is a well rounded experience. Everything you both loved and dreaded the most about the education system is presented to you for a few hours and, of course, what would such an experience be without slightly masochistic tasks and humiliating punishments (all in good humour of course). ‘Insane’ is the best way to describe a bar which won’t leave anyone indifferent. My advice: go!

More information about the bar is available on the Zéro de Conduite website.

Zéro de Conduite

14 rue Jacob

Paris

75006

The lantern-lit interior of The Drunken Monkey

The Drunken Monkey is a vibrant bar and restaurant serving cocktails and dim sum in London’s East End. Chef Wai Lan introduced a Chinese roasting oven to the kitchen after his return from China last year, which means The Drunken Monkey is one of the few places you can enjoy traditionally roasted pork and duck outside of Chinatown. The staff is friendly yet efficient too, as they serve food and drink quickly no matter how busy it gets – and it does get busy.

Straddled between Shoreditch and the City, the venue is one of the few in the area that attracts moneyed businessmen and indebted creatives in equal measure; no matter what night you enter the bar bustles. In fact, a current midweek draw is the kung-fu film night that takes place every second Wednesday, whereby 1970s kung fu films both classic and kitsch are shown under the muted glare of the bar’s red Chinese lanterns.

We missed that week’s showing unfortunately so instead made our way past the main body of the bar and went instead to the slightly raised back section, where smaller groups cluster at dining tables shrouded by wooden panelling and preoccupy themselves with The Drunken Monkey’s permanent attraction: its food.

Better for groups than couples, diners can share from a selection of noodle or rice dishes, or smaller dim sum selections. The menu helpfully tells you how many portions are included in each dim sum dish, so you don’t find yourself squabbling over the last steamed dumpling. Individual plates start from £5.50, for the popular Special Drunken Rice with prawns and pork or the Special Drunken Noodles with chicken and prawns – although despite the suggestive names both are prudently made without alcohol.

Tofu, mushroom, and lettuce parcels  are a fun, hands-on starter; you create the parcel yourself by wrapping crunchy leaves of iceberg lettuce around the tofu. The glass noodles, water chestnut, soy sauce, tofu and oyster mushroom filling is served slightly warm, which contrasts with the cool crispiness of the fresh lettuce. Beef satay sticks have a slightly greasy peanut sauce, but the beef chunks are tender with a crisp skin. A simple dish of Chinese broccoli  is drizzled in garlic and sesame oil dressing and steamed so the base of the leaf is crunchy, whilst the tip remains a soft, dark green. Crispy aromatic duck is also a winner; a generous portion of meat and enough soft, floury pancakes to make you eat more than you should.

Peking Potstickers  are dim sum’s comfort food. The shell is sticky and glutinous, but in this instance the pork filling didn’t have much flavour and the fish sauce was overly spicy. Barbecued roast pork buns are best eaten all in one go, so you enjoy the savoury filling and sweet, almost marshmallow-like dough at the same time.

Just as much a draw as the food are the cocktails, all fresh and full-bodied – read strong – concoctions decorated exquisitely with foliage and fruit. The Monkey Mango Julep is a tall cocktail of Buffalo Bourbon, mangoes and ginger beer, served with a sprig of fresh mint. Simian Features is topped with fresh basil to offset the aged El Dorado rum, pineapple, passion fruit and soda base. Swedish Rekorderlig cider is a perfect summertime tipple that comes in mixed berry, pear or apple and is dangerously easy to drink – not that that’s a bad thing necessarily but overindulge in the bar’s heady mix of potent cocktails and fresh cider and the next day’s hangover should remind you why they named it The Drunken Monkey…

For more information and bookings, see The Drunken Monkey’s website.

Shiatsu massage - Yasuragi Hasseludden

According to my partner, this article could consist of one word: ‘Zzz’.  Joking aside, if relaxation is what you seek, this luxury Japanese-inspired spa hotel provides it with a capital ‘R’.

Yasuragi Hasseludden is marketed as a little piece of Japan; an escape from the daily grind where you leave the outside world at the door.  Indeed, Yasuragi is an oriental paradise, approximately 20 minutes (a bus ride with a change) from Slussen, southern Stockholm.  The spa’s branding is built on the Japanese expression for ‘inner peace’ – and this is the concept that entices guests away from their hectic everyday.  It doesn’t hurt to have some concrete authenticity to reinforce the spa’s ‘take it easy’ philosophy.  On checking in, guests find their own yukatas (traditional Japanese cotton robes), to be worn throughout their stay, and kept as a memento.

The spa offers various packages ranging from day passes to overnight stays.  The best value is arguably “Harmoni”, including one night’s accommodation (single or double), a teppanyaki dinner, breakfast, activities, spa entry and tea and fruit buffets.  A yukata, slippers and swimming costume are covered in the price, so Yasuragi really aren’t joking when they tell you to pack light!  There is also the newly renovated Ryokan Hanare, a luxury suite housing up to eight people.  Decadently designed, it includes a private entrance, naki-san (host) and sauna (star spotting, anyone?).

We arrive on a Friday afternoon, on the back of a few frantic weeks at work.  Receptionist Michiko greets us and instructs us to change into the infamous yukata, in preparation for dinner and a treatment.  Admittedly, we aren’t at our most lucid, but we take a few wrong turns before we find our sleeping quarters.  It’s worth the maze however; a low queensize bed in true Japanese style, with a view over the archipelago.  The room is harmonious, as its name suggests – it’s light, white and serene, including a modest flat screen and luscious-smelling shower gels in the ensuite.  Unfortunately we don’t have time to languish as our treatment – a shiatsu massage – takes place within the hour.

Excited, we find our way to the Kyarabi Lounge where guests await their therapists.  Fresh fruit, tea, coffee and water are on offer.  Our therapists call our names and we head to a tatami-matted treatment room.  As Ute, my masseuse, explains the traditional origins of shiatsu, she bathes my feet with a hot towel.  She then works on my tired muscles, meditating simultaneously which causes me to suppress a little giggle.  However, whatever works for Ute works for my body, as she soon has me like putty in her hands.  I must admit that this is one of my ‘Zzz’ incidents – apparently I snore rather audibly.  One feature I do remember, however, is Ute’s incorporation of stretching, in which she seems to use her entire bodyweight to relax my limbs.

Our massage is followed by dinner in the Teppanyaki Restaurant.  To date, it’s one of two Stockholm establishments which specialise in this traditional Japanese style.  Patrik, our chef, cooks our menu choices made-to-order on the grill before us.  A startling treat is the risotto (yes, you read correctly) and my fellow diner’s pork and pomegranate appetiser.  Maria, our waitress, keeps the sake and beer flowing (wine comes at an additional cost). The sea bass is succulent and flavoursome, accented beautifully by the peanut and sesame sauces provided.  Although Teppanyaki doesn’t currently have native Japanese chefs, Patrik says that they teach each other and take advantage of study trips.

The luxurious Ryokan Hanare suite

We make it our mission to try out Yasuragi’s Japanese baths before bed.  With classic Swedish enthusiasm, most guests have taken up residence in the outdoor pools.  Opting for more solitude, we drop our yukatas in the bathing hut indoors and slip into the hot spring-inspired bubble pool.  The baths are truly serene – à la Japanese guesthouse with a Scandinavian twist.  The main indoor pool is paved with flat, shale-like stones, and I somewhat cheesily imagine I’m Sayuri from “Memoirs of a Geisha” as I dive in.  It’s a tranquil continuation of our evening of pampering.

I manage to convince my tired man to have a beer in the Sake Bar, which would actually be a sophisticated, yet laidback start to a night out (although too far away for most city dwellers).  Cocktails hover around SEK 80-90 – not bad for Stockholm prices.  We kick back with a tasty Kirin beer (expensive, but worth it, according to my Swede) and sink into the lounge.  The terrace outside is dark, but other guests enjoy their drinks, blankets on hand should the night grow too nippy.

The following morning, our auras of calm are still intact.  We feel a tinge of stress however as breakfast closes at 10am; it feels like we’re going against Yasuragi policy by setting our alarm.  But all we have to do is throw on our yukatas and head to the Tokyo Restaurant buffet.  It’s a delightful fusion of Scandi-Jappo flavours, right down to the two choices of crockery.  I can’t resist the sushi and end up mixing it with bacon and eggs, fresh fruit and pastries.  The jugs of raspberry smoothie are plentiful and refreshing, complemented by assorted juices, teas and coffee.

I decide to do an activity in order to get the full Yasuragi experience, so first, we explore the highly recommended hotel garden.  Expecting the picturesque, natural expanse of solitude from the promo material, we’re not disappointed – visually, at least.  We follow the winding paths, surrounded by the gorgeous oriental aesthetic of art professor Gunilla Bandolin and Naturorienterad Design.  The only downside is the army of ants roaming the entire path (I’m sure the garden is “still and silent” when you don’t wander through it with an insect-hater).

We find ourselves at the Sake Bar terrace, this time in broad daylight.  The stunning views across Stockholm’s inner archipelago banish any negativity.  We soak up the surroundings, until it’s time for my activity.  I leave my contented viking in the sunshine and head to ‘Journey of Sound’.

Our instructor, Susan, begins by having us meditate on a mat.  She then ‘awakens’ us with a soft gong.  Kneeling in the centre of the group, she explains the various metal bowls positioned around her.

They are Tibetan singing bowls, which, when gonged, apparently take us on an aural journey.  We’re told to lie back, relax and listen to Susan’s voice as she reads a story, comforting our minds with sound.  This is my second ‘Zzz’ moment, but I feel slightly better as Susan reassures us that snoring is not uncommon.

Yasuragi’s baths fuse east and west

Drifting in and out of consciousness doesn’t seem to be a bad thing, however, because I feel rejuvenated and alert when Susan brings us back to the present.  We then get the chance to “feel” the sound, as Susan gongs the bowl in our hands.  When my turn comes, I ask if she gets many skeptics, and how they react.  Laughing, Susan admits that it happens often, but once participants feel the vibrations of the bowl, they appreciate the experience.

Once my journey of sound is over, it’s time to check out and head home.  Admittedly, guests who indulge for at least two nights would get more from their stay.  But for those willing to try a spa with a twist, or in search of the ultimate gift, this could be it.

Finding inner peace is a pretty big ask.  But being more than just an escape is what makes Yasuragi Hasseludden unique.  Rather than giving guests a miraculous quick fix, the spa reminds us that we already have the ability to relax every now and then.  Whether or it takes a yukata, Tibetan singing bowls, hot springs or teppanyaki to get there, Yasuragi has created a first class getaway.

For more information see the Yasuragi website, or for reservations email privat@yasuragi.se.

The chic, elegant lobby of the Hotel Jules

If you have ever spent time waiting outside a Metro station, looking at your watch, you’ll know that the French have a grasp of being on time that is somewhat tenuous. Unless, of course, we consider the precisely scheduled cinq à sept; the two hour slot when one plans a rendez-vous with one’s lover. Having spent a couple of years living in Paris, I always wondered just where these discreet meetings took place. When it comes to all-out luxury and overblown glamour, the French capital has a plethora of glitzy addresses, from the Crillon and the Hotel Georges V to the Plaza Athenée and the Ritz. Steeped in history, bien sur they offer old-fashioned service and style in decadent surroundings, but discreet and understated are two words that one certainly couldn’t use in reference to these Parisian palaces. Blinged-out cocktail bars, a handful of Hollywood stars and a sheikh or two on business; these are places that one goes to see and be seen.

Hotel Jules is a hidden gem that combines chic, modern design and eclectic vintage style – the ideal spot to choose for a discreet meeting. However, the elegant, tasteful deco of the hotel would also provide a haven of calm for ladies looking to kick off their heels and relax after a hectic day of boutique-hopping.

Location is a key selling point of the hotel; situated in the 9th arrondissement, it’s a ten-minute walk from the heart of Parisian department store territory, yet the quartier is refreshingly tourist-free. The hotel is a hop, skip and jump from bohemiam SoPi; the area which those in the know consider the next fashionable hotspot; ‘the new Marais’. There’s a distinctly villagey feel to the neighbourhood and for an ‘authentic’ Parisian experience, the nearby pedestrianised rue Cadet has a daily market offering fresh produce, accompanied by the irrestible and ubiquitous scent of the boulangerie.

Grace Leo, the lady behind the development of the Hotel Jules says: “This area is becoming a real desirable area for Parisians to live in again after several years of being dormant – the 9th is coming out of hibernation rapidly.” And rightly so – old and new elements of the capital meet in the arrondissement: from the charming antique arcades surrounding the Grands Boulevards, to the hip restaurants and boutiques of the rue des Martyrs, the hotel is ideally sitauted for visitors looking for something a little different in Paris.

The interior of the Hotel Jules is a mélange of funky modern furnishings and stylish vintage design. From the large camembert-shaped lamps in the lobby to the custom-built bar (modelled on 1950s travelling trunks), there’s an attention to detail throughout the hotel. With just 94 rooms and six junior suites, staying at the Hotel Jules is an intimate and personal experience. Rooms and suites are individually designed, boasting simple, yet elegant furnishings with quirky, distinctive touches such as 1970′s bedside lamps, wardrobes from the 1960′s or 1950′s-style desks.

Our light, airy junior suite overlooked the central courtyard and whilst the room wasn’t huge, it had everything that one might need for a chic, comfortable stay in Paris. Furnished in warm, muted tones, the living and sleeping areas could be divided by the heavy, ochre-toned velvet curtains, giving a sexy, boudoir feel to the suite. Design details such as the white oversized standing lamp, zebra print rug, antique dressing table and fun Dali-esque lips sculpture added personality and boho style to the space.

One of the sexy, boudoir-esque suites

Whether one is staying in a hotel for business or for pleasure, it’s the little touches that make a real difference; here a vase of red roses on the coffee table, a miniature box of chocolates and “Jules’ Addresses” (a map and guide to unique boutiques and restaurants in the area) really set Hotel Jules apart, and made us feel at home. The black-and-white tiled bathroom offered double sinks, a luxuriously deep bath, walk-in shower and enough mirrors to satisfy even the most narcissistic of guests. If you wanted to spend your whole stay in the suite, it would be entirely understandable!

However, that would be a shame; Hotel Jules’ cocktail bar is absolutely adorable and the in-house barman makes one mean mojito. There’s a miniature terrace too, should you wish to sip your cocktail and enjoy a few rays of early evening sunshine. Service was impeccable and attentive without being overfamiliar. If you’ve spent any time in Paris, you’ll be aware that customer service is often a concept which the French have yet to master…

Breakfast at the Hotel Jules is a fairly simple affair, however guests can choose to have their petit déjeuner served in their room, or in the hotel’s bar (perfect for morning meetings). The flexibility is ideal and designed to cater for business travellers and guests that decide to enjoy their rooms just that little bit longer…

The tagline of the Hotel Jules? “Be cool. Drop the attitude.” We couldn’t agree more.

For reservations and more information, see the Hotel Jules website.

Until August 31st, for guests booking a minimum stay of two nights in a superior room, a free cruise on the Seine for two is included.

Performers at the Malta Arts Festival

The Malta Arts Festival 2010 opens in the capital city of Valletta on the 1st of July. This three-week event (1st- 23rd July) highlights Maltese identity and promotes intercultural dialogue and the development of the art scene in this pint-size country. Various theatres, palaces, and open spaces throughout the city, including the Argotti Gardens and the courtyard of the President’s Palace, play host to a full line-up of events as diverse as the unique cultural history of the islands themselves.

As in years past, the 2010 programme sees more than 250 Maltese and international artists participate in events that sweep across the artistic spectrum, from music and dance to theatre and the visual arts. The festival opens with a performance by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of world-renowned guest conductor Wayne Marshall. Known for his interpretations of twentieth-century American composers, he will lead a programme of music by George Gershwin and Leonard Bernstein, including Gershwin’s Piano Concerto in F and popular symphonic dances from Bernstein’s West Side Story.

Musical events continue throughout the course of the festival, with a particularly noteworthy component of the programme the two concerts which celebrate the bicentennials of both Schumann and Chopin. Also scheduled are two showings of the Stravinsky Project, with the first held in collaboration with Italy’s Ars Ludi Percussion Ensemble and the second featuring Stravinsky’s famous Histore du Soldat. The European Union Baroque Orchestra, marking its first visit to Malta, will give two concerts, entitled Maladies and Melodies, towards the end of the festival.

Dance events include productions by two different French troupes. La Compagnie du Solitaire will dance their iconic piece, Sans, which is preformed in silence on an empty stage. La Companie Julien Lestel will put on a neoclassical ballet based on D.H Lawrence’s, Lady Chatterley’s Lover, which features eight principal dancers from the Paris Opera and the Marseille National Ballet. It’s one of the most anticipated facets of this year’s programme, with the calibre of the dancers on stage testament to the festival’s burgeoning status internationally.

Proponents of new theatre will also have the chance to discover innovative work in an age-old setting. The play Ospizio has been commissioned and written specifically for the Malta Arts Festival and will receive its debut at Malta’s Theatre Anon in the Ospizio in Floriana. Located just outside of Valletta, this weathered building has a tumultuous past and was used over the centuries as an orphanage and as a hospice for the sick and decrepit. The production weaves the fascinating and oftentimes troubling history of this dilapidated site into its structure, with the audience called on to participate in the play’s development as they simultaneously uncover the Ospizio’s secrets. There will be six performances in total, but with interest high the event is likely to sell out.

For a more traditional theatre experience, London’s Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre Company will close the festival with A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Appropriately given the play’s title – and Malta’s reliably clement weather – the production will be staged outside amongst the elements, in the balmy evening air of the fragrant Argotti Gardens.

Two unique visual-arts events stand out in this year’s programme.The first, “SPACESspazji”, will take place along Srait Street (Strada Stretta) in Valletta, a somewhat neglected neighbourhood in need of revitalisation. This exhibition features five Maltese artists who will each personalise their own empty space along the street. To be unveiled on 2 July and running for the duration of the festival, “SPACESspazji” was conceptualised to reinvigorate this area under the context of the visual arts and to show in an immediate sense the focus the festival can bring to the local community.

Also eagerly anticipated is the Malta Arts Festival’s partnership with The Hulda Festival. Part of Istanbul’s European Capital of Culture celebrations, the Hulda Festival is dedicated to Hulda, the 100-year-old sail boat constructed by Turkish-Swedish artist Illhan Koman . The vessel has sailed through Europe since March 2009 and stops at Malta’s Grand Harbour Marina in Birgu from 3-13 July. While moored, festival goers can board the boat, once the residence and workshop of the artist, and view its travelling art exhibition.

The pristine grounds of the Hotel Phoenicia

Various festival performances are free, whilst the remaining events are moderately priced at €15. Tickets are available at www.maltaticket.com, at Agenda Bookshops, Exotique outlets, Vodafone outlets, Bookends, and Newskiosk. Should there be any left, you could also enquire after tickets at the venue itself an hour before a performance is scheduled to begin. Additional information and a complete programme of events are found on festival’s website or its Twitter page.

For a convenient and art-inspired stay in Malta, consider the Hotel Phoenicia, one of the festival’s sponsors. This luxury 5-star, 1930s Art Deco-styled hotel is located in the heart of Valletta on 7.5 acres of gardens and within walking distance to many of the island’s main tourist attractions, including the venues for several Malta Arts Festival events. The hotel itself also houses many examples of important Maltese artists. With elegantly decorated rooms, a pool, a spa, and five restaurants, the Phoenicia is the perfect choice for a relaxing and chic stay in Malta.

See Barcelona's sights in style from the hotel's terrace

I had a good feeling about Gran Hotel La Florida from the moment I flagged a taxi at Barcelona Airport. After I handed the driver a card with the hotel’s address he actually raised it to his lips and kissed it. And while my Spanish definitely has room for improvement, I was able to pick out his ultra-fast ramblings of “el mejor [best] hotel de Barcelona”, “un mirador [viewpoint]” and “fanastico” along the way.

As we made the final approach to the hotel after an approximately-20-minute journey, I couldn’t think of a reason to dispute any of his opinions. Sitting majestically at one of the highest points of Barcelona (500 metres above it, to be precise), the sun-bathed Mediterranean exterior exudes such a justifiably self-assured grandeur that it almost seems to suggest that it owns the city beneath it.

The hotel’s fascinating history explains much. An original creation of Noucentista architect Ramón Raventós, his brief was to create an emblematic building that would project the prestige of Barcelona, in the most outstanding location of the city. Some years after its opening in 1925, the exterior of the building was declared to be of historical interest, and ordered to be kept intact – the imposing façade we see today is the original, still standing exactly as Raventós intended.

In 1939, the hotel was used as a military hospital during the Spanish Civil War. After a first restoration in the 40s, the Hotel La Florida subsequently became the location of choice of the Catalan bourgeoisie. It subsequently welcomed well-known figures including Ernest Hemingway, James Stewart, Rock Hudson, Princess Fabiola and the Prince of Belgium and in 2001 the hotel had a thorough restoration which introduced the Zen Zone Spa. Today the hotel has 70 rooms, including exclusive designer suites with Jacuzzis, private gardens and terraces.

This sense of history can be felt immediately on entering the hotel through the exquisite décor which combines the traditional and the new – the Noucentista and the avant-garde – at every turn. Photos of the hotel from the 1920s and 1930s are juxtaposed with bold and dazzling contemporary art from the likes of award-winning designer duo Dale and Patricia Keller and British artists Ben Jakober and Yannick Vu. It was Jakober and Vu’s dazzling 27-metre-high fibre-optic work entitled Homage to Gaudi which was the first artwork to greet me as I entered the hotel, just before I was rapidly intercepted by incredibly warm and welcoming hotel staff who presented with a glass of Cava.

As I was shown to my room, the window beckoned immediately – my balcony presented a breathtaking view of Barcelona, the surrounding area and the Mediterranean sea. This would be just the first of many spectacular views I’d have from every angle at different sites in and around the hotel.

Elsewhere in my generously sized and impeccably decorated room was a large wall-mounted plasma TV with full access to international TV channels, internet, music and games. The hotel’s bathroom was generously stocked with L’Occitane en Provence miniatures, alongside luxury robes, towels and slippers (although my slippers were often forsaken so I could take advantage of the heated floor…).

Another room with a view. (And a private Jacuzzi.)

It would be easy to while away hours in the hotel’s luxurious rooms but for relaxation elsewhere it’s only a short amble to the hotel spa, which offers 500m² of luxury facilities including a Jacuzzi, steam room, sauna, more exotic showers, gym, hydromassage baths, ice fountain, relaxation zone and the hotel’s renowned 37m heated interior/exterior pool made from stainless steel and surrounded by specially designed interactive visuals projected along the walls.

The outdoor infinity edge pool allowed me to swim (or merely float) while taking in the ultimate view of Barcelona. Different from that of my room (more Easterly-orientated) this was the Holy Grail – the total panorama. It was unsurprising therefore to find loungers and bar/restaurant tables here, staggered over various tiered terraces. On sultry summer evenings there would be little reason to leave this patch at all…

If you do want to take sanctuary on the inside, the salon is there for all your beauty and relaxation needs, offering an extensive range of facial and body treatments, including massages, honey body scrubs, reflexology, Dead Sea mud baths, Thai four-handed massages, volcanic stone therapy, Swiss chocolate treatments and more.

If, between all of these potential activities, you find the time to eat, then the hotel’s own L’Orangerie restaurant offers a wide range of Mediterranean dishes featuring fresh, seasonal products on a regularly refreshed menu. Both its indoor and outdoor tables allow you to eat while taking in the magnificent view of the city.

You could genuinely forget to leave the hotel and visit Barcelona. The hotel does, however, make your trip to the centre as easy as possible by offering a free shuttle bus which runs several times a day. If you can’t get onto the bus (there are only six places per ride, which must be booked ahead), all is not lost as you can take the local bus, funicular and metro to get the to Placa de Catalunya in about 40 minutes. The journey is even shorter to northern attractions such as the Parc Guell.

If you don’t want to go all the way into town or fancy a change, there is at least one day’s worth of entertainment to be had from the Tibidabo theme park which is just around the corner, although not close enough to disturb you while you’re at the hotel. However, since it would be a shame to not visit Barcelona proper at least once try to summon the resolve to leave your five-star surroundings at least for a short while. We’ve included some local tips below to see you on your way…

For reservations and information, see the Gran Hotel La Florida website.

Top Barcelona tips:

Café/Bar: La Teteria Clandestina – a supremely chilled bohemian lounge where one can smoke both shisha and cigarettes surrounded both by local artists and local art. Viladecols 2 Bis

Restaurant: Qué bec? – a popular tapas restaurant that continues to draw a loyal local clientele rather than the tourists who monopolise Las Ramblas. The lunchtime menu is excellent value. Calle Dagueria 12

Objects of lust: Heritage –  surprisingly affordable vintage and antique clothing and accessories in a to-die-for décor. Calle des Banys nous 14

The pirate dancefloor designed by the clever CIA collective

What do you get if you cross the CIA with Pirates and the Mothership?  No, it’s not the start to an awful joke, it’s Clerkenwell’s first pop up bar come art installation, Pop Up Pirates.

I was extremely curious as to see what the Central Intelligence Agency and a bunch of Pirates would need with a bar in Clerkenwell and was eagerly anticipating the opening night fully expecting eye patches, wooden legs and rum surrounded by men in shades and earpieces.  You can imagine my disappointment to discover that the CIA actually stands for the Central Illustration Agency and the Pirates are their collective of bad boy/girl artist directors and artists.  However, not to be fully disheartened, at least there was rum… lots of rum.

Deciding to step out of my little fantasy and take the project a little more seriously I did a little research.  The pop up bar, running until the end of August, is a collaboration between the CIA, Pirates and The Mothership Group, the clever chaps behind the super cool Queen of Hoxton and The Book Club. Using the printing heritage of Clerkenwell and the history of the building as an old factory specialising in silver lithography, the artistic geniuses have developed the concept of “communication and conversation”…and then run with it. And boy have they run with it!

Walking in, at first glance, the venue could be mistaken for a playground…but with booze.  Random words and letters jump out at you in all different shapes, sizes and forms, from every possible angle of the three storey building.  Giant Perspex letters suspend from the ceiling, graffiti style writing covers the walls, placards of signs adorn any available space, drawings smoother the tables and P-shaped disco balls send shards of light across the space.  B & Q clearly made a killing on paint last week.

The mock printing presses suspended from the ceiling filled with reams of paper lead you across the downstairs bar and up the stairs to even more alphabetic delights.  The giant word search on the wall can provide hours of fun and moments of embarrassing giggles when you realise some of the naughty words those Pirates have snuck in.  The vibe is a bit quieter upstairs with big, battered leather sofas, dimly lit lamps and slightly more neutral graffiti (neutral graffiti, not something I ever imagined myself saying).  Quite a contrast to the downstairs bar which is a skittle explosion of colour, with little tables in corners, bar stools and big booths to hide away in.

So… after wandering round with my jaw open for a while, I decided to put my mouth to good use and start drinking.  I arrived cheque book in hand, wondering how mad my Dad would be if I re-mortgaged his house, but the prices were actually really reasonable.  Perusing through the cocktail menu I decided on a couple of champagne cocktails; for review purposes of course.  The bartender threw a few bottles, shook a few things and ta-da!  In fact all the staff were really professional and friendly. One in particular was quite hot; I tried winking but I think he thought I had something in my eye, so I quickly scarpered to the dance floor.  Where the embarrassment continued: high heels, champagne and unfortunately inherited bad dance moves saw that idea failing pretty quickly, so off to grab some food.

The food is fairly basic with simple bar snacks and burger type dishes but absolutely delicious all the same.  A word of warning: if you’re planning on eating here don’t wear a tight dress the portions are massive!

Eye-popping colours and graphic graffiti at Pop Up Pirates

After completely obviously listening to two other girls’ conversation I decided the next realm of discovery was to be found in the toilets.  Tottering downstairs to the glitter-filled waiting area I soon located the toilets and then I realised what the girls meant.  Every naughty toilet wall scribbling school girl’s dream, I must actually admit at this point I was a smoking behind the bike shed girl so was less excited than the aspiring graffiti artists I had suddenly walked in on.

The entire toilet from floor to ceiling was covered in blackboards with pots of chalk everywhere, free for everyone to scribble away.  With a pang of nostalgia I found a toilet door and wrote ‘NH 4 CB 4 EVA’ (I hear he hasn’t actually got any taller since school, so am in hindsight rather grateful he kissed my best friend) and tottered off back upstairs.

After several more glasses of champagne I decided it was probably best I headed off in case I tried to dance again.  I was really impressed with the bar and I’ve been to a few bars in my time so I’m not easily impressed.  It’s unique and fun and appeals to all different types of people so isn’t too ‘sceney’.  It’s perfect for boring first dates as there’s loads of other things to look at, when you’re best friend is crying as her unsuitable boyfriend has dumped her again, you can make sympathetic noises and do the word search on the wall behind her, or when you’re boyfriend is once again trying to explain the offside rule to you on ‘date night’ you can shove a massive burger in his mouth and just look at his pretty face.  There’s also a fantastic line up of DJs and events over the next couple of months so perfect for big nights out.  So in the famous words of George Harrison “I want to be a pirate, a pirate’s life for me, all my friends are pirates, in Clerkenwell I will be.”  I may have adapted the last line.

Check out the Pop Up Pirates blog, or you can follow the hearty crew on Twitter @POP_UP_PIRATES.

The courtyard of the Brandenburger Hof

As word associations go it’s not necessarily a positive one. Say ‘Hof’ and ‘Berlin’ to someone who has yet to visit Germany and you may well catapult their minds back to that questionable night when David Hasslehoff, bouffant and brilliant in a leather jacket interwoven with flashing fairy lights, sang ‘I’ve Been Looking for Freedom’ from atop the Berlin Wall. Perhaps an image that we’d all be better off forgetting but luckily for Berliners, at least, ‘Hof’ stands for something different. Translated as ‘courtyard’ most apartment blocks throughout the city have their own Hof; an atrium and refuge for residents away from the bustle and grind of this non-stop metropolis.

So, for Germans in the know, a stay at the five-star Brandenburger Hof hotel immediately suggests a sanctuary and safe haven – something that even the most energetic of tourists needs given the relentless pace of Berlin. Located in Charlottenburg, the building was an apartment block before being converted into a hotel but its Hof remains, shaded, serene and stylish, and a welcome escape from all that lies by the hotel’s door. The Ku’damm, West Berlin’s main shopping avenue (and home to famed department store KaDeWe), is a five-minute walk away; the imposing shell of the bombed Gedächtniskirche stands adjacent; and Knut the polar bear still draws in crowds at Berlin Zoo, also nearby. And for those who usually visit East Berlin, the atmosphere too is different. While the other side of the city may revel in its dilapidated grandeur, the west is sophisticated and serious, with chic cocktail bars and smart restaurants a local speciality.

It’s an impression that’s consolidated by the hotel itself. Guests walk a red carpet to enter its polished lobby and are then led along its natural-hued corridors to one of just 72 rooms. Ours looked directly over the courtyard and, like all the others, had the high ceilings typical of Berlin apartments, solid oak fittings, unique artwork and, most importantly, a supremely comfortable bed that we would depart from only reluctantly each morning. Our impression was of a hotel that considered durability and comfort before flirting with fads and gimmicks, so while it doesn’t seek to compete with the fanciful designs of flash-in-the-pan competitors the Brandenburg Hof has built a reputation as a reliable option for anyone seeking an assured stay in the city.

And it shows in the clientele. We were joined at breakfast by the well-heeled wealthy and world-weary politicians. Angela Merkel has apparently held meetings here; German celebrities dine in the property at night. The Michelin-starred Die Quadriga restaurant is housed within the hotel, with its lauded Finnish chef Sauli Kemppainen the current rising star of Berlin’s culinary scene.

Sadly we couldn’t afford his fittingly sky-high prices but we did indulge in the hotel’s breakfast, which was a gourmet experience in itself. Tiered servings of cold meats, creamy cheeses and fresh sushi were laid out, afternoon tea-style, alongside crusty breads, miniature pancakes and fruit-covered muesli. It was exceptionally fresh and tasty, and sustenance enough to see tourists through even the most demanding sightseeing itinerary. A minor gripe, however, would be that after gorging ourselves to a state of disgusting immobility we found service to be less intuitive than expected. Being left without napkins or spoons for your tea, or having to retrieve your abandoned coffee pot and water from a nearby counter and then pouring your own drinks isn’t a problem by any means but perhaps something you wouldn’t expect when staying in a five-star hotel.

One of the hotel's spacious junior suites

But in any case the exercise is good and for people who are more committed to keeping fit while on holiday the hotel also provides use of a nearby gym with swimming pool and sauna. It’s jogging distance from the property but we hadn’t considered going until we were offered complimentary use of the hotel’s limo to get there. It would have been churlish to refuse, and by all accounts the gym looked wonderful.

Better exercise, however, is an evening spent exploring Berlin’s fabled nightlife. Thoughtfully the hotel produces a seasonal guidebook outlining what’s new in the city and there’s a capable concierge on hand to deal with any other enquiries. Chatting to the affable manager on the evening of our arrival we mentioned that we had yet to make plans for the evening. Moments later he had magicked our names onto the guestlist for that night’s most exclusive party – the opening of this season’s most eagerly anticipated new gallery. An impressive trick and so it was that a few hours after our arrival in Berlin we were walking down or second red carpet, past a band of press photographers and paparazzi, and into a throng of eminent Berlin artists and to-us-anonymous German celebrities. We recognised the waitresses laden with free champagne immediately, however. Quite a feat when a hotel can ensure you stay in style even after you’ve left their property, but just like David, Brandenburger Hof performed with aplomb.

Rooms at the Brandenburger Hof hotel can be booked through luxury hotels specialists Travel Intelligence.

Pastries from the pantry, tea in the salon...

Opened in 2003, Tea Time has established itself as Copenhagen’s haven for ladies who lunch and girls who want to catch up and have a good giggle. Situated in the heart of the bustling and multicultural Norrebro district, it’s a dreamy oasis of tranquillity and offers a menu of delightful treats  – perfect for a break after a busy afternoon of shopping.

The tea parlour’s candy-coloured interior is awash with soft pinks and cool pastels, lace-covered tables, velvet armchairs and drapes of ribbon – this is where Alice – she of Wonderland – would go if she wanted a cup of tea.

Romantic and relaxed, the atmosphere harks back to Victorian times, when any muffle of indiscreet parlance could be concealed by the clank and clatter of exquisite porcelain crockery. But the brews on offer are decidedly more modern.

As well as steaming mugs of Earl Grey, girls on the go can now gossip over a more unconventional orange and lemongrass infusion or can enjoy a fresh pink lemonade over the summer months. For something more substantial you can also order the obligatory cucumber sandwiches or freshly baked homemade scones with clotted cream. More tempting still are the wide selection of decadent desserts, including a heavenly lime cheesecake, petit fours, brownies and an After Eight-flavoured cake.

For an extra splurge, don’t miss their irresistible vanilla-butter cupcakes, but if that all sounds like just a little too much in one go it’s possible to get takeaway treats or have the proprietors arrange a private tea party for you and your friends on your next visit. Perfect for any aspiring princess and her ladies in waiting.

For more information, see the Tea Time website.